Well I’ve been thinking about plumbing the shop air up finally. What is every body else using to move compressed air thru there shop?
Well I’ve been thinking about plumbing the shop air up finally. What is every body else using to move compressed air thru there shop?
If its on the internet its got to be true they can't put any lie's on the internet
I used soldered 1/2" copper throughout. If you don't want to experience any lag in the system you should make it a continuous closed loop system that effectively feeds equally from both ends. The tee would have to be downstream of your separator/regulator off the discharge of the compressor. I also put a block valve and quick connect at every point I need to supply air, ie sandblaster, workbench, air hose, etc. And one more idea I was able to do with my standup style compressor was to put a u-shaped loop straight down from the tank with a drain at the lowest point before it heads up the wall to the separator/regulator. I get lots of water here! Here's a post I replied to awhile back.
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ght=compressor
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1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
1972/73 US 90 Green
1977 ATC 90 w/83 110 motor (Fugly)
1982 ATC 70
1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
1973 ATC 70
1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain
TF 2015
Other
1983 Honda Z50
1978 Honda XL75
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I was planning on running 1”or2” for the extra volume. If I ran a loop I would have a couple grand in just pipe. The shop is 40x80. I’ve heard a lot about making it a loop but any more it would just be for filling tires or blowing off stuff. The tool that consume most of the air are the tire machine and blast cabinet. Have you had any issues with pipe leaks with out a flexible pipe between the compressor and piping ?
If its on the internet its got to be true they can't put any lie's on the internet
I use the Milton type V high-flow connectors. A lot better airflow. The other nice thing is there a simple push to connect, you don't have to pull the collar back to connect them. You still have to pull the collar back to disconnect them all
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http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...t=Scootertrash
Trikes
1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
1972/73 US 90 Green
1977 ATC 90 w/83 110 motor (Fugly)
1982 ATC 70
1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
1973 ATC 70
1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain
TF 2015
Other
1983 Honda Z50
1978 Honda XL75
Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-coopool
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...k-for-coolpool
Trikes
1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
1972/73 US 90 Green
1977 ATC 90 w/83 110 motor (Fugly)
1982 ATC 70
1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
1973 ATC 70
1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain
TF 2015
Other
1983 Honda Z50
1978 Honda XL75
Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-coopool
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...k-for-coolpool
I was originally go into use schedule 80 pvc pipe but everybody keeps trying to talk me out of it. Cause when it explodes it has shrapnel. But I know shops that has had it in there for 20+ years with out a problem.
If its on the internet its got to be true they can't put any lie's on the internet
We run that and it breaks alot. Ours is twenty year old sch80 and we have a couple blowout every year for the last three yrs.... it's 2" diameter. I would not suggest it. Ive been cut by the shrapnel myself. We're hoping to run new steel pipe soon.
They always break right around glue joints and it's almost always the coupler, elbow, tee, or valve piece that always fractures, not the pipe itself
We just got a big new Ingersoll compressor and they would not warranty the installation because of that plumbing so that's another thing to consider
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I was in a shop last year, that had PVC air line.
We were replacing the clutch on a Freightliner and suddenly, boom, whooooossssshhhh. A joint blew apart nearby and the entire system went down. Good thing I was wearing brown pants that day.
I'm not a fan of PVC either.
The story of three wheels and a man...
Please DO NOT USE PVC, I did and at 175psi, I had an explosion, it sent piece 1.5 feet long pipe 40 feet across the shop, I had just walked past that bay when it blew.
At the very least run rubber hose to brass nipples and Y-splitters mounted to the wall, if that's all you have the budget for.
Learn from other's mistake, had my daughter been hit or I lost an eye or something, I would never forgive myself.
Just not worth it.
MrC.
I used cooper in my shop but heard of people using pex. Pex is used to plumb water supplies in homes. It’s cheap and can handle some good psi. Do not use black iron the moisture rusts the inside of the pipes.
1982 ATC 70
1983 ATC 200E yard rat
1984 ATC 200X
1984 ATC 200S (X2)
1985 ATC 70 (X2)
1985 ATC 200S
1985 ATC 250R
1986 TRX 70
1986 ATC 350X
2004 kfx 700 XC
2006 prarie 700 XC
2009 Brute Force 750
2020 CF Moto 600
I used stainless steel instrumentation tubing and fittings to do the lines and outlets in my shop. Light and bends great around corners and other piping. I am an instrumentation mechanic so material was close to free. I have a smaller shop so 1/2" tube works great. Not affected by moisture.
3/4 copper
1/2 drops
Plenty for 175psi
Trikes
1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
1972/73 US 90 Green
1977 ATC 90 w/83 110 motor (Fugly)
1982 ATC 70
1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
1973 ATC 70
1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain
TF 2015
Other
1983 Honda Z50
1978 Honda XL75
Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-coopool
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...k-for-coolpool
3/4 copper main is plenty. PVC works but is sketchy, we ran PVC in my buddies attic with drops in certain areas to flexible line. We had to get air a long distance on a shoestring budget. Many of the tool catalog places i.e
Northern Tool have a set up that is similar to pex but with push to connect fittings. I have thought about pex, its rated for 160 psi at 180° (or real close) I've never made up a test section and torture tested. When I move into new house it's going to be copper unless I can convince myself to run pex. Copper pipe isn't to pricey, the fittings are what gets ya. Old fashioned air hose is pretty reliable!