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Thread: 250R keeps having coolant in crankcase.

  1. #16
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    I assumed the way he explained the coolant issue that he was talking about crank cavity and pressures from their and not the crankcase transmission cavity .
    Do you have coolant in your transmission oil ? If yes it’s time to rebuild the water pump .
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  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by shortline10 View Post
    I assumed the way he explained the coolant issue that he was talking about crank cavity and pressures from their and not the crankcase transmission cavity .
    Do you have coolant in your transmission oil ? If yes it’s time to rebuild the water pump .
    Ah, good point. I assumed transmission.
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  3. #18
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    I’m pretty sure he said he already done that. Even so there are such things as bad new parts. We all been there
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  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by big specht View Post
    I’m pretty sure he said he already done that. Even so there are such things as bad new parts. We all been there
    That's correct, it was replaced. Before it was replaced there was no coolant in the transmission. I went ahead and replaced the water pump anyway because I had the new parts in the shop.

  5. #20
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    Oct 2018
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    Finished up over the weekend, head and cylinder came out great and flat. Passed a leak down test. Compression is at 176-180 psi. Started on 2nd kick and sucked a bunch of coolant down again and stalled out less than 10 seconds or so. It won't fire back up because the coolant is in the crankcase. I'm at a loss and have no idea where the problem is.

  6. #21
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    I’ve run into this a few times were their were hair line cracks in the cylinder / water jackets , only leaked under combustion .
    If your sure the head and cylinder are mating good ?
    Are you using an OEM or Oem style head gasket the thick one ?
    Some of them aftermarket ones are junk .
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  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by shortline10 View Post
    I’ve run into this a few times were their were hair line cracks in the cylinder / water jackets , only leaked under combustion .
    If your sure the head and cylinder are mating good ?
    Are you using an OEM or Oem style head gasket the thick one ?
    Some of them aftermarket ones are junk .
    Yeah im starting to question whether the top end is good, passes leak down tests and has good compression, but fails under combustion. I used the Honda oem head gasket the first time and this time I used the metal tusk head gasket. Both gave me the same result.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmcollector View Post
    Yeah im starting to question whether the top end is good, passes leak down tests and has good compression, but fails under combustion. I used the Honda oem head gasket the first time and this time I used the metal tusk head gasket. Both gave me the same result.
    When you say leak down test, I assume you are referring to a crank case pressure test NOT an four stroke leak down? Secondly, if you are performing a crank case pressure test what are you pumping the pressure up to and for how long?

    Have you performed a visual inspection of the cylinder for cracks? Your surfaces are either not flat enough or you have a crack somewhere.
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  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by yaegerb View Post
    When you say leak down test, I assume you are referring to a crank case pressure test NOT an four stroke leak down? Secondly, if you are performing a crank case pressure test what are you pumping the pressure up to and for how long?

    Have you performed a visual inspection of the cylinder for cracks? Your surfaces are either not flat enough or you have a crack somewhere.
    Yes, I am running a crank pressure test, pumping it up to 10 psi for 15 min-20 min just to make sure nothing is leaking. Nothing at all is lost and it holds exactly to what I pumped it up to. No, I didn't check the cylinder for cracks, just made sure it didn't have any scoring going on.

    Let's say the surfaces are not flat, wouldn't it leak out of the cylinder head once it's started just briefly because of the pressure?

    I guess im going to have to take it back off to inspect it for cracks.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmcollector View Post
    Yes, I am running a crank pressure test, pumping it up to 10 psi for 15 min-20 min just to make sure nothing is leaking. Nothing at all is lost and it holds exactly to what I pumped it up to. No, I didn't check the cylinder for cracks, just made sure it didn't have any scoring going on.

    Let's say the surfaces are not flat, wouldn't it leak out of the cylinder head once it's started just briefly because of the pressure?

    I guess im going to have to take it back off to inspect it for cracks.
    Yes, it should leak around the head gasket top deck mating surfaces. 10-15lbs? That's way too much. I am surprised you didn't blow your crank seals. You might want to check to ensure those are still seated.
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  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by yaegerb View Post
    Yes, it should leak around the head gasket top deck mating surfaces. 10-15lbs? That's way too much. I am surprised you didn't blow your crank seals. You might want to check to ensure those are still seated.
    No, 10 psi was the max for 15-20 min. I am getting no leaks anywhere around the head gasket mating surfaces. I am going to take it back off sometime this week to have a look for possible cracks in cylinder somewhere. If it has a hairline crack somewhere can a reboring be done or is the cylinder no good?

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmcollector View Post
    No, 10 psi was the max for 15-20 min. I am getting no leaks anywhere around the head gasket mating surfaces. I am going to take it back off sometime this week to have a look for possible cracks in cylinder somewhere. If it has a hairline crack somewhere can a reboring be done or is the cylinder no good?
    The crack would be in a water jacket or other aluminum area. Has really nothing to do with your iron sleeve. Take your time and look carefully. If you find the crack I would send to rob selvy as he can weld damn near anything on these engines.
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