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Thread: Trying to make the best of my mistake: new to me 1984 ATC 200ES

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    --
    2,196
    Quote Originally Posted by VillageIdiot View Post
    Only 80W-90 gear oil I could find in stock at either Oreilly Auto or Autozone was some Lucas but it says it exceeds all GL4 and GL5 specs so I assume it should be fine.
    GL5 is fine. It's speced for hypoid gears, extreme pressure.



    The best thing about the 200ES, along with the shaft drive and reverse, is the low range. I used low range all the time, especially around the house while pulling a trailer. It isn't just about being able to pull more, it makes it that much easier on the trike and when trail riding, I can take off in second if I want.

    I know the 250ES has more power, but it's also 100 pounds heavier and doesn't have a low range. When on steep or rocky trails, the 200ES low range really shines.
    Last edited by ATC King; 07-09-2020 at 09:14 PM.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    --
    2,196
    Quote Originally Posted by bkvette3 View Post
    Just putting mine back together...
    That's just showing off

    Good to see some of those are still in good condition and being taken care of.
    Last edited by ATC King; 07-09-2020 at 09:12 PM.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    WA, USA
    --
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by ATC King View Post
    If you came across and entire 250ES front end, that's probably the better option. Larger diameter fork tubes, and a larger brake are two advantages.
    How much of a 250ES would I need to swap? Where I am there's a lot more "parts only" stuff that I've seen listed on CL and FB than clean & complete bikes.
    1984 Honda ATC 200ES

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Florida
    --
    1,044
    If you want to swap the front end, find a 200x 83/84 only, that would give you disc brakes narrow front wheel and the best shocks of that generation of bike (pre 85)

    But it sounds to me, you may never be happy, it will always be a hard tail, you may need to just sell it, cut your losses and buy what makes you happy. I think the 84's are great but I don't think you will ever get past the mistake/purchase.
    any money you put into it will only add to what you have invested in it, making the purchase that much worse, a front end will run you $200 plus.

    MrC.
    Last edited by MrConcdid; 07-10-2020 at 09:06 AM.
    mrc_builds on YouTube Channel

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmw...confirmation=1


    My Addiction
    85 200m "Tallahassee"
    84 200x "SouthPort"
    84 200x "Van Halen"
    84 250r "lucky"
    85 250sx "Enterprise"
    85 350x "The Money Pit"
    85 350x Code Red
    86 250r "Unicorn"
    86 trx250r
    88 Lt250r Suzuki

    mrc_builds saves trikes like Jimmy Swaggart saved souls back in the day -said Patriot1

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    --
    2,196
    Quote Originally Posted by VillageIdiot View Post
    How much of a 250ES would I need to swap? Where I am there's a lot more "parts only" stuff that I've seen listed on CL and FB than clean & complete bikes.
    How about just seeing what you've got before moving on to a swap.

    You've got a pretty clean looking 200ES, maybe they'll look like the ones bkvette3 had.
    If they look good enough to clean and reassemble and you don't intend to ride in mud or rain, they'll
    be fine for a while longer. The closer to stock that you can keep it, the better it'll hold value. They're only original once.

    If it turns out they are on their last leg, buying a complete 250ES parts machine will very likely be the lowest cost option for a fork swap, because it's all different from the 200ES forks and you'll need everything. Keep the forks, sell the rest on Ebay and make your money back, or more.


    About 8 years ago, I was at a university auction and the agricultural department had a 250ES they sent to surplus, for the auction. It had the university and department name on it, along with a vehicle number. They wouldn't let me start it, so I didn't bid past $500. It looked to be in pretty good condition. I think it sold for $1,500.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
    --
    3,001
    One thing to remember about changing your rear diff oil is to follow the recommended amount to put in (couple of ounces) and don't add it up to bottom of the filler hole as you would think is correct. It'll puke excess oil out the breather tube by the battery if you overfill it and ride for an extended amount of time. Ask me how I know.........!

    I think the biggest pizz off for me on the 200es is the rear brake drum is recessed into the housing and is usually seized in there. And they are prone to intermittent spark issues which is commonly the CDI.

    Blkvette, your 200es front gear is mint!
    Trikes
    1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
    1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
    1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
    1972/73 US 90 Green
    1977 ATC 90 w/83 110 motor (Fugly)
    1982 ATC 70
    1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
    1973 ATC 70

    1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain

    TF 2015

    Other
    1983 Honda Z50
    1978 Honda XL75

    Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-coopool
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...k-for-coolpool

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Florida
    --
    1,044
    I thought (could be wrong) but the 250es bearing set will not fit in the neck of a 200es, the bearing is physically larger. No one has mentioned it here.
    I suggested a 83/84 200x or a 200s front end for that reason. my understanding was all 84 and down use the same neck and bearing and the 85 and up use a larger bearing and components.
    is this not correct?

    MrC.
    mrc_builds on YouTube Channel

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmw...confirmation=1


    My Addiction
    85 200m "Tallahassee"
    84 200x "SouthPort"
    84 200x "Van Halen"
    84 250r "lucky"
    85 250sx "Enterprise"
    85 350x "The Money Pit"
    85 350x Code Red
    86 250r "Unicorn"
    86 trx250r
    88 Lt250r Suzuki

    mrc_builds saves trikes like Jimmy Swaggart saved souls back in the day -said Patriot1

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    WA, USA
    --
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by MrConcdid View Post
    But it sounds to me, you may never be happy, it will always be a hard tail, you may need to just sell it, cut your losses and buy what makes you happy. I think the 84's are great but I don't think you will ever get past the mistake/purchase.
    any money you put into it will only add to what you have invested in it, making the purchase that much worse, a front end will run you $200 plus.
    Sorry if it's coming across that way, that's not how I intend it. It's really just more of a "I know the front suspension will fail at some point, so I want to keep an eye out in case replacement options become available." I have no issue with buying parts today and storing them in the corner of my shop for years until the time I need them comes along.
    Last edited by VillageIdiot; 07-10-2020 at 08:14 PM. Reason: bad typing/spelling
    1984 Honda ATC 200ES

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    WA, USA
    --
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by coolpool View Post
    One thing to remember about changing your rear diff oil is to follow the recommended amount to put in (couple of ounces) and don't add it up to bottom of the filler hole as you would think is correct. It'll puke excess oil out the breather tube by the battery if you overfill it and ride for an extended amount of time. Ask me how I know.........!
    I downloaded a pdf of the 1984 200ES owner's manual and it says 11.8 oz and "make sure the recommended oil is filled up to the lower edge of the inspection hole", which the diagram shows the "inspection hole" is clearly just the filler hole. So in that case it seems to be the same procedure as a car for this model. I ended up doing the gear oil job last night and did it just like a car and pumped in oil until it just started dribbling out the filler hole and closed it back up. Did I do wrong?
    1984 Honda ATC 200ES

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    WA, USA
    --
    10
    I guess I'll use this thread to document my cleanup of this machine and if anyone has any feedback or advice for me as I go along I'd be glad to hear it. All I ever did with trikes was ride them back in my early teens, never worked on them (or any ATV) before, so all I know is based on what I've read on forums like this one or found on Youtube when I was thinking about buying one to try riding again.

    Continuing going through this machine to get it ready to go play. Drained all the gas that it came with out of the tank. Noticed it was pretty orange and had particles floating in it. Tried to get a pic of it that showed the particles but
    they didn't come through at all.

    "Old" gas: https://imgur.com/DZScbUY


    So I stuck my bore scope down in the tank and there's a little bit of rust down there. Not as much as I would have thought based on the color and amount of particulate floating in the gas, but I went ahead and pressure washed the tank and have it soaking in white vinegar now.

    Gas tank scope video: https://youtu.be/k9M9JeFCbkQ


    Got the carburetor out and sitting on the bench ready to clean. Waiting on for my set of carb jet indexed wires from Amazon that should be here tomorrow to tackle that project.




    Quick side note, is the ability to attach images directly to a post on these forums tied to some kind of premium membership? I can't see it at all anywhere when I'm writing a post.
    1984 Honda ATC 200ES

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    --
    2,196
    "...I went ahead and pressure washed the tank and have it soaking in white vinegar now."

    Don't get too carried away with the vinegar. The inside of that tank looks pretty dang good and you don't want to damage or remove any more of the factory coating on the steel. Clean it, fill it up and keep it full when sitting.

    They will all rust in rear bottom corners at some point, but it's sooner for those that let them sit around half filled most of the time. Run that thing on reserve from time to time too, even if it's full. Any water in the bottom needs a chance to escape and the carb has a drain on the float bowl it it's a problem.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    --
    661
    Inside of that tank is mint. As ATC King said "Easy on the vinegar - don't want to damage the factory coating inside the tank. Personally, I would run as is. Just keep the tank full at all times - especially in the winter.
    Presently own:
    1986 Honda atc350X
    1985 Honda atc250r
    1984 Honda 200es Big Red
    1983 Honda atc185s
    1985 Honda atc70
    1975 Honda Z50 mini bike
    OEM Hondaline Utility Trailer (mint condition - as new)
    1989 Honda FL400R Pilot - newly acquired.
    1968 Corvette L36 427/390HP convertible

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Edmond, KS
    --
    2,531
    It's not an easy habit to get into, but I try to fill up my steel tanks when I'm done riding. The up side is that you'll be ready to ride the next time without filling the tank.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    --
    2,196
    I have actually seen tanks people stripped the inside of and didn't line them. I guess they thought the tanks were bare metal on the inside from the factory.


    All of the metal tanks on my trikes have Red Kote. That's after brass brazing the holes. I haven't been fortunate enough to have a non leaking OEM tank.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    WA, USA
    --
    10
    Well you guys were right, of course. In my excitement to get the machine cleaned up and ready to go out riding I've rushed into something I should have avoided completely. The actual inside of the tank looks so much worse now than it did before. I think I've now actually created a problem where one didn't exist, at least my username continues to be spot on accurate.
    1984 Honda ATC 200ES

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