How big of a job is it to change the drive brearing. I mean the bearings on the shaft that turn the track. My literally blew up tonight... Its an 88 phazer 480
How big of a job is it to change the drive brearing. I mean the bearings on the shaft that turn the track. My literally blew up tonight... Its an 88 phazer 480
200s
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KLT160
they are a huge pain in the arse ive done them a million times on my doos and enticer. what side blew out?
down to parts because i no longer have a place to ride trikes.
GIT IT RAAAGGGGG !!!!
They are relatively easy. Take the suspension out. Take chaincase cover off. Back out the chain tensioner bolt. Remove chain. Unbolt bottom gear. There will be three bolts on each side holding some bearing retainer plates. Remove the shaft. Replace the bearings. Depending on the year and what not i can get the part numbers if need be. I work at a yamaha dealer and have preformed this many times. Good luck! If you need any print outs the the manual i can get that too. PM me year and model
yea its pretty simple as long as everything goes fine. the older stuff can and most likely be a huge pain it the butt.
down to parts because i no longer have a place to ride trikes.
GIT IT RAAAGGGGG !!!!
I cant guarantee about the phazer but I know on my vmax's it about a 10 min job. If its the clutch side you might want to pull the secondary clutch off for a little more room,loosen track, put parking brake on then pull the 3 bolts out that hold the speedo cable assembly on, remove nut, bearing should be right behind that, slide it off, install new one and reassemble.
now if the bearing happens to actually be inside the tunnel then you'll have to pull the track and everything like the other guys said.
the one in the chain case usualy doesnt go bad because its submerged in oil, but it can.
85 atc 250r;
PSI porting & head mods
fmf pipe & silencer
boysen rad valve & reeds
38mm air stryker
otherwise go buy a shop manual, you might want to find the torque specs on the big nut behind the speedo gear.
85 atc 250r;
PSI porting & head mods
fmf pipe & silencer
boysen rad valve & reeds
38mm air stryker
its the one on the drive chain side. Track started knocking and slipping and we could see where the bearing had blown out completely. Had to leave it on the trails for tonight. So I'll have to remove the track in order to perform this task or just the suspension.?
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KLT160
it depends on if its a inner or outer set up. my doo s were all inner. my polaris was a outer.
down to parts because i no longer have a place to ride trikes.
GIT IT RAAAGGGGG !!!!
the bearing "might" be in the chaincase. pull off brake parts, remove chaincase cover, remove sprockets,loosen track, pull out other bolts that hold chain case on, slide chaincase off, bearing might be pressed in, good time to change the seals as well. put back together dont forget to tighten the drive chain, and add fluid.
85 atc 250r;
PSI porting & head mods
fmf pipe & silencer
boysen rad valve & reeds
38mm air stryker
Ok thanks for all the help. I dropped brake assembly, chain case cover, chain, pulled of sprockets, removed chain houseing. Ball bearings flew everywhere, bits of metal. The bearing was trash. The bearing shell is tight in the chain housing. Now if I get my dealer to replace this bearing in the housing, is this all I need to do. It doesnt appear that there are any internal bearings meaning under the ski doo behind the track. Thanks I can take pictures if it would help you understand.
200s
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KLT160
change the upper and lower seals on the case and there might be 1 on the cover, buy a new gasket. you might want to pop the speedo side bearing off while your at it and see if its bad unless you want to do this again later.
85 atc 250r;
PSI porting & head mods
fmf pipe & silencer
boysen rad valve & reeds
38mm air stryker
Ok, Ill get the new seal but its a thick rubber gasket on the cover so it should be ok. The speedo bearing is another job but that bearing seems fine for now so im going to leave it. Thanks
200s
110
KLT160
if there is a grease fitting on the speedo side you might be ok, if not the bearings probably bad, if it hasnt already been changed. I would at least pull it off and make sure it spins good. The chaincase bearing should "almost" last forever being submerged in oil, unless the gasket or seals went bad or the chain wasnt adjusted properly. might want to go aftermarket on the bearing, some yammie bearings are pretty pricey, you could probably do both for rhe price of one with the same quality parts.
85 atc 250r;
PSI porting & head mods
fmf pipe & silencer
boysen rad valve & reeds
38mm air stryker
Alright, One thing I noticed was the chain had a lot of play. The tensioner could have been tightened a lot. Could this have caused it.
200s
110
KLT160
you wouldnt be able to tell how tight the chain was, if the bearing was in pieces,
85 atc 250r;
PSI porting & head mods
fmf pipe & silencer
boysen rad valve & reeds
38mm air stryker