//ArrowChat Code
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 43

Thread: Should I save it.

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Florida
    --
    1,044
    Great Job,
    I hear people say just a rider, I personally feel all but a few should be riders, enjoy it, you earned it, you took the chance, you fixed it.
    My definition of a rider is a nice complete bike, NOT missing fenders, headlights and seats, that's a piece of crap.
    All I can afford to build are riders, but there nice, I am proud of them, and people always comment when they see them.
    My riders below.
    MrC.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200425_141347.jpg 
Views:	67 
Size:	536.4 KB 
ID:	262533   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20200426_130438.jpg 
Views:	70 
Size:	1.58 MB 
ID:	262534  

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Missouri
    --
    35
    Finally got the tires and tank in and installed. Was able to get it running to ride around the yard. Carb is dumping fuel out the bottom of the it. I have a rebuild kit but when I took the carb apart to clean it the air fuel mixture screw broke off.






    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    --
    2,196
    Excellent tire choice. Super capable in the dry, smooth riding, and still perform in muddy field conditions, where work actually takes place.

    The plastic tanks on those look good. Why fight a rusty metal tank when the aftermarket ones won't rust and don't look out of place.

    Fuel tanks for the ATC 185/200 line in plastic look absolutely fugly compared to those.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
    --
    4,114
    Defo a clean machine vs what it could be like. I could see the engine was in good shape, very few are in that good of shape, most of mine have the bolts rusted from sitting so long. Fenders are over rated for the short term, just stay clear of rainy days and mud and you'll have a blast. Personally would just keep an eye out for one that truely is trashed but is more complete with fenders and such and buy it purely for the parts to fix that one, no point in buying a set of fenders when you can get a whole parts machine for about that price with okish fenders plus the rack you need to mount them, and the other misc parts that nickle and dime you.

    I'd dare to say with it running and riding (fix the carb leak), and leave the mis match seat off it, sold as is but running and driving on craigslist/facebook should get you $400+ if you don't want to keep it in the long run. Someone with the right parts already on hand could complete it and have a really nice machine.

    Ironically I have a parts machine with most of the parts you need, I paid $350 for it because the engine wouldn't shift right and it's a beater. Already needed the gas tank and rear end for other machines and I still have a running engine and a bunch of more parts if I ever need em. If I came across a machine like that, I'd be throwing my parts on it to complete 100%.

    For the carb leaking, I'd check where the source is, either it's at the over flow (float not cutting off the fuel, aka needle and seat) or the float bowl gasket is bad which is a preformed o-ring and the carb rebuild kit would have that. If I recall correctly, the drain hose is where the over flow dumps to as well.

    Good luck with the project. Personally if I wanted a machine to ride, I'd try to source a seat for it and ride it as is until you can find another machine for the most cost effective way to fix it, or throw money at it for the parts you need and hope you don't get more into it than what it's worth. Values are different in different areas, here a complete rider is probably $1000-1500.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Missouri
    --
    35
    Was able to fix the leak. It was some trash on the seat not letting the needle close all the way. Was able to ride it for awhile. Has plenty of power. Next is to locate a seat, fenders, and rack. And try to figure out the electric start.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
    --
    4,114
    Electric start is pretty simple.

    Requirements (if all is good)

    Ignition switch on
    Good main fuse (20amp near battery)
    Good secondary fuse (15 amp under black cover where headlight goes)
    Engine in neutral (I've bought a machine non running that was just in first gear before lol)
    Of course a good battery, they draw somewhere around 100amps, you could jump it off a car battery, just careful not to short anything out etc.
    And of course starter button pressed


    If all of that is check, then there's an issue in the system and a test light or better yet a multi meter would be really helpful. Here's a couple quick things off the top of my head to test though.

    Jump the battery, turn ignition switch on, turn on lights, do you have any lights on at all with machine not running (dash lights, tail lights, or headlight if you install one). If no lights at all, then could be blown bulbs, start the engine and see if they light up (directly powered from the engine in this case). If you have lights while running, but not while on battery only, there's an issue between the battery and main power source wire, most common is the fuse, but the battery positive wire has a small lead that is somewhat common to break off. Another possible thing is the ignition switch. Can dig into more diag work once I know a bit more about the situation.

    If you have dash lights, does the neutral light work as normal? If it does, it *should* mean the wiring is working for the neutral safety for the CDI box (no spark if not in neutral), and it's also the ground wire for the starter solenoid (only can crank while in neutral).

    With working lights and working neutral light, if still no click from the starter solenoid, the starter button might not be functioning as it should, or internal damage to the wiring inside the left handle bar controls. Could give more diag info if this is the case. The Yellow/red wire is the wire that goes from the starter button to the starter solenoid, that's the +12v if you wanted to "hot wire" it to test the solenoid.

    If you get the solenoid click, but no starter action, make sure the battery cable from starter to solenoid has good connection and you could bypass the solenoid by jumping the two big lugs with something metal. It will arc and such so not really a good thing to do all the time. Also you have to not hit the frame while doing it else you really get some fireworks going (more amps, more arcing lol). A bit safer way would be to jumper cable the postive to the starter lug and have the ground wire hooked up on both ends, and use the jumper cable as the "switch" and have the arc at the battery cable end.

    FYI, don't use the cheapest lowest quality jumper cables if possible, it should have a fair sized copper wire inside else you might not get much cranking power through it (voltage drop and the wire heats up). My jumper cables I've used for years now is around 6 gauge wire and about 10ft long. Works well enough to start any smaller engine or atv, 1970's era V8 it would probably struggle a lot with. My dad's jumper cables are for those machines, 0 or 00 gauge heavy welding cable leads and something like 15ft long. He could jump a semi with them no problem.

    Good luck with the diag work for the electric start, it's a pretty simple system, if you can read wire diagrams, I can upload an image, or just download the service manual, it starts on page 273.

    http://www.oscarmayer.net/atc/manuals/

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Missouri
    --
    35
    It’s missing the headlight/taillights. When I jumped it the neutral light would not light up. When I crossed the solenoid with a screwdriver it cranked over and the neutral light lit up. It only works when the engine sends power to it. Not getting power from the battery to the the ignition switch or right past it. So I have a problem somewhere just not sure where yet. While running the neutral and reverse light work. Really haven’t dug into it yet.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
    --
    4,114
    Sounds like the main power supply wire then. Primary fuse by the battery or the wire damaged there would be my guess. When the engine is running, it runs through the secondary fuse and ignition switch, so both of those should be fine. That should narrow it down pretty well lol. The solid red wire near the battery should be the wire you want to look for.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Missouri
    --
    35
    Was able to get the it start with the starter. Had a bad fuse and had to clean the spring and little contact washer on the starter button.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    USA
    --
    4,114

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Missouri
    --
    35

    Should I save it.

    Got more parts in. Changed oil and filter. Oil that was in it looked fairly good. Installed headlight cage rack and a led after making some brackets. Also put on rear rack that came in today. It’s been a lot of fun so far. In need of a seat and fenders. In my search for parts came across a gas tank,front and rear rack for a 200 big red. Got them cheap, so I bought them.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Oregon
    --
    591
    Looking good. I’d ride it!
    Trikes owned:
    83 Honda 200x "Liquid X"
    81 DG 250r : Sold

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Missouri
    --
    35
    Was riding around the yard I put it in reverse, it sounded like there was something rattling in the crankcase transmission area afterwards. It made the noise in any gear and in neutral while revving the motor. After missing with the reverse lever it stopped. Has this happened to anyone else. I went ahead and ordered some aftermarket fenders and bought a seat off eBay. I will probably end up with more money in it than it’s worth.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Florida
    --
    1,044
    Down here there worth 2500-3000.
    So it's a good investment.
    MrC.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
    --
    3,001
    Quote Originally Posted by scottta1 View Post
    Was riding around the yard I put it in reverse, it sounded like there was something rattling in the crankcase transmission area afterwards. It made the noise in any gear and in neutral while revving the motor. After missing with the reverse lever it stopped. Has this happened to anyone else. I went ahead and ordered some aftermarket fenders and bought a seat off eBay. I will probably end up with more money in it than it’s worth.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    It's worth looking into. All your other unknowns have worked out by the sounds of it. Might be why it was parked originally? There might be a small ball and spring that holds the FWD/Rev gears apart in a detent that is causing some slight clashing. IDK the machine but could be something simple.
    Trikes
    1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
    1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
    1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
    1972/73 US 90 Green
    1977 ATC 90 w/83 110 motor (Fugly)
    1982 ATC 70
    1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
    1973 ATC 70

    1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain

    TF 2015

    Other
    1983 Honda Z50
    1978 Honda XL75

    Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-coopool
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...k-for-coolpool

//ArrowChat Integreation Code //