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Thread: 84 and 85 200M

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATC King View Post
    Heating the plastic won't bring it back with that much surface damage.

    What I tend to do with plastic like that is sand as much of the damaged surface off as possible and work through grits until something the surface is relatively smooth, but not polished. Then I paint it. With as much UV damage as there appears to be, it'd probably be unwise to try and sand it all out because the fender would become very thin.

    There are high quality automotive paints and adhesion promoters that'll stick and last well, along with looking very nice. Or, you can use the spray can plastic paints by the typical brands, like Rustoleum and Krylon. I use the cheap stuff because it holds up decently enough and I'm going to scratch it anyway, while riding in the woods. If the paint is a pretty good match for the plastic, the scratches don't show up too bad. It when getting creative, like painting all the red plastic, lime green, that the scratches show up like bloody wounds.

    The paint will protect the plastic from further UV damage too. I've got some trashed fenders that were painted years ago, and they've just been sitting in the sun since replaced. They are still flexible/not brittle.
    Thanks for the reply. I was under the impression that any spray paint on plastic will quickly crack due to amount of flexing that fenders do. Can I get the paint you are referring to at an autoparts store?

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  2. #32
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    Sorry for the 3 week delay. I was waiting on the cylinder to be bored. I picked it up tonight.
    Ring gap is 0.011"

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  3. #33
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    .

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  4. #34
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    Still 'grinding' away on this build

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  5. #35
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    One of the valves was very worn so I ordered a new pair from Shindy. After installing them I've run in to a problem getting the last dowel in to place. I tried more than one dowel but can't get any to even start. I don't see any damage or any reason for the dowel to not go in the hole. Any suggestions?

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  6. #36
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    I made alot of progress today. I am close to trying to start it. I need to get the rusty exhaust bolts off the donor bike so I can get the muffler.

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  7. #37
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    I finished putting it together. It runs and rides great but unfortunately it is leaking oil from the base gasket and also the top bolt hole for the pull start cover. I used a new oring when putting the new base gasket in just like the manual said so I'm very disheartened.
    I have no clue why oil would be coming out of this bolt hole either.

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  8. #38
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    I've had that happen on a different machine, but I started putting a dab of sealant on my base gaskets where they meet the seam between the cases and I've never had that issue again. Sometimes I'll lightly diamond file the seam beforehand too

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  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironchop View Post
    I've had that happen on a different machine, but I started putting a dab of sealant on my base gaskets where they meet the seam between the cases and I've never had that issue again. Sometimes I'll lightly diamond file the seam beforehand too

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    Thanks for that idea. I snugged up the head nuts and will see if that stops the leak first, before pulling the motor again.
    For the recoil cover bolt hole leak, should a new stator cover gasket fix that?

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  10. #40
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    The stator bolt leak is probably from someone putting to long of a bolt and blew out the back of the case .
    A new gasket and a 6mm copper crush washer on that bolt should fix the problem .
    Or a cheap fix is to clean the threads on the bolt and case and use a sealant when you bolt the case back together .
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  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by shortline10 View Post
    The stator bolt leak is probably from someone putting to long of a bolt and blew out the back of the case .
    A new gasket and a 6mm copper crush washer on that bolt should fix the problem .
    Or a cheap fix is to clean the threads on the bolt and case and use a sealant when you bolt the case back together .
    Thanks for the tip. My new gasket should be in Friday. I'll pull the cover and have a look this weekend

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  12. #42
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    Here is the cause of the leak...the case is cracked. I REALLY don't want to tear this down and swap cases.

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  13. #43
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    What if I clean the surface of the cracks really well and cover with jb weld?

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  14. #44
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    Not sure on cracks. I bet it's dependent on whether or not JB Weld expands at the same rate as aluminum cases. I've only used the stuff in the past to fill case holes from chain derails on motors I considered clapped out, but running good but not worth messing with, so I could keep riding.

    I'm much older now and more OCD about my stuff, so it would get sold or torn down

    I guess you have to decide if you want to patch it or tear it down and fix it forever.

    The other thing to consider is that the crack being in a bolt hole will open that hole up a little and make it easier to strip out from working on the machine. Most fasteners, best case, make about 70%-ish contact between the threads at that interface between bolt and bolt hole. Just something to consider

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  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironchop View Post
    Not sure on cracks. I bet it's dependent on whether or not JB Weld expands at the same rate as aluminum cases. I've only used the stuff in the past to fill case holes from chain derails on motors I considered clapped out, but running good but not worth messing with, so I could keep riding.

    I'm much older now and more OCD about my stuff, so it would get sold or torn down

    I guess you have to decide if you want to patch it or tear it down and fix it forever.

    The other thing to consider is that the crack being in a bolt hole will open that hole up a little and make it easier to strip out from working on the machine. Most fasteners, best case, make about 70%-ish contact between the threads at that interface between bolt and bolt hole. Just something to consider

    Sent from my motorola one 5G ace using Tapatalk
    After further inspection it looks like this hole was stripped and someone tried to force a larger sae bolt in to it.
    I do have a spare motor ith a bad crank with good cases but I want that to be a last resort.

    The things I am considering are:

    1. Cleaning the hole with brake cleaner, filling the hole with JB weld drilling/tapping it for the correct bolt.
    2. JB weld over the cracks then drill the hole and install a helicoil.
    3. Taking the machine to a welder who can do cast aluminum, have him weld the cracks then drill and install helicoil.

    Any thoughts on those?


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