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Thread: Newbie 85 Tri-Z help

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
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    I solved this problem on an 1980 tri moto 125, by using an over sized o ring from a standard o ring set. It was very tight but it didn't leak. that is probably going to be your best option.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxx View Post
    Kool, finally got a leak down tester and started the process but i cant for the life of me stop the reed valve from leaking. I've tried new gaskets and even smoothing all surfaces but dam thing refuses to seal. Maybe i will need to apply sum gasket goo or something similar?


    Attachment 268083
    So assuming that you’re using soap and water to locate the leak, where exactly are you seeing bubbles? If they’re just in a few spots the surface of the intake runner may have warped when they were welding it, or there could be a hair line crack around one of the bolt holes.

    You can check for and fix an uneven surface by stuffing the intake with a rag to keep crud out and running a large (1”), fine flat-bast*rd file across the mounting surface with event pressure in an x pattern. It may help to paint it up with a Sharpie first to contrast the low points. If it’s a crack, JB Weld should take care of it.

    Using a thin smear of case sealer, Yamabond, or whatever you used on you cases on both sides of the gasket won’t hurt, but check for the warp first as sealers can only do so much.

    Whatever you do, don’t run it with a leak.
    Last edited by El Camexican; 09-08-2021 at 07:48 AM.
    F**K ZUCK!

  3. #18
    Maxx is offline New to the board Arm chair racerNew to the board
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    Awesome thanks guys, sorry i didnt realise we were on page two lol...yeah half my problem was a faulty regulator the other half was stupidity lol...i had too much pressure in the system. I block sanded the surfaces and applied a smear of some threebond sealer on the leaking seals and used a different guage and setting and hey presto success....so happy i didnt stuff more....onwards and upwards from here...last parts are almost here for final assembly ...ive binned the 390 main jet for a 480 for starters

    My m8 who honed the jug suggested to also run the bike with water only, no antifreeze, the 1st time until up to normal temp, let it cool completely then re-torque the head and cylinder nuts before draining and refilling with antifreeze mixture...seems plausible to me

    Any ideas on the oil ratio mix for the break in period?

    Thanks again for all your help guys, its so valuable and hugely appreciated

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxx View Post
    Awesome thanks guys, sorry i didnt realise we were on page two lol...yeah half my problem was a faulty regulator the other half was stupidity lol...i had too much pressure in the system. I block sanded the surfaces and applied a smear of some threebond sealer on the leaking seals and used a different guage and setting and hey presto success....so happy i didnt stuff more....onwards and upwards from here...last parts are almost here for final assembly ...ive binned the 390 main jet for a 480 for starters

    My m8 who honed the jug suggested to also run the bike with water only, no antifreeze, the 1st time until up to normal temp, let it cool completely then re-torque the head and cylinder nuts before draining and refilling with antifreeze mixture...seems plausible to me

    Any ideas on the oil ratio mix for the break in period?

    Thanks again for all your help guys, its so valuable and hugely appreciated
    Can’t go wrong with anything between 20:1 and 32:1 for brake in. After that go with whatever the oil can says. 32:1 up to 50:1. Thinner than that is pushing it even on trails.
    F**K ZUCK!

  5. #20
    Maxx is offline New to the board Arm chair racerNew to the board
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    Thanks bro...appreciate that (screenshot for future reference lol)...got another question though, looks like you guys have been thru this issue before, reading up on the posts here...the DG exhaust.


    Mine arrived yesterday and looks mint, only issue i have is because this bike was past its use by date when i found it, it only had one exhaust spring.
    I see by other posts i will need to fab atleast one (missing) maybe two tabs for the cylinder base nuts and get a decent exhaust gasket (not the thin one that came in the head gasket kit) but what length springs do you use. I cant be confident the one existing spring i have is correct. Currently the gap between the top two mounting rings is 90mm (with no gasket) so was thinking a 75mm spring...?

    Also i see some rides have a rubber ring grooved into the exhaust snout or could this be introduced onto something like a sleeve? Was thinking ali tube 55mm i/d (snout size) with 58mm o/d (dg exhaust i/d size)? Just seems like alot of gap play in between the two...again it could be something else I've got missing here ...?

    Where the expansion chamber mounts to the frame is slighty out but fabricating some sort of bracket there shouldn't be too difficult once i get these springs sorted.


    Cheers guys
    M

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
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    You’re going to need an exhaust collar. It’s basically a really thin metal shield that slips over top of the snout, or spigot of your cylinder and then your pipe slides over that compressing the little gasket you got, which should work just fine, but I like to smear a little bit of silicone around there anyway just to delay the inevitable seepage.

    Yamaha stopped making those collars a long time ago, but there is a member on here who goes by muthey that makes a couple different styles including one that comes with an O-ring. They’re not cheap in terms of how many kilograms of steel you’re getting for your money, but they are well-made and you do need one and I’m sure they take a long time to make.

    I suggest running two spring tabs on your cylinder base as well as the third one that’s cast into the cylinder above the exhaust. There’s a guy selling them for 15 bucks each here on the part store, but you can make them with a grinder snd a drill.

    With respect to the springs, I’m not sure I can help you. I seem to have a lot of grief finding the correct springs for my Tri-Z as well as other bikes. The ones that you find on the Internet made by Raven don’t seem to fit anything I have very well. For some reason 50 mm, and 70 mm springs seem to be common, but 60 mm springs, which seem to fit a lot of my stuff, are something you have to search for on eBay and end up paying a pretty stiff price for and I doubt that all three of your springs are going to end up being the same length. I don’t have a DG pipe on my trike right now, so I can’t offer you any help, but maybe somebody else will chime in.

    Worst case scenario, you order some Raven packages of 50, 70, 80 mm and then try to find yourself some 60 mm. If you can get your hands on three of each length you’ll probably be able to make something work and then have spares for the future.

    As far as the fitment of the brackets goes, welcome to the wonderful world of mass produced 2 strokes exhaust pipes. There’s just too many variables in the fabrication process for them to get these perfect and still keep them at a reasonable price. Try to keep your adjustments limited to the brackets even if you have to do some grinding to open up the holes. The less stress you can put on the pipe and its connection to your cylinder when mounted the better.
    Last edited by El Camexican; 09-13-2021 at 08:55 AM.
    F**K ZUCK!

  7. #22
    Maxx is offline New to the board Arm chair racerNew to the board
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    Thats excellent, thank you El Camexican, gives me heaps to go on. Having a butchered job to start with its like two step forward, one step back to get this thing sorted. Previous owner really did a job on this port not running a gasket at all with what looks like a homemade exhaust arch welded together (omg some people lol)

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    The front edges of the port now are burred over abit, need to get my dremel in there to fix that. Making a couple of brackets for that cylinder bolts seems an easy enough task, cause the worst thing of being down here at the bottom of the world is the shipping cost and ofcourse customs want their cut of anything coming into the country. (Exhaust alone cost me $850 nz bucks to my door, )

    As for the sleeve im grateful you have pointed me in the right direction, thanks, it didnt make alot of sense with that much play so i must have been missing something. I will try a few places around here for the right size pipe, might need it machined for that groove, worst case scenario a piece of 2mm steel rolled into the sleeve shape may well do the job (fingers crossed)

    Local bike shop here has springs at different lenghts about $3 each so now knowing I can use a combination of different ones to get this right is invaluable.

    Making up the mounting brackets for the rest of the exhaust will come down to trial and error. All of the original ones are long gone as well so making exactly what I need will another little challenge. I might try the local wreakers for maybe yz parts but then again fabrication looks like any easier option.

    Thanks again my friend, i will keep you posted on the progress.

    Maxx

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mexico
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    Yeah, that’s what happens when people run the pipe without the collar, but I’ve seen worse. Muthey’s is really tight, so if you go that route and have an exterior burr it will need to come off.

    2mm strap would be way too thick. Maybe some brass shim stock if that’s your only option. Using nothing will damage the cylinder even more and piss oil all over the place.

    You paid how much for that pipe???

    So the good news is that because you have no chrome to worry about, you can bolt that pipe on as stressed out as you want and then just take a torch and heat the pipe red hot all the way around in a few spots and all the stress will come out of the pipe. It will fit like a glove for the rest of its life. Just remember that you’ll probably need to heat it up somewhere around the head cone before it reaches the expansion chamber and then again somewhere between the mount on the expansion chamber and again near the stinger mount.
    Last edited by El Camexican; 09-14-2021 at 07:13 PM.
    F**K ZUCK!

  9. #24
    Maxx is offline New to the board Arm chair racerNew to the board
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    Kool mate, that photo was the old piece of crap that was on it originally....(was just showing what this other guy ran with, swiss cheese) i got the DG extreme nickel plated one from dennis kirk.


    I tried a few exhaust shops but no luck with the correct size pipe there so i had a chat to my mate who does sheetmetal work he said he could roll me a peice of 2mm steel, tig the seam then machine a groove it for a rubber ring for $40 (might be an option there). The snout measures 54.6mm and exhaust is 58.9mm giving me 4.3mm difference which im hoping with the rubber and exhaust sealent make up the difference...though 1.7mm or 1.8mm might be better...i will have to see what thickness he has available.

    Still working on the springs but i will clean up the burring first to get a snug measurement and fitting.

    Cheers

    M
    Last edited by Maxx; 09-13-2021 at 10:16 PM.

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