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Thread: 350x front end not right

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Long Island
    --
    85

    Angry 350x front end not right

    Hello all- New to the forum as I just bought my an 86 350x after 30 years of not riding 3 wheelers. I grew up on them and my kids are getting into dirt bikes and quads so I figured I'd pick up a 3 wheeler so we now have 2, 3 and 4 wheeled machines. Anyway, when I was test riding it, it pulled slightly right. It felt like the front end but I know rear tire pressure can cause it so I went ahead and bought it anyway. Checked the tire pressure, tire diameter and even swapped tire sides. It was still pulling. Pulled the front end apart and found that the left fork tube was slightly bent. Found some straight ones on Ebay and ordered them up. Checked them for straightness by rolling then across my granite kitchen counter tops and they were perfect. Cleaned everything and installed new bushings and seals and was seriously disappointed when it still pulled. The rear seems fine- nice and tight, no apparent wobbles or loose bearings and the axle seems OK. I did notice when putting the tubes back in the triple clamps the second tube didn't quite line up perfect through the top hole and was off about 1/4 of an inch but I was able to wiggle it through without too much trouble. The frame looks straight and I tried putting a level across the triples and they seemed ok. I've read everything I can about front ends pulling to one side and pretty much every post on here but they ass seem to have just dried up without an answer. Any ideas how I can check to see if the neck, frame or maybe the triple clams or steering stem is bent? It's really only a slight pull but I'm kind of a perfectionist and it drives me freakin' nuts! I'd be really grateful for any help and willing to send a six pack of your choice to however helps me figure it out! Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Northeast
    --
    17,438
    It sound like the steering stem COULD be bent, but they are VERY hard to bend and it sounds like your forks had just a small bend... If they were all bent to hell, then I'd expect the stem to be bad as well.

    In order to correctly check the stem, it has to be removed, placed on V-blocks and checked with a dial indicator.

    When a 3 wheeler pulls real hard to one side or another, most times it is the rear tires. Different air pressure or use a fabric tape measure and measure the exact circumference of a tire. People don't realize that when mounting a tire they can stretch it very easily so who knows what the past owner did.

    BEFORE doing anything, flip the left rear to the right, see what it does.

    Of course there are wheel bearings, swingarm bearings etc etc, but it sounds like you have looked that stuff over.

    Only other thing I've seen are frames themselves bend and only a new frame will fix that....
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    --
    2,208
    I second Dirtcrasher's suggestion of a possibly bent steering stem.

    The history of a bent fork and description of the last tube not lining up in the triples seems pretty evident. The triples themselves could be bent.


    I ran into the same problem on a crashed motorcycle I have. After buying straight replacement forks, the last tube didn't line up. I didn't notice the triples being out of line until installing the forks. In my case, the stem was bent and possibly the top clamp. I just bought used replacement upper and lower clamps. Problem solved.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mexico
    --
    9,011
    I'm hearing the exact same symptoms as I've experienced on two dirt bikes. The culprit being bent lower triple tree clamps both times.

    I suggest you remove the clamps and place them on your granite table top and try to rock them. Assuming there are no burrs , nicks or forging flash on the bottoms them they should not rock at all, zero, nada! Try it and let us know.

    Not that this would cause your problem to the extent that you're experiencing, but there is a sequence to tightening your forks to your axle that is critical to plushness and fork seal/bushing wear and handling that should be adhered to any time you remove your front wheel. We can discuss this later if you wish, but first find the main problem.

    Good luck!
    Last edited by El Camexican; 02-03-2020 at 02:00 AM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Manheim, PA
    --
    5,754
    tripples twisted, forks bent, frames bent. its one or all of them after 30 years.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Soutwestern PA
    --
    2,040
    Quote Originally Posted by oldskool83 View Post
    tripples twisted, forks bent, frames bent. its one or all of them after 30 years.
    Yep, and a potential solution may be to over inflate one of the rear tires to compensate for it. Not an elegant solution, and not what you want to hear, but it may work.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Long Island
    --
    85
    Thanks for all the replies folks- I'll pull the steering stem out and check the triples when I get some time. That was my next thought. Another thought I had last night was could it be possible that due to a bent fork tube, the front tire may have worn to one side and is now uneven and is the culprit? Can the front wheel be removed from the hub and switched around or does the tire have to come off the rim?

    And El Camexican- I followed the manual for re-installing the front wheel and axle. Tighten the axle first, then the top nuts of the axle clamp then the bottom nuts. Is that the procedure you're referring to?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Long Island
    --
    85
    Alright- So I did a little more messing around with it. I discovered that the front rim only mounts in one direction so to try that option means taking the front tire off the rim and flipping it. I also noticed that the right side fork tube had slid up in the triples as little bit somehow. I lowered it, torqued it to spec and gave it a ride. Now it's not really pulling to one side but seems more like the bars are slightly to the right for it to go straight. If I let go of the bars it tracks straight but the bars are leaning a bit right. I'm guessing the whole front end is too but its hard to tell because is really only slightly noticeable. The bars don't look bent to me at all so I don't think its that. Another thing is I'm doing all my test riding on pavement. I don't have dirt at my house and I know from past experience that pavement can really exacerbate small issues that when on dirt aren't even be noticeable. Before ripping the front end apart again I think I'll try riding it off road and see how it feels. If I don't really notice anything when riding off road, Ill probably just let it go unless anyone has any other ideas. Thanks again for all the input!
    In the garage
    2007 Yamaha Tri-Z 450
    2017 YZ 250F
    2003 XR100 (son's)
    2005 Raptor 350 (other son's)


    Gone but not forgotten
    86 350X
    16 WR 250R
    03 FZ1
    96 Katana 600
    89 XT350
    84 250R
    84 200X
    79 ATC 110
    74 ATC 90

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Manheim, PA
    --
    5,754
    forks are bent......every atc has bent forks by now. loosen everything up. measure bars from ground up with a tape measure. loosen tripple tree, see whats twisted. pavement riding....wost thing ever.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Long Island
    --
    85
    Quote Originally Posted by oldskool83 View Post
    forks are bent......every atc has bent forks by now. loosen everything up. measure bars from ground up with a tape measure. loosen tripple tree, see whats twisted. pavement riding....wost thing ever.
    Forks are straight. As per my first post I replaced the bent one. I'll loosen everything up and try measuring the bars. Agreed- riding an ATC on pavement sucks. I'm only doing it to test it out. Only time I really ride pavement is when its snow covered. Which we haven't had much of this year on long Island.
    In the garage
    2007 Yamaha Tri-Z 450
    2017 YZ 250F
    2003 XR100 (son's)
    2005 Raptor 350 (other son's)


    Gone but not forgotten
    86 350X
    16 WR 250R
    03 FZ1
    96 Katana 600
    89 XT350
    84 250R
    84 200X
    79 ATC 110
    74 ATC 90

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV.
    --
    2,452
    The paved road you're riding on, is it noticeably crowned?
    Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mexico
    --
    9,011
    Quote Originally Posted by TSpencer View Post
    And El Camexican- I followed the manual for re-installing the front wheel and axle. Tighten the axle first, then the top nuts of the axle clamp then the bottom nuts. Is that the procedure you're referring to?
    If I am seeing the photos of a 350X properly you have an axle that tightens up solid against the left side fork tubes and then pinches vis 2 bolts on the right side?

    If so to the best of my knowledge the proper way to align the forks (others may disagree, like the Honda manual ) is to assemble the tree and stem semi-tight, insert and set the heights of the forks using the top of the triple clamp to measure to the top of the fork caps and then snug the upper clamps leaving the lower ones loose on the fork tubes.

    Now tighten the steering head bearings just to the point that it wont move and then back it off just a bit so that is difficult to rotate the triple tree from lock to lock, but not impossible. This sets the bearings and makes sure there isn’t excessive grease between any surfaces. Now back off the bearings till they are loose and retighten them to the point that there is resistance to rotation, but no points in the radius that lock up or require two hands to rotate the tree. If you feel a step, dull click or sudden looseness at any one position you probably need new bearings and races.

    Within reason it is better to slightly over tighten these bearings than it is to have them loose. A slightly tight bearing acts a bit like a steering damper and loose bearings will get pounded out over time. Don’t be surprised if it takes a few tries to get them set just right.

    Now you can snug up the lower pinch bolts on the clamps. I like to gently snug them all up first before pulling out the torque wrench. Be sure to go back and forth between the two bolts on each clamp because if you tighten just one all the way to full torque and then tighten the second one you'll have added additional force to the first one due to the open slot that allows the clamp to twist when unevenly tightened. If you think you might have done this you can always back them off and retighten until you’re content that they are equally taunt.

    When it comes to clamping forks a little looser is better than a little too tight, especially on inverted forks. Also keep in mind that if you use anti-seize on your bolts your torque readings change, to the point that you’d be better off torqueing them by feel rather than risk using an oversized torque wrench, or one of questionable quality and tearing out the threads, or deforming your tubes.

    So once you’re happy with tightened all four pinch points you’ll put the wheel and brakes on and torque the axle in place. Then with the front wheel still in the air and the pinch bolts on the right side fork loose, stick something in the slot of the fork to make sure it is open enough to allow you to move the right side fork left to right on the front axle.

    Now spin the front wheel and lock the front brake up a few times (as hard as possible) to allow all the components to find their natural positions. Then without disturbing the fork leg remove the wedge and tighten up the pinch bolts going back and forth like you did on the triple clamps, again, don’t over tighten them.

    This is the procedure that will supposedly give you the most plush front end and the least amount of fork wear.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Long Island
    --
    85
    Quote Originally Posted by Red Rider View Post
    The paved road you're riding on, is it noticeably crowned?
    Its got a fair crown but I accounted for that by riding down the crest. Also rode on both sides of the crown and still was off to the right.
    In the garage
    2007 Yamaha Tri-Z 450
    2017 YZ 250F
    2003 XR100 (son's)
    2005 Raptor 350 (other son's)


    Gone but not forgotten
    86 350X
    16 WR 250R
    03 FZ1
    96 Katana 600
    89 XT350
    84 250R
    84 200X
    79 ATC 110
    74 ATC 90

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Northeast
    --
    17,438
    Did you flip your rear tires yet??

    That will rule out the swingarm and associated parts, try that, it's very easy to do...
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Long Island
    --
    85
    Yea- That was the first thing I did. Not sure if that will rule out the swing arm but it will rule out uneven tire pressure/diameter. Gonna try and get out this weekend and hit a nearby sand pit and see what she does off road. I have a feeling its just a slight bend in one of the triples due the holes being slightly off when installing the forks. That's fat metal though. Must take a good whack to bend one of them!
    In the garage
    2007 Yamaha Tri-Z 450
    2017 YZ 250F
    2003 XR100 (son's)
    2005 Raptor 350 (other son's)


    Gone but not forgotten
    86 350X
    16 WR 250R
    03 FZ1
    96 Katana 600
    89 XT350
    84 250R
    84 200X
    79 ATC 110
    74 ATC 90

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