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Thread: 1982 ATC 200 revival project (First 3-wheeler Project)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2022
    Location
    NW Ohio
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    3

    Post 1982 ATC 200 revival project (First 3-wheeler Project)

    i got an old trike and it doesnt start. So i did the normal start up tactics, spark check-strong, ether-2-3 quick sprays pull- nothing , carb and gas tank removal and clean still nothing fuel lines-i can blow through them and still nothing, air box check, check to see if everything is tightened, checked cam chain timing and it was all good there. So now im pulling the motor so i can maneuver quicker around and get deeper. Taking out the engine the muffler/silincer rusted in half,now im welding up a straight pipe slip on instead of the muffler. ive got the engine out and noticed an exhaust thread pulled all the thread out the jug. i drilled and tapped a new hole along with a new stud fashioned from a bolt. I took a look inside the header and the factory weld for the couple was a caterpillar. I filed that down to closer match the port for very mildly better flow. Todays Project is pulling the head and checking cylinder wall condition and possibly get the jug pulled for atleast inspection and go from there. Im new to the three wheeler world but these motors are 5x nicer and easier than any modern riding mower ive worked on. Ill post some pictures soon with update. If anyone has any recommendations for any tips to make this bike better im open to ideas, but i like to keep things on the cheaper spectrum so no race gas level of performance please. I plan on a larger rear gear ,a few jets to try, rings (depending on jug condition ,a piston,if so what should i get?), clutch rebuild, cam chain assembly rebuild. Also Are there any cams that offer a noticeable amount for cheap(>75$)? Thanks for your time and happy trails
    Last edited by DoodlebugTrails; 01-16-2022 at 01:41 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Edmond, KS
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    2,531
    It's probably too late now, but you should do a compression check first. Also check your valve clearances before you tear the engine apart. Too loose or too tight of valve clearances will make it not start. The only cam that I know of would be if you could find a used 83-85 200X cam. I don't know how much of a difference that would make. Since you're going to run a straight pipe for the exhaust, you will need to jet quite a bit richer to make up for the extra flow. That will probably make a bigger difference than a used 200X cam anyway.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2022
    Location
    NW Ohio
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    3
    i haven't been able to tear the head off yet since the starter cover screw is hogged out from one of the last owners. The Valves were .007 in/.008 exh. I did a comp test this morning and it read 79 psi with a slip on briggs muffler for some back pressure. Im already getting rings so this just helps confirm some suspicions, yet i still need to see the condition of the jug and more before i order parts. I've got the carb off and noticed it was a HUAGUANG pz27, a knock off keihin. ill be getting a 14$ jet kit and a pod filter atleast for the exhaust. I have to navigate 18-22 inches of swamp at times so squeezing in anything extra is nice. Ill look out for an 83-85 200x cam, Thanks for the help 350for350

    edit: This carb is eaten alive XD, non-existent gaskets, rust everywhere, float bowl looks like it smoked for 40 years. Ill be replacing with a 24mm flat slide for 30 bucks with jets (105-125 main ; 38-41 pilot) with pod filter 13$
    Last edited by DoodlebugTrails; 01-17-2022 at 08:58 AM. Reason: update

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Edmond, KS
    --
    2,531
    Your valve clearances seem like they're on high high side. Too much clearance. That means that the valves aren't opening far enough and may be at least part of the low compression numbers. Also, when you did the compression test, did you hold the throttle open? It does make a difference.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2022
    Location
    NW Ohio
    --
    3
    No i did not, but i did have the choke open. I took the spark advancer housing cover and there chunks of metal in the bottom of it on top of the inside being rust red. That being said im scared more part are damaged in the head.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Edmond, KS
    --
    2,531
    My guess would be that those metal pieces are what's left of the advancer springs. Even being rust red colored, if the magnet and the pick up are clean, that should be good enough for it all to make spark. My 1983 185S is that way. Throttle open vs closed got me a 60 PSI higher compression reading on the 1985 YTM225DR that I used to have. That may not mean much in your case, but it is my example.

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