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Thread: How to tell if a engine is good?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    USA
    --
    35
    Yes it is simple to build just gotta follow what wire is what for the simple harness. Basically just recreating the ignition / firing circuit only. I tested the third trike 200e and the stator isn’t producing voltage. Has good compression and a slightly better harness. Only one more trike to test, another 200e. Whichever one is best running I’ll be building a frame up trike. The rest I’ll probably part out cause how much space they take up

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    MI, USA
    --
    3,658
    Yea harnesses aren't that complicated.

    My last message was more in the context of making a testing tool that plugs in where the CDI does to test basic issues, basically a multi meter in a box for people that have a hard time with electronics.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    USA
    --
    35
    Quote Originally Posted by ps2fixer View Post
    Yea harnesses aren't that complicated.

    My last message was more in the context of making a testing tool that plugs in where the CDI does to test basic issues, basically a multi meter in a box for people that have a hard time with electronics.
    That would be a good idea, basically like an electrical outlet test tool. If it could identify the problem it would be excellent.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    MI, USA
    --
    3,658
    Yea, atleast in the context of what the CDI can "see". There's a lot of ways CDI's are wired, so sadly it's not a super universal tool with out a ton of adapters, so kind of like a break out box. One thing I'd have to figure out is how to protect the tester if someone attempts to kick start the machine with it hooked up. Wouldn't be good to have a 100v spike sent to it from the exciter coil lol.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    USA
    --
    35
    Well I tried out the other 200e. The one with no compression, it’s about 60-70 psi. I gave it spark and it’s leaking air out around the exhaust. I think the head gasket is gone on that bike. I got one more engine to test it’s a 200m but the stator is off it and the recoil, it was used as a parts bike. I was told it’s a good engine but will need to put a stator on it to find out.

    Also out of one 200m that ran earlier it died down shortly after running, I assume fuel issue cause if it’s primed it runs. It also has no airbox on it

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    USA
    --
    35
    Hi guys: could use some help with carbs. I took off one of the carbs on one of the parts trikes and took it apart to learn and clean up the carb. Noticed a lot of dirt in the main and idle jet holes so I cleaned them, reassembled with the fuel ratio mixing screw 1 and 7/8 turns back from all the way screwed in that I read online. Ran up one of the engines and it’s revving extremely high. I had to kill the engine quickly because it ran up very high. I adjusted the choke and tried again and it’s still revving high. On the carb how much is the idle screw suppose to be adjusted? I think that’s the one on the side, I didn’t touch it yet it’s now high revving. Well the carbs are easy to work on, first carb job was almost a success

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    az
    --
    1,016
    long time ago, I managed to install a slide 180* off and it screamed. if it's in correctly, just turn the screw out a full turn and just be ready to either feather the throttle up or down.
    On your motor with low compression, take the valve cover off and check the valve adjustment. I got a trike cheap because it didnt run, the exhaust valve was out of adjustment and not closing all the way. jim
    85 200X
    85 200x
    85 atc70
    85 atc70
    85 110

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    USA
    --
    35
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim mac View Post
    long time ago, I managed to install a slide 180* off and it screamed. if it's in correctly, just turn the screw out a full turn and just be ready to either feather the throttle up or down.
    On your motor with low compression, take the valve cover off and check the valve adjustment. I got a trike cheap because it didnt run, the exhaust valve was out of adjustment and not closing all the way. jim
    Thanks, I’ll double check. I thought I had the slide in right cause it has a notch on one side for the idle screw so I made sure it lined up. But then again I never checked the otherside so it could have a notch on that side too on the slide.
    I just got a clymer manual off a loan from a friend of mine. Haven’t had the chance to read it all yet but excited to.
    I’ll check the valves like you mentioned, I haven’t done that yet but looks simple enough on this bike.

    For the bike with no compression, when I tested it I put a lil oil in the cylinder since i don’t know whenever it last ever ran. When I attempted to start it, I seen smoke / white combustion gases coming out around the fins close to the exhaust. I’m very positive that the head gasket is gone there. I think it would be easy to just replace the top end on the bike. Only thing I’m kind of uncertain about is the timing of the engine again. I’ve been messing around learning about the carbs and cleaning all the ones here. Next will be taking that engine out and seeing the condition of it for future use. One thing I don’t like on that engine is the foot shift lever is off that bike and the splines look chewed up on it. Other then that it’s a complete bike with everything working ( aside from engine )

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