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Thread: 1984 Honda 200X Rescue

  1. #121
    Join Date
    May 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by 207wheelin View Post
    I once needed an expensive line for a hydraulic clutch on a Jeep. Think it was 180 bucks for a 2ft line. I only paid 50 bucks for the truck and wanted to keep my costs low. Welllll....I went to a shop that specializes in hydraulics hose and they reused the fittings on that line and replaced the dried out rubber. Cost about 20 bucks. Maybe call some hose specialists and see if they can help?
    Just a thought.
    Be well everyone
    207
    Thank you 207.

    After a couple more boilings...still the same.....nothing.

    I'm going to soak at least one end in acid for awhile because one side nothing ever oozes out. Maybe it's corroded closed.

  2. #122
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    Arkansas
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    Are the line ends 10mm?

    There's all kinds of different length and end angle brake hoses sold on Ebay and Amazon. It's pretty easy to get the braided stainless ones too, but I stay away from those because the clear plastic coating tends to yellow with time.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  3. #123
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    May 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATC King View Post
    Are the line ends 10mm?

    There's all kinds of different length and end angle brake hoses sold on Ebay and Amazon. It's pretty easy to get the braided stainless ones too, but I stay away from those because the clear plastic coating tends to yellow with time.
    Thanks for that King.... I never thought of that

    I just checked..…. Why in the hell am I wasting all this time and effort and aggravation when I can get one of these for $10 shipped to my door!?!?

    Size matches up pretty close… it's only about 2" longer than what I have.. I think I could make it work....thanks again!

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/11-in-78-in...-127632-2357-0

  4. #124
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    May 2015
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    The bar ends and clutch perch came in today.

    Assembled them all on the bars and put it aside until it's ready to be installed. It's nice to have sections and components completed and ready to be installed when you get to that point….. vs getting to that point then scrambling to do it. It's just my method.

    Looking at those mirror mounts...... it would be nice to get it street legal. I remember starting a thread in the past after I saw a 250R street legal at a local car show. I felt the easiest way was to get a street bike… or bike registered for the street and turn it into a trike versus getting an ATC and make it street legal....but there was this R pining away.

    $8 for the bar ends and $11 for the clutch perch brings my total to $874.





















  5. #125
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    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
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    If you'd like a mirror regardless of street use, the Ken Sean 970511 folding mirror works pretty well.

    They're a little bit tough to get the tension on the spring adjusted just right, but once dialed in they work pretty good. Not exactly the best out there as far as staying put at high speed or rough terrain, but better than many and much less bulky than some. Going fast, the rider shouldn't be looking behind that much anyway, so on slower group rides I like the mirror for making sure nobody one or two places behind me gets dropped so the whole group doesn't have to stop while someone backtracks.

    I keep silicone spray on the rubber boots and they hold up better than not, and don't leave them folded when stored. Can use on left and right side and adjust to look past shoulder or under the arm. They have lots of adjustment and when up, they swing away easy enough to resist breaking if hit.

    When new, it's a good idea to disasemble the mechanism, then clean and grease it. They'll work a little better doing that. I almost forgot, but the threads are a pretty common size. The Chinese front brake lever on my 185S was the correct thread to work with the Ken Sean.

    A little trick to getting them to stay put at faster speeds is to adjust it to your liking with the stem fully moved against the barrel. In other words, resting against the barrel instead of centered in it an just floating around.
    Last edited by ATC King; 01-27-2022 at 06:18 PM.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  6. #126
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    May 2015
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    Finally got the hose cleared. It took many boilings and a little soaking in the acid on one end but it's clear.

    Also ended up plating that one end that was sitting in the acid and a few of the other brake tidbits. I don't have any olive chromates so it's going to stay like this. I know it's not OEM looking but it's not a bucket of rusty/corroded crap either........ which was my main goal.


    The bake hose may get the other end plated before this is all over.











  7. #127
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    May 2015
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    It's getting naked.....just about ready to remove the motor for overhaul.

    I can't remember where I was mentally when I started this rescue. I knew I didn't want to paint...and I didn't want to spend a lot because a lot was unknown. Now that I have a better understanding of what the motor needs and as things have progressed along…. I'm considering refinishing the frame and the swing arm. All the motor needs is to be sealed up….. new gaskets & seals… and probably new piston rings. That can all be accomplished with the motor in the frame. My initial intention was once the motor was removed.....give it a real thorough cleaning....all the corners and crevices of the frame and swing arm and then polish/buff out the best I can…. To give it some shine. But now.....as I look around I see rust and faded paint.....seems like a quick paint job would solve all that. It shouldn't break my budget. At the current $875 mark… in my head I probably have another $300 on engine parts and sourcing a new muffler.....which would bring me to $1175.

    If I decided to paint it I would use a base clear system for a couple of reasons. 1... I probably have a quart to a quart and a 1/2 sprayable leftover clear from previous projects. It's getting old and should be used so that would take care of the clear. 2....I also have a can of Eastwood Argent rally wheel paint which is not full but pretty close...and also pretty close to the swing arm in color. That would leave me with purchasing the base color and reducer. I would purchase only a pint because a pint makes one quart sprayable. I could almost give a small car one coat with a quart so it should be fine.

    I wouldn't strip it/sand blast it down to bare metal....it doesn't need it. It's not gonna be some show piece and with the exception of the areas of rust and fade that would require a sealer....... the rest of it would just need to be scuffed up a little.....the base coat shouldn't lift anything. All in all probably $70 for the base, reducer and sealer.

    We will see.


















  8. #128
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    Apr 2014
    Location
    Edmond, KS
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    It's amazing how deep the rabbit hole gets once you start inside. Sometimes it's hard to know when to quit.

  9. #129
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    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
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    If you're trying to rationalize any of the painting, the first purpose of paint is to protect the base material.

    It'd be a good idea to at least hit all the steel parts with a fresh coat. In industrial applications, it's not uncommon to carry a can of spray paint with the vehicle to touch-up scratches and scrapes. One of the reasons for implement/tractor paint.

    Rust is easier to prevent than repair.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  10. #130
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    May 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by 350for350 View Post
    It's amazing how deep the rabbit hole gets once you start inside. Sometimes it's hard to know when to quit.
    That's true.....and how quickly things add up.

    This sprocket is worn. Now for the complete set up it's an additional $70 that I wasn't planning on.

    Still to me there's a lot more than just getting it to run…… like that front suspension. I'm sure it's tired after nearly 40 years of service so to do it right would be about an additional $130. But when there's new fork seals and new fork fluid and new springs and the proper preload and air pressure… along with the new front tire and new neck bearings.... it begins to act and feel like a new bike. And that's way more than just getting it running.

    But I don't think I have room in my budget for all that.


    When you get things on the cheap....they nearly always end up being way more in cost...to do it correctly.






  11. #131
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    Jul 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by knappyfeet View Post





    If could have been much worse...it could have been welded on.

    Did some memories build a mental image for that?


    Isn't that an OEM front sprocket too? I don't know of any aftermarket ones that have the rubber ring.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  12. #132
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    Apr 2014
    Location
    Edmond, KS
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    Unfortunately a good chain and sprocket set is a requirement. If you happen to have a chain slip off of a worn sprocket while riding, it could cost you more than your original budget was. I just look at chains and sprockets the same way as I do tires. Every new-to-me trike will need to have them replaced.

  13. #133
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    May 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATC King View Post
    If could have been much worse...it could have been welded on.
    I've done that to a moped before.

    Here's the initial picture I received via text that started all this nonsense.

    Everything that's happened so far was no surprise. Based on that pic I threw out the $500 number. I was told the tires would hold air and it would run. Tires did not hold air...no surprise...but I was surprised that it started fairly easy after years of neglect. All the leaky seals and gaskets were no surprise either. The only thing I was hoping for was to be able to save the exhaust and based on the picture I thought I could. I then found out the entire exhaust was shot and unsalvageable.

    I also knew it would nickel and dime me to death.......but even with that the $1500 budget still seems doable.






    Sent from my SM-T970 using Tapatalk

  14. #134
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    May 2015
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    Is this anyone here?

    Are these motors worth $2000 rebuilt?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-Honda-...-127632-2357-0

  15. #135
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    Apr 2014
    Location
    Edmond, KS
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    Seems like it's a little bit on the steep side. Maybe a lot on the steep side. The listing says that there's over $500 in parts and machine work. I can buy that part. So the labor was 15 hours for $1700? He's wanting to get $113/hr for his labor? Seems like he wants to use Ebay for more than just a little bit of extra income over the winter.

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