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Thread: New Purchase: 1986 350x!

  1. #31
    BarnBoy is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Oklahoma
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    731
    A bit of oil on the gaskets let's them come apart super EZ next time. You know what you're doing...Hondabond, yamabond, 3bond, all good stuff.
    1984 HONDA ATC200M - OG, mid-restoration
    1981 HONDA ATC200 - future build
    1981 HONDA ATC185S - parts
    1984 ATC200X - roller, future build
    1984 Honda ATC250r - in a million pieces- ISO grab bar, PM if you have one

    Da velder
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  2. #32
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
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    1,250
    Yesterday I was able to drill out two broken bolts from the factory header (the two rear bosses where the heat shield bolts into) and heli-coil them. No pics, but once I bead-blast and high temp paint it, I'll snap some shots of it. I also opened up the little lid on the back underside of the muffler and repaired those threads too. This let me shake out a lot of loose crud that was rattling around inside the muffler. Same deal, no pics of that but once it's pretty again I'll post up some shots.

    Tonight I removed the swingarm pivot bolt and rear shock. The rear needle bearings were perfect, and the pivot bolt only needed a small amount of wire wheeling to look super. After cleaning the fasteners, pivot seals, and chain slider I packed the needle bearings with moly grease, inserted the pivot shaft, coated the pivot bolt with anti-seize and reassembled everything. Torqued to 65 ft-lbs. Sorry, the only pic I have of this is the bolt. The rest was pretty boring.
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    Next up: The rear shock.

    There are signs of major leakage on the rear shock. I was worried that the guts would be toast. However, the shock still moved smooth and quiet so I was hopeful.
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    After backing off on the spring adjuster nuts all the way (pleasantly surprised that they came loose very easily) and removing the spring perch and then the spring from the shock, I popped the bottom cap off and confirmed that the seal is toast, it is a sloppy mess in there.
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    The shock is definitely coming apart for a rebuild. I released the pressure from the reservoir after fighting the cap off the entire way and was happy that it still had pressure. I removed the hose from the reservoir and was bummed: the reservoir was dry. No oil came out of it or the free end of the hose. Feeling nervous at this point (hoping the rest of the shock isn't dry).
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    Switched attention to the shock body now and removed the hose from it, and phew... it was full of oil. The shock body appeared pretty much full of oil, so overall the system was only down the small volume of oil contained in the reservoir. I'm hopeful now that I'll only need the shaft seals.
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    Disassembled the shock shaft, being careful to use a wire loop to hold all the piston stack, shims, washers, etc in the exact order they came off the shaft.
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    Wouldn't you know it: I've got a 250R and 200X seal set, but NO 350X seals... Well, done for now! Gotta order the seals from Schmidty Racing. They have a nice inexpensive seal kit with the stuff you need for a basic rebuild.
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    That's it for now!
    - Frank

    1984 200ES Big Red
    1985 350X (x2)
    1986 350X
    1986 250SX
    1984 Auto-X
    1984 ATC70
    1985 ATC70

  3. #33
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
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    1,250
    I got too cold, greasy, and impatient to take many more pictures during the reassembly. But it's all back together! I just got back in from taking it for a spin down the road. For those not around the Detroit Metro Area right now, it is about 20 degrees and snowing out. Not exactly 3-wheeler weather (not for me anyway!). Ran it down our snow covered side street and it ran awesome. Just discovered though that the voltage regulator has taken a dump, as both headlights burned out within about 5 seconds of turning them on. Bummer.

    I've got a few more details to work out (one fastener on the exhaust heat shield is missing) and the voltage regulator and new bulbs. I've got a set of OEM tires stashed that I'll mount up and this one is done! Can't wait for spring to get a real ride in on it.

    Here is a completed pic. You can see how white I got the front fender. I washed it in our laundry sink and used a Mr Clean Magic Eraser. It really cleaned up nicely. The rear fenders are just too big to wash inside. They'll have to look nasty till warmer weather hits and I can get the garden hose out. I stole tank shrouds from one of my other machines, so I'll need to order another set eventually to replace them.
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    Here was the very first firing of the engine. It's on high idle with the choke on. After heat cycling a few times to cook the exhaust paint on, I adjusted the idle pretty smooth. I think the airscrew needs a little tweak since it doesn't want to rev back down quite as quickly as I think it should. (sorry, can't upload a video)
    Last edited by wonderboy; 02-12-2021 at 10:31 PM.
    - Frank

    1984 200ES Big Red
    1985 350X (x2)
    1986 350X
    1986 250SX
    1984 Auto-X
    1984 ATC70
    1985 ATC70

  4. #34
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    The Open Road
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    4,729
    Nice rehab so far.

    Bravo on doing your own rear shock. I'm glad I did mine as it saved me a few hundred bucks. As long as the person is careful with the shim stack order, it's a piece of cake to do a rear shock rebuild. I did my own on the R for $105 counting oil and nitrogen and I bought stupid expensive racetech oil which was $30 of that $105.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
    --
    1,250
    Quote Originally Posted by ironchop View Post
    Nice rehab so far.

    Bravo on doing your own rear shock. I'm glad I did mine as it saved me a few hundred bucks. As long as the person is careful with the shim stack order, it's a piece of cake to do a rear shock rebuild. I did my own on the R for $105 counting oil and nitrogen and I bought stupid expensive racetech oil which was $30 of that $105.
    Totally agree! It's a lot of money to pay a service to do it. And the work really isn't that bad. I actually made the investment and purchased the nitrogen cylinder and regulator, hose, and fitting to recharge too. I've done probably a dozen shocks so far between my own, my brothers, and friends. I really like being self-reliant for this stuff. I HATE hiring out work, both because of the cost and because of the unknown of how good of a job they will do.


    Oh, and here is a Pro-Tip for voltage regulators (note I blew both headlights and taillight last night): To get the most effectiveness out of your regulator, make sure the wires on the regulator are physically connected to the wires on the wiring harness on the 3-wheeler. They work better that way.

    ... I'm an idiot. I was rushing too much and completely forgot to plug the regulator in. I struggled so long with the boots on the airbox that it threw me off. Oh well, time to order new bulbs, plug in the regulator, and move on.
    - Frank

    1984 200ES Big Red
    1985 350X (x2)
    1986 350X
    1986 250SX
    1984 Auto-X
    1984 ATC70
    1985 ATC70

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mexico
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    9,003
    Nice job!!!! :
    It sucks to get old

  7. #37
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
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    1,250
    I really had to fight the urge to pretty it up too much. I just cleaned the grime as much as I could. The key was to make sure that mechanically everything was sound. Once spring hits, I'll give it a good wash and get those rear fenders cleaned up (peel the old ORV stickers and magic eraser clean them). So pretty much every bearing, seal, etc is all good. Thanks to Dirtcrasher for supplying the out-of-production foot brake lever seals and to ps2fixer for supplying some electrical terminals that were shot on my harness. And also Dirtwheels for the amazing good condition rear grab bar and steering stop cover. Thanks guys!

    Really the only things this needs to be back to 100% OEM (the way I like to ride them) are:
    * Upper brake hose guide - If anyone has just the bracket part, I've got the wire form part. I'll buy whatchya got.
    * Rear Skid Plate - I'm gonna make a couple welds on the old original to make it serviceable. But I'm keeping my eye out for a good used OEM replacement.
    * Toolbox - Not gonna worry about this one since it's just too much money for something that I'm not gonna really carry tools in anyway (weight will just break it). Those support brackets for the 86 are worth their weight in gold (according to ebay).
    * Helmet Holder - 86 had a helmet holder (85 didn't). Again, not gonna really look for this since it really doesn't do anything for me and people want stupid money for them on e-bay.
    Last edited by wonderboy; 02-13-2021 at 08:24 PM.
    - Frank

    1984 200ES Big Red
    1985 350X (x2)
    1986 350X
    1986 250SX
    1984 Auto-X
    1984 ATC70
    1985 ATC70

  8. #38
    wild200x is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
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    196
    been following and really like what you have done. I am still trying to figure out how the straw got there??? lmao. Also, you said you would use Magic Eraser on fenders? Is this a thing? restore color?

  9. #39
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
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    1,250
    Quote Originally Posted by wild200x View Post
    been following and really like what you have done. I am still trying to figure out how the straw got there??? lmao. Also, you said you would use Magic Eraser on fenders? Is this a thing? restore color?
    The Mr Clean Magic Eraser is just a good cleaning option. It doesn't have enough oomph to bring back any color really. I think to really do that process, you're talking about real wet/dry sandpapers and staring out at much more coarse grits. As for the magic eraser sponge, I've heard it is the equivalent of a very high grit abrasive (very very fine, like in the 1000's). On the front fender, I first washed it in the laundry tub using just a car wash sponge. It got most of the dirt off, but the white seemed dirty still. I've used the magic eraser's on lots of other plastic parts before (stuff unrelated to ATCs) and had good luck. On the front fender, it is amazing how well it really got rid of the dirty look. Just a little effort and you can literally see the effect as you scrub and then rinse. I think the sponge form of this works so well because it conforms to the surface so well.

    Once we get some warm weather and I'm able to use the hose outside, I'll try to remember to post some before, in-process, and after pics of the rear fender. It hasn't been touched yet just because it's too big for the laundry sink and the hoses are shut off for the winter.


    As for the straw, I really don't think it could have made it's way in through the carb and intake. It had to have fallen into the spark plug hole at some point when the previous owner was doing something. "Hmmm, where'd that straw go... must be on the floor somewhere. Oh well, lets put the plug back in and start it back up..." I'm really not sure what he would have been doing, but its the only way I can figure that this happened. I'm just happy it was a plastic straw and not something metallic that fell in there. I had the valve seats reground and the valves checked and everything was fine, thankfully.
    - Frank

    1984 200ES Big Red
    1985 350X (x2)
    1986 350X
    1986 250SX
    1984 Auto-X
    1984 ATC70
    1985 ATC70

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Feb 2021
    Location
    Burgh
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    12
    Yer dog don't look to thrilled! LOL

  11. #41
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
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    1,250
    Yea, he loves hanging out by me, but not in the cold garage... LOL! Now, if I happen to fire up the 3wheeler, he goes bonkers because he loves to follow me if I ride it around (just close to home). But he definitely isn't a cold weather garage dog.
    - Frank

    1984 200ES Big Red
    1985 350X (x2)
    1986 350X
    1986 250SX
    1984 Auto-X
    1984 ATC70
    1985 ATC70

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Soutwestern PA
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    2,040
    Quote Originally Posted by wonderboy View Post
    The Mr Clean Magic Eraser is just a good cleaning option. It doesn't have enough oomph to bring back any color really. I think to really do that process, you're talking about real wet/dry sandpapers and staring out at much more coarse grits. As for the magic eraser sponge, I've heard it is the equivalent of a very high grit abrasive (very very fine, like in the 1000's). On the front fender, I first washed it in the laundry tub using just a car wash sponge. It got most of the dirt off, but the white seemed dirty still.
    My goto for years on my ATC seats has been WD-40 plus Magic Eraser. I'm not sure if that was a good idea since most of my seats are now starting to harden up and dry out.
    When I clean plastics, I generally spray the entire trike down with LA's Totally Awesome and hose off, BUT.... if still dirty, I pull out the WD-40 plus Magic Eraser and clean up the fenders. Really makes the white plastics (Fat Cat, white Clarke tank, etc) really very white.
    The reason I am telling this is because the last time I took a Magic Eraser to my (Big Red) fenders, my friends were over and they told me to cease the practice immediately. They told me the abrasive in the eraser would take (and has taken) all the shine out of my plastics.
    You know how Honda OEM plastics have a shiny exterior and it is dull underneath?? Well, I started looking at my plastics and maybe I have scrubbed the shine off of them over the years?
    Now I am not even sure, and not trying to highjack the thread, maybe I should start a new thread on cleaning fenders but since it was brought up here, it triggered this question.

  13. #43
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
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    1,250
    My take is this: the shine naturally goes away due to environmental conditions. I'm almost positive (but somebody here can correct me if I'm wrong) there is no coating or finish applied to the plastics to make them shiny. They are simply a very smooth out-of-the-mold finish which is nice and shiny. The shine after 35 years dulls down due to whatever processes are acting on the plastic. Yea, the magic eraser may help that happen more quickly, but even if you haven't touched them I think they will typically dull up if ridden regularly.

    The magic eraser is a very mild abrasive. So, I imagine that if you have a very shiny fender and you magic eraser'ed it, you would knock the shine off a bit. However, it does deeply clean the surface and removes crud, so if you were to follow this up with a buffer and some polishing compound, I'm betting you'd start to get the shine back.

    Most of my rider fenders have so many scrapes and scratches that it just doesn't seem worth it to try to shine them up.
    - Frank

    1984 200ES Big Red
    1985 350X (x2)
    1986 350X
    1986 250SX
    1984 Auto-X
    1984 ATC70
    1985 ATC70

  14. #44
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
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    1,250
    So we had an amazingly warm day yesterday in the Metro Detroit area. I got the 350x fenders all cleaned up. I did use the magic eraser again, and the difference is dramatic. Like was stated earlier though, this may knock the shine off, but these fenders were already dull from long ago. Next step may be to try some polishing. But for now, I'm good to go. All that is really needed is a gastank repaint and this thing would be VERY respectable.

    I also mounted up one of my sets of NOS OEM tires. These were a BIG disappointment though. I bought them 2nd hand. They still had all the little rubber nubs on the tread (they've never been run) but they clearly had been mounted before because the beads were damaged to the point where the air would leak so fast they'd go flat in about 10 minutes. Super bummed, but I just had to tube them. Would rather not, but now they hold air perfectly. Oh well...

    Here is the before picture:
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    Here is the cleaned up pic:
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    I've got the upper brake hose guide on the way from e-bay. Once that is on, I may contact my buddy who does tank painting. The ONLY other thing that is missing at that point is the worth-its-weight-in-gold mudflap. I'm seriously thinking about different ways of reproducing this. I'm not sure about the resin casting methods, since the shrinkage (even if only a percent or two) over the long dimension of this would result in a bad repro. I'm wondering about the option of a fiberglass replacement. I can imagine that the flat part of the flap would be no significant challenge (no more so than a typical fiberglass molded part), but the mounting tabs on the back would present a challenge. I imagine those being a separately made piece bonded to the rest of the mudflap... not sure really.
    - Frank

    1984 200ES Big Red
    1985 350X (x2)
    1986 350X
    1986 250SX
    1984 Auto-X
    1984 ATC70
    1985 ATC70

  15. #45
    jasong_10's Avatar
    jasong_10 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Croghan, New York
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    420
    That cleaned up great, looks good.
    Jason

    85 ATC 250R - restored stock other than 18" rears, nerf bars, Honda key switch, 14T front sprocket, and white tank and plastics (except rad shrouds)

    87 ATC 200X - restored stock other than 18" rears and nerf bars

    84 TRX 200 - rough but complete budget restore for wife and eventually daughters to bum around on

    Eton Viper 50cc - oldest daughter's current ride

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