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Thread: 1983 ATC 200 engine/transmission rebuild cost expectations?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    College Station, Texas
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    32

    1983 ATC 200 engine/transmission rebuild cost expectations?

    I have a 1983 ATC 200 that has given tons of smiles and been rode hard. She is old, leaking oil, slipping through the gears, noisy and as of tonight, died and won’t start anymore. But, paint and plastics are in amazing shape, and I use it almost everyday, so I’m going to fix it. I have checked basic stuff: fuel, spark and air, and still no start on pull. Cam chain got extremely loud over the past several months. Regardless, instead of messing with it I just want to do the full rebuild she deserves. looking to squeeze a bit more power out of her if I can. I have already bought a bigger carb recommended by four stroke tech. Also ordering a DC rcm exhaust tonight. And was leaning to buying this head/ sleeve and piston kit from mrtwistedwheelersworld.com.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/25572361469...mis&media=COPY

    With that said, what should I expect to pay for the rebuild while providing these parts, and fixing the sliping through all gears as well. Just trying to get a feel for what is fair and not.

    Also open to any other recommendations on the build.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Manheim, PA
    --
    5,742
    Grand if done right full motor rebuild

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Edmond, KS
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    2,531
    I have no idea about the quality of that kit. Maybe it's good, maybe it's not. Here's a few things to keep in mind. I've seen a lot of people say that they've had bad experiences with buying things from Mr. Twisted Wheeler. His reputation isn't great. In the description of the lit you listed, he says that his piston is 10.5:1 on compression. Fine. Then it says that stock compression is "9-8-1". I assume that's supposed to mean that the stock compression ratio is 9.8:1, but that's wrong. The stock compression ration is 7.8:1 and it even says so right here on the home page listed in the Honda specifications. Next it says that this kit will not fit a ATC200X, but doesn't list a reason why. I know that it won't work on a '86/7 200X, but I don't know why it wouldn't work on a '83-'85 200X. With all of this in mind, I, personally, would steer clear of that particular kit. On fact, I would buy the next oversized piston and have your current cylinder bored to fit it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2023
    Location
    Florida Panhandle
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    10
    You could also try to find an ATC 200 with a beat up body and take the engine and tranny from it. But there are the obvious risks associated with that. I just brought back a 250sx. After sitting, the body was garbage, but the sealed motor and tranny were fine (ish).

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Manheim, PA
    --
    5,742
    everythings 40 years old, you guys think the stuffs in good shape yet lol. Fix what you have lol. I buy two typicay to make one out of. I just did a warrior motor for a guy and we went thru 3 bottom ends to get all the parts he needed.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2023
    Location
    Earth
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    78
    Put a China engine in it for about 400 bucks save yourself the time and money rebuilding.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    College Station, Texas
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    32
    Quote Originally Posted by 350for350 View Post
    I have no idea about the quality of that kit. Maybe it's good, maybe it's not. Here's a few things to keep in mind. I've seen a lot of people say that they've had bad experiences with buying things from Mr. Twisted Wheeler. His reputation isn't great. In the description of the lit you listed, he says that his piston is 10.5:1 on compression. Fine. Then it says that stock compression is "9-8-1". I assume that's supposed to mean that the stock compression ratio is 9.8:1, but that's wrong. The stock compression ration is 7.8:1 and it even says so right here on the home page listed in the Honda specifications. Next it says that this kit will not fit a ATC200X, but doesn't list a reason why. I know that it won't work on a '86/7 200X, but I don't know why it wouldn't work on a '83-'85 200X. With all of this in mind, I, personally, would steer clear of that particular kit. On fact, I would buy the next oversized piston and have your current cylinder bored to fit it.

    Thanks for this info. Now you have me leaning away from that kit. Was also recommended to just do a 10:1 wiseco piston and a xr200 cam. might just go that route.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Florida
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    1,044
    A shindy piston and rings, a vertex gasket kit, a shindy primary clutch and one way bearing, ebc secondary clutch and plates, a hone or send your cylinder off for a overbore, new valves, seals and guides, lap your valves, D.I.D. timing chain and guides and 4 qts of oil (for a few oil changes after the build) this will get you another 10 years.
    You can do it all at home except if you need to bore your cylinder.

    MrC.
    mrc_builds on YouTube Channel

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmw...confirmation=1


    My Addiction
    85 200m "Tallahassee"
    84 200x "SouthPort"
    84 200x "Van Halen"
    84 250r "lucky"
    85 250sx "Enterprise"
    85 350x "The Money Pit"
    85 350x Code Red
    86 250r "Unicorn"
    86 trx250r
    88 Lt250r Suzuki

    mrc_builds saves trikes like Jimmy Swaggart saved souls back in the day -said Patriot1

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    College Station, Texas
    --
    32
    Thanks for all the input. Just an update. Dropping it off at the shop next week. Very good shop, used them before. Professional and extremely knowledgeable and experienced. They quoted an estimate of 7 hours at $120 per hr plus parts for the full rebuild. It’s a bit high I feel, but knowing their quality of work I’m ok with it. I have the new carb and exhaust that I’m dropping off with them and they suggested me wait till they get it torn apart to see the condition of the internals before I buy any performance upgrades such as a piston or cam. Which makes sense to me. Biggest bummer though is they are 6-8 weeks out.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2023
    Location
    Earth
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    78
    Quote Originally Posted by zebvance View Post
    Thanks for all the input. Just an update. Dropping it off at the shop next week. Very good shop, used them before. Professional and extremely knowledgeable and experienced. They quoted an estimate of 7 hours at $120 per hr plus parts for the full rebuild. It’s a bit high I feel, but knowing their quality of work I’m ok with it. I have the new carb and exhaust that I’m dropping off with them and they suggested me wait till they get it torn apart to see the condition of the internals before I buy any performance upgrades such as a piston or cam. Which makes sense to me. Biggest bummer though is they are 6-8 weeks out.
    So wait 8 weeks plus build time and pay $1000 by the time it's said and done instead of spending $400 on a brand new engine that will show up in 4 days.

    Make it make sense

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Manheim, PA
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    5,742
    I charge $30 /hr to people at work. One guy had 2 machines at dealers and both gave him $1000 bill for about 3 parts. An OEM manual would benefit you. XR cam might do a bit, almost all of those are worn out also and no 14-16 weeks back ordered from partzilla....they will be gone soon I feel.

    8 weeks.....the way it is getting parts to show up that are just on ebay is a nightmare. Rebuild it over winter. Summer rebuilds I feel are only for the guys with multiple machines. The warrior motor I redid once i got in there is was so bad and it was just rebuilt!. guy had all the piston rings gapped on 1 side within 1/2" of each other. I feel in this sport unless you man up and learn what you are doing you might as well just buy new toys.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    California
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    103
    FROM Barnett468

    There is no replacement for displacement. I'm not an expert on the 200 by any means but an engine is an engine and the same type of performance mods apply to at least most of them.

    wiseco supposedly makes a 2 mm larger piston for the 200 that I believe is also higher compression. You can call them to verify. If that is the case I would start with that. It will definitely cause your engine to cool less efficiently, so if it were me using that piston, I would bore it slightly on the loose side. Plus always let it warm up longer than you would with a stock bore . Using high quality oil (see how I slipped that in there guys, lol) like one that is primarily consists of group 4 type oil like Mobil 1 20w 50 v twin oil will also increase the life of any engine and will cool it more effectively than group 3 oil.

    An oil cooler will also make it run cooler and last longer when running in warm weather. Below is a link with some info. The drilling is best done with the engine apart to insure that any bits of aluminum that get in there during the drilling process can be removed.

    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...00s-oil-cooler

    Mild cylinder porting by a knowledgeable porter will help get the most out of big bore kits and/or larger camshafts. Just increasing compression will also give a slight increase in power.

    Also, on most vehicles where the gearing can be changed, they will accelerate quicker if numerically higher gears are installed.. If you never run your bike at top speed, you will benefit from a slight gear change like going up 2 teeth on the rear sprocket.

    Increasing power can also cause even a new stock clutch to slip in some cases. If your clutch is bad which it sounds like one of them is, and you replace them, and it slips when shifting under hard acceleration, you can usually preload the springs on the main clutch with 1 an type washer on each spring. This will also cause the shift lever to require a little more force to move.

    Exactly what carb are you interested in?i

    Here's a link to the piston.

    https://madpowersports.com/wiseco-67...xoCCqEQAvD_BwE
    Last edited by rpeters; 04-21-2023 at 09:54 AM.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    College Station, Texas
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shad Owe View Post
    So wait 8 weeks plus build time and pay $1000 by the time it's said and done instead of spending $400 on a brand new engine that will show up in 4 days.

    Make it make sense
    Makes sense if I want to keep the original OEM engine.... Not interested in anything else besides oem.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2023
    Location
    Earth
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    Quote Originally Posted by zebvance View Post
    Makes sense if I want to keep the original OEM engine.... Not interested in anything else besides oem.
    Bought a bigger carb an aftermarket exhaust wants to resleeve it and wants more suggestions for mods but also wants to keep it all OEM.

    Lol.

    A 229cc 167fml will still walk it when you're done. Big bore to 255cc is $60. And get electric start. And your original motor can sit there or you can take 5 years to rebuild it yourself. But you're right. Your plan for spending double and being out of a bike for months makes total sense. Do that instead.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    College Station, Texas
    --
    32
    Changing some internals is one thing, but putting a non-Honda engine core is another.... And it's my rig, I have the right to build it how I want. If you're ok with putting a different motor in yours, you have right to and its your choice, there is not a right and wrong thing to do in this case, And I wouldn't try to change your opinion on why you want to do that. I never asked what the cheapest option was, I just asked what to expect cost wise for the rebuild compared to current market prices, so I have something to judge if I'm getting hosed or not.

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