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Thread: 1984 200ES No Spark need LOTS of help

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    Pasadena, NL
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    1

    1984 200ES No Spark need LOTS of help

    Hey there everyone, How's it going.

    I'm in a bit of a situation with my 200ES and here's how it goes.
    Up until a few years ago the bike worked immaculate. it's in amazing shape and the engine has low hours ( it was originally purchased by my late grandfather). Few years ago there was an electrical issue when my old man had the bike and he could never get it fixed.

    Fast forward to now the bike sitting in my shed.
    The ignition coil was gone. - Replaced it.
    Ignition Key didn't have any continuity - Replaced it.
    The stator is getting 260 OHMS,
    The CDI Magneto is getting 28 OHMS.
    The CDI Module isn't getting no reading on a multi meter but to be quite frank that could be on my part as i'm amateur level with a multi meter lol.

    If the CDI module is gone will a 200S module fit it ? Link below for reference of what i'm looking at

    https://www.amazon.ca/High-Performan...BGRJWQHAKYKFYD

    Is there anything else besides the above that could cause me to not have fire? Do i need the regulator ETC all connected and the kill switch in order to get fire?
    Or do i just need the Ignition coil, Ignition key, stator, CDI magneto and CDI module?
    Also can i bypass the key by connecting the 2 leads for the key together to make a closed circuit so i have 1 less thing to worry about?
    Just need to achieve fire now and the rest is golden. The bike was totally scrapped repainted and slowly assembled now i'm just trying to get some fire so i can continue with the full rebuild.

    Thanks in advance to anyone that can help this poor sucker

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    MN
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    3,260
    The CDI is not really testable with a multi-meter, see my posts on here about repairing and testing CDI modules, as well as recently i posted about building a CDI tester and building CDI units from scratch now.

    That CDI module you linked to mentions advance timing etc.. The 200ES CDI is a straight CDI, no internal electrical timing advance, its just the mechanical advance on the camshaft that adjusts the ignition timing. As for a ready to use unit, your better off doing the age old modification to the 200ES that involves removing the round CDI connector and replacing it with the more common rectangular connector then you can replace it with any old 5 pin CDI module. See here..

    http://dratv.com/cdiunatseeap.html

    Its a lot cheaper then the one you linked to as well, a $20 CDI unit and a $5.49 connector and your up and going. The CDI dying on these is so common that it was a common discussion on here for a while. My 200ES went through the same issues which drove me to really getting into the CDI units, how they work, and reverse engineer them.

    As for the ignition switch, you can completely unplug it and it will run! The ignition switch on these does two things... In the off position is grounds the kill wire, in the run position it ungrounds the kill wire and connects the 12v DC from the battery to the light switch. Without the ignition switch connected at all you will have spark, you just won't have lights. Connecting the two wires together actually shorts out the kill wire and you won't have spark! Its opposite of what you think. Back in the days when i used to find and revive a lot of these if it didn't have keys i would just unplug the ignition switch to get it running.

    You don't need any of the DC side working for spark, the alternator stator, the rectifier/regulator, and battery can all be missing and they will still run. All you need is a good ignition exciter/stator output, a good pulse gen on the cam, and a good CDI and ignition coil. And most likely your CDI unit is bad.

    The excitor/stator should be 100-400 ohms, your 260 seems completely normal. The pulse gen, if thats what your referring to as the CDI magneto, seems a little low, they generally sit around 100 ohms, but i would replace the CDI and see what happens. Also put a test light or voltmeter on the Black/Red wire coming from the excitor/stator and crank it over, if all you have is the pull start working a test light would be best so you can see the light flicker, you will only get really quick pulses of AC on a digital voltmeter. You can also test the pulse gen the same way, put the test light on Blue wire and ground lead on the green, disconnect it from the wiring harness so its just connected to the test light, you should see pulses from it as well when cranking.

    Again i bet on the CDI, since thats the most common issue.
    ---------------------------------------------------------
    1984 Honda ATC200ES "Big Red"
    1982 ATC200E "Hondie"
    1988 TRX300FW "Project Quad" Still in progress....

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