//ArrowChat Code
Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: HELP 1983 200s Starting Issues No Spark

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    PA
    --
    29

    HELP 1983 200s Starting Issues No Spark

    HEY guys first time posting really needing some input to get this thing alive before i go crazy!

    *1983 Honda 200s
    got it for cheap with bad pull starter and no brakes, ugly plastics. Had to pop start rear wheels to run.

    One day tried pop starting again engine would not come alive.
    NEXT
    Bought working Pull starter & engages fine but still NO spark.
    Bought Brake shoes, New spark Plug
    NEXT
    Bought CDI unit. Still NO spark
    NEXT
    Ohm tested all connections and got readings except where spark plug wire goes into Ignition Coil.

    Is the next move a new Ignition Coil? Not sure why i bought a CDI unit first but i tried testing my Raptor 250 09' Igntion Coil on the ATC and No Spark so i figured that was not it but IDK.

    Any direction to go with this im hoping my pulse gen or ac generator isnt faulty cause they seem harder things to tackle. Still very new to 3 wheelers any help would be great!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    South Florida
    --
    6,722
    If the harness and plugs are all good the common part to go bad is the stator coil .
    You can buy a flywheel puller and new stator for around 30 bucks on eBay , you will have to solder in the new stator .
    78 atc 90/180cc Dickson Full Suspension
    76 ATC90/180cc Nicholson
    77 atc 90 Dickson Full Suspension
    84 KLT 110/123cc Powroll Racer from 80s
    87 atc 125m stock
    84 atc 200x Curtis Sparks
    84 atc 200x Powroll My race bike from 80's
    83 atc70/108cc Powroll blue Xmas Special
    81 atc185s HP-ATC full suspension

    Performance Shop is Open PM me for Service

    My Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck+shortline10

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    PA
    --
    29
    Is there any way to test the stator Coil with an ohm meter? Definitely not the Ignition Coil then huh?
    I have a puller so that should not be any issue what do i do remove the starter cage and bolts around there?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    South Florida
    --
    6,722
    Yes you can ohm the stator coil . You don’t need to remove the cage , just the flywheel . The smaller of the two stators is the ignition stator .
    78 atc 90/180cc Dickson Full Suspension
    76 ATC90/180cc Nicholson
    77 atc 90 Dickson Full Suspension
    84 KLT 110/123cc Powroll Racer from 80s
    87 atc 125m stock
    84 atc 200x Curtis Sparks
    84 atc 200x Powroll My race bike from 80's
    83 atc70/108cc Powroll blue Xmas Special
    81 atc185s HP-ATC full suspension

    Performance Shop is Open PM me for Service

    My Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck+shortline10

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    PA
    --
    29
    Maybe the old pull starter being exposed to weather destroyed the stator coils inside especially since the decompression cable hole was not plugged up until recently letting in water.
    Do i need to change both coils or just the smaller one?
    Hopefully that does the trick

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Edmond, KS
    --
    2,531
    If you're not getting a reading on one of the circuits of your ignition coil, then I'd start there. It won't hurt to check the coils on the stator, but you need to get a reading everywhere. It's possible that the Raptor coil doesn't have close enough ohms specs to make spark on your trike. Another thing to check is the spark plug wire boot and the wire itself. If either of these are faulty, your coil won't work. Sometimes, it helps to remove the boot and trim off 1/4" of your plug wire, the small wires inside it can break, causing there to be no continuity in the plug wire. If you just throw parts at it instead of doing a complete test of your electrical components, you'll cost yourself a lot of money and make yourself frustrated in the process.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    PA
    --
    29
    Okay thank you i appreciate the advice ! I Do get readings from the stator and i will double check the connection between the coil and boot. Your right about the throwing parts at it, thankfully some of these parts are a cheap find on Ebay but the frustration is definitely there. I try my best but even when i went through the troubleshoot page before posting there was no mention of the stator coil so sometimes my research and best guess still dont do me justice. Maybe there is more than one faulty component it could be the IC & Stator for all i know. This trike was exposed to alot of weather before i started working on it and keeping it covered.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Thunder Bay Ontario Canada
    --
    3
    Hey i have fixed numerous non running engines, 1. disconnect the red wire coming out of the stator housing going to the cdi and text for voltage by pulling the engine over there should be like 15+ volts depending on how aggressive you pull it, if that checks out you have a good stator.
    2. I them go up and unplug the cdi and test the red wire going into it from the stator for power, (make sure you reconnected the wires in step 1)pull the engine over and if you have power going to the cdi you know the wires in the harness are okay. plug the cdi back in.
    3. check the output wire from the cdi to the coil, usually a yellow/black wire, and disconnect it from the coil test for voltage while pulling over the engine, it wont be much but if it registers some voltage you are probably good
    4 plug everything back in like it should, take off the spark plug wire cap and stick your meter into the bare wires from the coil pull over and see if you have voltage. no voltage here means you have a bad coil or ground, if you have voltage then its just the cap.
    5 still no spark? make sure where all the green wires on the harness touch the metal on the frame/engine/components where they are supposed to and are grounded nice and good
    6. it is also a good idea to test the pulse generator under the cdi cover on the head, just unplug the wires the pull it over to see if you have voltage between them
    7 Basically its just a game of seeing where the electrons getting hung up, ALWAYS TEST BOTH AC/DC VOLTAGE AC will be coming out of stator but after the cdi it can be dc so its good to test for both on every component GOODLUCK! let us know if you get this fixed

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    South Florida
    --
    6,722
    The hot coming out of the stator is a black wire not red .



    Quote Originally Posted by GarrettA View Post
    Hey i have fixed numerous non running engines, 1. disconnect the red wire coming out of the stator housing going to the cdi and text for voltage by pulling the engine over there should be like 15+ volts depending on how aggressive you pull it, if that checks out you have a good stator.
    2. I them go up and unplug the cdi and test the red wire going into it from the stator for power, (make sure you reconnected the wires in step 1)pull the engine over and if you have power going to the cdi you know the wires in the harness are okay. plug the cdi back in.
    3. check the output wire from the cdi to the coil, usually a yellow/black wire, and disconnect it from the coil test for voltage while pulling over the engine, it wont be much but if it registers some voltage you are probably good
    4 plug everything back in like it should, take off the spark plug wire cap and stick your meter into the bare wires from the coil pull over and see if you have voltage. no voltage here means you have a bad coil or ground, if you have voltage then its just the cap.
    5 still no spark? make sure where all the green wires on the harness touch the metal on the frame/engine/components where they are supposed to and are grounded nice and good
    6. it is also a good idea to test the pulse generator under the cdi cover on the head, just unplug the wires the pull it over to see if you have voltage between them
    7 Basically its just a game of seeing where the electrons getting hung up, ALWAYS TEST BOTH AC/DC VOLTAGE AC will be coming out of stator but after the cdi it can be dc so its good to test for both on every component GOODLUCK! let us know if you get this fixed
    78 atc 90/180cc Dickson Full Suspension
    76 ATC90/180cc Nicholson
    77 atc 90 Dickson Full Suspension
    84 KLT 110/123cc Powroll Racer from 80s
    87 atc 125m stock
    84 atc 200x Curtis Sparks
    84 atc 200x Powroll My race bike from 80's
    83 atc70/108cc Powroll blue Xmas Special
    81 atc185s HP-ATC full suspension

    Performance Shop is Open PM me for Service

    My Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck+shortline10

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    PA
    --
    29
    Okay so, im in the process of replacing the stator coil just waiting on the coil. Got the flywheel off. I could not do the first disconnect and pull the starter since the flywheel was off but i could try that next.

    So i retested all my connections. By the way the red wire leaving the stator is red & black for me lol that confused me for a second.

    I get the correct low voltage on the yellow/black from cdi to IC.
    The red connected from stator to cdi had voltage ( did not disconnect stator and try pulling starter )
    So i conclude the wiring harness is intact.
    The IC spark plug port had voltage which i thought did not so IC should be fine.
    Green/Ground seems fine
    One wire thats not showing any voltage is the actual spark plug wire. Testing either side shows no voltage so maybe its broken inside its thick rubber?? Not sure i also just realized the hour meter attached to it must be wireless cause its not wired at all????

    Weird stuff but i think my next step is to peel back the spark plug wire and see whats up and i guess test both stators once the new one comes.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    PA
    --
    29
    Quote Originally Posted by shortline10 View Post
    The hot coming out of the stator is a black wire not red .
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	File_001.jpg 
Views:	28 
Size:	76.7 KB 
ID:	253955

    Any help ? The new coil has two connections it looks like one similar style one the right and one obvious sticking out the middle. Im thinking the obvious once sticking out the middle is what im supposed to re-soder it to but any advice? Going to reassemble and HOPEFULLY SHE STARTS

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    South Florida
    --
    6,722
    Solder it to the one in the middle , the other one is the ground .
    78 atc 90/180cc Dickson Full Suspension
    76 ATC90/180cc Nicholson
    77 atc 90 Dickson Full Suspension
    84 KLT 110/123cc Powroll Racer from 80s
    87 atc 125m stock
    84 atc 200x Curtis Sparks
    84 atc 200x Powroll My race bike from 80's
    83 atc70/108cc Powroll blue Xmas Special
    81 atc185s HP-ATC full suspension

    Performance Shop is Open PM me for Service

    My Feedback http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ck+shortline10

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    PA
    --
    29
    Okay so,
    New stator in. Still not starting on pullstart.
    Tired roll starting it down hill and it came alive but died almost instantly.

    Im stumped!
    All ohm readings seem okay at all testing points.
    Reading on IC coil and spark plug boot & wires are fine.

    Next move is to do a pulse generator test & test swaping out CDI box with another.
    Any ideas guys? Thanks for the help it seems like were getting there i fixed my stuck rear brake drum adjustment nut and freshened the front+back pads. So close to somewhat safe operation

    also i cant get any dc readings with my volt meter idk what im doing wrong?
    Last edited by dwheeler23; 08-20-2018 at 12:26 AM.

//ArrowChat Integreation Code //