Reviving an ATC110

[MrGiggles]

I recently found a Honda ATC110 on top of a junkpile. I ended up taking it home for free, and have a few questions about possibly reviving it.

First is I need to find out what year it is so I can locate parts diagrams for it. Where is it located on there? It does have the larger style alternator though, as well as a headlight and H/L lever.

Another problem is that the engine is stuck. I figured this and I have the piston soaking in PB blaster. I took off the recoil and it looks like it could be stuck by the generator. It did have a spark plug in it so no water got in the piston I think.

How hard are the igntions on these to troubleshoot? I have not checked for spark yet because the engine is stuck.

This thing is going to need a lot of work, if it is going to be too much work or money I will part it out. The fender on one side is gone, shifter is bent. I will try and take some pics.

Thanks.

[85200xrider]

if you need to know what year it is...theres a couple vin number decoders you can use. http://www.atvstyle.com/index.php/atv-vin-number thats the one i use

other then that....i dont know much about the 110s....ive never used pb blaster to free up a piston...ive always used mystery oil, but i guess pb will work fine. other people on the site could help you out with the other stuff

o yea......welcome to the site!!!

[MonroeMike]

Welcome to 3ww.

[1985BigRed250ES]

the vin is on the front of the frame on the left side of the the neck where the handle bars are. Is the headlight round or square? on the left side of the motor there is a black cover with two screws holding it on. on the cover does it say 'CDI' or is it blank? take the cover off if its blank to see if it has points. If it has points it will be a 1979-1980 model. I think honda switched to cdi ignition system in 1981. If it has CDI ignition it will be a 1981-1985 or whatever the last year they were produced. the 1979-1981 had round headlights also a 6 volt electrical system I believe. the 1982-1985 had the square headlights and a 12 volt system. the 1983 model was the last year for the rounded type plastics and the 1983-1985 had more of "squared off" plastics. I believe in 1985 the airbox will be square. on the earlier models they were rectanguler.

[MrGiggles]

if you need to know what year it is...theres a couple vin number decoders you can use. http://www.atvstyle.com/index.php/atv-vin-number thats the one i use

other then that....i dont know much about the 110s....ive never used pb blaster to free up a piston...ive always used mystery oil, but i guess pb will work fine. other people on the site could help you out with the other stuff

o yea......welcome to the site!!!

Thanks.


I have a small update. I did get it to free up, not sure what was stuck. It has hardly any compression though. The valves are actually in spec and being held open so they are okay. I could get lucky I guess and the rings could be stuck in their groove.

I also did a spark check and it has none. The plug does have spark on my Bayou. Where should I start troubleshooting the electrical system?

[MrGiggles]

the vin is on the front of the frame on the left side of the the neck where the handle bars are. Is the headlight round or square? on the left side of the motor there is a black cover with two screws holding it on. on the cover does it say 'CDI' or is it blank? take the cover off if its blank to see if it has points. If it has points it will be a 1979-1980 model. I think honda switched to cdi ignition system in 1981. If it has CDI ignition it will be a 1981-1985 or whatever the last year they were produced. the 1979-1981 had round headlights also a 6 volt electrical system I believe. the 1982-1985 had the square headlights and a 12 volt system. the 1983 model was the last year for the rounded type plastics and the 1983-1985 had more of "squared off" plastics. I believe in 1985 the airbox will be square. on the earlier models they were rectanguler.

The headlight is round and it has points. The VIN is TBO2-2075175. I'm going to clean the points and see if it has spark then.

[MrGiggles]

Update:

Cleaned up the points and it has spark now. I still have a couple questions.

1. On the recoil it seems like the rope is stuck around the spool. I have pulled on it as hard as I can and can't get it to come out. I cut the knot off that holds it in BTW.

2. The back wheels are stuck solid. Where is a common place for them to stick? I have verified it is neutral.

[harryredtrike]

tear it down,take everything apart and clean,grease,repair,and buy what you need.

[shortline10]

Sounds like that trike has sat a long time . the recoil will probably need to be taken apart and just force the rope out and do a rebuild on it .
A-lot of trikes with drum brakes when they sit for a long time the brakes shoes come unglued and jam themselves in the drum . your just gonna have to take the back end apart and install new shoes .

[MrGiggles]

Sounds like that trike has sat a long time . the recoil will probably need to be taken apart and just force the rope out and do a rebuild on it .
A-lot of trikes with drum brakes when they sit for a long time the brakes shoes come unglued and jam themselves in the drum . your just gonna have to take the back end apart and install new shoes .

How hard is the recoil spring to put back in?

I will check that out when I get the recoil sorted out.

[MrGiggles]

tear it down,take everything apart and clean,grease,repair,and buy what you need.

I will tear apart what I have to.

[shortline10]

How hard is the recoil spring to put back in?

I will check that out when I get the recoil sorted out.

If you let the recoil unwind , remove the C clip and just wiggle it out it you might get lucky and the spring will stay in the housing .

[MrGiggles]

If you let the recoil unwind , remove the C clip and just wiggle it out it you might get lucky and the spring will stay in the housing .

I won't be able to unwind the spring all the way because the rope is stuck. I will probable give that a shot though.

Once I get the recoil fixed I just have to clean the carb, get the throttle cable unstuck, and put on new fuel lines and I will be able to see if it runs at all. If it runs okay now I might hone the cylinder and put in new rings,

[MonroeMike]

There's a manual here.

http://72.52.143.80/~trikes/atc70-125_1985_and_earlier_servicemanual.pdf

[mike1979]

my recoil on my 200 was acting up, I took it off and sprayed the hell out of it with some WD40 an let it sit all night. put it back on the next day and all has been well ever since

[MrGiggles]

More progress:

I completely dissassembled the recoil assmebly, spring and all. It was a pita but I got it done. Rust was holding the rope in, I got it chipped off and reassembled twice and it works good now. Still has blue spark as well.

Tomorrow I am going to clean the carb, put some gas in it, and see what happens. It doesn't seem to have much compression at all, but maybe it will start.

[shortline10]

More progress:

I completely dissassembled the recoil assmebly, spring and all. It was a pita but I got it done. Rust was holding the rope in, I got it chipped off and reassembled twice and it works good now. Still has blue spark as well.

Tomorrow I am going to clean the carb, put some gas in it, and see what happens. It doesn't seem to have much compression at all, but maybe it will start.

Did you squirt some bp blaster down the plug hole ? When they sit for a long time the rings can get a little stuck . A couple min of running and it will probably come to life again.

[MrGiggles]

Did you squirt some bp blaster down the plug hole ? When they sit for a long time the rings can get a little stuck . A couple min of running and it will probably come to life again.

I did when I first got it. I'm really hoping that's the case though.

I have another idea that I'm not sure if somebody has already done. What is left of the seat is not enough to rebuild. Only the front of the base metal is left, the rest has rusted out. What I'm thinking is to maybe make a new base out of fiberglass, then upholster off of that. I would lay down tin foil where I want the glass to be, spray a release agent, then lay on a layer of resin. Then do a couple layers of mat on top of that, and trim till it looks good. Then upholster like normal.

Does anyone have any input on the H/L lever? It's stuck pretty good. Will it free up with some riding?

Also, the little knob that points to N when the machine is in neutral doesn't match up when it is in what I can tell to be neutral. I can't be sure it is because the wheels are still stuck but I think it is. Normal problem?

[MonroeMike]

The seat pan repair has been done. Here's a thread, I'm sure there's more.

http://www.3wheelerworldforums.com/showthread.php?t=80076

[MrGiggles]

I think it's going to need a new carb. It was horribly plugged with rust and corrosion, and the throttle plunger is stuck. The throttle cable broke when removing also. Is ebay my best bet for a new carb?

[shortline10]

I think it's going to need a new carb. It was horribly plugged with rust and corrosion, and the throttle plunger is stuck. The throttle cable broke when removing also. Is ebay my best bet for a new carb?

Ebay or here is the best place to find a good carb but I dont recomend one of the chinese knock offs . Find a decent used one and if it needs a carb kit thats the best way in my opinion .

[MrGiggles]

I think this one is past rebuilding. I might consider it if I can get that stupid throttle plunger out. The choke plate is stuck as well.

[yamahaman89]

the throttle was stuck on my 85 200x when i got it all i did was take off the air cleaner and carefully get a screwdriver through the air intake on the carb and carefully pryed it up it worked ok for me
hope this helps!

[MrGiggles]

the throttle was stuck on my 85 200x when i got it all i did was take off the air cleaner and carefully get a screwdriver through the air intake on the carb and carefully pryed it up it worked ok for me
hope this helps!

I did that too with the help of some PB blaster. It's past the point where I can pry it up from there though, fortunately the cable broke about 3 inches from the nub on the bottom of the cable so I've been pulling on the cable with a wrench. It's stuck bad, this carb is the worst I've ever seen.

[MrGiggles]

I'm in the process of removing the throttle plunger and cleaning the carb now. Pics are coming.

[shortline10]

I'm in the process of removing the throttle plunger and cleaning the carb now. Pics are coming.

Dont think I have ever seen one stuck that bad . usually a little pen fluid and they come out pretty easy . Good luck .
Think I have a decent parts carb off a 82 model 110 that needs a float bowl seal if you need one . Not sure how the petcock is either but you can use your old one .Will sell it very cheap:Bounce

[MrGiggles]

Dont think I have ever seen one stuck that bad . usually a little pen fluid and they come out pretty easy . Good luck .
Think I have a decent parts carb off a 82 model 110 that needs a float bowl seal if you need one . Not sure how the petcock is either but you can use your old one .Will sell it very cheap:Bounce

I might take that off your hands, but I will have to see how this one plays out.

I did get the plunger out. I got it far enough out to where I could grab it with channel-locks and wiggle it out. During the process I broke off the little alignment peg, hopefully it isn't essential.

The carb is horrible. I seem to attract machines that had monkeys previously working on them. You'll see what I mean in the pics.

The trike:
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2250.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2249.jpg

Carb:
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2252.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2251.jpg

It's no wonder this thing didn't run. Instead of cleaning the screen or getting a new one, let's poke a hole in this one!
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2257.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2256.jpg

This was after a light cleaning.
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2255.jpg


http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2254.jpg

I have a question in this pic. As you can see what I think is the pilot jet is mangled and would turn but not screw out. If this isn't the pilot jet, what is it? It is right next to the main jet, in the shadow.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2253.jpg

[shortline10]

WOW ,that is the dirtiest cab ever . The alignment peg if broken off will mess with your idol . The slide needs to sit just right to get the correct air flow for idol .

[MonroeMike]

That is the nastiest carb I have ever seen.

I just realized there's a shop manual for your bike.

http://72.52.143.80/~trikes/atc90_73-78_atc110_79-81_servicemanual.pdf

[MrGiggles]

That is the nastiest carb I have ever seen.

I just realized there's a shop manual for your bike.

http://72.52.143.80/~trikes/atc90_73-78_atc110_79-81_servicemanual.pdf

I wonder what all that black crap is. It's hard to clean out though. I did end up getting the carb pretty clean, and the choke plate freed up. There may be life in store for this carb. I do need to get some new bowl and petcock screws though. The old ones were pretty bad.

About the alignment peg, do yo think I could drill out the "cap" they put on and put in a new peg? I don't see why not.

[HaggLE]

I would have submerged it in fuel for a week before touching it

[MonroeMike]

I'd try evaporust.

[MrGiggles]

Today I'm hopefully going to get the screws I need for the bowl and petcock. I will also get a new plug and see what happens after some more cleaning of the horrendous carb.

[Dirtcrasher]

I have a nice set of fenders and a decent seat for you. 1985 ATC110

Few other parts kickin around I'd throw in the box, like the sub tranny.....

[harryredtrike]

oh my god,get a new carb.that is going cause nightmares for years to come.also put a in line fuel filter on that thing,i'll bet the tank is solid rust.

[MrGiggles]

I plan on using a fuel filter, the tank had some rust in it but nothing bad. Surprisingly the tank has no holes that I can see.

I am working on getting a new carb right now, as well as a throttle cable. Until then I plan to start working on the rear end tomorrow. Is there any way besides dissassembling to see if everything in the tranny works? It shifts good through all 4 gears, but the N indicator doesn't line up.

[MrGiggles]

A new carb and cable is on the way.

I have taken the rear end down to what I can get to. I got it down to the chain sprcket side on one side, and what I think is the brake drum on the other. How does the brake drum come off? I got the two big nuts on the axle, the perimeter bolts around the cover, and the cover sides off. Does the hub have to come off? The previous owner decided to weld it on. I've gotten it down this far and the axle still won't budge.

[shortline10]

The brake drum is on splines and after the 2 large nuts are removed it should slide off .

[MrGiggles]

I've come to the conclusion that the brake lever is stuck, and stuck so the pads are holding the drum on. I'm trying to get the bugger loose but it's a tough one.

[MrGiggles]

No luck on getting the axle loose.

First I tried removing the brake cam lever and put the vice grips on the splined shaft to try and release it that way. The splines on the cam stripped off. Great.

Then I tried the brute force method by putting a 24" pipe wrench and cheater bar on the axle. No go.

Any tips on getting this thing off?

[shortline10]

Remove the chain and the 2 large nuts that hold the drum on , remove the brake side wheel hub and take a 2x4 piece of wood and a big hammer at least a 5 pounder and hit the axle a few times on the end wile using the wood as a cushion so not to damage the axle threads . Just don't miss it might hurt .:eek: :beer

Should come out . Use plenty of penetrating fluid on the drum splines as that's probably were its stuck .

I would say the brake arm is just froze from sitting so long and not really the cause of the axle being stuck . Like I said before its most likely the shoes came loose and binding in the drum . :)

[MrGiggles]

Remove the chain and the 2 large nuts that hold the drum on , remove the brake side wheel hub and take a 2x4 piece of wood and a big hammer at least a 5 pounder and hit the axle a few times on the end wile using the wood as a cushion so not to damage the axle threads . Just don't miss it might hurt .:eek: :beer

Should come out . Use plenty of penetrating fluid on the drum splines as that's probably were its stuck .

I would say the brake arm is just froze from sitting so long and not really the cause of the axle being stuck . Like I said before its most likely the shoes came loose and binding in the drum . :)

I will give that a shot tomorrow. Unfortunately I can't get the hub off because the schmuck who owned it before me welded it on. I'm pretty sure the brake is stuck on as well because of the angle the arm was at. Removing the chain isn't going to be easy either because the idiot PO alsodecided to weld the chain idler pully on it's shaft as well, I can probably grind it off though. Is there any adjustment to it?

If this doesn't work I am going to cut the damn drum off. Anyone done a disk brake conversion on one of these?

[MrGiggles]

I gave that a shot and no luck. I even used a 10lb sledge with no luck.

Any other ideas? I want to get a cutting wheel tomorrow and cut it off.

[shortline10]

I gave that a shot and no luck. I even used a 10lb sledge with no luck.

Any other ideas? I want to get a cutting wheel tomorrow and cut it off.


Spray lots of penetrating fluid at the splines on the drum . Can also use heat at the splines ,make sure you get it nice and hot and it should come out . .:beer

[MrGiggles]

Spray lots of penetrating fluid at the splines on the drum . Can also use heat at the splines ,make sure you get it nice and hot and it should come out . .:beer

I know that the shoes have to be stuck as well because the axle doesn't turn, I don't think the bearings would hold it stuck this good. Not to mention the brake cam I'm pretty sure is stuck holding the pads against the drum and also inside the drum wear ridge.

I have a question about your method. When I'm hammering on the end of the axle is it going to push the whole axle out of the bearing-holder or just vibrate it loose? Am I suppose to put pressure on the bottom of the drum while hammering?

[shortline10]

I know that the shoes have to be stuck as well because the axle doesn't turn, I don't think the bearings would hold it stuck this good. Not to mention the brake cam I'm pretty sure is stuck holding the pads against the drum and also inside the drum wear ridge.

I have a question about your method. When I'm hammering on the end of the axle is it going to push the whole axle out of the bearing-holder or just vibrate it loose? Am I suppose to put pressure on the bottom of the drum while hammering?

the axle should slide out of the bearing carrier pretty easy , its just the rusted drum splines holding it so a little heat should do the trick:beer

[MrGiggles]

the axle should slide out of the bearing carrier pretty easy , its just the rusted drum splines holding it so a little heat should do the trick:beer

I'll give that shot tomorrow now that I know better what I'm doing. Unfortunately my torch isn't at home so I can't heat it up. I think I am just going to try and beat the crap out of it. We'll see what happens. :D

[MrGiggles]

I did end up popping the axle out without much trouble. Not sure why it didn't go yesterday.

The drum is still stuck on though. Tried to turn it off with the pipe wrench and cheater bar, no luck. It is stuck bad.

I want to try and get the axle out completely, is the sprocket hub on splines like the brake drum? I have the sprocket off, can I use the same method to remove it?

[shortline10]

We might need pics because if the axle is loose the drum should be loose also . The only thing to hold the drum once the axle is loose are the shoes and a slight pull should make that come off . I think you need to cut the rigged weld job off the axle/hub and pop the hub off , remove the axle completely . more than likly the axle splines are fine and the hub was striped so it go welded . used hubs are very cheap .
The sprocket hub is not removable so the axle only comes out the one side .

[MrGiggles]

We might need pics because if the axle is loose the drum should be loose also . The only thing to hold the drum once the axle is loose are the shoes and a slight pull should make that come off . I think you need to cut the rigged weld job off the axle/hub and pop the hub off , remove the axle completely . more than likly the axle splines are fine and the hub was striped so it go welded . used hubs are very cheap .
The sprocket hub is not removable so the axle only comes out the one side .

It's probably hard to see in the pics but the axle is completely off the drum splines. The axle isn't hindering the hub in any way, I can wiggle the axle inside the drum.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2339.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2339.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2337.jpg

[shortline10]

Just use a small pry bar against the frame to get the drum loose just dont damage the frame . Wow they really welded the hub on good . hope you dont need axle bearings because the axle will have to come out .

[MrGiggles]

Just use a small pry bar against the frame to get the drum loose just dont damage the frame . Wow they really welded the hub on good . hope you dont need axle bearings because the axle will have to come out .

Yeah whoever it was made sure it wasn't coming off again.

I've bent a couple screwdrivers prying between the frame and drum. It's on there good. I'll work on it more tomorrow. It got dark on me too quick today.

[mopar_man]

Let me get outside and take a picture of how that all comes apart. I just recently took the axle apart on a parts machine, which was also my first time taking a 90/110 axle apart.

[mopar_man]

Having a better look at your pictures and description, I don't think you need my pictures. It sounds like the bearings are possibly seized to the axle shaft, which isn't totally out of line since it sat for a long time before you got it. I think a little persuasion from a sledge hammer on the right side (drum side) might be the only option. Squirt a quality penetrating lube into the bearings and let it sit. I hate when people get a welder. The chain tensioner on the parts bike I have was welded on. The same thing happened to the '78 I have. :mad:

[1979ATC110]

Yeah whoever it was made sure it wasn't coming off again.

I've bent a couple screwdrivers prying between the frame and drum. It's on there good. I'll work on it more tomorrow. It got dark on me too quick today.

Keep at it, it's worth it. I bought a basket case ATC110 back in September - arrived looking like this

http://www.vftshop.com/images/others/ATC110%20%282sm%29.jpg

Finished restoring her a few days ago - great fun :p

http://www.vftshop.com/images/others/atc-110%20%282%29.jpg

[MrGiggles]

Keep at it, it's worth it. I bought a basket case ATC110 back in September - arrived looking like this

http://www.vftshop.com/images/others/ATC110%20%282sm%29.jpg

Finished restoring her a few days ago - great fun :p

http://www.vftshop.com/images/others/atc-110%20%282%29.jpg

You did a great job on that bike. I'd be happy if mine turned out half as good.

I did get the drum off though. The shoes were holding it on, I had to bend the "lip" of metal that hangs off the frame towards the rear, and hammer on the drum from the backside. One pad was stuck real good, the other popped off after a little bit of prying. The cam is still froze.

It turns out the N indicator does line up. I didn't know this tranny goes into gear on a downstroke of the pedal. It shifts good and is a rolling chassis now.

Is it safe to put inner tubes in these tires? Mine are cracked pretty good, but I could get more life out of them if I put a tube in.

[shortline10]

Glade to here you got it apart .:beer Gonna have to use common sence judgement on the tires being dry rotted if its not too bad use em , might want to air them up and give them a little ride around the yard to see if they fly apart :wondering :lol: :w00t: . Your carb should be in the mail tomorrow and hopfully you will have it by saturday .:D

[mopar_man]

Good to hear you got it all apart. You can tube the tires. It won't hurt anything.

[MrGiggles]

Glade to here you got it apart .:beer Gonna have to use common sence judgement on the tires being dry rotted if its not too bad use em , might want to air them up and give them a little ride around the yard to see if they fly apart :wondering :lol: :w00t: . Your carb should be in the mail tomorrow and hopfully you will have it by saturday .:D

They have some fairly bad cracking, the rears do hold air somewhat though. They still have really good tread and I would like to prolong their use as much as I can.

Sounds good about the carb. :)

I have a question about the compression. How much of a "bump" should I feel while pulling it over? Right now I can hardly feel it.

[shortline10]

They have some fairly bad cracking, the rears do hold air somewhat though. They still have really good tread and I would like to prolong their use as much as I can.

Sounds good about the carb. :)

I have a question about the compression. How much of a "bump" should I feel while pulling it over? Right now I can hardly feel it.

A stock 110 motor really doesnt have a-lot of "bump" :D . Once you get it up and running hopefully its enough :lol: .

[1985BigRed250ES]

here are a couple of pics of my 1980 110. >1979ATC110 was your seat pan rotted on your 110?

I do not have any before pics but mine was in about the same shape as 1979ATC110's 110.

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu236/2005recones/1980HondaATC1109.jpg

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu236/2005recones/1980HondaATC1.jpg

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu236/2005recones/1980HondaATC1104.jpg

:TrikesOwn

[1979ATC110]

The tyres on mine are quite badly cracked and wouldn't stay up for more than a few days, so I bought some tubes and they're fine now, but I had some trouble putting them on because the valves on the tubes don't line up with the holes in the rims - might be worth checking before you buy them.

I'd avoid the Chinese carbs, I unknowingly bought one and it's crap - I'm going to get a kit and recon the old one.

[MrGiggles]

I haven't done any work to it today. I have to take the drum cover back off and hammer the drum back on the splines all the way. When I was trying to wrench off the drum I bent the spline surface a little bit and it didn't go on all the way so the axle has way too much play in it.

[MrGiggles]

Well I recieved my carb and cable today and its all fine and dandy, but I think the trike has a valve problem. When you pull the engine over air blows out of the carb on the compression stroke. A new valve is pretty cheap. If I pull the head do I have to get a new gasket?

[MudBug]

yeah, you have to get at least a new base and head gasket if you take the jug off

[MrGiggles]

Here is a little update on the 110.

I did get it running and it runs surprisingly well. I had to clean the points again to finally get it working, and a new spark plug. It ran surprisingly well. It shifts great through all the gears and I got the H/L lever freed up as well.

What I have left to do:

It has an oil leak that I think is coming from a bade camshaft seal. It leaks from the points cover where the wire comes out.

I'm going to order new rings tomorrow then hone the cylinder and install them. It runs okay now but smokes and needs refreshing.

I have a gasket set and am going to replace every seal in the head with new.

I need to either get tubes in the rear tires or fix them. They leak pretty bad.

Since a new set of fenders is going to be hard to find and expensive, I'm going to try and retro fit some from something else for now.

The seat pan has to be re-made out of fiberglass and upholstered.

The blue gas tank isn't original, not sure if I'm going to paint it or not.

I need new handlebar grips, I'll probably steal them from an old bike.

The brake cam is seized good and the splines are stripped, I will need a new one as well as new brake shoes.

As you can see I still have my hands full, but I will keep updating as I go.

[shortline10]

The camshaft seal is a pain in the butt on the 90/110 atc . Their is a little metal spring that holds the seal tight to the shaft and it likes to pop off when you slide the seal on the cam . The trick is to oil the shaft and and seal , when sliding the seal over the cam hold the points housing on an angle while turning it at the same time .

[mopar_man]

Since a new set of fenders is going to be hard to find and expensive, I'm going to try and retro fit some from something else for now.

If you can't find anything from a 90 or a 110, something from a 125 might work. I'm pretty positive the my '78 ATC90 had fenders from a 185 on it when I bought it. You just need to trim the plastic around the recoil.

[jason85atc250r]

just letting you know the rear fenders you have are from a 83-85 model 110. For the blue tank you mite have a 83-84 blue model 110 tank post a pic

I have mountians of ols atc90/110 parts Pm me if interested. For the rear rims get some from a Yamaha trike they are not split rims and the same 3 lug.

[UlsterATCFan]

Really interesting thread, congrats on getting her this far :beer

[MrGiggles]

The camshaft seal is a pain in the butt on the 90/110 atc . Their is a little metal spring that holds the seal tight to the shaft and it likes to pop off when you slide the seal on the cam . The trick is to oil the shaft and and seal , when sliding the seal over the cam hold the points housing on an angle while turning it at the same time .

Well that would be why it was leaking. The metal band popped off and I never put it back on. When I tear down for the new rings I will have to replace it.

[MrGiggles]

just letting you know the rear fenders you have are from a 83-85 model 110. For the blue tank you mite have a 83-84 blue model 110 tank post a pic

I have mountians of ols atc90/110 parts Pm me if interested. For the rear rims get some from a Yamaha trike they are not split rims and the same 3 lug.

Really? I guess this has a lot of non-original parts then. The wheels seem to be alright, the tires are pretty cracked though. You have a PM on the way.

[MrGiggles]

I've been doing a little researching and found out they made blue 110's for some Holiday special in 83 and 84. This must be where my blue tank came from. Is this one worth anything more than a regular red one? It has no holes but it a little rusty inside. The paint is in pretty bad shape also. I want to know because I will probably sand it down and re-paint it.

I ordered rings on Friday night, so they will hopefully be here Wed. or Thurs. It also happens that it's supposed be up to 47 those days and that is plenty warm enough to start tearing the engine down for the last time.

For those who want current pics, I am about to get snap a couple now.

[MrGiggles]

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2382.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2381.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2384.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2383.jpg

As you can see there is no hope for my rear fenders.

Where is the VIN at on these? I found a number on the fork mount on the frame, but it doesn't seem to be the right format. It's TBO2-2075175.

Oh and BTW, please excuse the mess in the garage. :)

[KRB110]

now thats my kind of repair

[MonroeMike]

Tb02-2075175 = 1980

[MrGiggles]

Tb02-2075175 = 1980

Thanks.

My rings came in today, that means another final teardown. I brought the camera with. So far so good. I'll be putting it back together tomorrow.

What I started with.
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2387.jpg

10 Minutes in:
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2389.jpg

This is probably the culprit for my oil leak. I'm pretty sure this seal is past saving. Are these readily available? I have the metal band.
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2388.jpg

Pic of the head:
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2390.jpg

Jug from the top:
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2391.jpg

The slug:
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2392.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2393.jpg

The rust in the cylinder (there are some very minor pits left after the hone but it is 100x better) The horizontal scratches are from me tested to see if the hone fit.:
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2394.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/cheechy___chong/100_2395.jpg

My camera has a really poor macro mode, sorry about that. That concludes my work day. ;)

[riverrat]

LOL, I was responding to the last post on page one.
That's a lot of work there. Good luck with it.

[MrGiggles]

Things didn't go so smoothly today. While I was putting the cylinder on one of the rings broke and of course it fell down in the engine. What do you guys think? Put it together with an old ring, run it and hope for the best?

I tried taping a magnet to a piece of wire and snaking it around in there, no luck. It's about a 2" piece of ring.

[MrGiggles]

I ended up having a stroke of luck today, it turns out the ring didn't actually fall in the engine but instead down the frame. I found it on the ground under it.

But I still have the issue of the broken ring. It was the top compression that broke, should I try and put it together with on of the old ones and see what happens?

[shortline10]

what is the ring gap of the old ring ? that will determine if you could use it .

[MrGiggles]

what is the ring gap of the old ring ? that will determine if you could use it .

To check that don't I push the ring down the cylinder and check it with a feeler gauge?

[shortline10]

To check that don't I push the ring down the cylinder and check it with a feeler gauge?





yep , you can check at both ends of the cylinder and that will also tell you how much ware is in the cylinder to . The bottom side of the sleeve should be at 52mm if its a stock bore . I wouldn't use the rings if their more than say:wondering 20 thousandths ring gap:) .

[MrGiggles]

I just had a look at them and the top compression was about .015 and the 2nd was .027. I'm going to see if I can get the rings replaced though. I wasn't hammering on them or anything and they shouldn't have broke.

[MrGiggles]

I got everything put back together today with the old ring that wasn't too bad. I had it running good for a little bit until the pull rope broke.

[Getmoresoon]

Dude, you are an inspiration! That poor old 110 looks to need far more TLC than my 185! Fun to watch your progress. Good luck!

[MrGiggles]

Dude, you are an inspiration! That poor old 110 looks to need far more TLC than my 185! Fun to watch your progress. Good luck!

Thanks. This is the only thing I've worked on that continually bites me back. If you have the timing a bit advanced, it will jerk the rope out of your fingers, bounce off your chest, and hit you in the balls. I just have to walk by it and it rubs on me and cuts me.

I went and got some new rope and got the recoil in ship-shape and got it running again. Not very good, but running none-the-less. It is very boggy and I think it has a bad condenser because the points are burnt a little causing it to miss often. I also stuck the exhaust on the right way this time and it is unbelievable how quiet it is at idle.

[shortline10]

:lol:Quote ( bounce off your chest, and hit you in the balls ):lol: Hey It scares the trailprotrailprotrailprotrailpro out of me every time I go to start my Dickson atc90/180cc . I use a 185s pull start handle just so i have a better grip:naughty:

[MonroeMike]

Hate when that happens.

Glad it runs for ya.

[MrGiggles]

I've been toying with it some and can't seem to get it to run worth a crap. I retarded the timing a bit, it doesn't kick back anymore but it didn't help the way it runs. It still doesn't seem to be revving out like it should and it has hardly any power. Sound like a carb issue? I changed the intake and carb gasket, so I don't think it has an air leak.Would a faulty spark advancer cause it to run with now power?

[riverrat]

What is the compression?
Is the cam chain in correctly?

[MrGiggles]

The compression seems good, it is better than it was before the rebuild when it was running good for sure.

I'm 90% sure the cam and timing chain is in correctly.

Edit:

It's running good now. :)

It turns out the muffler is plugged pretty good with something or another. It runs strong now.

[riverrat]

Kicking back sounds like a timing issue. So double check the timing of the cam, and there has to be a way to check the spark timing with a timing light. Although I've never done it on a 110.
Somewhere in this site is a link to the manual for that bike.

[MrGiggles]

I forgot to post back last night but I figured it out and the muffler was plugged up. Today I cut a little off of it and it runs great with the muffler on now.

Me and my brother took it out on a little trail ride with my Bayou and the little bugger didn't skip a beat. The only problem is that it doesn't like to idle, but I'm sure that's just a piece of rust from the tank plugging up the idle jet, easy fix.

[MonroeMike]

Cool that it's running for you.