Kxt250 Tecate 3 What Parts Fit Swap Interchange?

[nd4speed]

Some Rear shock rebuild info here:

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...XT-Build/page3

Kit Component Description QTY per Kit
kit content image Rear Shock Seal Head 1
kit content image Snap Ring 1
(bottom out bumper not included)

Application Rear Shock Seal Head Kit Honda CR125R 84-86, XR200R 84-93, XR250L 91-96, XR250R 84-95, Kawasaki KDX200 83-88, KL650 A (KLR) 92-07, KL650 E (KLR) 08-13, KX125 83-86, KX250 83-85, KX500 83-85, KXF250 Tecate 87-88, KXT250 Tecate 84-87, Suzuki DR650SE 96-14, LT-250R 85-92, RM125 82-8


Distributor Information
Distributor Name Distributor Reference #
All Balls 37-1010
Automatic 131673
Gamma 37-1010
KK 6900-108
Kimpex 206556
MTA AB37-1010
Marshall 4436
Matthies 7730024
Motovan 137-1010
Parts Canada 399842
Parts Unlimited 1314-0047
Thibault 237371010
Tucker Rocky 41-3218
Western Power Sports 22-31010

For others looking for parts the 1990 yz80 and later year yz 85 have similar shocks and share some parts. The shock shaft size for the yz is 14mm and the shock body is 40mm just like the kxt shock.



A seal kit is around $25 but a 14mm shock bumper alone is like $25 at most places....um...why? Seems kinda jacked up.

So a new bladder is recommended but often not necessary:
KX125. Years 1986 and ???????

And 2 new orings and a band (bushing?) for the piston/ valve is recommended:
No info yet other than looking to similar 14mmx40mm shocks possibly listed above.

Race Tech sells seal heads for $65, not sure if they are OEM KYB.

The springs is a 325 lb. spring, other riders claim that is for light/middle weight rider and claim to have better results with 450 lb aftermarket spring like Hypercoil.

Common complaint is tecate shock seals leak in the cold temperatures of winter due to metal contraction and thus it blows the seal when ridden then.

The stock shock fluid is KYB K2C and is rated at 5WT (apparently weight is generic label and viscosity and other fluid properties are more important, read posts below)

[MIK6]

Offroad inovations is also offering a reproduction bottom out bumper.. for the stock shock

[phantomtracer]

The stock shock is an easy rebuild. After having rebuilt the compression and rebound adjusters I can tell you that in most cases it's probably not necessary. The seals and bushings are well protected and don't see much abuse.
So in order to do a standard rebuild you will need to replace the seal head and inspect the shock shaft for wear, if you have rust or corrosion the reseal will not last long. You can have rust on the top portion or any portion of the shaft as long as it is not part of the shaft that runs past/into the seal head you will be ok.
I purchased an all balls seal head, although I did see several nos seal heads available the lighter weight of the aluminum all balls seal head looks to be a better solution. The seal head contains several seals and the shock shaft bushing all in one unit. The valve stack head has a split band and two o-rings behind it. I ended up buying nos parts for the valve head, they are not easy to find and there doesn't appear to be a non oem alternative. You do not need to replace the valve head seals and band as it will not cause the shock to suck air, however if the band and seals are worn it will cause accelerated wear of the seal head and reduced damping control.

Nd4speed asked a few questions:
I did replace the reservoir bladder, but I think in most cases you could use the existing bladder without a problem. the bladder will allow for the oil to displace the air volume of the bladder so it does wear.
In order to remove the shaft nut you need to grind the first thread or two that is protruding beyond the nut. The factory deliberately deforms the threads to prevent the nut from backing off. If you try and remove the nut without grinding the threads you might destroy the shaft by pulling the rest of the threads off the shaft. Kyb sells a replacement nut that contains a locking tab.
These two parts can be ordered from KYB directly.
Nut part #. 12mm. 120181200101
Bladder #. 120104600101
The part number for the valve stack o-rings and seal band are the factory Kawasaki numbers.
All balls seal head part # 37-1010
If you are interested in replacing the rebound shaft seals and bushings you can order them from KYB
Part #
Spacer. 120421600101
Bushing. 120431600101
O-ring. 120411600101
If you want to replace the compression valve o-rings you will need to measure them and order them from an o-ring supply house.

[nd4speed]

I was looking at race tech's website and they had a seal head for $65. They kind of made it sound like a Kayaba 40mm x 14mm shock was kind of generic when it came to parts like the seal head. Which goes along with the info I read that one could buy Suzuki LT250r shock parts because it too is a 40mm KYB with 14mm shaft (see list below).

Application Rear Shock Seal Head Kit:
Honda CR125R 84-86, XR200R 84-93, XR250L 91-96, XR250R 84-95,

Kawasaki KDX200 83-88, KL650 A (KLR) 92-07, KL650 E (KLR) 08-13, KX125 83-86, KX250 83-85, KX500 83-85, KXF250 Tecate 87-88, KXT250 Tecate 84-87,

Suzuki DR650SE 96-14, LT-250R 85-92, RM125 82-

So find a shock with similar shaft length / bolt hole?

Race Tech also recommends the shock body be hard anodized.
Also OEM / Kayaba parts are recommended where available.

Going to order KYB - 120341400101 - Shock Bumper for 2002-2014 Yamaha YZ85 and try that. $15 on ebay.

[nd4speed]

What does the Suspension Fluid do?

In addition to providing a lubricating and cooling bath for the dampers and bushings of the fork and shock to function in, the suspension fluid is the medium that is used to provide damping in a modern system.

Essentially, the oil is forced through an orifice or past a spring loaded shim to creating a resistive force to the action of the shocks. Aside from other changes that effect damping, the viscosity of the oil and how the viscosity changes as the oil heats up will be large factors in the system.
Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)

For years, ATF has been the standard fluid for damper rod forks. Why? Of all the commonly available automotive fluids capable of being used in the system, ATF is manufactured within a very, very tight and suitable viscosity range, esentially ISO 34.

This means that if you are in Florida or Mongolia, AFT is going to be available and consistant. This is a very important bit of information for the mechanic.

ATF is far too thick to be used in a modern cartridge damper fork. These forks tend to use oils in the ISO 16 range.
Viscosity (ISO)

Modern fluid viscosity ratings are on an ISO VG (visocosity grade) using test standards set down by ASTM D-2422-97 (2002)& ISO 3448:1992 system of: cSt@40C / cSt@100C / VI. ‘cSt’ stands for CentiStokes, an accurate dynamic measure of viscosity (ISO 3104:1994 & ASTM D445-04). Using these numbers, you can tune oil viscosity with a very high degree of precision in a specific heat range. A straight line graph made from these two viscosity numbers at each temperature can give a very close approximation of the oils viscosity at any other usable temperature.


ISO Grades Courtesy of Shell Oil.
SAE Oil Weight

DO NOT GO BY LABLED OIL WEIGHT! Not only is this a poor way to decide which oil to use, but each manufacturer seems to be on a different scale. For example Maxima RSF 7wt is actually lighter than Spectro 5wt and Silkolene Pro RSF 7.5wt is actually heavier than Showa SS-8 10wt. This is not a judgment about the quality of these oils, just that the 'weight' label leads to a lot of trouble when trying to tune with suspension oils.

These problems can be seem graphically by comparing several systems to each other. Viscosity comparison chart Courtesy of Shell Oil.

Suspension oil is labeled by weight because consumers are used to thinking of oil (ie. motor oil & gear oil) in these terms. The SAE weight system has a very broad and vague viscosity range and does not even cover the viscosity range that most quality motorcycle suspension systems require. Another point of confusion is that motor oils and gear oils are rated for viscosity on the SAE scale at different temperatures, leading to similar viscosity oils having very different ratings. SAE J300 is used to define engine oils, while SAE J306 is used to define drive line (gear) and chassis lubricants.
SAE Motor Oil Grade cSt @100C
0W -3.8
5W 3.8 - 4.1
10W 4.1 - 5.6
15W -5.6
##W-20 9.3 - 12.5
##W-40 12.5 - 16.3
##W-50 16.3 - 21.9
##W-60 21.9 - 26.1


SAE Gear Oil Grade cSt @100C
70W 4.1+
75W 4.1+
80W 7+
85W 11+
90W 13.5 - 24.5
140W 24.0 - 41
250W 41+
Saybolt Universal Second (SUS)

Some oils are labeled on the SUS / VI (ie. 85/150) or Saybolt Universal Second / Viscosity Index. Although this is slightly better system than using SAE 'weights', the Saybolt Universal Second is considered antiquated, is vague and is not a valid viscosity reference. ASTM D88-94(1999).

A rough conversion table from SUS grades is HERE. A very, very rough conversion table from SAE gear and motor oil grades is HERE.

Cst-sus at 100C.gif


Conversion from SUS to ISO Courtesy of Shell. (Assumes VI of 95)
Viscosity Index

The Viscosity Index is very important in a suspension oil. “The viscosity index (V.I.) of an oil is a number that indicates the effect of temperature changes on the viscosity of the oil. A low V.I. signifies a relatively large change of viscosity with changes of temperature. In other words, the oil becomes extremely thin at high temperatures and extremely thick at low temperatures. On the other hand, a high V.I. signifies relatively little change in viscosity over a wide temperature range.” So specifically with regard to suspension, the greater the VI, the more consistent the damping will be over a large temp change.

ASTM D2270-04 Standard Practice for Calculating Viscosity Index From Kinematic Viscosity at 40 and 100°C

The Viscosity Index is calculated as such:

Vi-math.gif

As Microsoft Excel sees it:

VI = 100+(10^(LN((EXP(1.0727+0.6175*LN(cSt@100)+0.9744* (LN(cSt@100)^2)+(-0.3764)*(LN(cSt@100)^3)+0.04824*(LN(cSt@100)^4)))/cSt@40)/LN(cSt@100))-1)/0.00715


On a lovely Sunday morning, the ambient temperature may be 21C (70F). Motorcycle forks will run in the 26C (78F) temp range, rear shocks will run in the 65C (150F) range and rear reservoirs will be around 43C (110F). While motorcycle rear shocks require very high VIs (over 300) to function well over such a huge temperature range, motorcycle forks and bicycles do not. Anything over 100VI will be serviceable for them.
Synthetic, Mineral, and additives

Some suspension oils are synthetic vs. mineral. These are very high quality oils and most general service applications do not require their use. You should, however, consider synthetic oil for performance applications. My Penske rear shock does require a full synthetic oil. Most oils on the market are either full mineral oil or a blend of mineral and synthetic oils. Almost all suspension oils will contain viscosity modifiers, seal conditioners, and anti-foam agents.
Generalities

Most cartridge type forks use a viscosity of 16 cSt@40C. (Except for Ohlins R&T, 19 cSt@40) Most damper rod type forks are specd for a viscosity of 34 cSt@40C. (Basically ATF Fluid) although most setups require far thicker for adequate performance.

Ohlins Steering damper use 16 cSt @40C for street and 19 cSt@40C for enduro and MX

Ohlins Shocks get set up with Öhlins Shock Absorber Fluid No. 309 (#01306-01) (13.7 cSt@40) Penske Shocks get set up with Silkolene Pro RSF (5wt) (26.7 cSt@40)
Comercial Brands and their properties

The oil in a bike's fork or shock not only cools and lubricates the system, but is the heart of all the damping control available for the springs. All phases of the damping involve the viscosity of the oil used in the system. Oil is such a critical suspension tuning decision that is the first priority to get worked out after spring/sag choice. No matter what all of your friends say about what the greatest high speed valves are or wild shim stacks, you should agonize over oil choice. In general, Use the least viscous oil possible that produces good slow speed damping performance with the damping adjustment screws out 1 full turn from full closed. This ensures that a fair amount of fine tuning will be available for track and weather conditions.

I suggest using either Silkolene Pro RSF (PDS)(ester) or Red Line (PDS)(polyol ester) synthetic suspension oils for front and rear suspension systems. They both have very high VI numbers and have enough of a viscosity selection to produce any mix you may need. You should, however, stay with one brand whichever way you go. I have decided to use Red Line exclusively. They range from extremely thin to extremely thick, in five different viscosities. They make the oil in nearby Benicia, CA and the oils come in really pretty colors.



Viscosity, ASTM D445 (cSt) & ASTM D2270 (VI)
Brand cSt @ 40C cSt @ 100C VI
Red Line (Like Water!, Clear) 5.50 2.30 344.00
Red Line (Extra Light, Blue) 9.80 4.00 402.00
Silkolene Pro RSF (2.5wt) 13.60 5.83 464.00
Red Line (Light, Yellow) 18.40 7.10 407.00
Silkolene Pro RSF (5wt) 26.70 9.46 372.00
Red Line (Medium, Red) 30.40 10.80 369.00
Silkolene Pro RSF (7.5wt) 37.00 12.00 322.00
Silkolene Pro RSF (10wt) 47.36 13.69 303.00
Red Line (Heavy) 66.80 16.00 256.00
Silkolene Pro RSF (15wt) 92.95 19.50 235.00

Suspension fluid must be changed often for optimum performance. Rear shock oil suffers from thermal breakdown due to the extreme temperatures that they operate in and shear forces under high load (hydrocracking). The fork does not suffer from this but does suffer from massive amounts of contamination from inside and outside.One more very important point must be made when talking about oil tuning. While tires may take around 10 minutes to reach their full running temperature, the rear shock on a motorcycle can take upwards of 30 minutes to fully heat up. This being the case, you should not attempt to change any settings in the suspension or make any decisions on which direction to go with oil viscosity until the bike has been ridden hard for at least 30 minutes.

PVD-ISO-Viscosity-Data.gif




Mixing Suspension Fluids

Suspension fluids can be mixed my targeting a specific kinematic viscosity at a specific temperature. Since the componenent fluids maintain a fairly straight line change in viscosity as temperature changes, a ratio mix can be devised. Accurate mixing of viscous fluids requires application or the Refutas Equation

These two charts were prepared for Red Line and Silkolene oils:

Red Line Mix
Silkolene-mix.pdf

Or you can go to Jay Lee's (jayz28 @ MTBR.com) website for a web based calculator. http://www.provire.com/index.php/mtb

[nd4speed]

here is what an OEM flywheel looks like before the magnets fly off and grenade the stator:
If you find your flywheel looking like OEM send it to jeswinehart so he can encapsulate the magnets.

Also the Powerbuilt puller I use on Tecates that I bought at Autozone. Do Not thread bolts in too far or they will wreck stator.

Some shock pictures for Dabody and Onformula:

[nd4speed]

Awhile back I got an air box with a K&N filter with it.
The threaded portion to hold the filter on was broken.

Below is Manufacturers description of the filter.

K&N Filter for 86/87 Tecate 3 and 87/88 T4
Available Information
KA-1780 Cross Reference
KA-1780 Vehicle Applications

Product Specifications
Air Filter Shape Round
Filter Material Cotton Gauze
Filter Re-Oiling Amount 0.36 oz (11 ml)
Flanges None
Height 2.188 in (56 mm)
Inner Wire No
Inside Diameter 3.5 in (89 mm)
Outside Diameter 5 in (127 mm)

The problem here is the Inside Diameter of the 1986 Tecate filter mounting bracket is 3.8"

I went to put the filter on the air box I repaired and it did not sit flat when just placed in the airbox.

DO NOT USE A K&N FILTER ON A 1986 1987 Tecate UNLESS YOU KNOW IT IS SEATED FLAT IN THE AIR BOX OR ELSE DIRT IS JUST GOING TO PASS UNDERNEATH THE FILTER AND RIGHT INTO YOUR MOTOR.

Also they say the height is 2" but the cap is recessed to like 1.9" and the tecate mounting thread bottom out at about 1.9" so the filter is barely tall enough with the cap to compress and make a seal. Add some washers or something to press it down all the way, but if the filter height is collapsed or damaged you could run into the above problem where it does not seal.

K&N actually makes a filter that would probably fit better but does not come with lid:
HD-0300 Height: 2 in (51 mm) Outside Diameter: 5.25 in (133 mm) Inside Diameter: 4 in (102 mm) H/D BAJA 100/SR100 70-74


Need to find a filter cage that swaps !!! Anyone???

[nd4speed]

Just found twin air makes clamp on air filter. This angled one looks like it might be good for no airbox and straight intake boot for especially 84/85 tecate:
ID = 63mm; OD= 75mm; Length= 100mm

63mm ID would be good for 36-39mm carb


45 degree angle
pictured on Husky 610 (it is hitting his frame some and pushing the filter out)

part number 150960

[nd4speed]

On 86 Tecate I used the ATC / TRX Honda 250R thumb throttle cable for 36-38mm carb works good and is right cable length but it uses the larger thread style for thumb throttle so you cant use Kawasaki thumbers, I had to use a Yamaha or you will need Honda TRX or similar.

It also also had a curved metal tube end the mates to the carb cap- perfect.

Would also be good for all years- Tecate

[nd4speed]

comparison of 1986 KxT250 and 1986 K250 pipe.

The KX pipe is cleaner, has damage bend on stinger, longer pipe hanger, 2 rubber bumpers, and different bends/dimples/sections.

[nd4speed]

here is an attempt to swap a 1984 CR500 motor in an 86 Tecate but unfortunately they did not finish it:

[nd4speed]

TECATE KXT250 MAIN CRANK BEARINGS


KAWASAKI P/N 92045-1024

Orig mfg KOYO

Ford used KOYO bearings in their 8.8 differentials which basically never had failures and many of them had over 200,000 miles on them and were still going when the engines finally died or the vehicles got junked.

Bearing number 6305SH or 6305SH2

Bearing size 25 X 62 X 17

Same as KX125 KDX200 KX250 KXT250 JS300

[nd4speed]

Here's a good post on how to fix and rewind your stator coil at home:
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...wind-for-10-15

[smoknrv4]

Boyesen 615 power reeds

For: Cagiva 250 WMX 1984-1989;
Cagiva 260 all models;
Cagiva 500 WMX all models;
Husqvarna 260 all models, CR250 and WR250 1989-1998, WXC250 and WXE250 1996
For: Kawasaki KX250 1983-1988,
KX500 1986-2004,
Tecate 3 all models,
Tecate 4 all models;
Suzuki LT250 1987, LT500 1987, RM250 1981-1986, RM465 and RM500 all models

So just to clarify I want a new set of reeds for my 85' Tecate and I'm looking to order "Boyesen 615 power reeds"? Secondly is that all I need to get?

Thanks

[Queef Chief]

So just to clarify I want a new set of reeds for my 85' Tecate and I'm looking to order "Boyesen 615 power reeds"? Secondly is that all I need to get?

Thanks

Yep, this is what I run, minus the factory reed stops. Don't forget to add a drop of blue loctite to your reed screws for peace of mind.


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