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Thread: 84 and 85 200M

  1. #46
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    Ok,

    1) personally I would weld up the hole or swap cases, but I'm very OCD. I've never liked helicoils. We use thread certs at work in those situations which are more stable than helicoils. That would be a very small helicoil, and a pain in the ass to install I would think, but I'm impatient and easily irritated

    2) there is a product that we use occasionally in situations like this where a customer plant can't afford to tear down a production line long enough to do a proper repair, so we have to do patch work. For something like that where the fastener isn't torqued much at all anyway, we used a product called Pig Putty. It's a two-part epoxy putty. They make several different kinds for several applications, so visit the website for the correct one. We have drilled and tapped the stuff with success in the past. The stuff is kind of expensive though. Metal impregnated. Works good in a pinch. I can't tell you how long those repairs lasted, but we haven't been called back to fix it again, yet

    The thing about drilling and tapping JB weld, is that JB is very hard so it chips/shatters under stress. So when you tap that, your threads are actually brittle and will break off easier if stressed, in our experience(yours may vary). The pig putty hardens very well and quickly, like JB, but not as brittle for threads, which is why we use the Pig or a similar product like Alumabond or Lab Metal(which are cheaper than Pig, fyi)

    JB Weld may even make a metalized product for this application that I'm not aware of. I'm just not experienced with anything they make other than the general use epoxy.

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  2. #47
    DDQ's Avatar
    DDQ is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    May 2015
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    Aberdeen, NC
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    Thanks for the advice. I am going to try this product for filling the hole and drilling and tapping. If it does not hold I will drill the material out and have it welded.
    I was not crazy about using a 1 part epoxy but it is rated 6000 psi compared to the similar JB weld product which is only rated around 900 psi.

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  3. #48
    DDQ's Avatar
    DDQ is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    I filled the hole and the cracks with quicksteel. I'll try to drill and tap it tomorrow. After referring to the manual, this damage part is not attached to the case permanently, it is the case spacer. If this does not work I can swap in the one off my parts motor without having to split the cases which is a relief.

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  4. #49
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
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    California
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    22
    How did it go? Have you managed to fix the issue?

  5. #50
    DDQ's Avatar
    DDQ is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    I decided to abandon the repair and replace the case spacer. I have the new spacer on but unfortunately ordered gaskets for a 200es which are different than the one I need. So, I'll be waiting another week to reassemble.

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  6. #51
    BarnBoy is offline Just Too Addicted Arm chair racerJust too addicted
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    For future reference if you end up in a situation where you need to repair a crack like that, make sure you drill the ends of the crack to "end" it. Relieves the stress and the crack won't continue to spread. Otherwise it'll spread past and crack your repair.
    1984 HONDA ATC200M - OG, mid-restoration
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  7. #52
    DDQ's Avatar
    DDQ is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Quote Originally Posted by BarnBoy View Post
    For future reference if you end up in a situation where you need to repair a crack like that, make sure you drill the ends of the crack to "end" it. Relieves the stress and the crack won't continue to spread. Otherwise it'll spread past and crack your repair.
    Ah, just like I do with cracks in plastic. I didn't think about doing it with metal. Thanks.

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  8. #53
    DDQ's Avatar
    DDQ is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    I replaced the case spacer and that issue is fixed. However, after snugging up the head nuts the base gasket is still leaking. I'll be pulling the motor out and taking the top end off. Again.
    I plan to use rtv on both sides of the gasket this time.

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  9. #54
    DDQ's Avatar
    DDQ is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    The leak appears to have been at the seam where the cases meet. My razor blade got hung up there so I don't think it was perfectly flat. I hope the rtv I used will seal it. Tomorrow I just need to install the ignition then put the motor back in.

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  10. #55
    DDQ's Avatar
    DDQ is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Back together and no leak. I'm done with it!

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  11. #56
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
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    Edmond, KS
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    So now it's time to ride, ride, ride.

  12. #57
    jasong_10's Avatar
    jasong_10 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Not to change the subject, but that seat on the 350x has to be the tallest I've ever seen, lol.
    Jason

    85 ATC 250R - restored stock other than 18" rears, nerf bars, Honda key switch, 14T front sprocket, and white tank and plastics (except rad shrouds)

    87 ATC 200X - restored stock other than 18" rears and nerf bars

    84 TRX 200 - rough but complete budget restore for wife and eventually daughters to bum around on

    Eton Viper 50cc - oldest daughter's current ride

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