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Thread: Kawasaki KXT 250 tecate restoration

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Greece
    --
    58
    Hello guys, i have been very busy last week but i managed to fix the rear shock absorber.Unfortunately i don't have any pictures to post so you can see the before but note that the shock was given in a basket and it was already torn apart (and messed up)So after a lot of cleaning i installed a new moose seal head,a new moose upper bearing,a new KYB shock bumper,a new KYB schrader valve,new stainless oil hose and two TRW M10x1 bolts.It was very difficult to find these bolts cause every other bolt i found was just too short and obviously i didn't wan't to use the oem rusted ones that were also beaten up.!
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  2. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Greece
    --
    58
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    All the part numbers from the parts i used, i'm missing the TRW bolts code, i will upload it tomorrow with an explanation what you need to take care in the shock so you don't have any leaks.
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    Last edited by Antreas Sp; 12-06-2021 at 01:29 PM.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Keene Valley, NY
    --
    23
    Just an FYI on that shock rebuild.
    You do not want to use grease on any internal parts or seals that could possibly come into contact with your damper fluid.

    Suspension internals are designed to be fully lubricated and assembled with damper fluid ONLY!

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Greece
    --
    58
    Quote Originally Posted by berlow94 View Post
    Just an FYI on that shock rebuild.
    You do not want to use grease on any internal parts or seals that could possibly come into contact with your damper fluid.

    Suspension internals are designed to be fully lubricated and assembled with damper fluid ONLY!
    In case you didn't notice this is an oem KYB grease which is used to grease only the seal inside it's lip. If you do not do that then the seal gets burned out when you go and ride hard because of the heat generated from the quick stroke up and down at a suspension or a shock. Go read a manufacturer service manual and find out for yourself they do grease the seals. And what do you mean with FYI.
    Last edited by Antreas Sp; 04-15-2021 at 09:50 AM.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Keene Valley, NY
    --
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by Antreas Sp View Post
    In case you didn't notice this is an oem KYB grease which is used to grease only the seal inside it's lip. If you do not do that then the seal gets burned out when you go and ride hard because of the heat generated from the quick stroke up and down at a suspension or a shock. Go read a manufacturer service manual and find out for yourself they do grease the seals. And what do you mean with FYI.
    I’ve worked as a suspension tech for over 10 years.
    I’ve yet to read a manual that indicates using grease on INTERNAL seals.
    Only EXTERNAL.

    Once grease touch’s the damper fluid it changes it’s chemical makeup and viscosity which will cause inconsistent damping.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Greece
    --
    58
    Quote Originally Posted by berlow94 View Post
    I’ve worked as a suspension tech for over 10 years.
    I’ve yet to read a manual that indicates using grease on INTERNAL seals.
    Only EXTERNAL.

    Once grease touch’s the damper fluid it changes it’s chemical makeup and viscosity which will cause inconsistent damping.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Then we are talking about the same thing.I didn't say i used grease in any of the internal components, not even on the outer o-ring on the seal head you see at the photo with the grease and if you see any component with grease just point me out.The only grease i used it is the oil seal LIP.

    And since we are at an open forum where everyone can say whatever he wants and here are other people who really want to know and read about right stuff here is a service manual from a KTM dirt bike which says use lubricant to the seal

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    and if we go to page 226 product T511

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    and have a look at google this takes us to
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    SILICONE GREASE.

    So here is your first service manual in 10 years as a technician that indicates using grease at a seal.
    Last edited by Antreas Sp; 04-15-2021 at 02:30 PM.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Keene Valley, NY
    --
    23
    I didn't say that you were. FYI means "For Your Info". I was just trying to offer a friendly piece of advice.

    The article you posted tells you to grease a collar that is not coming into contact with damper fluid. It's on an external seal.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Greece
    --
    58
    On my first attemt to assemble the shock oil was pouring out of the rebound adjusting knob so i tore everything apart and i removed the adjuster so i can see what type of seal has to be in there that needs to be replaced. In order to do that you need to remove that plug that holds the spring with the ball that "clicks" your adjuster everytime you rotate it.
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    In order to do that i center drill a 4mm hole and i tap a m5 thread just to "catch" it and remove it and that worked perfect without damaging anything.So there is no seal anywhere there so you don't have to do that.I made another new plug on my lathe and everything was installed back on.
    The seal you need to replace is in the shock shaft at the point where it threads on the "body" of the rebound adjuster.In my case there was nothing in there.Someone has already remove these parts and they were missing.So i had an old kdx 200 shock which i torn apart to see what type of seal has in there so i can duplicate.And that's what i did.Again there is a bronze collar you need to remove which is i think 5mm so i tap a m6 thread and remove it.next to it was an o-ring and then a small teflon ring which is used so that the o-ring stays in place and not get damaged from the shoulder in the shaft.
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    And here are everything together.I also made a new bronze collar to fit in the shaft.Assembled the shock and charge it with 150 psi nitrogen.
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  9. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Greece
    --
    58
    Quote Originally Posted by berlow94 View Post
    I didn't say that you were. FYI means "For Your Info". I was just trying to offer a friendly piece of advice.

    The article you posted tells you to grease a collar that is not coming into contact with damper fluid. It's on an external seal.
    Your advice is appreciated, if grease touch’s the damper fluid it changes it’s chemical makeup and viscosity which will cause inconsistent damping.Your very right and anyone has to watch for this when doing suspension work.

    The article i posted says to use grease to the seal that keeps the oil in the suspension.The grease is not meant to be used internally where it comes in contact with the oil but past the spring of the seal that has a cavity and if oil was to be in that cavity then you would also had oil dripping on the floor,busted seal.

    That's an dust seal but you get my point.
    Attachment 267379

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Keene Valley, NY
    --
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by Antreas Sp View Post
    On my first attemt to assemble the shock oil was pouring out of the rebound adjusting knob so i tore everything apart and i removed the adjuster so i can see what type of seal has to be in there that needs to be replaced. In order to do that you need to remove that plug that holds the spring with the ball that "clicks" your adjuster everytime you rotate it.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    In order to do that i center drill a 4mm hole and i tap a m5 thread just to "catch" it and remove it and that worked perfect without damaging anything.So there is no seal anywhere there so you don't have to do that.I made another new plug on my lathe and everything was installed back on.
    The seal you need to replace is in the shock shaft at the point where it threads on the "body" of the rebound adjuster.In my case there was nothing in there.Someone has already remove these parts and they were missing.So i had an old kdx 200 shock which i torn apart to see what type of seal has in there so i can duplicate.And that's what i did.Again there is a bronze collar you need to remove which is i think 5mm so i tap a m6 thread and remove it.next to it was an o-ring and then a small teflon ring which is used so that the o-ring stays in place and not get damaged from the shoulder in the shaft.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    And here are everything together.I also made a new bronze collar to fit in the shaft.Assembled the shock and charge it with 150 psi nitrogen.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Nice work!

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Greece
    --
    58
    Quote Originally Posted by berlow94 View Post
    Nice work!
    Thank you buddy !

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Greece
    --
    58
    Well it's been a while guys, i just work a lot around my house and i don't have much time for the tecate!Nothing special today i just rebuild the rear brake master cylinder which many other tecate owners just replase with a ninja 250 which fits right on. But i desided to make the tecate one like new so i used a moose racing kit for a ltr 450.Part number on the photo!
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    And here it is how it was inside, all the oil has turned like wax
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    I also replaced the o-ring and the snap ring from the side that the hose from the oil tank attaches to which was very hard to remove since it was very good stuck in there so i used a heat gun and heat it around and that did the job, do not use an open flame cause you will melt the plastic
    I want to tell you to be careful when you clean all the stuff from in those two holes, one is big and you can get anything to clean but the other one "which i didn't know it was there" is a tiny hole like from an airjet from a carburetor which i manage to clean with a single strain from a clutch cable.If you zoom at the photo you may see it.
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    Also if you have a hard time removing the snap ring look for the flat spot on the plastic piece and remove it from that spot.I used a stainless steel snap ring.
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    Last edited by Antreas Sp; 06-07-2021 at 05:26 AM.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Greece
    --
    58
    On to next part guys, when i finish my project i want to ride at the dunes (actually beach here) and i cannot find any front sand tyre at 11" size and i saw a lot of guy's change the front wheel for a 10" size so i took a risk and order the widest 10" Douglas rim (i think 6" wide) i found which i was hoping to be able to machine it and make it fit at the hub which i did! So it had a small hole in the center for other trikes which i make it bigger and drill new holes for the 4x170 tecate hub and everything was a tight but nice fit. I had to machine a little bit of the diameter of the flange nuts also so they go flat and not on the radius of the rim. And i installed the sand star already! I checked it on the tecate and left to right fork its 0.4 bigger gap on one side which won't affect riding.
    And this is gonna be on only for sand riding,on regular use i'll have the stock rim

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    Last edited by Antreas Sp; 06-07-2021 at 05:25 AM.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Buffalo, NY
    --
    1,990
    I have an 11 sand front tire but it's a buffed knobby type tire. Someone out west was selling them, I could try to dig up the info if you want, but it looks like you already have the solution.

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    Looking for a Bassani silencer for a 2nd gen tecate, the style with the movable mount. 1st gen will work

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Greece
    --
    58
    Quote Originally Posted by 86T3 View Post
    I have an 11 sand front tire but it's a buffed knobby type tire. Someone out west was selling them, I could try to dig up the info if you want, but it looks like you already have the solution.

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    Hello T3, yes i would like you to see if there is still an 11" sand tyre available!

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