Just bought an '84 Kawasaki klt110. Searching for service manual with piston specs.

[Klt110W_I_P]

Just wanted to know if the klt 110 piston is interchangeable or able to be replaced with another piston kit? Have had no luck finding aftermarket performance parts for this thing. With ring specs I can put together a kit. Would An improved or performance piston yeild justifiable results for cost. Bought 3 wheeler for $70. Patched tank, cleaned carb, oil change and fuel lines along with cleaning the magneto has resulted in a screaming little machine. Thing is, it smokes like crazy. Great compression though. High rpm's easily achieved. Any guidance will be greatly appreciated.

[shortline10]

KLF110 is the same motor
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KAWASAKI-130...2dfe0a&vxp=mtr

[Klt110W_I_P]

Learning as I go. Once again thanks.

[barnett468]

Just wanted to know if the klt 110 piston is interchangeable or able to be replaced with another piston kit? Have had no luck finding aftermarket performance parts for this thing. With ring specs I can put together a kit. Would An improved or performance piston yeild justifiable results for cost. Bought 3 wheeler for $70. Patched tank, cleaned carb, oil change and fuel lines along with cleaning the magneto has resulted in a screaming little machine. Thing is, it smokes like crazy. Great compression though. High rpm's easily achieved. Any guidance will be greatly appreciated.

Hello


Glad to see another kawi guy here. Those 110’s are great bikes. I did all the r and d testing on those for kawi. Lot’s of fun.

There are no aftermarket pistons/cams etc available for that that I know of. You could get a little more power by having a custom piston made from je for around $125.00 to increase compression a little but too much will make it detonate/ping. You can remove stock muffler and install old supertrap type or other silencer and get slightly larger carb. You can also mill head around .025 this increase comp which will instantly be reduced back to stock because it will also advance your cam timing which means your intake valve closing time will also be delayed which reduces static, dynamic and cranking compression etc. Basically doing this will simply raise your power band ie start later, end later. You can also port the head which will improve mid and top only. Custom cams are also around $175.00

I guarantee you that your 30 year old std bore cylinder is worn out. Many people here will simply tell you to just "deglaze” it and it will be fine. It will not. Yes it will run, yes the rings will never seal because your bore is not "true" yes it will have lower than optimal compression and probably smoke due to the worn bore. You must measure taper and concentricity in two radial positions on both top and bottom of cylinder to determine amount of wear. Any concentric wear in excess of around .001 is too much. Any taper in excess of around .015 is too much. You also need to measure piston to cylinder clearance, anything in excess of around .005" is too much.

The most cylinder wear will be approximately 1/2" from the top in a position that runs "front to back" not "side to side" since this is the direction the piston "rocks" at the top of the stroke and the least wear will be at the bottom in a position measured from "side to side" not "front to back" since the piston never touches here.

If it is just slightly worn you can have it trued but this will increase the size to a point where your piston to cylinder clearance will be too big.

I personally would prefer to do it once now that it is apart and not do it again in a week.


Get parts here like shortline10 suggested.

http://www.worldofpowersports.com/process.html


Hope this info helps

[Klt110W_I_P]

I appreciate all th great info. I pulled the head off today and found valve seal on exhaust side is basically gone. Intake port looks great. No bent valves, and they seat perfectly. I'm at a point now where I need to pull the exhaust valve and replace the guide. I can do this with my eyes closed on a sbc. As I sit here staring at the cam asm I'm trying to figure out deconstruction. I've removed sprocket and I'm guessing what is the plate that holds the rockers on place. I have great mechanical aptitude. If you could brief me on the sequence for removal I would truly be in your debt. I really do appreciate your response. Born a Kawasaki man, die a Kawasaki man.

[barnett468]

Born a Kawasaki man, die a Kawasaki man.

I can do this with my eyes closed on a sbc.

I'm a big car guy too.

Hello

from faded memory face cam lobes down just yank cam out remove. rocker arm shafts may have threads you can thread a bolt into and pull on if you need to.

Sorry if I'm wrong but you'll see what I mean and figure it out.

Hope this info helps

[Klt110W_I_P]

Im trying to post pictures of the restoration of my trike. All I have for Internet service is my iPhone. I am baffled. Am I missing something? I can't see the forest through the trees.