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Thread: Shop air lines

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    ohio
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    1,749

    Shop air lines

    Well I’ve been thinking about plumbing the shop air up finally. What is every body else using to move compressed air thru there shop?
    If its on the internet its got to be true they can't put any lie's on the internet

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
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    3,001
    I used soldered 1/2" copper throughout. If you don't want to experience any lag in the system you should make it a continuous closed loop system that effectively feeds equally from both ends. The tee would have to be downstream of your separator/regulator off the discharge of the compressor. I also put a block valve and quick connect at every point I need to supply air, ie sandblaster, workbench, air hose, etc. And one more idea I was able to do with my standup style compressor was to put a u-shaped loop straight down from the tank with a drain at the lowest point before it heads up the wall to the separator/regulator. I get lots of water here! Here's a post I replied to awhile back.

    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ght=compressor
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    ohio
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    I was planning on running 1”or2” for the extra volume. If I ran a loop I would have a couple grand in just pipe. The shop is 40x80. I’ve heard a lot about making it a loop but any more it would just be for filling tires or blowing off stuff. The tool that consume most of the air are the tire machine and blast cabinet. Have you had any issues with pipe leaks with out a flexible pipe between the compressor and piping ?
    If its on the internet its got to be true they can't put any lie's on the internet

  4. #4
    Scootertrash's Avatar
    Scootertrash is offline Just Too Addicted: Protecting Our Community The day begins with 3WW
    Join Date
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    I use the Milton type V high-flow connectors. A lot better airflow. The other nice thing is there a simple push to connect, you don't have to pull the collar back to connect them. You still have to pull the collar back to disconnect them all
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by big specht View Post
    I was planning on running 1”or2” for the extra volume. If I ran a loop I would have a couple grand in just pipe. The shop is 40x80. I’ve heard a lot about making it a loop but any more it would just be for filling tires or blowing off stuff. The tool that consume most of the air are the tire machine and blast cabinet. Have you had any issues with pipe leaks with out a flexible pipe between the compressor and piping ?
    Whew 1" or 2", that is some big stuff to run and correct, expensive! You wouldn't need a closed loop system with that setup. I'm hard piped from tank to service; I think that was another post that ran flexible line for vibration control?
    Trikes
    1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
    1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
    1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
    1972/73 US 90 Green
    1977 ATC 90 w/83 110 motor (Fugly)
    1982 ATC 70
    1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
    1973 ATC 70

    1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain

    TF 2015

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    1983 Honda Z50
    1978 Honda XL75

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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scootertrash View Post
    I use the Milton type V high-flow connectors. A lot better airflow. The other nice thing is there a simple push to connect, you don't have to pull the collar back to connect them. You still have to pull the collar back to disconnect them all
    Never heard of them, neat! I think I use the type 'M' connection which seems to be common around here. Not sure who makes it?
    Trikes
    1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
    1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
    1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
    1972/73 US 90 Green
    1977 ATC 90 w/83 110 motor (Fugly)
    1982 ATC 70
    1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
    1973 ATC 70

    1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain

    TF 2015

    Other
    1983 Honda Z50
    1978 Honda XL75

    Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-coopool
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...k-for-coolpool

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    ohio
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    I was originally go into use schedule 80 pvc pipe but everybody keeps trying to talk me out of it. Cause when it explodes it has shrapnel. But I know shops that has had it in there for 20+ years with out a problem.
    If its on the internet its got to be true they can't put any lie's on the internet

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    The Open Road
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    Quote Originally Posted by big specht View Post
    I was originally go into use schedule 80 pvc pipe but everybody keeps trying to talk me out of it. Cause when it explodes it has shrapnel. But I know shops that has had it in there for 20+ years with out a problem.
    We run that and it breaks alot. Ours is twenty year old sch80 and we have a couple blowout every year for the last three yrs.... it's 2" diameter. I would not suggest it. Ive been cut by the shrapnel myself. We're hoping to run new steel pipe soon.

    They always break right around glue joints and it's almost always the coupler, elbow, tee, or valve piece that always fractures, not the pipe itself

    We just got a big new Ingersoll compressor and they would not warranty the installation because of that plumbing so that's another thing to consider

    Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
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    2,196
    I was in a shop last year, that had PVC air line.


    We were replacing the clutch on a Freightliner and suddenly, boom, whooooossssshhhh. A joint blew apart nearby and the entire system went down. Good thing I was wearing brown pants that day.


    I'm not a fan of PVC either.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Florida
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    1,044
    Please DO NOT USE PVC, I did and at 175psi, I had an explosion, it sent piece 1.5 feet long pipe 40 feet across the shop, I had just walked past that bay when it blew.
    At the very least run rubber hose to brass nipples and Y-splitters mounted to the wall, if that's all you have the budget for.

    Learn from other's mistake, had my daughter been hit or I lost an eye or something, I would never forgive myself.
    Just not worth it.
    MrC.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    new hampshire
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    914
    I used cooper in my shop but heard of people using pex. Pex is used to plumb water supplies in homes. It’s cheap and can handle some good psi. Do not use black iron the moisture rusts the inside of the pipes.
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  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Beaver County
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    19
    I used stainless steel instrumentation tubing and fittings to do the lines and outlets in my shop. Light and bends great around corners and other piping. I am an instrumentation mechanic so material was close to free. I have a smaller shop so 1/2" tube works great. Not affected by moisture.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    new england
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    1,391
    3/4 copper
    1/2 drops

    Plenty for 175psi

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
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    3,001
    Quote Originally Posted by big specht View Post
    I was originally go into use schedule 80 pvc pipe but everybody keeps trying to talk me out of it. Cause when it explodes it has shrapnel. But I know shops that has had it in there for 20+ years with out a problem.
    Never heard of using PVC that but you could always wrap it in duct tape for safety? It's fairly cheap...the duct tape I mean.
    Trikes
    1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
    1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
    1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
    1972/73 US 90 Green
    1977 ATC 90 w/83 110 motor (Fugly)
    1982 ATC 70
    1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
    1973 ATC 70

    1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain

    TF 2015

    Other
    1983 Honda Z50
    1978 Honda XL75

    Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-coopool
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...k-for-coolpool

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    indiana
    --
    891
    3/4 copper main is plenty. PVC works but is sketchy, we ran PVC in my buddies attic with drops in certain areas to flexible line. We had to get air a long distance on a shoestring budget. Many of the tool catalog places i.e
    Northern Tool have a set up that is similar to pex but with push to connect fittings. I have thought about pex, its rated for 160 psi at 180° (or real close) I've never made up a test section and torture tested. When I move into new house it's going to be copper unless I can convince myself to run pex. Copper pipe isn't to pricey, the fittings are what gets ya. Old fashioned air hose is pretty reliable!

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