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Thread: 250R keeps having coolant in crankcase.

  1. #1
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    250R keeps having coolant in crankcase.

    Morning all, I can't seem to get my 1985 250r running right, this is my second time replacing the head gasket. The reason I replaced it the first time is because it was overheating and the coolant was bubbling, after removing the top end there was coolant in the crankcase which led me to believe the head gasket was blown. After replacing the head gasket for a second time, it started on second kick and I got about 1-2 min of good run time, then with the radiator cap off while it was running briefly, it sucked down coolant and then started running really rough and then it stalled out. Attempting to kick start it after it stalled, it shot coolant out of the radiator. After removing the top end for a second time now, there is coolant in the crankcase again.


    Before all of this, I replaced the head gasket and torqued it back down to spec, a compression and a leak down test was performed both times. Leak down passed fine both times. Compression is at 176-180 both times. Cylinder was bored about 10 hours ago and it looks great and smooth and replaced with wiseco piston. Crankshaft is solid, no up and down movement. First time the head gasket was replaced it was replaced with oem metal head gasket, second time it was replaced it was replaced with tusk metal head gasket. Cylinder head has very low hours on it, but I did check it and it is flat with no gaps at all.

    I also replaced the water pump impeller with new seals and gaskets. Radiator was cleaned out to ensure nothing is in the way. New radiator cap as well.


    Not sure where else to go here. Any ideas would be appreciated.

  2. #2
    TexFest's Avatar
    TexFest is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Use some copper gasket spray on your head gasket maybe and see what happens?


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  3. #3
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    Yeah it was used on both head gaskets that I installed.

  4. #4
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    You need to either deck or hand lap your cylinder head/cylinder. See my how to below if you want to try hand lapping. Otherwise take it to a reputable machine shop.

    Lapping thread:

    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...+enlightenment
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by yaegerb View Post
    You need to either deck or hand lap your cylinder head/cylinder. See my how to below if you want to try hand lapping. Otherwise take it to a reputable machine shop.

    Lapping thread:

    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...+enlightenment
    Good info for sure, I took the head and cylinder off and brought the head inside on some granite. It is not flat, I was surprised being it has pretty low hours...but I guess you never know. Will get a feeler gauge. I ran a straight edge on the cylinder and it is off as well. I am going to follow your method you provided in your article and see if that works.

    I'm having trouble getting the stud bolts off, im doing the 2 nut method to try to get the studs to turn, but nothing. I don't want to use too much force so they don't break. Any tips for this problem?

  6. #6
    TexFest's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmcollector View Post
    Good info for sure, I took the head and cylinder off and brought the head inside on some granite. It is not flat, I was surprised being it has pretty low hours...but I guess you never know. Will get a feeler gauge. I ran a straight edge on the cylinder and it is off as well. I am going to follow your method you provided in your article and see if that works.

    I'm having trouble getting the stud bolts off, im doing the 2 nut method to try to get the studs to turn, but nothing. I don't want to use too much force so they don't break. Any tips for this problem?
    I used one of those bernzomatic torch with a yellow bottle and penetrating fluid to get studs out that wouldn’t budge


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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by shortline10 View Post
    I bought a stud extractor today at the hardware store, it didn't work. It's slipping when turning. I applied some heat and still nothing. The studs have been soaking in pb blaster as well but it's not helping.

  9. #9
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    Are you sure you bought the correct size m8 or possibly just a cheap one ?
    Mine will grab to the point were I could break the stud , never slips .
    78 atc 90/180cc Dickson Full Suspension
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by shortline10 View Post
    Are you sure you bought the correct size m8 or possibly just a cheap one ?
    Mine will grab to the point were I could break the stud , never slips .
    This is the one I bought from advance auto, says it grabs 6mm to 12mm. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...ud%20extractor

    The one you have is the one you gave me a link to?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmcollector View Post
    This is the one I bought from advance auto, says it grabs 6mm to 12mm. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...ud%20extractor
    The one off ebay can also be bought in a 4 piece set from a place like harbor freight if you have one local

    The only stud extractor I have seen that fits a range of diameters is one of these. https://aboloxtools.com/Williams-S-6...%20%7C%20%2433
    Last edited by sledcrazyinCT; 05-05-2021 at 07:16 PM.

  12. #12
    TexFest's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmcollector View Post
    I bought a stud extractor today at the hardware store, it didn't work. It's slipping when turning. I applied some heat and still nothing. The studs have been soaking in pb blaster as well but it's not helping.
    How long did you leave the heat on it? I heated it up for 5 minutes non stop


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  13. #13
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    Yes it’s similar to the one I sent you a link .
    They are definitely specific in size , 8mm only .
    The more pressure you put on it the tighter it gets , no slipping .
    78 atc 90/180cc Dickson Full Suspension
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    83 atc70/108cc Powroll blue Xmas Special
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by TexFest View Post
    How long did you leave the heat on it? I heated it up for 5 minutes non stop


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    I used about 1-2 min of heat, I will try it again with more heat and see what happens. If it doesn't remove it this time I will return the one I have and go with the KD Tools 8MM Stud Remover or something similar. I'm not seeing anything at Harbor Freight.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmcollector View Post
    I used about 1-2 min of heat, I will try it again with more heat and see what happens. If it doesn't remove it this time I will return the one I have and go with the KD Tools 8MM Stud Remover or something similar. I'm not seeing anything at Harbor Freight.
    Don’t go cheap on stud pullers. OTC makes a really nice set on Amazon.

    Sounds like you are finding out that your surfaces aren’t true. That happens after 30+ years of use. Also, your other problem with coolant in the crankcase. The only thing I can think of is that you mechanical water pump seal has failed. When installing them they are a 1 shot deal so if you don’t do it correctly you have to start all over. My guess is that’s where the coolant is coming from.
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