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Thread: Gas in transmission in 250R ATC

  1. #31
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    The Open Road
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    4,729
    I would spray the seals with soapy water and check them first so I didn't split the cases for nothing.



    Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Weeki Wachee
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    77
    Quote Originally Posted by Red Rider View Post
    It could also be leaking forward of the crankcase into the counter-balancer cavity via the centercase gasket.

    I had the same issue after replacing my crankshaft a few years ago.
    Yes Im looking at a picture of the center gasket now, that can also be a possibility! Thanks for pointing that out, I actually forgot about that area for the counter balancer.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Weeki Wachee
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    77
    Quote Originally Posted by ironchop View Post
    I would spray the seals with soapy water and check them first so I didn't split the cases for nothing.



    Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk
    The flywheel threading is striped to where I can't the flywheel remover tool to grab and pop it off, any ideas to get the flywheel off without doing any damage?

  4. #34
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    The Open Road
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    4,729
    Quote Originally Posted by rmcollector View Post
    The flywheel threading is striped to where I can't the flywheel remover tool to grab and pop it off, any ideas to get the flywheel off without doing any damage?
    I wouldn't know. I haven't run into that issue yet and I'd be afraid to suggest the wrong thing and it get damaged more.

    Hopeful someone else with that same experience can chime in



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  5. #35
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    4,114
    Most proper thing I can think of is if you can get a puller in there like a 3 jaw puller.

    With the old brigs engines, you'd just hit the flywheel with a to shock it and it would let go. not exactly a good idea for a high performance engines though. Maybe heating up the fly wheel with a torch would work? Can't get it too hot though (stator, wiring, crank seal etc don't want to be too hot).

    If you buy a replacement flywheel, weld something to the flywheel and use a puller that can hook onto what you welded onto it. Just careful of heat once again.

    Remember to always lube the puller threads, and when possible don't use the flywheel threads to do the actual pulling if there's a second set of threads in the puller (a center bolt).

    Just what I could come up with off the top of my head.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Slidell, LA
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    4,737
    Quote Originally Posted by rmcollector View Post
    The flywheel threading is striped to where I can't the flywheel remover tool to grab and pop it off, any ideas to get the flywheel off without doing any damage?
    How stripped? Got a pic? You’re gonna ruin the flywheel with a jaw puller
    Feedback for yaegerb: Click Here

    Need something blasted or polished or both? Send me a PM

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Weeki Wachee
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    77
    Quote Originally Posted by yaegerb View Post
    How stripped? Got a pic? You’re gonna ruin the flywheel with a jaw puller
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    It is stripped really bad, the flywheel puller will not screw in any. I cleaned it out but that didn't help. I am hesitant to use a 3 jaw. Not sure what to do next, I don't want to damage anything.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Slidell, LA
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    4,737
    Quote Originally Posted by rmcollector View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    It is stripped really bad, the flywheel puller will not screw in any. I cleaned it out but that didn't help. I am hesitant to use a 3 jaw. Not sure what to do next, I don't want to damage anything.
    Do you have a wire or stick welder?
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  9. #39
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV.
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    2,446
    Quote Originally Posted by rmcollector View Post
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    It is stripped really bad, the flywheel puller will not screw in any. I cleaned it out but that didn't help. I am hesitant to use a 3 jaw. Not sure what to do next, I don't want to damage anything.
    I would drill 2 holes into the face plate (where the big rivets are), in a perfectly straight line across the crankshaft, with the crankshaft centered in between the holes, tap the holes, and then use a steering wheel puller to remove the flywheel. Once removed, toss that flywheel in the scrap bin & get a new one.

    Here's a Harbor Freight version that will work just fine. https://www.harborfreight.com/bolt-t...xoC990QAvD_BwE
    Last edited by Red Rider; 02-04-2020 at 03:25 PM.
    Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
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    4,114
    Don't forget about the stator under the flywheel, don't want to drill into a coil.

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV.
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    2,446
    Quote Originally Posted by ps2fixer View Post
    Don't forget about the stator under the flywheel, don't want to drill into a coil.
    Good point. Don't drill too deep, and hit the coil. And make sure the bike isn't running, just in case you do drill too deep. That way you wont get shocked.
    Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Carthage NY 250r rules
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    2,345
    I have used a couple pry bars and a before.Take the nut off remove washer.thread nut on flush.Put a pry bar in enough to get a bite on the inside edge of flywheel put some pressure on the pry bars hit the end of the crank good and square. Brass is best.Not ideal way but worked for me.
    Last edited by atc300r; 02-05-2020 at 11:29 AM.
    250r rules

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Weeki Wachee
    --
    77
    Ended up finally getting her off, I used a crankcase splitter tool I forgot I had. I grinded two bolt heads half way off and them tapped them into the two flywheel holes and then tightened the tool on the end crank and it popped off. Now back to pressure testing and seeing where my problem is

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Weeki Wachee
    --
    77
    Did the pressure test and found the left crank seal is leaking, it holds pressure for some time, but drops after awhile. Also, I took the right case off and pumped some air into the boot to find that the right side has bubbles coming out of the bottom of the collar, when I put the collar in the other way...it doesn't leak at all. The collar is smooth on the inside. Crankshaft splines are in nice shape.Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #45
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    The Open Road
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    4,729
    That collar will leak air between the right end of the crank shaft and the collar ID if the clutch basket isn't on the crank and tightened down properly

    I'm not sure why it doesn't leak when it's on the other way.
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