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Thread: How to clean 350x gas tank out ?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Southern California
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    69

    How to clean 350x gas tank out ?

    My 350x carb keeps getting gunked up, so I took the tank off and drained the fuel I just put it...it was dark brown !! I felt the inside with my finger and it was COATED in rust , it felt like a half inch thick all around the inside of the tank. Anyone know a home remedy to clean this out ? Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Corona CA
    --
    808
    I’m sure there are ways , but if your tank is that rusty and this isn’t some kind of garage queen restoration, get a Clarke. Or an IMS , opinions will vary on what’s better. But either way get a plastic tank. Just my .02. Hope to see you at the invasion.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mexico
    --
    9,003
    We use Evapo Rust at work with mops and rags works great for surface rust. I tried to do a tank with it once but there was still rust after the first try and on the second go around I ended up making a mess and the tank was pretty much ruined. Probably my bad, but I wasn't willing to risk a second screw-up on my otherwise minty GS tank.

    My first attempt on the second tank was with vinegar. It cleaned the rust out, but I wasn't able to neutralize it fast enough to prevent flash rusting and it came back tenfold. Then I pulled out the Kreem kit I bought a few years ago only to find that 90% of the chemicals had evaporated from the sealed and taped plastic wrapped kit (where did it go???).

    So I went to Home Depot and found something called Metal Rescue. It was amazing! Removed all the rust and as soon as I drained it back into the jugs (its reusable and green) Rather than trying to rinse it with distilled water I poured a liter of Diesel into the tank and sloshed it around for a few minutes before draining it.

    The inside of the tank has been shiny like new since last spring. I highly recommend this stuff and you can use it over and over if the tank ever rusts again. With a sealer your stuck with it forever. I would only use sealer if I had a leak.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    devore,ca
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    1,015
    The cheap toilet cleaner from Walmart works wonders. I think it's called the "works". Pour it in, slosh it around let it sit for 15 min. Then take a power washer and stick it through the filler hole and wash it out. I've done this a few times and they come out looking like new. You need to immediately spray some WD 40 all over the inside, or better yet fill it with gas all the way to the top and add just a bit of 2 stroke oil to it or it will surface rust right away.
    YAMAHA 450 HYBRID
    85 350X- RED
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    86 350x-WHITE (with Goki)
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Soutwestern PA
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    2,040
    I would buy a 5 gallon can of Evaporust and fill the tank to the very top. I'd probably let it sit 24-48 hours before draining and checking status. Save the Evaporust, it can be used multiple times.
    Second choice would be apple cider vinegar, but you have to neutralize it immediately (baking soda & water?) as Elcamex stated.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mexico
    --
    9,003
    Quote Originally Posted by keister View Post
    I would buy a 5 gallon can of Evaporust and fill the tank to the very top. I'd probably let it sit 24-48 hours before draining and checking status. Save the Evaporust, it can be used multiple times.
    Second choice would be apple cider vinegar, but you have to neutralize it immediately (baking soda & water?) as Elcamex stated.
    The neutralization step is the one I can't seem to get right. You're supposed to use distilled water and baking soda and that works great for muriatic acid and bolts that I can dry with a towel, but on the tanks I can't seem to get the neutralizing mix in fast enough. By the time the tank is drained of the vinegar it's flash rusting. With the Metal Rescue there is no neutralization required and the residue keeps the metal protected until I can get the diesel in.

    Many more videos out there, buy this was the one that sold me on Metal Rescue.

    PS. Almost forgot, you MUST make sure the inside of the tank is completely free of any oils before you start with Metal Rescue, or Evaporust. They're not solvents and can't dissolve any rust that has a film on it. It just beads off like water on oil.

    Having previously used diesel in my tank I had to flush it with gas and then some paint thinner (careful with the outside of your tank) before using warm water and dish soap. You will get flash rust after the fresh water rinse, but the Metal Rescue gets rid of it.

    Last edited by El Camexican; 02-12-2020 at 07:24 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Lexington, KY
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    117
    I have started using Evaporust I buy a gallon and let it set inside a tank turning the tank every few hours. After confirming I have gotten it all I will pour the Evaporust back into its bottle then I boil water and rinse out the tank with boiling water until the water comes out clear. After that I will pour acetone into the tank and be sure to coat the entire inside this will remove the water it might take a couple rinses. I will then leave it out in the sun to evaporate it doesn't take long (I have never tried it but have been told blowing it out with compressed air is faster). This sets you up with a dry interior that you can quickly pour 2 stroke oil into or you can pour a liner like red kote into it if you desire. red koat can be mixed with acetone so you don't even have to let acetone evaporate. If your tank is bad enough that you need red coat please practice on a couple tanks that are not critical. The first first one I did I rushed it and it preformed poorly. If your tank is heavily rusted you can start by taking a section of chain and shake it inside the tank to get some of the larger rust out.

    WARNING: Acetone WILL eat your paint. the last one I did I covered the entire tank in a quality masking tape. Maybe I got lucky? But I have also damaged paint jobs at the acetone step before I started using masking tape. Also Every time I have done this it was done outside in the summer please be cautions of the fumes.
    1982 ATC185s
    1982 Suspended ATC185s
    1984 ATC70
    1984 ATC 250r
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    1974 Pacesetter 3
    1984 kawasaki 185
    1977 Atc 90
    1983 ATC 200x

    My suspended ATC185s build thread.
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...s-Build-Thread

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Connecticut
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    1,605
    I have heard too many horror stories about Kreem or red Kote tank liner peeling off.

    I have had great luck with Bill Hirsch tank sealer

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mexico
    --
    9,003
    Quote Originally Posted by Hopper055 View Post
    WARNING: Acetone WILL eat your paint. the last one I did I covered the entire tank in a quality masking tape. Maybe I got lucky? But I have also damaged paint jobs at the acetone step before I started using masking tape. Also Every time I have done this it was done outside in the summer please be cautions of the fumes.
    I'll add a warning to your warning. When you cover paint with plastic, tape or anything like it and the fluid or in some cases even just the vapor from paint thinner, acetone, brake cleaner, carb cleaner or brake fluid gets under it you're almost guaranteed to ruin your paint. You must have done a good job of not spilling a drop. I haven't tried it yet, but I've thought about greasing the entire exterior of the tank if I was ever concerned about damaging the paint.

    What I have done is masked a section of a tank where I knew there was Bondo while trying to protect it from paint stripper in another area and the fumes from the stripper got under the masking tape and lifted the paint and ruined the Bondo as well. It worked so good that now if I'm having issues getting tough old paint to lift I'll cover the stripper to hold the vapor in, seems to help a lot.

    Same with brake fluid, I've done more damage trying to protect my paint than I do when I just have a bunch of clean rags ready to go. When some gets past your protective barrier and you don't know your paint is ruined, but if you can clean it up in less than a minute nothing happens. Unfortunately strong solvents aren't as forgiving.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    --
    661
    Metal Rescue every time. You won't be disappointed. Awesome results.
    Presently own:
    1986 Honda atc350X
    1985 Honda atc250r
    1984 Honda 200es Big Red
    1983 Honda atc185s
    1985 Honda atc70
    1975 Honda Z50 mini bike
    OEM Hondaline Utility Trailer (mint condition - as new)
    1989 Honda FL400R Pilot - newly acquired.
    1968 Corvette L36 427/390HP convertible

  11. #11
    Arky-X is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Arkansas
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    529
    I used apple cider vinegar and it worked well removing the rust. I rinsed with water and baking soda then used an air nozzle to dry out. Coated with WD-40 but still got some flash rust. It has been sitting for a while now so I will need to use another round and will use either EvapoRust or Metal Rescue.
    There are no leaks so I'm not sure if I need to coat it once the rust is gone but if I do I will probably use Caswell.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Southwest Nebraska
    --
    10
    I have cleaned many fuel tanks from motorcycles or tractors using electrolysis. It works very well and gets ALL the rust.

    Get some Arm and Hammer WASHING soda, not baking soda. You will find this in a yellow box in any Wal Mart. I mix a cup of washing soda to a gallon of water. Once the tank is completely filled up, find a piece of mild steel to stick into the filler neck down into the tank as far as possible, making sure the steel is not touching the tank anywhere. Using a small battery charger or other low amperage DC power source, connect the negative cable to the tank and the positive to the steel annode in the tank. One the electricity is flowing, the process is running. Bubbles will appear at the filler neck. These bubbles are hydrogen gas, so DO NOT DO THIS PROCESS INSIDE AN ENCLOSED AREA, lest the hydrogen accumulate somehow. You can let this process go for several days as it is self-regulating and once all the rust is clinging to the annode, the process stops.

    When you are done, you can dump the solution anywhere since it is completely harmless. It will have high iron content so it might be good for vegetation that needs iron. If I am not coating the inside of the tank, I just slosh around some diesel and painter's alcohol to get the moisture out and prevent flash rust.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    stonecreek ohio usa
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    654
    I have also used metal rescue with good results. Its pretty good stuff

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Florida
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    1,044
    I have had mixed results, with many attempts.
    I think it all depends on "how bad it is" I have had a few tanks with rust, white vinegar soak for 2 days, the rinse with baking soda / distilled water then heat dried asap this alone will clean a slightly rusty tank, then fill with marine gas no ethanol. I have used Red Kote twice, it peeled once and worked once, I have used eastwoods tank sealer after the vinegar/soda clean, it is still curing (3 days). This was a very bad tank, sloshing bolts around inside to loosen the rust opened a pin hole. I don't know if I saved it or not yet, I do know I have lost days trying to save it.

    For the time and money expensed in saving a bad tank, I will buy a plastic aftermarket one from now on, unless its super clean inside, I will just replace it. I do not deal with garage queens, I am saving the dead, and plastic tank just makes more sense all the way around.

    Here is a runner with a very old/faded clarke tank, they last forever it seems.
    I may look into RIT Dyeing this tank if it doesn't sell soon I don't like to paint plastic.

    MrC.
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