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Thread: Trying to make the best of my mistake: new to me 1984 ATC 200ES

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    --
    2,196
    Do the baking soda treatment then see what it looks like. If you've stripped the factory coating off, you'll have to line it. I use Red Kote, but there are two part epoxy liners as well. Red Kote is a PITA, because it sets by evaporation and takes careful attention to not make too thick or it won't cure. On the other hand, Red Kote can be stripped by pouring acetone in. The epoxies, are not so easily removed.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    WA, USA
    --
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by ATC King View Post
    Do the baking soda treatment then see what it looks like. If you've stripped the factory coating off, you'll have to line it. I use Red Kote, but there are two part epoxy liners as well. Red Kote is a PITA, because it sets by evaporation and takes careful attention to not make too thick or it won't cure. On the other hand, Red Kote can be stripped by pouring acetone in. The epoxies, are not so easily removed.
    Thanks ATC King. Yeah I already did baking soda + distilled water rinse to neutralize the vinegar but the whole tank flash rusted instantly afterwards. Really feel like a fool right now. Watching some Youtube videos about Red Kote and other sealers now.
    1984 Honda ATC 200ES

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    --
    661
    Quote Originally Posted by 350for350 View Post
    It's not an easy habit to get into, but I try to fill up my steel tanks when I'm done riding. The up side is that you'll be ready to ride the next time without filling the tank.
    I agreed with 350for350. I keep all my steel gas tanks filled to the top on all my ATCs' at all times - especially in the winter - condensation is the enemy - no rust problems internally in any of my tanks - OEM coating still intact.

    I have a couple of extra clean, rust free Honda steel gas tanks in storage on the shelf - I put a couple of bottles of "cheap" 2 stroke oil inside for protection. Every once in a while - I give the tank a shake to distribute the oil around. Works well for me.
    Last edited by bkvette3; 07-12-2020 at 08:04 AM.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
    --
    3,001
    Quote Originally Posted by VillageIdiot View Post
    I downloaded a pdf of the 1984 200ES owner's manual and it says 11.8 oz and "make sure the recommended oil is filled up to the lower edge of the inspection hole", which the diagram shows the "inspection hole" is clearly just the filler hole. So in that case it seems to be the same procedure as a car for this model. I ended up doing the gear oil job last night and did it just like a car and pumped in oil until it just started dribbling out the filler hole and closed it back up. Did I do wrong?
    Hmmm interesting, maybe I'm doing something wrong? I'll have to snoop around on mine and see what's up.
    Trikes
    1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
    1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
    1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
    1972/73 US 90 Green
    1977 ATC 90 w/83 110 motor (Fugly)
    1982 ATC 70
    1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
    1973 ATC 70

    1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain

    TF 2015

    Other
    1983 Honda Z50
    1978 Honda XL75

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  5. #35
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    MN
    --
    3,260
    For the tank, clean out the flash rust with a quick treatment of vinegar again, then drain it, spray some WD40 around inside, blow it out with compressed air or just drain out the excess WD40 and then immediately FILL IT with gas. Keep the tank topped off as others have mentioned. You let it sit for weeks or months half empty or less and you will get rust. But otherwise don't worry about it. Don't bother sealing or coating it, i know others will disagree but don't bother... That crap sucks... I have had so many tanks that were sealed and they flake off and plug the filter or fill the petcock with crap. I have an ATC90 that was rusty inside when i got it, i soaked with apple cider vinegar for 3 days, dumped it, it was nice bare metal, sprayed with WD40 to help get the water out, filled with fresh gas, waited a day, turned it on to reserve and drained a quart or so out to get any water that settled to the bottom, had a few drops that i missed, then tossed it back on the trike. It's been fine for years now, i forget what year i rebuilt that, the thread was on here, i'm pretty sure its been longer then five years now... That tank is still completely rust free, never been sealed or coated or any of that BS.

    As for the rear end lube on the 200ES, i just did mine this spring, i generally change the rear end every year or so, depends on how much i have been using it. I do as the manual suggests, drain it, fill it until it dribbles out the fill hole, and call it good, just like a rear end fill on car.

    coolpool if your getting oil puking out the breather tube my suggestion would be take the breather tube off, run a piece of wire through it and some hot water or just replace it. Mine did that when i first got it. The breather tube had some dirt in it and was partially plugged, causing it to kinda BURP when things heated up and it couldn't breath freely, it would suck in some air and puke out some oil with the pressure change. I cleaned out the breather tube and it stopped doing that. Only a few ounces of oil in the rear end isn't really enough to lubricate it properly. It does take almost 12oz like the manual suggests.
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    1984 Honda ATC200ES "Big Red"
    1982 ATC200E "Hondie"
    1988 TRX300FW "Project Quad" Still in progress....

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