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Thread: My 1952 M38CDN Refurb - This will Take Awhile!

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
    --
    3,001
    Hi roostin, I've definitely decided to go the sand blasting route....... but as you say, great care must be taken to ensure the right media is used and the pressure is turned down as to not warp the tin with too much heat build up. Hard to believe this has been going on almost a year now.
    Trikes
    1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
    1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
    1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
    1972/73 US 90 Green
    1977 ATC 90 w/83 110 motor (Fugly)
    1982 ATC 70
    1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
    1973 ATC 70

    1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain

    TF 2015

    Other
    1983 Honda Z50
    1978 Honda XL75

    Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-coopool
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...k-for-coolpool

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
    --
    3,001
    Blasting is complete...now it's time to get to work. Not too bad of shape overall, thankfully. I don't like all the braze repairs as I'm going to have to grind them out and replace with welds. I included a picture of 2 x 3/8" holes that were not supposed to be there that I filled in last night, not too bad if I say so myself
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Two holes weld filledr.jpg   Jeep Parts Preppedr.jpg   Jeep on Rotisserie.jpg  
    Trikes
    1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
    1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
    1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
    1972/73 US 90 Green
    1977 ATC 90 w/83 110 motor (Fugly)
    1982 ATC 70
    1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
    1973 ATC 70

    1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain

    TF 2015

    Other
    1983 Honda Z50
    1978 Honda XL75

    Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-coopool
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...k-for-coolpool

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
    --
    3,001
    I've started welding up holes, dealing with dents and applying color to some of the bigger pieces that were previously sand blasted. I'm fairly happy with the results although the hood kicked my butt a bit causing me to sand and paint 3 times. You can see in one picture I ended up with some dry spots which were unacceptable. I had to go to Cloverdale in Lloydminster (~2 hours away) to get a new gallon of paint and was shocked to find even though the codes are the same and the dot on top looks good, the paint obviously isn't correct even after drying. Guess I'm going back next weekend, argh!

    The tailgate is definitely going to be a challenge with the amount of repairs needed. I cut off an unexplained extra tab that was welded on the tailgate which has a match on the tub also. I intend to weld up as much as I can with bondo used sparingly. I'm looking for suggestions on how to deal with the formerly brazed holes which will hamper welding where they need filling. Metal filler maybe?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Hood 1r.jpg   Paint 1r.jpg   Hood 2.jpg   Paint 2.jpg   Painted Parts.jpg   Tailgate 1r.jpg  

    Tailgate 2r.jpg   Tailgate 3.jpg   Tailgate 4.jpg   Tailgate 5r.jpg  
    Trikes
    1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
    1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
    1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
    1972/73 US 90 Green
    1977 ATC 90 w/83 110 motor (Fugly)
    1982 ATC 70
    1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
    1973 ATC 70

    1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain

    TF 2015

    Other
    1983 Honda Z50
    1978 Honda XL75

    Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-coopool
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...k-for-coolpool

  4. #34
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    --
    1,735
    Man...I can't wait to see this finished!.... looking good!

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mexico
    --
    9,001
    Quote Originally Posted by coolpool View Post
    I've started welding up holes, dealing with dents and applying color to some of the bigger pieces that were previously sand blasted. I'm fairly happy with the results although the hood kicked my butt a bit causing me to sand and paint 3 times. You can see in one picture I ended up with some dry spots which were unacceptable. I had to go to Cloverdale in Lloydminster (~2 hours away) to get a new gallon of paint and was shocked to find even though the codes are the same and the dot on top looks good, the paint obviously isn't correct even after drying. Guess I'm going back next weekend, argh!

    The tailgate is definitely going to be a challenge with the amount of repairs needed. I cut off an unexplained extra tab that was welded on the tailgate which has a match on the tub also. I intend to weld up as much as I can with bondo used sparingly. I'm looking for suggestions on how to deal with the formerly brazed holes which will hamper welding where they need filling. Metal filler maybe?
    Looking good buddy, sorry to hear about the paint mixup. Make sure to take a sample piece with you when you drive back to sort it out.

    The tailgate is pretty nasty. Particularly if you are going for a concourse quality restoration.

    Is there any chance that you could cut that rusty lower molding off and have somebody bend you up a new piece?

    It will be a lot easier to repair your holes if you could tear it all apart get behind the panels and put some sheet metal backing behind the holes before you weld them. As far as the existing brass goes, if there is access from the back, I would drill and die grind the brass out and then patch them from the back and weld them up.

    You’re going to get some warpage when you’re welding all these holes up, so you’ll have to do some ing and absolutely some Bondo work unless you want to spend the rest of your life grinding and ing on it.

    If there’s no way to get the thing apart and you’re willing to cheat a little, fiber glass is a great filler and it won’t shrink as much as Bondo. Just stuff the holes till you can’t get anymore in and then grind it to shape and finish with Bondo. You don’t want to prime and paint directly over the fiberglass, make sure that you cover all fiberglass work with a thin layer of Bondo. It should outlive you, but maybe not the next owner.

    Couple other things to keep in mind; one is that back in the old days they always told us to apply the Bondo to bare ground metal. Unfortunately the bare metal eventually rusted and that detached the Bondo from the steel. I like to lightly prime the bare metal and then apply the filler. Read up on it, or talk to the guys who sell the Bondo, I’ve been out of this game a long time.

    There are also chemicals out there that you can brush onto that old metal that will create a barrier to prevent rust from forming again. It may be possible to apply Bondo and fiberglass directly over it. Sorry I don’t have the name right now, but if you look around on the Internet you’ll find it

    The other thing is that if that gate didn’t originally come with drain holes, you should put some in. Drain holes are an added expense in the manufacturing process and unfortunately the lack of them has caused a lot of unnecessary corrosion over the years. Getting moisture trapped in an area with Bondo will cause bubbling and eventually detachment.



    I don’t suppose anybody sells a re-pop of those? That would absolutely be my first choice.
    It sucks to get old

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
    --
    3,001
    Thanks for all the tips and tricks bud! This is definitely not a concourse resto.....more of a DIY effort and a first for me using a spray gun paint system. Most folks who restore military vehicles grossly over-restore them to a point where they never were even from new. This thing is covered in spot weld divots and small dents and light scratches from being in service......I'm good with that and will call it "patina", lol. The metal on this is so thick that I haven't experienced any warpage whatsoever and have welded quite a few holes already. It's going to pain me to drill out the bronze but it's definitely what needs to be done. I'll cut some circle patches with a hole saw for welding in. A re-pop tailgate is available from the Philippines for a couple of hundred and I could go that way someday as they are easy to replace. I'll give this one a shot at repairing first. This will thing will rarely see rain and spends it's life in a heated shop so further rust issues shouldn't be an issue as long as I own it. Surprisingly with it being so dry here the body parts that were blasted in early September show zero signs of surface rust 2 months later.

    The paint place is more than happy to make the correction as this was the 3rd gallon I've bought with the first two being correct. I can always find an excuse to go to Lloydminster to visit Princess Auto (Harbor Freight equivalent) and Home Depot....and as an added bonus, I need to pick up some deer heads that are done at the taxidermist.
    Trikes
    1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
    1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
    1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
    1972/73 US 90 Green
    1977 ATC 90 w/83 110 motor (Fugly)
    1982 ATC 70
    1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
    1973 ATC 70

    1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain

    TF 2015

    Other
    1983 Honda Z50
    1978 Honda XL75

    Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-coopool
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...k-for-coolpool

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mexico
    --
    9,001
    If you’re not too worried about how it turns out, you might consider JB Weld for filling in some of the defects rather than grinding out that brass. I’ve never heard of anybody else using JB Weld for body repair, but I’ve done it a few times. Not something you’d want to use in bulk, but if you’ve got a few scratches around that brass and want avoid welding it I would use JB Weld, and then a flap disc grinding wheel to flatten it out.

    Another amazing tool for these repairs is non-sanding filler primer, or whatever they call it up there. It’s basically a really heavy primer that fills in small defects rather than using glazing putty which I hate and if you apply it properly it lays out smooth and just needs a light scuff before you paint. It’s the only thing I prime with now.
    It sucks to get old

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
    --
    3,001
    JB Weld....hmmm, great idea! I was also thinking of Devcon Plastic Steel which although is expensive is actually machinable when hardened.
    Trikes
    1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
    1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
    1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
    1972/73 US 90 Green
    1977 ATC 90 w/83 110 motor (Fugly)
    1982 ATC 70
    1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
    1973 ATC 70

    1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain

    TF 2015

    Other
    1983 Honda Z50
    1978 Honda XL75

    Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-coopool
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...k-for-coolpool

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
    --
    3,001
    Picking away at this still. Got the tailgate fixed up and painted as well as the battery box and steering box/column. As you can see there's some work to the tub to do which is where I'll spend the next month on. The area on the floor with the rust holes still has thicker metal left than a new vehicle I'm guessing, lol. Not in bad shape for being almost 70 years old I'd say!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Battery box and steering box.jpg   Tailgate 1.jpg   Tub 1.jpg   Tub 2.jpg   Tub 3.jpg   Tub 5.jpg  

    Trikes
    1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
    1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
    1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
    1972/73 US 90 Green
    1977 ATC 90 w/83 110 motor (Fugly)
    1982 ATC 70
    1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
    1973 ATC 70

    1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain

    TF 2015

    Other
    1983 Honda Z50
    1978 Honda XL75

    Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-coopool
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...k-for-coolpool

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mexico
    --
    9,001
    I hope your shop is nice and warm during all this
    It sucks to get old

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
    --
    3,001
    Oh ya, I spoiled myself with a heated floor when I built. Hit -36C (-33F) the other morning so at least I don't have conflicting interests to distract me from working on this now. Not too many outside fires with beer these days I'm afraid, lol.
    Trikes
    1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
    1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
    1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
    1972/73 US 90 Green
    1977 ATC 90 w/83 110 motor (Fugly)
    1982 ATC 70
    1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
    1973 ATC 70

    1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain

    TF 2015

    Other
    1983 Honda Z50
    1978 Honda XL75

    Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-coopool
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...k-for-coolpool

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
    --
    3,001
    Holy moly, it's been 2 months since I started on the body work on this rig, hard to believe! After over 2 lbs of MIG wire, a bottle of gas and a can of filler we were finally ready to paint. My friend Rob is pretty good at this stuff and was instrumental in getting me to where we are today, a huge thanks to him! The biggest problem for Rob was to leave all the imperfections that military jeeps come with from new such as spot weld dimples and wavy body panels at weld points. I had to sit on him to not "correct" those areas. And yes the floor will remain dented as the metal is extremely thick on this thing and would have been a huge chore to try and correct...let's call it "patina". I'm getting errors uploading so I'll add another post pre-paint.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Jeep 1.jpg   Jeep 2.jpg   Jeep 3.jpg   Jeep 4.jpg  
    Trikes
    1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
    1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
    1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
    1972/73 US 90 Green
    1977 ATC 90 w/83 110 motor (Fugly)
    1982 ATC 70
    1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
    1973 ATC 70

    1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain

    TF 2015

    Other
    1983 Honda Z50
    1978 Honda XL75

    Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-coopool
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...k-for-coolpool

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
    --
    3,001
    Pre-paint pictures. I can't believe I didn't get any pictures of the "hat-channels" underneath which we're a real treat to fix....oh well, they're good now. I think my pictures are too big to upload. You get the gist, it was a lot of work and a lot of surprises when welding and hitting remnants of brazing and lead filler.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails jeep 8.jpg   jeep 7.jpg   Jeep 9.jpg   Jeep 11.jpg  
    Trikes
    1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
    1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
    1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
    1972/73 US 90 Green
    1977 ATC 90 w/83 110 motor (Fugly)
    1982 ATC 70
    1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
    1973 ATC 70

    1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain

    TF 2015

    Other
    1983 Honda Z50
    1978 Honda XL75

    Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-coopool
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...k-for-coolpool

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
    --
    3,001
    Well after a lot of hours and $ it's finally back on the road. Still a few things to tinker on but drives, steers and brakes pretty good. Lots of set backs along the way as most things old tend to have. I had to pull the drive train out and redo the rear main seal as it developed a leak after a couple of hours running on stands. Also had to get the gas tank welded up twice due to leaks. Next on the list is the M100 Cdn trailer that goes behind it which is still 3 color camoflage and probably hasn't been looked at mechanically since it was retired from service in the 70's.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails M38Cdn 3R.jpg   M38Cdn 1RR.jpg   M38Cdn 2R.jpg   M38Cdn 4R.jpg  
    Trikes
    1970/71 US 90 (Aquarius Blue)
    1970/71 US 90 (Future Project)
    1972/73 US 90 Camo Project (110 Big Bore)
    1972/73 US 90 Green
    1977 ATC 90 w/83 110 motor (Fugly)
    1982 ATC 70
    1983 ATC 70 (Ladybug)
    1973 ATC 70

    1965 Marketeer 3 Wheel Golf Cart with 1986 Honda 250 drivetrain

    TF 2015

    Other
    1983 Honda Z50
    1978 Honda XL75

    Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-coopool
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...k-for-coolpool

  15. #45
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    The Open Road
    --
    4,729
    Boy that turned out friggin awesome! Nice work, sir!

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