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Thread: Sanding/restoring plastic. How to guide

  1. #46
    1985 200s is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    I've noticed on some of the fenders I've done that there is a layer that is almost like it has been hardened and unless you get through this layer it will not turn a nice red and will have the whiteish tint to it. I used a razor blade to scrape this layer off DO NOT DO THAT though it took forever to get those scratches out. I think you just have to sand through this layer.

  2. #47
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    On some fenders, it wont be possable to restore them. On ones that have layers and layers of sun fade... by the time you get off all the crap on top sanded off, there wont be a fender left. Thats a given.

  3. #48
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    IS there any way to fix deep scatches and to make it look good.

  4. #49
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    This is not advice. Just what I do to my plastics.
    When you get really whitened plastics use a flat paint scraper and be very easy.
    Once you do this a few scrapes you will know how much force you need to take 90 % of the bad plastic off.
    Im in the midts of sanding down my rear fender and im glad I did this. Ive spent 10 hours on half of my rear fender. As for welding plastics it way easier then you think. I had a thick branch come right through my front tecate fender and wedged between my ehpansion pipe and frame. Destroying my mint fender. or at least a huge hole. now when it broke it also bent the piece that broke. All you need is a heat gun and a weller sodering gun with a cutting tip. All you need is a long thing piece of same color plastic to use as a brazing rod and melt the rod with the heat gun and let the molten plastic drip down onto the welded area. use the weller sodering gun to cut out dirt out of the plastic. My front fender is mint or as mint as it comes. and it is strong. my bike was droped on a tail gate and landed right on the bottom of my front fender, and it did not break.It actually held up my bike. I sheet you not. and the heat gun can also be used to take out white (bend) marks. welding plastic is no more harder then sanding them. Just dont rush.

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    I know this post is old news, but i tried to do this today, and i guess i didn't go long enough with the 2000 and not in enough directions, mine has little scuffs in it still and are holding in the compound. Well actually i only have meguiars cleaner wax (not very abbrasive) I'm gonna swing into the parts store and get some good stuff. Also i started with 600 is this too fine? I dont have anything huge as far as scrapes, i think i just rushed it...
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  6. #51
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tecate250
    This is not advice. Just what I do to my plastics.
    When you get really whitened plastics use a flat paint scraper and be very easy.
    Once you do this a few scrapes you will know how much force you need to take 90 % of the bad plastic off.
    Im in the midts of sanding down my rear fender and im glad I did this. Ive spent 10 hours on half of my rear fender. As for welding plastics it way easier then you think. I had a thick branch come right through my front tecate fender and wedged between my ehpansion pipe and frame. Destroying my mint fender. or at least a huge hole. now when it broke it also bent the piece that broke. All you need is a heat gun and a weller sodering gun with a cutting tip. All you need is a long thing piece of same color plastic to use as a brazing rod and melt the rod with the heat gun and let the molten plastic drip down onto the welded area. use the weller sodering gun to cut out dirt out of the plastic. My front fender is mint or as mint as it comes. and it is strong. my bike was droped on a tail gate and landed right on the bottom of my front fender, and it did not break.It actually held up my bike. I sheet you not. and the heat gun can also be used to take out white (bend) marks. welding plastic is no more harder then sanding them. Just dont rush.

    Now this is something I'd love to SEE step by step pic's or better yet a vid of the procedure.

    You have plastic laying around that you could do one or the other and show us? That would be great!

  7. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by i58829
    I know this post is old news, but i tried to do this today, and i guess i didn't go long enough with the 2000 and not in enough directions, mine has little scuffs in it still and are holding in the compound. Well actually i only have meguiars cleaner wax (not very abbrasive) I'm gonna swing into the parts store and get some good stuff. Also i started with 600 is this too fine? I dont have anything huge as far as scrapes, i think i just rushed it...
    I just noticed that , how old the post was but yea, I think you should start out with 220 or 320, try a really small area and see what happens.

  8. #53
    breastman569 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    im not sure if anyone here knows about this or not but after your all done sanding your tank or whatever your working on go and get this new stuff by Turtle Wax called Ice! it is down right amazing its a plastic wax that wont leave the white crap behind and it is really amazing! it brings the color out like never before!
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  9. #54
    rckstrgrl21 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    Ok, I read the post, went out nd bought sand paper, and when I got back I realized i bought 60, 80, 200, grit. i strted with the 60 to get out deep scrtch that was on it, and realized it wasn't wet sandpaper.


    So to fix can I just start out with 220 wet sandpaper like nothing happened? or do I need to do something special now?


    My plastic was super super faded and i don't feel comfortable using a razor, so is using the 60 grit good to start with to get rid of the top layer?
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  10. #55
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    I wouldnt use 60 grit. I would start at 220 grit. But I only polished wheels with 2000+ grit and I have never done plastic
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  11. #56
    rckstrgrl21 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    At the store they had these sponge's that was covered in sand, that was like sand paper. are they for wet sanding?

    I think they would be easier to use, but i want to make sure they are wet sand compatable
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  12. #57
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    There are ones I have that start at 220. They are like the size of a sheet of paper and about 3/8 inch thick white foam back. I am not sure if they are wet sandable but they work wetsanding. The black square sponge stlye ones about inch and a half thick are crap. Good luck.
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  13. #58
    saleen_n_around's Avatar
    saleen_n_around is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Good info for sure....

  14. #59
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    love this thread!!
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  15. #60
    300rman's Avatar
    300rman is offline My other user 3WW ID was Nitebiker07. Teaching quads a lesson
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    this should be made a sticky. very informative

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