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Thread: Starts, Idles, and revs but not high revs?

  1. #16
    Join Date
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    valves do NOT rotate. the retainer clips keep them from rotating. so that's out.
    good thinking though.

    do you have a filter between the tank and carb?

    oh and the work i was searchign for in my last post is "Vaporlock".
    ________________
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  2. #17
    SCRAMCHARGER318 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    Starts, Idles, and revs but not high revs?

    if you bent or burnt a valve it would most likely miss at idle and not so noticable a high end, maybe you have a gas cap on the process of going bad? also make sure you clean the gas filter in the petcock(if you havent already) make sure all you vent tubes are clean of mud and debris. if all that checks out then i would agree with oscar and i would say most likely the cause, a electrical issue. if it were a mechanical problem it would most likely do it all the time. get out the ohm meter and check the coil's and cdi box, check all wiring connections and grounds, maybe you have a wire rubbed bare and grounding out on the frame.
    hope this helps

  3. #18
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    Mar 2007
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    Memphis
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    Thanks everybody for chiming in. I agree that it sounds like a fuel issue but everything is new (plastic tank, petcock, clear inline fuel filter, spot less carburetor) I wonder if the main jet sheild that is in the carburetor could be causing this? I have never had trouble before and I know that it is installed correctly..... The problem has to be electrical in nature and somehow tied to the spark advance. I have already checked the coil and replaced the spark plug and cap. The CDI is also new so I guess I will replace the pulse generator and check the wiring. I may replace the spark plug coil as well even though it tested good.

  4. #19
    Join Date
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    is the spark advance itself in good shape? are the springs broken? is it locked up? are they worn out and loose?
    ________________
    I'm just a squirrel "Trying" to get a nut!

    Nearly every kind of Honda ATC (plus some custom ones
    several Yami Quads (mostly custom built for MX racing)

    https://www.mikesatvfix.com

    "Freedom is not free...but the U.S. Marine Corps will pay most of your share."

  5. #20
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    Mar 2007
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    This is a 250es which has no advance mechanism. It is built into the CDI.

  6. #21
    Tri-Z Pilot's Avatar
    Tri-Z Pilot is offline Check my feedback before buying from me Got the holeshot
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    Just test your stator coil with a multi meter before buying new. No need for new parts if your old ones are fine. Have you checked that your floats are set right, or are they plastic, I cant remember.
    Current Rides-Soon to be 85 350X, 84 200X
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  7. #22
    boosted96cobra's Avatar
    boosted96cobra is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Have you undone the gas cap just to check it when it does run poorly? My friends 185 did this and so did my daughters 125m. Air has to go in and replace the fuel that has been used inside the tank.
    http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll292/sagep11/IMAG0069-1.jpg

    84 tri-zinger
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  8. #23
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    Mar 2007
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    Yes, I have tested the stator and it is good. I have also tested the pulse generator and it tested good but all that means is that it is not shorted out since you are only measuring the amount of resistance between the wires....it could still be "lazy". The float in the carburetor is plastic and non adjustable. Yes, I have checked the fuel cap. It is a new plastic cap.

  9. #24
    BigRed_Ryno is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Quote Originally Posted by boosted96cobra View Post
    Have you undone the gas cap just to check it when it does run poorly? My friends 185 did this and so did my daughters 125m. Air has to go in and replace the fuel that has been used inside the tank.
    That was the problem on my little '70

    It'd run great, then would start to bog, even by taking the cap off, it was too late the engine would die. New cap = Kushty

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    UPDATE:

    I think I figured out the problem. Everytime that I would strip down the carburetor it would be clean so I would put it all back together and it would be fine until a few weeks later (the next time I rode it). I finally broke down and pulled the carb off again and I found evidence of what I believe was causing the problems. I found a few small pieces of trash hanging out in the bottom of the float bowl. When I rubbed them between my fingers they turned into a powdery mess. Rust you say?.....nope, I have a plastic tank. The problem appears to be the sealer that I was using on the float bowl gasket. I know, I know....you shouldn't use sealer at this joint but my gasket is 22 years old and had flattened out a bit. I made sure to use a non-hardening type sealer that was supposed to be unaffected by gasoline. Turns out it wasn't. After a few weeks, some of it would flake off and fall into the float bowl. From there it would clog up the main jet just enough to lean it out to the point of power loss. Eventually it would be sucked up through the jet and my power would come back and the bowl would be clean for a bit. This is why it was so hard for me to catch it. I actually hooked up a clear drain line to the bowl and routed the open end into the fuel tank/side panel grommet. The same method you would use to check the float level....anyway I did this and left the carburetor drain screw very loose. I rode the trike around like this for a while and thats when I noticed the small bits of trash beginning to accumulate in the clear tube. It just goes to show you, even if you think everything is spotless..........check again........and again......and again...............................

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Texas
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    haha not that's funny!!!!

    i use hi-temp black silicone to hole the new gasket in place while puttin ghr blow together. (very very thin amount.) why don't you spend a few buck on a carb rebuild kit like suggested? they come with AL the gaskets and seals for the carb. off ebay it's liek $20 shipped to your door!
    ________________
    I'm just a squirrel "Trying" to get a nut!

    Nearly every kind of Honda ATC (plus some custom ones
    several Yami Quads (mostly custom built for MX racing)

    https://www.mikesatvfix.com

    "Freedom is not free...but the U.S. Marine Corps will pay most of your share."

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
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    Figured I’d chime in on this old post that I’d hijacked (sorry about that) and share that I finally found the real issue…only took a little over a decade haha.

    To recap, my 86 250es had an intermittent low power issue. There was no rhyme or reason to it but when it acted up, it just ran flat for lack of a better description. It would start and idle fine but wouldn’t rev out. I’d suspected a timing issue but could never catch it in the act of messing up when my timing light was around. Finally, the stars aligned and I was able to confirm my suspicions. At idle, the timing was spot on but when revved the timing was actually retarding instead of advancing. I tried to take a video but I could barely see it myself and the camera was unable to capture it.

    I swapped to my spare CDI and the problem disappeared. Then, I swapped back to the “bad” CDI and the problem wasn’t there. I suspect that the issue is actually a poor connection at the CDI and not the CDI itself. It’s weird because I’d swapped CDIs before and the problem persisted which furthermore leads me to believe it’s just a poor connection. I cleaned the pins as best I could and doused them in WD-40 and so far so good for the past year.

    Hope this helps someone…

  13. #28
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    Wow! It's awesome that you were finally able to figure this out. It sucks that it took so long for the stars to align for you though. Merry Christmas and happy triking!

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by fat batster View Post
    I cleaned the pins as best I could and doused them in WD-40 and so far so good for the past year.
    There are products for cleaning and improving electrical connections. The good ones aren't inexpensive by any means but they're what the automotive and other industries have relied on for years to fix some serious and perplexing issues that came down to bad connections.

    Here's one: https://wurthusa.com/Chemical-Produc...5-ml/p/0893622

    A less expensive product is https://caig.com/deoxit-gold-g-series/
    The story of three wheels and a man...

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