So i went out this morning to see if it would fire back up.
Full choked it and fired right up and just slowly backed the choke down to off and it stayed running no problem. Went out for another short cruise. Man that diff lock/unlock is nice. Unlocked you can turn on a dime, locked it liked to push the front end lol.
I need a heat gun to heat up the front fender as its bowed in slightly just enough to catch the front tire if the front end arcs from a bump or dip but other than that its an amazing running wheeler.
Also the front break doesnt seem to work hardly at all, its not enough to stop it but the rear will lock up the tires no issue. Wondering if its just bad pads or maybe i need to reset the arm on the splines to have it get a better pull or what.
So now it still runs great and im looking around at tires to see how getting another new rear tire and possibly a front just so it has new tires all the way around.
Definitely sounds good. Just remember with all things old, as soon as you think you have everything figured out and fixed, something new and exciting will pop up. I think a nice soft close to OEM 2 ply knobby is made by Chen-Sing (sp) or something like that?
More than likely the brake shoes are worn and you might as well look at the front wheel bearings once you're in there. Don't be surprised if the front axle is hard to come out, they can be a PITA! Did you download the manual yet?
Trikes
1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
1972/73 US 90 Green
1977 ATC 90 w/83 110 motor (Fugly)
1982 ATC 70
1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
1973 ATC 70
1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain
TF 2015
Other
1983 Honda Z50
1978 Honda XL75
Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-coopool
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...k-for-coolpool
The next thing you should do is lube all of the cables. Get a good cable lubber and go at it.
Lubed cables help with braking power. You shouldn't be moving the brake arm on the shaft, that indicates the shoes need replaced.
I like the CST C829 tire. It's very supple, has good grip and holds up well if not putting a lot of pavement miles on them. The ones I'm using now are several years old and not a bit of dry rotting or cracking. Of course, the trike stays in a shop when not used. Keeping tires out of the sun when stored is key to long life. UV rays destroy tires, that's why RVers put those tire covers on when at a campsite and Jeeps should always have a cover on the spare.
Last edited by ATC King; 07-04-2020 at 08:23 AM.
The story of three wheels and a man...
Lubing all the cable should be next on the list. Get a motorcycle cable lubber and go at it.
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0182
I also like the CST C829 tire. It's very supple, has good traction and last a long time if keeping off of pavement. For a two ply tire, they are pretty hard to puncture too.
https://www.csttires.com/de/tire/c829/
I've used the Kenda Scorpions too, but I think the CST rides better and has better traction in dry terrain because it's so flexible.
A product I use in all my ATC tires is Quadboss tire sealant.
https://quadboss.com/tire-wheel/tires/tire-sealant
I've used several of the other tire sealants out there, and this stuff works, hands down. It's also doesn't damage the wheels after being in for years. Slime says it won't but it does, I know for a fact. The Quadboss sealant is expensive, but compared to a trailside flat, it's well worth it. I buy the gallon size, because that's the next best value to the five gallon bucket. I use in in all our lawn movers and they never get flats. I've used it on tires with bad beads and they sealed up. Weyerhaeuser clear cuts timber land here, and if you know how nasty that stuff is, I've never gotten a flat riding through it.
Last edited by ATC King; 07-03-2020 at 12:53 PM.
The story of three wheels and a man...
I’ll have to look into that stuff! I thought about getting some sort of tire sealant to throw in the one and ride it around until I got around to getting another rear tire.
As far as lubing the cables go I never would have thought to do something like that. Just any type of lubricant or is there a specific one? I do believe at work we carry an aerosol cable lubricant but it’s super sticky and then dries on. Supposed to keep cables good but I’ve never used it before.
There is a specific cable lube. I have no idea whether or not it's actually any better than a general spray lube such as PB Blaster. I'm another vote for the CST829 tires. I just got a couple in for my 250ES Wednesday. Now I'm just waiting on my DWT rims to be made and ship to me so that I can mount them up. I'll have four on these rims so that this way I'll have a spare. I LOVE the way that it rides with these tires on it. I think it's almost like a Cadillac compared to my other trikes.
If you are going to lube the cable get a motion pro cable luber v3. It good and seals really good to the cable and the straw on the spray lube. I used it to lube the hvac cables on one of my old ford truck with out taking the cable out of the truck man what a difference it makes. As for tires get a 2ply tire for a hard tail your back will thank you.
If its on the internet its got to be true they can't put any lie's on the internet
Damn!
That's a really great looking Prairie! I've only ever seen them completely trashed around here.
Thanks for the video. It sounds fantastic too. What a score!
'Hardtails' (no rear suspension) are great trail machines. I had a Honda 200S and I was constantly surprised how capable it was in the trails and climbing near vertical creek banks.
Last edited by ironchop; 07-03-2020 at 10:46 PM.
X2.....from what I see all the stickers seem to be there and it runs fantastic. I am no prairie guy but it looks very clean. You should do a walk around video.
If I get time tomorrow I’ll try to do one. I already sort of screwed up the prairie side decal while cleaning the carb jet. When I hit it with carb cleaner some hit the graphic so I went to wipe it off and smeared it a little bit.
Kicking myself for letting that happen but it is what it is lol it definitely runs great even with a little bit of smoke.
Thanks for the brand recommendation. I had one years ago, but the tool box that it was in got stolen out of the back of my truck in a locked fenced in yard. Then I got a GYTR one from the local Yamaha dealer and it's junk. More lube runs down the outside of the sheath than goes inside with the cable.
It depends on the cable. Some OEM cables, like Honda, have a plastic coating on the cable and I think a liner in the housing, so it's plastic on plastic. For those, I use silicone spray, like CRC. Walmart actually has it on the shelf here, otherwise, at auto parts stores.
https://www.crcindustries.com/produc...-oz-05074.html
For the other common type of cable, that isn't lined and/or the cable isn't coated, any good lubricant will do. Not penetrants though. There are some name brand cable lubes, but really what's happening is you'll be flushing a lot of crud out of old cables and providing them with a protective layer of lube. Most ATV and Motorcycle cables are pretty sloppy in the housing and not sealed on one end or either, so lubing them is more of a cleaning (getting out abrasive dirt).
Lube that clutch cable good and regularly. They really get a workout and a dirty cable is noticeably harder to pull.
Last edited by ATC King; 07-04-2020 at 08:38 AM.
The story of three wheels and a man...
Here’s the walk around video and cold start
https://youtu.be/NGUm9H7MicA