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Thread: 500R subframe is complete!

  1. #16
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    yeah why would you want to mig aluminum? its more work trying to get everything setup right. tig is the way to go. plus the weld is stronger than a mig.
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  2. #17
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    Why am I not surprised that something coming from that shopp looks that good. I can not wait to see it in person. Tell your dad you had a good teacher.

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  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by sblt500r
    yeah why would you want to mig aluminum? its more work trying to get everything setup right. tig is the way to go. plus the weld is stronger than a mig.
    That's what I was going to say.
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  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blown 331
    That's what I was going to say.
    i was thinking the same thing also.
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  5. #20
    Billy Golightly's Avatar
    Billy Golightly is offline Always finding new and exciting ways to not give a hoot in hell Catch me if you can
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    Quote Originally Posted by sblt500r
    yeah why would you want to mig aluminum? its more work trying to get everything setup right. tig is the way to go. plus the weld is stronger than a mig.

    Faster, easier to get into corners, cleaner looking weld bead. Its so hard to get the nice "roll of quarters layed over" look with the TIG welder. Especially when going up in a corner. I got my front brace welded in but I can tell that it warped alot while doing it (I had to unbolt it to weld it in). I screwed up on a few of the welds for that piece...should be ok though I suppose. Going to go back over there after it cools off and try to get the seat mounting figured out.

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  6. #21
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    Maybe we need to start a TIG vs MIG in the this vs that section but if you know what you are doing you can get a much nicer looking and better quality weld out of a TIG welder.
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  7. #22
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    [
    QUOTE=Blown 331]Maybe we need to start a TIG vs MIG in the this vs that section but if you know what you are doing you can get a much nicer looking and better quality weld out of a TIG welder.
    [/QUOTE]

    Yes, if you want the best looking "bead" possible nothing beats the TIG but if you have never used a
    TIG it's a whole different ballgame especially when useing alm. Most important thing to know when useing a Tig is that the surface has to be spotless (not even a tiny paint chip, dirt, greese ect. ect.) to achieve (1st and most important) the best possible burn in and 2nd, best looking weld.
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  8. #23
    staceyl200's Avatar
    staceyl200 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    Tig is the way to go I,ve seen a guy weld 2 pieces of aluminum foil together absolutely mint !! I,m trying to get my company to buy me one to repair aluminium moulds (and trick trike parts lol)

  9. #24
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    Hey Billy those welds aint bad at all! I've got myself a Mig and an arc welder. I've got the Mig down to an absolute science now I can actually weld 2 pop cans together somewhat sucessfully (call bullshit if you feel like it but I can do it it just took a long time to perfect). I agree that Tig is a nicer looking and cleaner weld though even if it is less convenient than a Mig.
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  10. #25
    Billy Golightly's Avatar
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    Well heres what I got done today. Was having a hard time getting the front brace welded in and then I remembered to swap the tungsten out with a new one. Did that and cleaned up the material real well before I went to weld the corner gussets (And rear seat mounting brackets) on. Got started and man it went like butter. I welded them the full length on the top and tacked each one in 2 places on the bottom. I dont for see anyway possible of them coming off or breaking heh. Pictures are kind of shitty, I couldn't get the thing to focus good. I guess its the light conditions over there in the shop.

    I think I will probably add some (smaller) similar gussets to the front brace, and make it where the seat bolts down through them as well. The seat cover will need to come off and I have to reposistion the mounting bolts. I'll probably just drill some new holes in the pan, get some carriage or I guess even normal hex type bolts and glue them down to the pan with a fat washer under them. The seat mount will hopefully be completely done tomorrow. I've also got my bottom frame mounts made up. They need a little bit more tweaking to make them fit but not much. I've also got the bottom support bars cut for the bottom at 19 inches a piece. Probably end up a little less though when I'm done. Just cut them long so if I needed a little extra to make the seat fill out the gas tank area I'd have it

    Does anyone know where I can buy the gripper type seat cover for an 85-86 250R? I dont really care on the color...would prefer black I guess.

    More work and pictures tomorrow...I sure hope this thing holds together. I'm gonna be pissed if I get on it after its done and I end up breaking it. Not cool!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails reargussetbottom.jpg   reargussets1.jpg   Subframefront.jpg   Subframeside.jpg   weldbead1.jpg   weldbead2.jpg  


  11. #26
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    i'don't know what your complaining about. thats some pretty decent welds there. i agree though that in some places it would be easier with a mig (spool gun).

    practice makes perfect.
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  12. #27
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    Man Billy Your Coming Along Good, Those Corner Gussots Look Awesome. Have You Ever Heard Of Balling The Tungston? If Not Give It A Wirl, Reverse Polarity To DC & Strike An Arc On Your Ground Clamp & Watch Real Close & The End Will Ball Right Up, Let Off Your Gas Pedal As Soon As Its Round, Your Arc Won't Dance Around When First Start, The Arc Shoots Straight Out The Center Of Tungston. & Makes A Pretty Sweet Puddle Especially On Aluminum. As Far As The Comparison Between A Mig Or Tig, Billy Would Have Been Done Yesterday If He Had A Mig, (Much Faster). But Man Who Can Beat The Strength & Look Of The Tig. I Have Welded 2 Raxor Blade Blades Together With A Tig With No Filler Metal. Tigs Are Cool. Where I Work Has A Aluminum Mig. I Wish I Could Afford A Tig. Yea That Would Be A Pretty Rough Landing If She Broke Off. Oh Yea Don't Forget To Turn Back To AC After Balling Tungston.

  13. #28
    Billy Golightly's Avatar
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    Hey Jason, I've heard about that. Making a ball on the end of it but I had never heard how exactly to do it. I'll definetly give that a try tomorrow and see how it works out. Those welds there on the gussets are definetly some of my better ones. Knowing my luck I'll try to do some more work to it tomorrow and It'll look like a chicken crapped on top of it haha. The welder I'm using is an old, old Miller Dial arc 200(Might be a 250, can't remember) from atleast the late 70's. I mean its OLD haha. We've also got a Miller Syncrowave 250 (mid 90's one with the analog panel) but something is screwed up on it, the high frequency wont work. It had all kinds of rats nests and crap in it so something probably got chewed apart. Just haven't been able to take it to a miller repair center to get it fixed.

  14. #29
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    Those Old Welders Are Honestly Better Than The New Ones In Some Ways, They Have Copper Windings (New Ones Are Aluminum). Those Welds Don't Have To Look Perfect As Long As There Strong. Yea Them Darn Varmits They Can Wreck Some Stuff Real Quick, But It Could Just Need To Be Blown Out With A Blow Gun, Dust Is Rough On Them. I Down Loaded That Photo Re-sizer But Im To Stupid To Do It. I Wish You Could See This Insane Ride I Built, I'm Scared To Death Of It At The Moment, I Need More Seat Time On It. +10 Swing Arm Huge Rear Sprocket To Gear It Down. With Stock 250r Rear Sprocket (39) Tooth I Think I Could Out Run A Concord Jet Top Speed, & Total Bog Out Of Hole. Now I Have 10 Tooth Front & 55 Tooth Rear, Now I Just Have To Fine Tune Clutch.

  15. #30
    Billy Golightly's Avatar
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    Alright...Its ALMOST done. All I've got left to do is weld on 2 tabs for the brake stuff (resivoir and master cylinder) and chop off the excess I have sticking out the back, and weld plugs in the end.

    Today we designed, made, and welded the front seat bracket on. Do to the way the seatpan on the 250R is made, the bracket had to be raised 3/4 of an inch above the frame for it to sit right. Got that done and then started working on the correct subframe height and what not with the bottom braces. Finally got it figured out what length they needed to be so they were marked, went and cut the correct angle with the hacksave, brought them back and pushed the 2 bottom mounts we made this morning on mill in and welded the top of the braces. Then the extra gussets for that area were welded on, then I took everything off and welded the **** out of it. Bottom, side, upside down, inside out, haha everywheres. It was a scorcher in the shop, nearly a 100 degrees in the shade. Infact the thermometer in our carport which is under a roof and out of the sun said 95 at about 6:00 this evening. More pictures in the next post...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2subframes.jpg   subframemounted1.jpg   subframemounted2.jpg   bottommountwelds.jpg   Frontseatmount.jpg   insidegussetwelds.jpg  


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