Let me start with this, anyone who you talk to who says the 140’s will bolt right into a 110 is a liar. I started out under that assumption and boy was I wrong, here is where I’m at so far...(I didn’t take as many pictures as I should have)
So, the kit I ordered was from TBoltUSA. This was on the piranha 140cc engine kit which includes wiring harness, kill switch, clutch cable, engine, Mikuni 22mm carb, intake manifold, kick start, shifter, ignition coil. They do NOT send any instructions with the kit itself, however TBoltUSA has a very good FAQ and how-to section on website for getting started. That aside, let’s start with the actual stock atc.
I’m not going to go into very much detailed about removing the factory engine. It’s pretty simple and can easily have it out in about 15-20 min with the correct tools. As a heads up, look at the rear sprocket. If you are not aware, these use the 428 pitch sprockets(I was not). Now that you have motor out, rear seat and plastics off, fuel tank removed, you can start the fun stuff
I should have taken pictures of the grind work prior to installing engine but I was working with a small time frame to get it installed so I tried to move quick. These pictures give you the general idea of how far you need to cut back. In order for the piranha engine to mount to the rear motor mount, you will have to trim almost completely to the mounting hole itself. Even at this point it is just squeezing in there.
If you noticed I didn’t clean the old gunk off the side of frame, i used it was drawing paper and was able to draw my cut that I need to make
You will need to go back this far on both sides. The passenger side/right side does not have the same amount of material on it and will requiring less cutting but to the same extent.
Once I had both sides trimmed, I was able to put a bolt through the rear motor mount and realized the top motor mount is no where close to lining up with the factory spot for the Honda engine, while at the same time I looked at the angle of engine and realized even if I could make it work, there would be no room for the intake manifold and the carb. This is where I decided to make some hangers/lowering mounts.
These are rough cut for the moment. I’m working with a local company to make nice rounded ones with the correct offsets. Both were the same length but with different measurements for offsets. I used 1/4 flat iron. On the drivers side, I mounted the hanger directly on the outside of both the engine and the frame, this set my offset for the sprocket and made sure it was lined up with the rear sprocket and tensioner. On the passenger side, I made the hanger go inside of the frame and outside of the engine. This made it both a hanger, and a spacer for the offset which worked great. Now the engine was sitting in the frame firmly and was a level that allowed the carb and manifold to just barely squeeze around the frame.
I am still working on making a bracket that will anchor the front head of the engine to the front portion of the frame(like the factory one did) but so far have not made a setup that I like yet. I’ve talked with some 140 swapped 70 guys and they don’t even run a front hanger however possibly different style frames
Now that the engine is in the frame, we can start doing easy stuff. A lot of people told me the stock Honda throttle cable would not work with setup however the cable reached fine and operates fantastic. No problems what so ever and get full 100% throttle.
I opted for the full manual version of this engine so I removed the brake cable from the front brake perch and replaced cable with the clutch cable included with the engine(length was for a pitbike but worked great for the atc). I’ve ordered a new perch to relocated the hand brake to the right side handlebars. I will he removing the foot rake lever in order for my new foot pegs to have plenty of room.
Besides that, little things like the wiring harness can be ran just about anyway you want to, I tucked most of mine in the original bend clips and under the fuel tank. I wanted to make the factory kill switch work but without cutting it up I couldn’t so I just used the included hold kill switch(cheap but will work for now.
The exhaust is a whole other venture. I’m not sure the setup or route I’m going to go with it quite yet. There are a few sites that offer new pipes for the 70 swaps but those most likely won’t work with the 110 frame. I’m hoping to work with a local exhaust stop and make a custom pipe that lines up perfectly with everything(most likely a over engine style so I don’t lose ground clearance) Pay no attention to the crazy exhaust on it now, this is purely for running engine and break in.
The internet will tell you that the 125/140/160 engines will come with the 428 pitch sprockets but they almost always ship with a 15/16t 420 sprocket. Don’t trust them and order the sprocket ahead of time unlike me!
I have new plastics, 400ex hubs, aluminum offset wheels and new tires coming for it. Hopefully this will make her looks a little cleaner and widen it out a bit. Once I have everything I’m functional order, I intend on stripping it down and repainting everything the correct way. I’m also looking for a different set of front forks so that I can have suspension but no one local has anything here. Feel free to ask questions or provide useful ideas. I’ll update this as often as I throw new parts on.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by coolpool
