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Thread: 3d printed 185s/200s headlight shell

  1. #1
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    3d printed 185s/200s headlight shell

    As you see here is a 3d printed headlight shell for a 1983 185s. I am pretty sure it fits the 200 model as well. If print more of these in red and cleaner, would there be interest in these. I could sell them for around 45-50$(rough estimate).

    P.S. this picture is before supports material are removed.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20201229_123210.jpg   20201229_123015.jpg  

  2. #2
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    Also would be able to do in multiple colors.

  3. #3
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    With a little more refinement, you'll have something marketable. Good job so far.


    The shell bolt area, bottom center, has reinforcements on the OE one. That is a weak spot on any of them. It's one area most likely to break. You may want to make that beefier than OEM. The factory one also has a recessed spot to hold a hex nut. That's not a deal killer, but that area needs something more than a perpendicular, flat mounting tang. Some type of gussets to spread the load out.

    The rest of the bucket looks pretty solid. The OEM ones are pretty durable except for the spot I mentioned. Improve on that, and post a picture of a finished product, and you may be able to sell quite a few. Even high volume, injection molded plastics have finishing processes. They don't all come out of the mold ready for assembly. I've got a scar from an X-Acto knife to prove it. Operating an injection molding machine was one of my many previous jobs.

    Multiple colors? Yes!
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  4. #4
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    Agreed on beefing up the flat tang, i have had many of them with that broken. Some gussets would definitely help. How many shells and what is the infill percentage? I would go with at least four perimeter shells if your not doing 100% solid print. I assume you are using ABS? Because then it could be sanded and acetone smoothed, even a bit of body filler if someone really wanted to go for a smooth finish. I generally sand anything that is rough then do an Acetone smooth in a cheap rice cooker, works great and the parts look like injection molded. I used to run an injection molding machine as well at a previous job, i spent a lot of time snipping sprues off while the machine was cycling.

    Only other suggestion i can make is that going with a larger nozzle will give you quicker print times and fatter layers but it makes for a lot more surface clean up. I could print one at .2mm layer height and the surface would be nearly smooth on my printers, but the print time would be horrendous, probably 14-16 hours. I did some parts in my MSLA printer and now i wish i had one big enough to print something this size, resin printing really is amazing, but my 7 other FDM printers were a lot cheaper!
    ---------------------------------------------------------
    1984 Honda ATC200ES "Big Red"
    1982 ATC200E "Hondie"
    1988 TRX300FW "Project Quad" Still in progress....

  5. #5
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    How long did that print take ? Day or so ? And what material are you using pla or petg?
    If its on the internet its got to be true they can't put any lie's on the internet

  6. #6
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    Pla. 10hrs

  7. #7
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    That’s not to bad for the size of it. Did you use a 3D image converter?
    If its on the internet its got to be true they can't put any lie's on the internet

  8. #8
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    No, I used a design not by me just to see if my printer would print it. Now I have to design my own rendition to be able to sell it

  9. #9
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    Jul 2020
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    Good idea. Only worries is people would distribute it

  10. #10
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    Oct 2019
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    Canada
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    I'd make a mold. Parts will be way stronger, cleaner.

  11. #11
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    Oct 2019
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    Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike33 View Post
    Yeah, I guess your correct. I dont really see people doing that
    The Chinese would never do such a thing....

  12. #12
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    Jul 2020
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    That is what I was getting at, I was replying more about the people on here

  13. #13
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    Would painting the print red or printing in red be better. Painting would be closer to the red but could flake. Printing in red wouldn't chip but wouldn't exactly match with the red of the machine

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike33 View Post
    Would painting the print red or printing in red be better. Painting would be closer to the red but could flake. Printing in red wouldn't chip but wouldn't exactly match with the red of the machine
    My vote is print in red. I’d rather have something close on color that is durable as opposed to a perfect color match
    3 Wheels:
    1982 Honda ATC 185s
    1983 Honda ATC 250R
    1984 Yamaha 225DX
    1985 Honda 250SX
    1986 Honda Big Red 250ES

    4 Wheels:
    1986 Suzuki LT50
    1987 Honda TRX 250 Fourtrax
    2023 Honda Foreman

  15. #15
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    Here is the final product.Click image for larger version. 

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Size:	1.61 MB 
ID:	266297Click image for larger version. 

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Size:	1.48 MB 
ID:	266298
    Thoughts?
    Last edited by Mike33; 01-24-2021 at 10:03 PM.

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