That should work fine, I've ran off the shelf Castrol 10W-30/40 in everything I own and have never had an issue.
That should work fine, I've ran off the shelf Castrol 10W-30/40 in everything I own and have never had an issue.
Trikes
1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
1972/73 US 90 Green
1977 ATC 90 w/83 110 motor (Fugly)
1982 ATC 70
1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
1973 ATC 70
1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain
TF 2015
Other
1983 Honda Z50
1978 Honda XL75
Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-coopool
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...k-for-coolpool
That oil is fine, I used to use it in all my motorcycles. Unless you ride it a lot, you're not going to change it more than once a year anyway. It's good to stick with motorcycle/ATV oil, because you never know what automotive oil with friction modifiers will do to a wet clutch.
If you look, manufacturer brand oil probably isn't any more expensive. If the Kawasaki oil doesn't cost any more, just go with that. Not starting an oil debate, but if the manufacturer stuff isn't any more pricey...why not. Some Honda owners swear by GN4 and they'll poke you in the eye for suggesting anything else belongs in their machine.
The story of three wheels and a man...
The castrol is 9.99 a quart so not too terribly bad. I run gn4 in my little Suzuki 50 I’ve had since I was 4 years old, brand doesn’t matter to me as long as it gets the job done.
The more I look at the older rear tire but more I’m tempted just to tube it. Be cheaper and honestly th e tread isn’t horrible and would last quite a while
A tube will eventually ruin the wheel, possibly to the point where a tubeless tire won't seal again. A tube creates a moisture barrier between it and the wheel, and causes aggressive corrosion.
The story of three wheels and a man...
So looks like I’ve got my work cut out on this other Kawasaki. It’s been neglected for quite a while. These are the pictures I got sent but it looks to be complete and turns over. Needs a tire/lug nuts and new pull rope.
Going to pick it up tomorrow after work. Looks like it’s a 185-200, can’t really tell in the pictures.
Nice project. Based on the looks of the rear axle carrier and the fact that it is chain driven, it looks like a KLT110. I heard they are pretty quick for a 110.
That is indeed a 110, and I have ridden one of those, and it was a blast. My friend did all the testing on that model also, and he said you can wheelie one all day long without it bogging out, and they turn way better than the bigger kawi trikes. They are an automatic but there is also a clutch lever you can use instead when you are in first gear. He said it took him and the japanese engineers 6 weeks straight to get that system to work, and yes, they are fast and will easily blow away a honda 110. I know that because my friend brought his out when we went riding. Also, if you sit back on the seat and shift it at wot, the front wheel comes off the ground. He also said that it is impossible to blow one up because he tried. He said they are even faster with a straight thru muffler and some holes in the air box, but then the carb needs to be rejetted, or you can put on the next size bigger carb. He also said that the shifter keeps coming loose, and if you don't keep it tight, it will strip the splines on the shaft and there are none available. He said to put a long grade 8 bolt in the shifter with a flange nut on the end and keep checking to see if it gets loose. He also said that the boss on the shifter that fits onto the shaft sometimes stretches so that the two ends where it is split will touch which prevents it from being tightened properly, so check for that also. He said it they are touching, you can widen the gap cutting it with a dremel cut off wheel, but you then need to drill the unthreaded hole slightly bigger. I would love to have one of those but they are as rare as hens teeth. They also made a little quad with that same engine.
Last edited by rpeters; 07-28-2020 at 11:02 PM.
Funny thing about the shifter. Not sure what possessed them but for whatever reason they lost the shifter and out a different on on but welded it on backwards.....literally.
So I’m gonna have to grind it off the weld and hope to get it off and try to file the shaft if I can and find another shifter for it
Haven’t had much time to mess with it but it does leak oil from somewhere. I’m having a hell of time getting the pull start spring back in place. I’m hoping to mess with it a little more this weekend.
Still haven’t received the front brake shoes for the 250 so that part is still on hold.
Needless to say this 110 will be a love/hate project lol.
I’m in no hurry to completely have it ready, I’m just wanting to get it running then slowly fix all the problems since it’s been sorely neglected for years.
It is super light weight, it’s nothing to grab the front end and flip it up so I’m not doubting it’s speed or maneuverability.
Here’s what I was taking about with the shifter. I have no idea what in the hell they were thinking but a grinder is in order for that.
Those had a double-ended shift lever that attached in the middle, so you are looking at whats left of it...or the back half. You would think they would have wanted the front half working before the back. Or maybe it broke off after they welded it. Like you said...time for the grinder.
So my friends and I finally got together to do a ride.
We rode for quite a while and it was a blast. The prairie did pretty good minus the front end plowing and having to be on guard for off camber situations.
Did a little better than I thought it would but it was still a rough ride lol.
I will be getting a new front tire and one for the rear sometime soon. Also gonna keep my eye out for an Atc 200 to use for a trail pig but for now I can still trail ride with this one. It kept up pretty good with the ATC 200, Yamaha 225dx and Yamaha ytm 200.
By ATC200 I assume that you mean an ATC200X. Right?