350x not shifting into N when running.

[Jim mac]

when my trike is running, I can't get the thing to shift into neutral. I can get 1st or pop it up into 2nd. I push down and it pops into 1st. I tried adjusting the clutch cable also tried slowing the idle down.
when riding, it shift fine thru the gears, just won't go into N, shut it off and no problems going to N.
Try adjusting the clutch a little more? jim

[350for350]

My 85 does the same thing. It's a real pain to get into neutral with the engine running while standing still. If I can help it, I try to shift into neutral while still rolling. It sure seems to help. I'm not sure that playing with the clutch adjustment will help. I just accept it.

[Jim mac]

had a guy with a 250r tell me his r does the same thing. jim

[ironchop]

My R does that. I have to rock it back and forth while letting the clutch out a little, for it to find the half notch for neutral

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[jasong_10]

My R does it too, I have had to train myself to shift into neutral while I'm still coasting to a stop instead of after I stop.

[shortline10]

Your clutch baskets are worn , the clutch plates over time make groves in the basket causing the clutch to drag and not release completely which makes it hard to go into neutral .
Solution it to either buy a new basket or file the groves out , the file method only works if it’s not to bad .

[ironchop]

Your clutch baskets are worn , the clutch plates over time make groves in the basket causing the clutch to drag and not release completely which makes it hard to go into neutral .
Solution it to either buy a new basket or file the groves out , the file method only works if it’s not to bad .

I'm not sure what's up with mine then. My basket was almost new with no grooves. I'm not doubting you're correct, I'm just saying that's not what my issue is. It's there any other possible reason, Mike?

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[El Camexican]

Besides what Shortline said which is probably true for 90% or more of you with this issue, there are a few other things to check if his suggestion doesn’t clear it up.

Warped steel clutch plates will also make it difficult to find neutral. I’ve found that aftermarket steel plates are more likely to be out of spec than OEM when new, but even new OEM plates can be out of spec. Look the spec up in your manual and follow the procedures. Use a light hand, cheating by pressing the warp out of the plate might save you $8 bucks, but it won’t fix your clutch.

If you aren’t using 100% OEM parts, like clutch perches, clutch levers, or hand grips you may have shortened your clutch throw. Something as simple as a thicker hand grip might be preventing you from fully opening your clutch. Look at everything, the hole in the clutch lever could have become oval shaped over time and that would also shorten the throw. It all adds up.

As far as adjustments are concerned, you want the least amount of play in the lever as possible while still allowing the clutch pack to close when cold.

It takes a fair bit of force to remove all the slack from the moving parts before the clutch pack actually starts to open. To get a feel for this you can usually open the oil filler plug and get a finger inside (with the engine off) and touch the clutch. With your finger in place, pull the clutch lever slowly with your other hand and you’ll be able to see the slack that is still available to be removed from the cable which will go a long way towards helping you find neutral at idle.

Clean oil helps too.

[ironchop]

I got all OEM new fibers and steels so that's not it.

I just don't think my foot, in boots or shoes, is capable of readily and easily finding that half notch. If I grab the shifter with my free hand, I can find it almost every time

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[shortline10]

Their are other things like worn shift forks and drum
, worn clutch basket main bearing .
I’m not a fan of heavy transmission oil either , it drags the clutch plates and can cause the neutral issue as well .

[Jim mac]

my trike does have a different cable, clutch lever and post. that might also be a factor. jim

[El Camexican]

my trike does have a different cable, clutch lever and post. that might also be a factor. jim

If the center of the pivot bolt on the perch is closer to the handle bar than stock, or your lever has a bend that bottoms against the hand grip sooner that the stocker you may have found your problem(s).

It might be a pita, but if you could remove the left grip and try finding neutral without the grip in place it would tell you if either are the issue,

[Jim mac]

I've got another 350x almost all stock I can get measurements from. jim

[TSpencer]

Not to hijack the thread but I am experiencing a similar issue with my 2007 YZ450F conversion. It happened after I changed the oil. Thing shifted into N no problem when I first bought it. I changed the oil and it will not go in when running. Used Yamalube 4 stroke oil. Since this model is a wet clutch I tried Motul thinking it may make a difference. It did not. Shifts fine, just stopped going in to N when running after the oil change. Any ideas why it was fine then stated having difficulty after an oil change? Oil is at the correct level. Thanks!

[shortline10]

Probably just a coincidence on the oil change .
I have seen were heavier weight oil was used and it will cause more drag on the clutch plates causing your issue .
95% of the time hard neutrals are worn clutch baskets .
A high idle Will also make it harder to find neutral .