//ArrowChat Code
Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 56

Thread: New Purchase: 1986 350x!

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    CT
    --
    206
    Carb cleaner can spray nozzle perhaps?

  2. #17
    jasong_10's Avatar
    jasong_10 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Croghan, New York
    --
    420
    Quote Originally Posted by floydechoes2000 View Post
    Carb cleaner can spray nozzle perhaps?
    That was my first thought too, the little red straw thing that comes with that sort of stuff . . .
    Jason

    85 ATC 250R - restored stock other than 18" rears, nerf bars, Honda key switch, 14T front sprocket, and white tank and plastics (except rad shrouds)

    87 ATC 200X - restored stock other than 18" rears and nerf bars

    84 TRX 200 - rough but complete budget restore for wife and eventually daughters to bum around on

    Eton Viper 50cc - oldest daughter's current ride

  3. #18
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
    --
    1,250
    I think you guys may be on to it. I just shut down the garage for the night, but now I'm gonna have to go back out there and compare it to the other straws in the garage... (running now before I finish this post).

    You guys nailed it! Its the straw from a spray can like carb cleaner or brake cleaner! I stretched out the mangled mess that I removed from my exhaust valve and it is pretty much the same length as the one I grabbed from my can of brake cleaner.

    Check it out:Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210118_232531.jpg 
Views:	17 
Size:	2.97 MB 
ID:	266175Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210118_232551.jpg 
Views:	16 
Size:	1.74 MB 
ID:	266176

    Underneath that nasty black is actually red plastic. It is visible (not in these pics so well) in other parts of the straw.

    Mystery solved! Thanks guys!

    I figure I'm going to keep posting here on my progress with the cleanup, repairs, and reassembly of this machine.

    Didn't have a lot of time tonight to do much other than wire wheel the motor mount bolts and the aluminum spacers. So much to do. I'm gonna call around tomorrow and search for a local machine shop capable of handling the cylinder bore and valve job (yup, I think I've decided to go 10.25 on a fresh bore).
    - Frank

    1984 200ES Big Red
    1985 350X (x2)
    1986 350X
    1986 250SX
    1984 Auto-X
    1984 ATC70
    1985 ATC70

  4. #19
    BarnBoy is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Oklahoma
    --
    731
    Quote Originally Posted by wonderboy View Post
    I think you guys may be on to it. I just shut down the garage for the night, but now I'm gonna have to go back out there and compare it to the other straws in the garage... (running now before I finish this post).

    You guys nailed it! Its the straw from a spray can like carb cleaner or brake cleaner! I stretched out the mangled mess that I removed from my exhaust valve and it is pretty much the same length as the one I grabbed from my can of brake cleaner.

    Check it out:Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210118_232531.jpg 
Views:	17 
Size:	2.97 MB 
ID:	266175Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210118_232551.jpg 
Views:	16 
Size:	1.74 MB 
ID:	266176

    Underneath that nasty black is actually red plastic. It is visible (not in these pics so well) in other parts of the straw.

    Mystery solved! Thanks guys!

    I figure I'm going to keep posting here on my progress with the cleanup, repairs, and reassembly of this machine.

    Didn't have a lot of time tonight to do much other than wire wheel the motor mount bolts and the aluminum spacers. So much to do. I'm gonna call around tomorrow and search for a local machine shop capable of handling the cylinder bore and valve job (yup, I think I've decided to go 10.25 on a fresh bore).
    Make sure they give you the right piston/bore clearance. So many shops are sloppy with this and turn out 0.005" clearance and crap like that. Whatever Wiseco says....run it.

    Good luck! Post your progress.
    1984 HONDA ATC200M - OG, mid-restoration
    1981 HONDA ATC200 - future build
    1981 HONDA ATC185S - parts
    1984 ATC200X - roller, future build
    1984 Honda ATC250r - in a million pieces- ISO grab bar, PM if you have one

    Da velder
    _______________________________________________
    Feedback:
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-Barnboy

  5. #20
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
    --
    1,250
    So I spent most of the last week just disassembling and cleaning parts. The machine is down to the frame and swingarm.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210121_203805.jpg 
Views:	14 
Size:	1.71 MB 
ID:	266250

    Finally, on Friday my first parts order came in.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_125804.jpg 
Views:	14 
Size:	1.28 MB 
ID:	266251

    After a quick trip to the machine shop to drop off the piston, it's time for some re-assembly!

    First up was the front tire and hub. The original tire had great tread depth left, but had some cracking in it and very poorly installed plugs. I figured even after plugging the holes the tire wasn't going to hold air, so I ordered a tube for it. So time to break the bead and remove it to install new plugs. I managed to find the official Honda tire removal tool quite a few years ago. It works very well! Plus the larger rim size of the front tire makes this one much easier to get off the rim once the bead is broken.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_115244.jpg 
Views:	10 
Size:	1.18 MB 
ID:	266257Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_115338.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	1.57 MB 
ID:	266256Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_115646.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	1.08 MB 
ID:	266255Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_115746.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	1.45 MB 
ID:	266254Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_120832.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	882.7 KB 
ID:	266253Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_122927.jpg 
Views:	11 
Size:	2.24 MB 
ID:	266252

    Now that the tire was off, it was time to pull the old plugs out (two) and prepare for a new patch/plug. I've used these quite a bit and really like them. It provides a plug attached to a large circular patch on the inner surface. Obviously not as convenient as using a conventional plug which allows you to fix this without removing the tire from the rim, but this setup works very well especially for larger punctures. Even though I'm gonna run a tube, I want these holes patched to prevent any debris from entering the tire through the holes. So this just works like a normal patch: you "buff" the inner surface of the tire to clean it, apply the cement and let it completely dry, remove the backing from the patch and pull the stem through the hole, then "stitch" it down using the toothy roller wheel. This really presses the patch down and gets rid of any air. Then just cut the extra plug length off.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_153140.jpg 
Views:	12 
Size:	1.45 MB 
ID:	266266Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_153211.jpg 
Views:	10 
Size:	1.32 MB 
ID:	266265Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_153318.jpg 
Views:	12 
Size:	1.01 MB 
ID:	266264Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_153910.jpg 
Views:	10 
Size:	1.74 MB 
ID:	266263Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_160821.jpg 
Views:	11 
Size:	2.73 MB 
ID:	266262Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_160924.jpg 
Views:	13 
Size:	1.04 MB 
ID:	266261Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_161035.jpg 
Views:	13 
Size:	1.31 MB 
ID:	266260Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_161407.jpg 
Views:	12 
Size:	1.40 MB 
ID:	266259Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_161509.jpg 
Views:	11 
Size:	1.04 MB 
ID:	266258

    Next up new bearings in the front hub.
    - Frank

    1984 200ES Big Red
    1985 350X (x2)
    1986 350X
    1986 250SX
    1984 Auto-X
    1984 ATC70
    1985 ATC70

  6. #21
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
    --
    1,250
    The front bearing install was pretty standard.

    I didn't take pics of the removal, but I have a way that I like to do it that I've used a bunch and it works well. I'm honestly not sure how else to do it. To remove them, here is what I do:
    1. Pop out the bearing dust seal with a pick
    2. Drive the bearing cage off the balls with a punch. This is super easy if the cage is a plastic clip on style, but more difficult if the cage is spot welded stamped steel.
    3. Scoot all the balls to one side and remove the inner race and then the balls. Save for later.
    4. Now the bearing spacer can easily be removed and the opposite bearing driven out with your favorite drift
    5. So all that is left now is the original outer bearing race. I actually just reassemble the bearing with most (but doesn't have to be all) of the original balls and inner race.
    6. Just lay some of the balls on the outer race, set the inner race back on them, and then scoot some of the balls to the other side. Just get it so there is a ball sorta on each side of the inner race. This will be enough to hold it all together while the bearing is not driven out (using a drift from the other side)

    After wire-wheeling the spacer to clean it up, everything is put back together. Bearings are driven with the proper size tool (DO NOT DRIVE ON THE INNER RACES! You'll brinell the bearing and ruin it) Use something that will apply pressure on only the outer race. Both bearing are driven in until they bottom out. Don't forget to insert the spacer tube after the first bearing is in!!
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_152601.jpg 
Views:	7 
Size:	1.37 MB 
ID:	266267Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_152606.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	952.6 KB 
ID:	266268Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_152624.jpg 
Views:	8 
Size:	1.16 MB 
ID:	266269

    Next up are the seals. I used a tool that overlapped the seal and hits on the hub to keep the seals flush with the surface. Once I reassembled the hub on the machine (more on that later) I realized that the right side seal (the opposite side from the brake disc) need to be recessed for the spacer to seal properly.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_152935.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	2.96 MB 
ID:	266270Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_152940.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	796.4 KB 
ID:	266271Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_153010.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	1.37 MB 
ID:	266272
    - Frank

    1984 200ES Big Red
    1985 350X (x2)
    1986 350X
    1986 250SX
    1984 Auto-X
    1984 ATC70
    1985 ATC70

  7. #22
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
    --
    1,250
    I didn't get any pics of the front fork rebuild. My hands were just too oily to use my phone. But there are lots of threads out there on rebuilding forks (I think!). The key with a fork rebuild is to inspect the two bushings: one on the bottom of the fork tube and the one that presses into the top of the slider. Make sure the wear surface (the outer surface of the fork tube bushing and inner surface of the slider bushing) are uniformly grey. This is a coating that provides the sliding surface. If you see copper showing through a majority of the bushing then it is worn out.

    Also, when sliding on your new fork seals, use a thin plastic grocery bag on the top of the fork tube so that the alignment groove on the top of the tube doesn't damage the seal. Dump a little fork oil on the bag and the seal will easily slide over it and onto the fork tube.

    The steering stem bearing were next. 86 uses the identical loose 18 balls on the top of the steering stem like 85 uses, but instead of the same on the bottom, 86 uses a cage to hold the loose balls. There is still a separate race on the bottom triple and one in the steering neck on the frame, but it is nice not having to manage the loose balls on the bottom of the stem.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_182509.jpg 
Views:	8 
Size:	726.8 KB 
ID:	266276Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_182523.jpg 
Views:	10 
Size:	2.99 MB 
ID:	266275

    After greasing the bottom bearing, the lower triple is slid up into the neck of the frame and then a good amount of grease is applied to the race at the top of the neck. The 18 1/4" steel bearing balls are place in (the grease holds them in place) then the upper race and large retention nut.

    Once this is in place tighten the nut on top very tight (relatively, probably 20-30 foot pounds) and move the triples back and forth a few times. This sets the bearing and gets everything where it needs to be. Then loosed the nut all the way and torque it to a final torque (per the manual) of about 5 foot pounds. This nut requires a hook spanner and I didn't have a way to measure it, so I used the TLAR method. The triple should still take a tiny amount of effort to move, it shouldn't be able to flop under its own weight.

    Once that's done, it's time to place the upper triple clamp on top, slide in the fork tubes for alignment, and torque down the final top nut.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_221344.jpg 
Views:	8 
Size:	1.56 MB 
ID:	266274

    Done!
    - Frank

    1984 200ES Big Red
    1985 350X (x2)
    1986 350X
    1986 250SX
    1984 Auto-X
    1984 ATC70
    1985 ATC70

  8. #23
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
    --
    1,250
    Almost done catching up this thread with my progress...

    I had an old set of fork boots to replace the completely destroyed originals on this machine, but there was one crack and they were pretty stiff.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_221421.jpg 
Views:	7 
Size:	1.40 MB 
ID:	266287Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210122_222903.jpg 
Views:	7 
Size:	882.9 KB 
ID:	266288

    I took them inside, washed them in really hot water to hopefully soften them up a bit, and used some super glue on the split to try to close the gap. Bottom line: it didn't work. The one boot was too far gone. Time to break into the emergency parts stash:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210123_121032.jpg 
Views:	11 
Size:	1.17 MB 
ID:	266289

    Those will work!

    Last step before buttoning up the front end was to clean up the front axle bolt and spacers. The spacers wound up having a lot of surface pitting. These definitely would have just chewed up my new seals. Time to dive back into the parts stash again. After wire-wheeling the "stash" parts, I had a usable set. I decided I would just us the parts stash axle bolt too since it was cleaner. Top bolt: original. Bottom bolt: parts stash bolt going on machine
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210123_125111.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	1.88 MB 
ID:	266290

    Time to grease the wheel bearing seals, slather up the axle bolt and put it all together.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210123_125404.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	1.38 MB 
ID:	266291

    DONE!
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210123_131154.jpg 
Views:	17 
Size:	1.32 MB 
ID:	266292

    Sorry for the sideways pics... I'll see if I can figure out how to fix that.

    Up Next: Front Brakes!
    - Frank

    1984 200ES Big Red
    1985 350X (x2)
    1986 350X
    1986 250SX
    1984 Auto-X
    1984 ATC70
    1985 ATC70

  9. #24
    BarnBoy is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Oklahoma
    --
    731
    Looks great....you're moving quickly and this is going to be an awesome bike. A 350x is on my list...I will get one someday....
    1984 HONDA ATC200M - OG, mid-restoration
    1981 HONDA ATC200 - future build
    1981 HONDA ATC185S - parts
    1984 ATC200X - roller, future build
    1984 Honda ATC250r - in a million pieces- ISO grab bar, PM if you have one

    Da velder
    _______________________________________________
    Feedback:
    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck-for-Barnboy

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    --
    2,196
    Quote Originally Posted by wonderboy View Post

    I've got to file that under: Answers for generic engine won't run questions.


    Good thing that's all it was. Good job on getting on everything so quickly.




    That front tire though. I'd be more than a little apprehensive about going fast and hard on it. Instead of a road gator, it may become a trail gator. It looks like someone rode it flat (or pert near) for a while, which will break down the carcass.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    devore,ca
    --
    1,015
    When you do the engine reassembly the valve cover goes on without a gasket. DO NOT USE SILICON. Silicon turns into mush when it gets soaked in motor oil. I've been using permatex on all of my x's
    and it is holding up well. The silicon will end up getting into your oiling system when it lets go, and do bad things. Whatever "sealant" you use don't glob it on. You want to minimize how much of it will squeeze
    into the inside of the cover as so it doesn't end up globbing off and falling into the top of the head and blocking of the oil passages.

    Also, valves are getting scarce for the 350x. If you can find new ones -great. But you might end up having to use the old ones if they are still good.
    YAMAHA 450 HYBRID
    85 350X- RED
    85 350x -BLACK
    86 350x-WHITE (with Goki)
    85 250r
    83 atc 70
    84 atc 70
    84 atc 110
    09 yfz 450
    2006 Arctic Cat Prowler
    RZR XP 900

  12. #27
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
    --
    1,250
    Thanks for the input guys. I'll keep an eye on that front tire and see how it looks after some riding. I've honestly seen worse condition tires before, but I agree I don't want a blowout happening which would not be nice to the OEM front fender.

    Low compression causes:
    1. Bad rings
    2. Worn cylinder
    3. Burned/sticking valve
    4. Little red straw from can of carb cleaner stuck in your exhaust port holding valves open
    LOL!!

    With regard to the top end assembly: AMEN! I'm with you and am extremely anal retentive about this. I follow the book procedure and use the recommended Hondabond sealant (as far as I can tell, same material the factory used). I go so far as to actually mark in sharpie marker the "exclusion" zones exactly as shown in the manual. I am very careful about this because I don't want to starve the cam journals of oil...
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Head Sealant Exclusion Zone.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	125.0 KB 
ID:	266310

    Another skill that is a sort of transfer skill from another hobby of mine (electronics) is using a razor blade as a squeegee of sorts to even out heatsink grease on electronic components. Same story here, you just want a very even thin layer of material. I've reassembled a couple 350x topends so far, and I use the razor blade to smooth out and remove the excess Hondabond. I just go over it to get a nice smooth even layer that isn't spilling out over the edges. I then usually let it sit open just a bit longer and then place the cylinder head cover on with all bolts just finger tight. I let that sit a bit, then finally torque per spec.

    Regarding the valves, they are actually in beautiful shape. I have a couple sets of OEM new valves in the stash, but these are staying safely tucked away as the guy at the machine shop said that they originals were in perfect condition and will clean up with no effort.
    - Frank

    1984 200ES Big Red
    1985 350X (x2)
    1986 350X
    1986 250SX
    1984 Auto-X
    1984 ATC70
    1985 ATC70

  13. #28
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
    --
    1,250
    Progress update from Sunday:

    Gave the headlight shell a bath. Just need to do something about the minor rust on the bottom of the lamp lenses. Probably just find a brush on rust converting coating so I can do this in the house (too cold in the garage for this type of work). Sorry, no post bath pictures. I'll get some once this is all back assembled.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210124_120519.jpg 
Views:	8 
Size:	1.37 MB 
ID:	266315Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210124_120158.jpg 
Views:	7 
Size:	1.07 MB 
ID:	266316

    Rebuilt front and rear brakes. Front caliper was in great shape, just needed to clean the slide rail pins. Gave the whole thing a good wipe down to clean it up, wire wheels all the fasteners and then reconnected the hose with new crush washers. Pads had good life left in them, rubber parts were good (after cleaning). Overall excellent condition.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210124_143352.jpg 
Views:	8 
Size:	2.40 MB 
ID:	266311Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210124_143354.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	2.35 MB 
ID:	266312Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210124_153637.jpg 
Views:	8 
Size:	2.62 MB 
ID:	266313

    With the front master cylinder, I was unfortunately not so lucky. One of the handlebar bracket bolts broke (a first for me) and one of the Philips lid screws stripped. I botched the removal. What I USUALLY do is find a drill bit just a bit smaller than the OD of the head of the screw and then drill down. The stripped Philips slot usually give you a good enough centering of the drill bit. Once you drill down just far enough, you sever the head from the screw and then the lid is free. This also leaves plenty of screw sticking up to grab with vice grips and back out the rest of the screw. Well, I used too small of a bit and ate into the portion of the screw that I usually grab with the vice grips. It mushed and broke off and I'm left with the screw stuck in the master with nothing to grab. I think my next plan of attack will be to use an old lid as a drill guide and use that to help center the drill bit as I try to drill this out. The master would otherwise be rebuildable, and I hate wasting an original OEM master cylinder especially with the "HA5" marks in the casting. I'm a sucker for keeping the old original parts going.

    Anyway, no time to mess with this now, so into the parts stash again for a different master. Found one that looked promising. I removed the piston and found that a quick cleaning and blast with some brake cleaner and this was good to go. Cosmetically not a 10, but functional for sure. Grabbed a good used brake lever out of the stash (original was broken off) and a couple new chrome oval headed screws for the handlebar mount and got it mounted up. Oh yea, new crush washer too. No pics of anything except the final result:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210124_153659.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	2.51 MB 
ID:	266314

    The rear caliper required a complete rebuild. When I removed the park brake block-off plate, it was very wet with brake fluid. The little P8 o-ring that seals the park brake stem out the back of the piston must have been leaking. Anyway, completely tore down the caliper and found the o-ring and retaining cup loose on the park brake stem. The little cup requires a little tap with something flat to give it a tiny bit of mushrooming to give a tight fit again. All new rubber parts, cleaned piston all shiny new looking, wire wheeled all hardware and reassembled. The master only required a new rubber boot on the input shaft. Sorry no pics of this one... it was way too late and hand way too oily.

    Oh yea, I'm trying out these new handlebars from Emgo. These were very affordable, and I've had them on the shelf for a while waiting for a project. They are intended for a later model quad ('93-'06 TRX300EX), but they have the provisions for the OEM handlebar endcaps, grips, and are similar to the 350X bend. I've never used them, but we'll see. The only hickup is that the knurled area of the bar is too narrow for the bar clamps. They seem to be secure, but it will take a little riding to be sure.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210123_131238.jpg 
Views:	8 
Size:	1.80 MB 
ID:	266319Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210123_131323.jpg 
Views:	7 
Size:	1.36 MB 
ID:	266318Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210124_153709.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	1.22 MB 
ID:	266317

    Up next: Have to decide about pulling swingarm pivot bolt and inspecting that or cleaning up the exhaust and drilling one snapped heat shield bolt... we'll see how the week goes.
    - Frank

    1984 200ES Big Red
    1985 350X (x2)
    1986 350X
    1986 250SX
    1984 Auto-X
    1984 ATC70
    1985 ATC70

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    devore,ca
    --
    1,015
    Good to hear you knew about the silicon problem, most don't. I've also dug silicon out of the oil screen in the bottom of the engine from people using it on the clutch side cover.
    YAMAHA 450 HYBRID
    85 350X- RED
    85 350x -BLACK
    86 350x-WHITE (with Goki)
    85 250r
    83 atc 70
    84 atc 70
    84 atc 110
    09 yfz 450
    2006 Arctic Cat Prowler
    RZR XP 900

  15. #30
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
    --
    1,250
    I pretty much only use the Hondabond now, if anything. Side cover gaskets go on dry for me (actually a little oil first) but no sealant. I've lived with too much silicone snot inside of motors from previous owners to know better now.

    Cheers!
    - Frank

    1984 200ES Big Red
    1985 350X (x2)
    1986 350X
    1986 250SX
    1984 Auto-X
    1984 ATC70
    1985 ATC70

//ArrowChat Integreation Code //