//ArrowChat Code
Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 51

Thread: OK, Tecate guys New questions post #16. Splitting cases? Changing bearings and seals?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    NE Indiana
    --
    1,067
    OK, I've tried the mallet to seperate the cases to no avail. I didn't want to kill my cases so i didn't get a running start at it but i hit them pretty good and nothing. So I guess I'll have to use a puller.

    I also would like to know how you guys take out bearings and seals and then replace them without da,maging them? Should I break down and buy the special bearing tools? Those are probably very expensive.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    MICHIGAN
    --
    2,026
    Blind bearing puller from local auto parts store. I think there is a seal puller tool too but it just like a little hooked screw driver. Check them out.
    86 T3
    84 T3
    86 KX250

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    --
    126
    I had to fabricate a puller to get my cases apart on my '86. Pitch on the steering wheel puller wasn't enough. Don't try to pry them apart as you will quickly destroy the cases. Good luck!

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Northeast
    --
    17,438
    You either have to buy the CORRECT puller or make something up.....

    Almost every time I split a case, I go in my box of goodies and there is something I can use or modify just a bit to work.

    The left or stator case - I usually use 2 or 3 long threaded studs (that I weld together sometimes) - those thread into the case either where the stator mounted or where the OEM guys left you holes to use. The other piece is a flat plate of 1/2 x 1.5" inch steel that the studs bolt to. The center hole in that plate is threaded (by me) 1/2-13 and uses a piece of 1/2 rod with a nut welded on one side and usually to a point on the other so it pushes the crank away from the case without slipping off....

    Please don't make me take a picture........................................... .. I'm tired and it's fricken MO FO cold!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    It is not a blind bearing puller, it is a case seperator, and nothing should ever hit the crank.

    Once that left side is off, the right side of the crank can be pressed out on a press with the dowel pins removed and the case protected.

    Make sense??

    EDIT - aren't there pics of the puller/pusher I made in my "20 day trikefest 86 200X build" thread??
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    MICHIGAN
    --
    2,026
    Quote Originally Posted by Hoosier_Daddy View Post
    I also would like to know how you guys take out bearings and seals and then replace them without da,maging them? Should I break down and buy the special bearing tools? Those are probably very expensive.
    I was wrong to tell him about blind bearing pullers?
    86 T3
    84 T3
    86 KX250

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Northeast
    --
    17,438
    Quote Originally Posted by nd4speed View Post
    I was wrong to tell him about blind bearing pullers?

    Nope, not at all - maybe I didn't read enough....

    But, blind bearing pullers are for just that, blind holes with no way in from the other side. They pull or slide things out by grabbing the inner race and yanking it out of the blind hole. Like most motors clutch pivot, there is no way to get out that lower bearing without one or by using hydraulically forced grease or some jedi bread trick Jeff has yet to tell me.....

    Lets see if this picture works, it's a tool I made that originally worked on a Blaster motor case. Then I modified it for the 86 200X 2o day build.

    Simple homemade tool that can pull or push depending on how you use it and set it up. Check it out............


    Trying again with the instant pic!

    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    NE Indiana
    --
    1,067
    Quote Originally Posted by nd4speed View Post
    I was wrong to tell him about blind bearing pullers?
    I think he thought you were calling a case splitter a blind bearing puller. Not sure.

    You were saying to get a blind bearing puller for the bearings themselves, right?

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    NE Indiana
    --
    1,067
    Quote Originally Posted by Dirtcrasher View Post
    You either have to buy the CORRECT puller or make something up.....

    Almost every time I split a case, I go in my box of goodies and there is something I can use or modify just a bit to work.

    The left or stator case - I usually use 2 or 3 long threaded studs (that I weld together sometimes) - those thread into the case either where the stator mounted or where the OEM guys left you holes to use. The other piece is a flat plate of 1/2 x 1.5" inch steel that the studs bolt to. The center hole in that plate is threaded (by me) 1/2-13 and uses a piece of 1/2 rod with a nut welded on one side and usually to a point on the other so it pushes the crank away from the case without slipping off....

    Please don't make me take a picture........................................... .. I'm tired and it's fricken MO FO cold!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    It is not a blind bearing puller, it is a case seperator, and nothing should ever hit the crank.

    Once that left side is off, the right side of the crank can be pressed out on a press with the dowel pins removed and the case protected.

    Make sense??

    EDIT - aren't there pics of the puller/pusher I made in my "20 day trikefest 86 200X build" thread??
    Thanks for the info ( i saw the pic in the second post also).

    Did you say you recommend a blind bearing puller for taking out bearings? I don't have any presses or anything like that. The repair manual shows bearing tools that supposedly take bearings and seals out and put them back in. I just didn't know how expensive or hard to find these tools are. Or of there were other ways to do it beside buying special tools.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Northeast
    --
    17,438
    You just need sockets and EMT or Black pipe etc etc and a press. If you whack them out, you have to do so without cocking them as you will damage the bore they press within.

    MOST IMPORTANTLY!!!!!!! - Beyond that you need the KNOWLEDGE to know whats what and how chit is supposed to come out or get pressed in etc etc.......

    I've been into many many motors and not yet needed a "blind puller" but they do have there purpose and add to a tool collection.

    A decent press can be bought for about 200$

    Honestly though, building motors isn't really "hard" but there are so many mistakes that can be made that make that motor that lasted 20yrs, last 1 year after someone believes the did a "complete rebuild".

    Not trying to bust anyone's balls, but there really are allot of small seemingly insignificant things that are super important. You press the wrong thing, pull the wrong thing, misalign the wrong thing and something WILL suffer........

    When I was young I had a guy that would split and assemble my bottom ends for 75$, I was more than happy to pay him to do it and he's the one that taught me right from wrong.

    I'll never advise someone to rebuild there motor themselves to save money unless they can do it 100%.

    This is why so many guys put in topend after topend but they never touch the bottom end until the crank launches.

    I'd rather be terrified of a bottom end rather than ruin one trying to rebuild it........
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    NE Indiana
    --
    1,067
    Quote Originally Posted by Dirtcrasher View Post
    You just need sockets and EMT or Black pipe etc etc and a press. If you whack them out, you have to do so without cocking them as you will damage the bore they press within.

    MOST IMPORTANTLY!!!!!!! - Beyond that you need the KNOWLEDGE to know whats what and how chit is supposed to come out or get pressed in etc etc.......

    I've been into many many motors and not yet needed a "blind puller" but they do have there purpose and add to a tool collection.

    A decent press can be bought for about 200$

    Honestly though, building motors isn't really "hard" but there are so many mistakes that can be made that make that motor that lasted 20yrs, last 1 year after someone believes the did a "complete rebuild".

    Not trying to bust anyone's balls, but there really are allot of small seemingly insignificant things that are super important. You press the wrong thing, pull the wrong thing, misalign the wrong thing and something WILL suffer........

    When I was young I had a guy that would split and assemble my bottom ends for 75$, I was more than happy to pay him to do it and he's the one that taught me right from wrong.

    I'll never advise someone to rebuild there motor themselves to save money unless they can do it 100%.

    This is why so many guys put in topend after topend but they never touch the bottom end until the crank launches.

    I'd rather be terrified of a bottom end rather than ruin one trying to rebuild it........
    Well, I see what you are saying because i'm doing it myself to save money yes, but mostly because I enjoy it and want to learn to do it.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    southern oregon
    --
    2,338
    A steering wheel puller and a rubber dead-blow will easily separate a kawasaki case... If the cases dont come apart with mild tapping then you must use a puller.. use the puller to keep pressure on the crank as you tap, and tighten the puller as needed. Do not beat on the crank if you plan to re-use it, it doesnt take much to knock them out of true.. although there is nothing wrong with using a rubber mallet to remove the crank from the right case halve after the cases are apart..

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    MICHIGAN
    --
    2,026
    Right, most of the bearings are not blind and an arbor press would be a good idea. You could do without these things but are taking a risk. I avoid bearing/seal work after case splitting now because I have never owned the right tools.

    When I buy machines and motors I try to determine if the cases have ever been split and avoid those that have. Pretty hard to do with 20+ year old machines without looking inside.

    Stripping down to the case is easy enough. Might be worth while to look around for someone reputable to do the work from there. Buy all the parts beforehand to save money.
    86 T3
    84 T3
    86 KX250

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    NE Indiana
    --
    1,067
    Well, I got it all down to bare cases. It wasn't really all that bad. i have to use some innovation here and there. I think the hardest part may be when i put new crank bearings on it. That may give me trouble. The crank bearings on it are good but I'm too afraid to put it back together without new ones. Like i said, i want to do this right.

    I have a brand new OEM rod and rod bearing kit but i don't have the money to take it to the shop for them to press the new one on. That's ridiculous how much they want for that job.

    The seals are easy to pop out and I'm confident that i am careful enough to replace all the seals properly. I've done similar stuff before.

    Anybody have any advice on removing the old gasket material off everything? I'm afraid a putty knife may cause some damage with the wrong slip. And when new gaskets are put on, should I use gasket sealer for any of them? Or is that something recommended not to do? I'll be replacing all gaskets and seals.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    MICHIGAN
    --
    2,026
    Permatex Gasket remover spray helps, but it eats paint and attacks aluminum if left on there.

    The local motorcycle shops around here charge $60 an hour. So crank rebuild = $60. Put some bearings and seals in a case and back together = $60.
    I hand them the parts and they do the rest. Also good prices on shocks, porting, head cuts, and boring.

    You should check around since gas is cheap now.
    86 T3
    84 T3
    86 KX250

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    NE Indiana
    --
    1,067
    Quote Originally Posted by nd4speed View Post
    Permatex Gasket remover spray helps, but it eats paint and attacks aluminum if left on there.

    The local motorcycle shops around here charge $60 an hour. So crank rebuild = $60. Put some bearings and seals in a case and back together = $60.
    I hand them the parts and they do the rest. Also good prices on shocks, porting, head cuts, and boring.

    You should check around since gas is cheap now.
    Nobody in this area does it. All the shops here send them away. The local shop sends them to a place called Lang in Michigan. I don't know where that is. But the cheapest quote I can find is $160 to put the new rod and bearing on for me. Since the rod and bearing on my bike is in really good shape, i just don't know if it's worth putting that much more into it for only peace of mind.

//ArrowChat Integreation Code //