Yes, on the case repair. That looks mild to me.
I don't think I would recommend trying to do it without taking the cases all the way apart, however
Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk
Yes, on the case repair. That looks mild to me.
I don't think I would recommend trying to do it without taking the cases all the way apart, however
Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk
It looks like the cylinder and piston are free of any scrapes or gauldges, i can feel none anyway.
No compression test was ever done. The rod is free but putting oil in the holes I believe lead to the main bearings. I can't believe the bottom locked like this in three months.
Attachment 259154
Attachment 259155
Last edited by fieldy; 06-30-2019 at 01:37 PM.
The piston underside looks like it was never overheated and the Nikasil plating looks good at the exhaust ports. I can feel a slight ridge where the rings hit the high point in the cylinder. So the measurments and specs will tell the story.
I also will check the head and cylinder for possible warping. Inspection of power valves and cleaning also.
I am going to get a tusk splitter and puller set with a c clip crank puller adapter. Not sure if i need the puller yet, need to study the manual. New to rebuilding. This bottom end will or should be a winter project for me. I hope to do some riding also, soon.
I was thinking about dumping some mineral spirits or transmission fluid into the bottom end because I would like for it to be rotating when I separate the cases. The mineral spirts may just run out the main seals though.
I think the water came through the seals so I want to check the clutch oil too, I will update on that next time around.
Last edited by fieldy; 07-02-2019 at 01:23 AM.
Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14
Yes, I won't run one with an air leak. Thanks on the Weisco. I am attempting to get started on a good runner I can race. I have one that runs and hope it leaks down ok. Cross my fingers.
Going to strip one to the frame and start. Origional paint, kinda rusty in places. I have blasted and powder coated bike frames but I was thinking spray this one. Not wanting show pieces at this time. Any do's or don'ts? Really dont wanna mess up from the get go. I know not to blast hardware before zinc plating, any other tips?
Exactly what bike/engine is this?
Just run of the mill Tecates'. Engines may or may not be origional. Pretty rough all around. Solid frames. Forks straight and clean.
Good going. Sorry, I didn't realize this one had an air leak as well, bummer bummer, or double bummer if you will.
I'm a firm believer in powder coating. The first time I repainted my R, I used a quality automotive paint & spray-gun. The bike was ridden mostly on hard-pack, with the occasional trip to the sand dunes. The paint lasted about as long as the OEM paint did (4 years), before it was chipping off in all the same places that the OEM paint did (on lower frame rails, especially around the foot-pegs). This was mostly due to rocks & sand kicked up by my own front tire, but my main riding partner did have an '87 Tecate.
The second time it was painted, I had it powdercoated. Since it has been powdercoated, I mostly ride sand dunes, and occasionally some hard pack, and there are no chips whatsoever, although the powdercoat is not as glossy in the same lower frame rail areas. Regardless of which paint method you choose, the only other tip I have, is to go over your frame with a fine tooth comb, and clean up any weld splatter/sharp edges with a file, and have any cracks re-welded before it is painted. I have no input or experience with re-zinc plating hardware.
Last edited by Red Rider; 07-05-2019 at 11:34 PM.
Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14
Barnett-Yes, they are Tecates. I guess what I am asking is there a certain media that should be used for sandblasting or will any media or sandblaster screw said Tecate frame? Didn't know if there are better paths to go. Last bike frame I did, I just said blast it, then powdercoat it. I went picked it up all seem great. These Tecate frames are worth more than the bikes though. Just wondered about it.
I should of said that I won't run one with a suspected air leak. I never got it leakdown tested. Water has apparently ruined the bearings and the seals must be bad so I will replace those. I am jumping around alot on thoughts and trikes. I need to name them.
I might try to paint this Tecate because I could later tear it down and Respray the frame. Might look more origional with paint too.
Next chance, leakdown a motor and hope I got a rider, hopefully do.
I am gonna read my new Clymer service manual (when I find it) and study the Kawasaki manual before I start asking questions about the motor. I got questions.
Oh yes, I am not surprised that your friends 87 TECATE sandblasted the paint off your 250r, ☺ and thanks for the opinion and tips on the prep work!
Last edited by fieldy; 07-06-2019 at 12:34 AM.
I've done sandblasting, but I didn't do the sandblasting prior to having my R frame powdercoated. That was all included in the powdercoating price, so I didn't bother.
Gotcha.
I'M NOT SURE HOW HIGHLIGHTED THIS IS IN THE CLYMER MANUAL, BUT A BIG GOTCHA IS: THE NUT, THAT RETAINS THE POWER-VALVE ADVANCER LEVER, IS LEFT-HAND THREADS (REVERSE THREADS). Turn it the wrong way, and you'll destroy the nut and/or the power-valve governor shaft, and undamaged shafts are hard to find.
Glad to help, and don't worry about my paint. I got the Tecate back but good, via a blown out headlight lens, courtesy of the extreme roost & rock throwing ability of the 250R.
Last edited by Red Rider; 07-06-2019 at 01:01 AM.
Red Rider's Sand Machine Updated 07/23/14