I would spray the seals with soapy water and check them first so I didn't split the cases for nothing.
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I would spray the seals with soapy water and check them first so I didn't split the cases for nothing.
Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk
Most proper thing I can think of is if you can get a puller in there like a 3 jaw puller.
With the old brigs engines, you'd just hit the flywheel with a to shock it and it would let go. not exactly a good idea for a high performance engines though. Maybe heating up the fly wheel with a torch would work? Can't get it too hot though (stator, wiring, crank seal etc don't want to be too hot).
If you buy a replacement flywheel, weld something to the flywheel and use a puller that can hook onto what you welded onto it. Just careful of heat once again.
Remember to always lube the puller threads, and when possible don't use the flywheel threads to do the actual pulling if there's a second set of threads in the puller (a center bolt).
Just what I could come up with off the top of my head.
I would drill 2 holes into the face plate (where the big rivets are), in a perfectly straight line across the crankshaft, with the crankshaft centered in between the holes, tap the holes, and then use a steering wheel puller to remove the flywheel. Once removed, toss that flywheel in the scrap bin & get a new one.
Here's a Harbor Freight version that will work just fine. https://www.harborfreight.com/bolt-t...xoC990QAvD_BwE
Last edited by Red Rider; 02-04-2020 at 03:25 PM.
Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14
Don't forget about the stator under the flywheel, don't want to drill into a coil.
Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14
I have used a couple pry bars and a before.Take the nut off remove washer.thread nut on flush.Put a pry bar in enough to get a bite on the inside edge of flywheel put some pressure on the pry bars hit the end of the crank good and square. Brass is best.Not ideal way but worked for me.
Last edited by atc300r; 02-05-2020 at 11:29 AM.
250r rules
Ended up finally getting her off, I used a crankcase splitter tool I forgot I had. I grinded two bolt heads half way off and them tapped them into the two flywheel holes and then tightened the tool on the end crank and it popped off. Now back to pressure testing and seeing where my problem is
Did the pressure test and found the left crank seal is leaking, it holds pressure for some time, but drops after awhile. Also, I took the right case off and pumped some air into the boot to find that the right side has bubbles coming out of the bottom of the collar, when I put the collar in the other way...it doesn't leak at all. The collar is smooth on the inside. Crankshaft splines are in nice shape. Any thoughts on this?
That collar will leak air between the right end of the crank shaft and the collar ID if the clutch basket isn't on the crank and tightened down properly
I'm not sure why it doesn't leak when it's on the other way.
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