klt200 no spark or electric start - stumped

[andersonbraaap]

So I have this klt200 that has no spark or electric start.

When I plug the battery in and turn the key I only get the front and rear lights to turn on. When I push the electric start button the lights dim like the start motor is trying to turn the engine over and start but in reality, nothing is happening.
There must be something I'm missing. I know for sure that the electric motor starter is working; as when I shorted it out at the starter relay it was turning over with no hesitation.

Then there is the no spark problem, but first I should probably get the wiring sorted out, right?

[barnett468]

Hello


The starter/light problem sounds like a dirty connection to me. Was it kept outside in bad weather at any time?

I would clean every connection, if it still does it it is most likely a corroded switch.

Bypass them and check again.

[andersonbraaap]

Yeah it was kept outside for a couple years so the connections were pretty dirty. I cleaned much of the connections and just a few minutes ago I followed the starter button to where it connects to the starter solenoid and it has voltage all the way up to the solenoid to where it goes inside it.
So I tested the wire that comes out of the solenoid that goes directly to the starter motor and there is no voltage through that wire.

Im thinking that it's the solenoid that needs replacing?

[Bungle]

My klt 200 had no spark when I got it. Found out it was the cdi. If yours is the same don't buy a kawasaki cdi. I used a
Suzuki gs 125 cdi and it works perfect and you can pick them up for £10. If you have to go down the cdi route I will send
you a wiring diagram on how to wire the gs cdi

[andersonbraaap]

Okay once i get it to turn over electrically I'll take a look at the cdi. My cdi has voltage coming out of the wire going to the ignition coil, though.

If it's the cdi thats causing no spark though I'll take a look into the Suzuki cdi

[andersonbraaap]

Well good news - I got a spark

I cleaned up the spark plug cable, made sure it was actually getting voltage all the way through and turned it over by shorting it out again by the solenoid and there it was, a spark.

Now I need to figure out why exactly it wont turn over by the start button. I think im going to buy a new solenoid since they're fairly cheap on eBay see if that is the problem.

[barnett468]

Hello


Congratulations, It's amazing what a little spring cleaning can do!

Those bikes are very hard to kill unlike some others that seem to need a new CDI if you just look at it crossed eyed, lol.

[andersonbraaap]

Yeah the cdi on this bike seems to be doing its job!

I think I need a new fuel pump though since the one I have on it now doesn't seem to have any sucking power to get the fuel up to the carb.

[barnett468]

Hello

Yeah the cdi on this bike seems to be doing its job!

Yeah, they are extremely durable.

I think I need a new fuel pump though since the one I have on it now doesn't seem to have any sucking power to get the fuel up to the carb.

You can test the pump for a bad diaphragm buy putting light suction to the inlet port with a mity mite vacuum available at pep boys etc. Just sucking on the inlet side with the hose facing up so you don't get any gas is dangerous and not recommended. Inhaling the fumes is extremely dangerous. Even if it does not have a leak the diaphragm is 30 years old and might be dried up to the point where it will not pump properly if at all.

As far as I can see, these pumps are discontinued and not available at the OEM NOS dealers. I only found 2 available, 1 is $95.00 the other is $65.00. If you plan on keeping it and since the pump is most likely original I suggest you buy the one currently on Ebay at the link below instead of another dried up used on, providing no one here has a better idea or one for sale. Once new it will last many years. The NOS diaphragm is also not available and I have not seen a rebuild kit for one.

Fuel pump p/n 49040-1002 $65.00 NOS OEM retail = $90.00 but they are discontinued.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KAWASAKI-FUE...987#vi-content

[barnett468]

Hello


Sorry, the link above was incorrect, the correct one is below. You can also buy Mikuni “style” and other generic replacement pumps starring at only $18.00, see link below. Real Mikuni pumps available there also.


NOS OEM fuel pump p/n 49040-1002 $65.00 NOS OEM retail = $90.00 but they are discontinued.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KAWASAKI-FUE...-/180995532987



NOS OEM PUMP $90.00

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Pump-NO...-/161006932504



Rectangular Mikuni style [does not say Mikuni on it], real Mikuni [clearly says Mikuni on it] and other generic pumps $18.00 - $32.00

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/mikuni-fuel-pump

[jb2wheels]

How about a picture or two? I have a soft spot for the old KLTs.

[andersonbraaap]

so should there be any flow when you suck from the inlet port? I'm probably just better off buying a new pump anyways, this old one seems to be finished

And I'll try to get some pictures of it soon once I get the plastics back on it

[barnett468]

Hello

so should there be any flow when you suck from the inlet port?

There should be no air flow when doing this. As I mentioned this is not safe.

I'm probably just better off buying a new pump anyways, this old one seems to be finished

As I mentioned earlier, thats exactly what I would do. Just go to the links in my posts.

[andersonbraaap]

So the Mikuni style fuel pump should work fine?

[barnett468]

So the Mikuni style fuel pump should work fine?

Yup! no problem