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Thread: carb/jet info needed 1984 250r

  1. #1
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    carb/jet info needed 1984 250r

    Its my first time rebuilding and I need help with the carburetor. The engine is bored to 310 with a fresh rebuild, it was seized. The carb was rebuilt before and the jets are good. I do not know how to tell if they are correct or modified. Do the slow jet and main jet have a setting like the air and idle screw or do they just get set in? The needle jet is supposed to be in the third notch, right? Should I change the jets all together because of the change from 250 to 310? Im quite unsure about the carb, any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

  2. #2
    TexFest's Avatar
    TexFest is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Jets just screw in, there should be a number on them


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  3. #3
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    thank you, any thoughts or opinions on rejetting?

  4. #4
    TexFest's Avatar
    TexFest is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Quote Originally Posted by V-dog69 View Post
    thank you, any thoughts or opinions on rejetting?
    Have no clue, you could try finding the stock jetting info and work around that


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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by V-dog69 View Post
    Its my first time rebuilding and I need help with the carburetor. The engine is bored to 310 with a fresh rebuild, it was seized. The carb was rebuilt before and the jets are good. I do not know how to tell if they are correct or modified. Do the slow jet and main jet have a setting like the air and idle screw or do they just get set in? The needle jet is supposed to be in the third notch, right? Should I change the jets all together because of the change from 250 to 310? Im quite unsure about the carb, any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
    If you do facebook, join air cooled ATC250r group, guys there could give you details on jetting. I would buy a carb off an 86 250r and rejet that to work with your fooler

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by V-dog69 View Post
    Its my first time rebuilding and I need help with the carburetor. The engine is bored to 310 with a fresh rebuild, it was seized. The carb was rebuilt before and the jets are good. I do not know how to tell if they are correct or modified. Do the slow jet and main jet have a setting like the air and idle screw or do they just get set in? The needle jet is supposed to be in the third notch, right? Should I change the jets all together because of the change from 250 to 310? Im quite unsure about the carb, any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
    So number one, it’s impossible to bore from a 250r to a 310. So do you have a hondaline 300 kit in it or are you running the stock cylinder? What do the numbers say on the side of your carburetor? Are you running an airbox with a lid?
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  7. #7
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    The engine was seized when I got it so with a lot of help I got it torn down and took the top end to be machined. The shop told me the best they could do with the amount of damage to the cylinder was 60 thousands of an inch over. Im trying to get it all figured out but am wrong a lot of the time when trying to explain something or ask a question, I apologize. Maybe the previous owner had the 300 kit on it, how would i check? Or maybe Im completely wrong in thinking its a 310 after the bore lol.

    The air box has a lid, I was going to run without the lid.

    Im going to double check the numbers on the carb and will update.

    thank you.

  8. #8
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    the number on the carb is 30AAVF+. the second A has a square around it. i have attached a pic of the carb with the number and a pic of the tag on the bottom end. hopefully the bottom end pic is helpful in figuring out if the 300 kit is whats there or if my walls are as thin as paper.Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #9
    TexFest's Avatar
    TexFest is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Usually if you have 6 cylinder head studs it’s factory and 7 studs is 300 cylinder


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  10. #10
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    thank you to everyone for helping me out, I thought I was threw the thick of things but now realize how lucky I got. Figuring this out has answered a lot of questions. There's 7 holes on the old gasket. I am thinking I need to upgrade to a bigger carb with proper jetting.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by V-dog69 View Post
    the number on the carb is 30AAVF+. the second A has a square around it. i have attached a pic of the carb with the number and a pic of the tag on the bottom end. hopefully the bottom end pic is helpful in figuring out if the 300 kit is whats there or if my walls are as thin as paper.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0717.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	1.59 MB 
ID:	262884Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	11 
Size:	1.48 MB 
ID:	262885
    As another poster said. If it’s 7 studs it’s a 300 cylinder and yes you would be close to 305 at .060” over. Regardless the carb you have is an 83/84 Honda oem PE. That carburetor was the same one used on the 300 kit so you won’t need a bigger carb unless you just want one. Leave your airbox in and use the lid. I would upgrade to a uni filter and make sure you buy the oil/cleaner kit with it and oil the filter before use. Lastly disassemble the carb, clean it thoroughly and ensure it is set to the following specs.
    Main: 130
    Pilot: 50
    Airscrew: 1-1/2 turns out
    Float level: 20mm
    Needle clip: 3rd from top
    Last edited by yaegerb; 05-25-2020 at 10:12 PM.
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  12. #12
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    Jun 2012
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    awesome, thanks for all the advice and help.

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