//ArrowChat Code
Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 47

Thread: 1985 Honda Atc 200m

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    ohio
    --
    76

    1985 Honda Atc 200m

    So I came across this ad while I was at work. $200 1985 Honda Atc 200m, been sitting for a long time, not running currently.

    I thought holy crap I gotta try and get it before someone else does!!

    Messaged the guy with no reply. Found out he was someone’s dad that I vaguely knew but my brother in law knew well so he got his phone number and I called.

    He said yes I still have it but another guy messaged first and asked if I would hold it for $300 so I’m gonna hold it until he gets off work.

    I said well when is he supposed to come out? He says well idk but I’m gonna hold it until 6, if he doesn’t show by then you can come on out.

    So 6pm rolls around and I decide to call him. Guy says he messaged me and said he had to work over until 7:30 and I told him I talked to you and you could get here before then so he backed out.

    It’s a little rough, rear tires are great, front is trashed. Needs a seat cover and a muffler. I started by taking the tank off and draining what bad gas was left in it.

    Took the carb off and the jets out and sprayed them all out and slapped it back together and began pulling.....

    I did about 15 pulls before I heard it fire....i thought holy it’s gonna run!!! So I kept pulling, hit the compression release, fire...die...

    Pull some more.... by this time I’m standing up with my hand on the throttle and pull the rope again and she fired up so I hit the gas and it stays running!!! Man I never felt so giddy when it stayed running and reving!!

    Got a new tire coming eventually. Rear brakes are good, just gotta find a brake lever and tear apart the front as the front is tight and does nothing.

    Took a little less elbow grease than I thought it would for it to fire up. He said he was trying to remember how long it’s been since it ran and he said he thinks it’s been almost 10 years.


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    --
    2,196
    Glad you got it. Congrats!

    It's going to need a battery, and you should put one on before riding it, so the voltage regulator/rectifier isn't damaged. A battery does more than store energy, it's like a shock absorber for the charging system.

    With all the battery choices available today, I'd go with something that won't potentially leak acid like the standard flooded batteries can that must have a vent tube on them. When they get hot, they will vent, and if the tube isn't on or it doesn't terminate below the frame, it's just inviting rust and eventual frame damage.

    AGM batteries are typically slightly heavier than stock, but not much more expensive. I wouldn't bother with gel batteries for this application. Lithium type batteries are much more expensive, but much, much lighter and will be smaller for the same power. They perform poorly in cold temperatures until warmed up, which is their biggest problem for starting engines, but they do hold a charge much longer than the other technologies and have a higher resting voltage.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  3. #3
    jasong_10's Avatar
    jasong_10 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Croghan, New York
    --
    420
    Nice find, I saw what I think was one of the 200 variants on the back of a pickup with a for sale sign on it a couple of nights ago on my way home from work. It was right up the street from my house and looked like it had been restored so I thought about checking it out but once I got home the thought left, haha. It's funny thinking back to when I was a kid, I learned on a '79 110, an uncle had a pair of 200s', and another uncle a really nice '86 250sx, and those were just the ones I had access to, I'm sure there were more in the family. Now they highly sought after restoration projects.
    Jason

    85 ATC 250R - restored stock other than 18" rears, nerf bars, Honda key switch, 14T front sprocket, and white tank and plastics (except rad shrouds)

    87 ATC 200X - restored stock other than 18" rears and nerf bars

    84 TRX 200 - rough but complete budget restore for wife and eventually daughters to bum around on

    Eton Viper 50cc - oldest daughter's current ride

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    ohio
    --
    76
    I will look into batteries tomorrow, I’m going to have a set of tires from my brother in-law who just picked up a big red but doesn’t like the rear tires so I will have one for the front when he gets his new ones out on.

    Friend of mine said he had a stock 200x muffler that might work so I’m going to try and get that to put on it. Didn’t seem to smoke thst I could tell but it was dark by the time I got it running.

    I didn’t smell any oil burning so I guess that’s a plus. I checked the oil before I started it so I know it had the right amount of oil in it. For sure needs a oil change.

    Inside of the tank was surprisingly clean, hardly any tarnish/rust at all. Cap needs a good scrub on the inside but at least it has the original tank as I know those are pricey to come by in good shape.

    I do need to get some crankcase breather tubes as the ones on it are brittle and falling apart. Throttle is pretty tough/sticks so I may end up getting a new throttle cable(maybe a twist throttle as I like then better than thing throttle).

    Needs a headlight and a key switch since they must’ve lost the key ages ago and just wired it direct so it’ll start without the key.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    --
    2,196
    Hose that cap vent down with some WD-40 (or similar). Make sure it's venting.

    I've had some that weren't, but worked fine after copious amounts of lubricant. Seems to happen to that style cap that sits for years. That'll possibly save you some troubleshooting later on.

    Oh, and the cap gaskets are still available new. I keep some on hand. No reason to have a leaky cap, especially if it's upside down.

    Just checking out a couple batteries.
    The Yuasa https://www.yuasabatteries.com/battery/yb14a-a2/
    Made in USA, 7.9lbs, 190 CCA

    Duralast Gold (Deka) https://www.autozone.com/miscellaneo...archText=etx15
    Made in USA, 11lbs, 220 CCA

    Yuasa is a conventional flooded. The Duralast is AGM, it's also sold under several different names, but all the same battery.
    https://www.eastpennmanufacturing.co.../power-sports/
    https://www.eastpennmanufacturing.co...Flyer-0278.pdf
    https://www.eastpennmanufacturing.co...Flyer-1738.pdf
    https://www.batterymart.com/p-Big-Cr...5-Battery.html

    I've been using the Duralast AGM on my 200ES for a few years now. It's still working good. Mine was in stock at the local AutoZone. They have very beefy posts with a easy to use bolt, instead of having to try and hold the nut on the backside and get the bolts started, like on the Yuasa.
    Last edited by ATC King; 08-21-2020 at 09:57 AM.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    ohio
    --
    76
    Quote Originally Posted by ATC King View Post
    Hose that cap vent down with some WD-40 (or similar). Make sure it's venting.

    I've had some that weren't, but worked fine after copious amounts of lubricant. Seems to happen to that style cap that sits for years. That'll possibly save you some troubleshooting later on.

    Oh, and the cap gaskets are still available new. I keep some on hand. No reason to have a leaky cap, especially if it's upside down.

    Just checking out a couple batteries.
    The Yuasa https://www.yuasabatteries.com/battery/yb14a-a2/
    Made in USA, 7.9lbs, 190 CCA

    Duralast Gold (Deka) https://www.autozone.com/miscellaneo...archText=etx15
    Made in USA, 11lbs, 220 CCA

    Yuasa is a conventional flooded. The Duralast is AGM, it's also sold under several different names, but all the same battery.
    https://www.eastpennmanufacturing.co.../power-sports/
    https://www.eastpennmanufacturing.co...Flyer-0278.pdf
    https://www.eastpennmanufacturing.co...Flyer-1738.pdf
    https://www.batterymart.com/p-Big-Cr...5-Battery.html

    I've been using the Duralast AGM on my 200ES for a few years now. It's still working good. Mine was in stock at the local AutoZone. They have very beefy posts with a easy to use bolt, instead of having to try and hold the nut on the backside and get the bolts started, like on the Yuasa.
    Thanks for the links, I will check the autozone one. My local actually has one in stock currently.

    I wondered about the gasket, the one in the cap is a little dry but I don’t have a full tank of gas in it yet.

    The bolt that usually holds down the rear of the tank appears to be snapped off so I gotta figure out what I’m gonna do to remedy that be it cutting and drilling then welding a new nut on the underside to fix it or what.

    Is the tank also supposed to have rubber pieces for the front that slide onto the studs or whatever they are called on the frame? If so I need to find those as well.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    --
    2,196
    Once the fuel cap gaskets start getting a lot of cracks around the edges, they'll probably leak, at least a little bit, with a full tank. Just old and hard by that point and don't seal like they're supposed to.

    I think that fuel tank bolt goes all the way through the frame. If so, I'd start by drilling it out with a small enough bit to avoid getting into the threads. It may turn out as you drill. I'm not so sure it has enough meat to put a Helicoil in, so tacking a nut on the back side may be you're best option if you can't save the threads.

    Yes, there are supposed to be rubber mounts on the frame posts that hold the front of the tank. They're still available new. CUSHION, FR. TANK
    17611-437-000

    There's supposed to be a rubber pad at the rear too. RUBBER, RR. TANK
    17509-437-000 It's not available through Honda anymore. NOS or used are you're options. Maybe some other part number that's still available will work. It really needs that. You don't want the tank just vibrating around on the frame. Those tend to be missing on the Hondas. I think you can come up with something home brew if wanted. It's much easier than doing that for a ATC110, which those rear tanks pads are more substantial.


    Are you going to get a seat cover that matches the decal on the front fender?
    Last edited by ATC King; 08-21-2020 at 11:26 AM.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    ohio
    --
    76
    Quote Originally Posted by ATC King View Post
    Once the fuel cap gaskets start getting a lot of cracks around the edges, they'll probably leak, at least a little bit, with a full tank. Just old and hard by that point and don't seal like they're supposed to.

    I think that fuel tank bolt goes all the way through the frame. If so, I'd start by drilling it out with a small enough bit to avoid getting into the threads. It may turn out as you drill. I'm not so sure it has enough meat to put a Helicoil in, so tacking a nut on the back side may be you're best option if you can't save the threads.

    Yes, there are supposed to be rubber mounts on the frame posts that hold the front of the tank. They're still available new. CUSHION, FR. TANK
    17611-437-000

    There's supposed to be a rubber pad at the rear too. RUBBER, RR. TANK
    17509-437-000 It's not available through Honda anymore. NOS or used are you're options. Maybe some other part number that's still available will work. It really needs that. You don't want the tank just vibrating around on the frame. Those tend to be missing on the Hondas. I think you can come up with something home brew if wanted. It's much easier than doing that for a ATC110, which those rear tanks pads are more substantial.


    Are you going to get a seat cover that matches the decal on the front fender?
    Ha I forgot it even had that decal on it. No probably not. I’ll just get ahold of a friend of mine that got a seat cover for his 200x and ask where he got it. His is just some generic blue/red cover.

    It does still have the rear rubber just not the front 2 from what I can tell.

    So I went and got a battery so it has juice. The start button no longer works but they’ve added a push button to use so I gave that a try.

    I’m trying to figure out if the starter is just locked up or if it’s the solenoid. I can get clicks from behind the battery. I tap on the box a few times and try again and just clicks.

    I’ve considered removing the starter but I’ve never taken one off before. There aren’t any little pieces that are gonna go flying if I unbolt it is there and slide it out is there?

    I’m assuming it’s solenoid related but I can’t be for certain since I’m at least hearing a clicking coming from there.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    ohio
    --
    76
    Well after some thought and tapping I ended up hitting the button while tapping on the bendix side of the starter and it took off. Must’ve just been stuck from sitting.

    Fires up and now idles, has a little sputter to it when trying to ease on the throttle, probably still a little bit of old gas/dirt in the tank or carb.

    Once I get a new tire on the front I’m gonna put it through the paces to maybe try and get it cleaned out. It does not smoke which surprises me from how it looks.

    Glad to have electric start so I don’t have to pull start it every time lol. I do need to get a muffler.

    It’s extremely loud without one. I did manage to see if it would go into gear so I went slow (front tire won’t hold a lick of air) and it moved 20 feet or so no problem so I know the gears are good.

    I found the broken off piece of the left side fender in the toolbox. May just pop river it back on at some point.

    Tried multiple times shutting it off then starting it. Fired up each time no problem. Not trying to make it a looker, just a backup runner when I don’t feel like riding the kaw.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    --
    2,196
    There's no bendix on the starter, it's always engaged, and uses a one way bearing on the crankshaft.

    If you ever think you'll have to take the starter out, there is just one O-ring where it goes into the case. You should have one of those on hand before pulling it. It'll most likely not seal back up and leak a little oil if you don't replace it after removing the starter. The old, hard O-ring can also make getting the starter out a little tough.

    They used to sell aftermarket brush kits for those starters. That's typically what goes out in them, if you ever have a problem with it.


    There used to be an aftermarket muffler available by the name Kimplex. I think they are the same muffler, but just changed the name to MBRP. No more expensive than what people are charging for good, used OE mufflers, and sometimes, less.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/MBRP-Black-...4AAOSwAmNfL89L
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	s-l1600.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	87.1 KB 
ID:	264048
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    ohio
    --
    76
    So I’ve also found that the crankcase breather tubes need replaced. Where exactly to they all run? I know one just runs back and has an end on it keep water and mud out but where does the other go? Into the air box?

    When I was taking the carb off both pieces fell off so I have no idea where they actually need to be routed. I just know the hose comes off the case into a T then one went back towards the rear of the frame beside the air box.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    --
    2,196
    You've got the general idea of the crankcase vent routing. From the case, to a T, one larger hose goes down and has a duckbill type valve on the bottom, and the other small hose goes up to the rear frame rail and runs back for a length.

    It's important to keep both hoses, the lower and upper. There is but one vent on these engines, so, fresh air cannot purge the crankcase vapors like on automobiles with a PCV system.

    On the ATC, the lower hose allows heavier elements that wouldn't make it all the way out of the vent, to fall into the lower hose (why it's larger), while the upper hose does all the venting and is long enough to prevent things from traveling back into the engine during crankcase pulses, which happen every time the piston moves up and down. That valve on the end does prevent water from entering, but it also lets that goop drain out.

    I know a lot of people just stick a length of hose with a filter on the end, but that really isn't proper. It needs that larger, lower hose close to the engine to allow the heavier elements to fall out of vapors, which keeps the engine cleaner. The only reason these engines stay as clean as they do without a PCV system is the temperature that air cooled engines run at. Old car engines that just had blowby tubes would form sludge, in large part due to the cooler temperatures that liquid cooled engines operate at and not having an adequate crankcase ventilation system, while the old formula oils and leaded gas didn't help either.

    If you want some type of filter on the end, aquarium intake filters work well. They don't have any metal in the construction, so they'll conform to wherever you want to shove them. You can also get a bag of them and just change out when dirty. I use them as a little extra protection. Just put one over the vent tube and zip tie it on, bam, done.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-L-Size-B...oAAOSwHX9dw3if

    I have actually seen on someone's machine, where the previous owner had removed everything except the lower hose with the duckbill type rubber valve, and plugged the other end of the T. The new owner couldn't figure out why it was making a farting noise when he shut the engine off. It was pretty funny.
    Last edited by ATC King; 08-22-2020 at 01:31 PM.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    ohio
    --
    76
    So is it worth rebuilding the carb or would it be better to get a new one off eBay for $20?

    Friends of mine have used the ebay ones with no issue

  14. #14
    BarnBoy is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Oklahoma
    --
    731
    Quote Originally Posted by AbsoluteZer0 View Post
    So is it worth rebuilding the carb or would it be better to get a new one off eBay for $20?

    Friends of mine have used the ebay ones with no issue
    Usually rebuilding the OEM is the better option IMO.
    1984 HONDA ATC200M - OG, mid-restoration
    1981 HONDA ATC200 - future build
    1981 HONDA ATC185S - parts
    1984 ATC200X - roller, future build
    1984 Honda ATC250r - in a million pieces- ISO grab bar, PM if you have one

    Da velder
    _______________________________________________
    Feedback:
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-Barnboy

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    --
    2,196
    Yep. Go for the OE rebuild if the carb isn't damaged.

    A lot of people go with Shindy or Keyster carb kits.
    Keyster: http://www.keyster.ca/
    Shindy: https://www.shindypro.com/

    Going with a non name kit from Ebay or Amazon, you may end up with some wrong size jets.


    The Chinese carb I just put on my YTM is really nice, but the jets it came with were WAY off.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

//ArrowChat Integreation Code //