How to tell if a engine is good?

[SteveRoll]

Yes it is simple to build just gotta follow what wire is what for the simple harness. Basically just recreating the ignition / firing circuit only. I tested the third trike 200e and the stator isn’t producing voltage. Has good compression and a slightly better harness. Only one more trike to test, another 200e. Whichever one is best running I’ll be building a frame up trike. The rest I’ll probably part out cause how much space they take up

[ps2fixer]

Yea harnesses aren't that complicated.

My last message was more in the context of making a testing tool that plugs in where the CDI does to test basic issues, basically a multi meter in a box for people that have a hard time with electronics.

[SteveRoll]

Yea harnesses aren't that complicated.

My last message was more in the context of making a testing tool that plugs in where the CDI does to test basic issues, basically a multi meter in a box for people that have a hard time with electronics.

That would be a good idea, basically like an electrical outlet test tool. If it could identify the problem it would be excellent.

[ps2fixer]

Yea, atleast in the context of what the CDI can "see". There's a lot of ways CDI's are wired, so sadly it's not a super universal tool with out a ton of adapters, so kind of like a break out box. One thing I'd have to figure out is how to protect the tester if someone attempts to kick start the machine with it hooked up. Wouldn't be good to have a 100v spike sent to it from the exciter coil lol.

[SteveRoll]

Well I tried out the other 200e. The one with no compression, it’s about 60-70 psi. I gave it spark and it’s leaking air out around the exhaust. I think the head gasket is gone on that bike. I got one more engine to test it’s a 200m but the stator is off it and the recoil, it was used as a parts bike. I was told it’s a good engine but will need to put a stator on it to find out.

Also out of one 200m that ran earlier it died down shortly after running, I assume fuel issue cause if it’s primed it runs. It also has no airbox on it

[SteveRoll]

Hi guys: could use some help with carbs. I took off one of the carbs on one of the parts trikes and took it apart to learn and clean up the carb. Noticed a lot of dirt in the main and idle jet holes so I cleaned them, reassembled with the fuel ratio mixing screw 1 and 7/8 turns back from all the way screwed in that I read online. Ran up one of the engines and it’s revving extremely high. I had to kill the engine quickly because it ran up very high. I adjusted the choke and tried again and it’s still revving high. On the carb how much is the idle screw suppose to be adjusted? I think that’s the one on the side, I didn’t touch it yet it’s now high revving. Well the carbs are easy to work on, first carb job was almost a success

[Jim mac]

long time ago, I managed to install a slide 180* off and it screamed. if it's in correctly, just turn the screw out a full turn and just be ready to either feather the throttle up or down.
On your motor with low compression, take the valve cover off and check the valve adjustment. I got a trike cheap because it didnt run, the exhaust valve was out of adjustment and not closing all the way. jim

[SteveRoll]

long time ago, I managed to install a slide 180* off and it screamed. if it's in correctly, just turn the screw out a full turn and just be ready to either feather the throttle up or down.
On your motor with low compression, take the valve cover off and check the valve adjustment. I got a trike cheap because it didnt run, the exhaust valve was out of adjustment and not closing all the way. jim

Thanks, I’ll double check. I thought I had the slide in right cause it has a notch on one side for the idle screw so I made sure it lined up. But then again I never checked the otherside so it could have a notch on that side too on the slide.
I just got a clymer manual off a loan from a friend of mine. Haven’t had the chance to read it all yet but excited to.
I’ll check the valves like you mentioned, I haven’t done that yet but looks simple enough on this bike.

For the bike with no compression, when I tested it I put a lil oil in the cylinder since i don’t know whenever it last ever ran. When I attempted to start it, I seen smoke / white combustion gases coming out around the fins close to the exhaust. I’m very positive that the head gasket is gone there. I think it would be easy to just replace the top end on the bike. Only thing I’m kind of uncertain about is the timing of the engine again. I’ve been messing around learning about the carbs and cleaning all the ones here. Next will be taking that engine out and seeing the condition of it for future use. One thing I don’t like on that engine is the foot shift lever is off that bike and the splines look chewed up on it. Other then that it’s a complete bike with everything working ( aside from engine )

[MrConcdid]

Jim Mac is right, the slide can be installed 180 out, one side has a notch the other side has a ramp, the cover will screw back on, but the thumb throttle will have a lot of slop, also a leaking valve will cause one the idle high and or lean, be sure to check and set the valve lash BEFORE you start it. I set the valves now before I do much of anything.

Since you asked.
1. For me I pull the rope feel for compression or resistance.
2. check oil level and color and smell (i don't really know why I do that)
3. blip the throttle see if its frozen.
4. pull the plug, check color, wetness, broken, age
4.5 if you have a compression tester use it now, run test with throttle and choke fully open, look for between 120-150 psi
5. pull rope with plug out but coil wire on plug touching header, looking for spark
6. place a long wooded dowel in spark plug hole, remove pluse cover, remove cap in recoil cover, pull rope slowly watch stick, watch rotor find TDC F-T on the flywheel in the inspection hole on the recoil cover, pulser is indexed and pointing toward the black pick up, stick is at top of stroke this is TDC.
7. Remove valve cover caps check, set valve lash .005ish.
8. Open choke, spray a little carb cleaner in carb and open throttle all the way and pull rope firmly. (if you had spark in step 5, and only after you remove the dowel and replace the plug cleaned)
9. Motor should hit and run a bit, if so remove carb, clean and replace IT, run new fresh gas from new container.
10. Motor should run, if it smokes its either rings or valves
11. Let it run a bit, it could clear out (some of these have set for 25 years) Remove the baffle in the muffler it could have a blockage
12. Check compression again if low its more than likely rings, if compression is 120-150 and it smoked, its valves..

I am not a mechanic (I manage a funeral home), but this is how I do every engine I have.
It works for me, I hope it can work for you.
MrC.