Long hours at the trikes, no payoff!

[MudBug]

had some spare time tonight so I decided to go work on the trike. While my beater is still just a frame and a box of parts, Im switching some good parts over to my trusty rider. I decide to switch carbs and cables to see if there was any difference. Took about an hour to successfully get the carb off. Had alot of trouble with the airbox tubes and such. Not to mention that gas flicked in my eye, and I had to be bare hand and its blistering cold in a garage with no heat. anyway, when putting the other one it took me even longer! the darn thing was taking every possible obstacle and throwing it in my face. Finally got the tank and cables all adjusted and such, and she fired right up. I noticed a difference right away, but it is still doing the same thing as my old one. Stumbling when I hit the throttle. But I do admit it feels alot smoother with the new cable, and it feels to have a bit more power :wondering So maybe tommorow im going to tinker with the air screw. I loosen it to get a leaner mix right? And while my original one is out Ill throw a jet kit in it and adjust it as well. Hope im not boring you guys, its been a LONG day...:lol:

[Dirtcrasher]

Sometimes it just stinks!!

Thats why I'm so glad that the SX and the 350X are always SO dependable!

I maintain them and they just run and run......

It's lousy when you just wanna ride and nothing works out and it's cold and carb cleaner goes in your eye and etc etc etc.........

[daniel_250r]

i know how you feel my big red just won't run right either, its got a brand new carb, air filter spark plug, gas and it still idles high and back fires

[200XMichigan]

I use nitrile gloves, its not as bad, cuz the gas isn't evaporating right off your skin, also its nice if you want to eat something in the shop and don't have a sink. Nitrile won't dissolve with gas, latex pretty much turn to liquid with gas.

[MudBug]

just one of those days I guess, hope I have some luck the next time I go at it again :D

[Pafrig]

Try adjusting the ignotion timing

[Autophysn]

Dude, That Is Half The Fun, The Challenge!!!!!!!!!!!!lol!

[Custom200]

I use nitrile gloves, its not as bad, cuz the gas isn't evaporating right off your skin, also its nice if you want to eat something in the shop and don't have a sink. Nitrile won't dissolve with gas, latex pretty much turn to liquid with gas.

I dont have a sink in my garage and with all the food i've eaten in in there id say theres more gas and oil in me than blood:lol:

[oldskool83]

u should get a electric space heater. i use one in my garage about 2-3 hours before i wanna work in there, so when i go to work its about 65-70 degrees and hotter the closer i place the heater to the bikes.

[harryredtrike]

you have to put some kind of heat out in the shop.try to find an old wood burner from somewhere,if you want free heat.or a torpedo heater for quick heat.

[Kintore]

I know where you are coming from,

I just transferred all of my stuff to our old milkhouse from dairy farming, 20 by 20 and insulated. A propane heater in there and its T shirt or sweatshirt working weather!

[MudBug]

it has a really big furnace but we have no oil! hahahahha :lol:

[harryredtrike]

ha ha i hear ya.

[Gearheadtom]

I hate working in the cold. My 200m has an oil leak right now, and I'm not going to fix until we get a warmer, not windy day, hopefully I won't have to wait untill spring for that.
My garage isn't insolated, but what I usualy do is lite my kerosean heater then set my tools on top of it, and work in front of it.

[oldskool83]

take it inside...started building my one 3wheeler in my room. i think imma build my 300ex in my familyroom!

[Yamaha_Rules69]

You want to go in on that screw to lean the mixture. The screw on the 185/200s is a pilot FUEL screw, the opposite of the air screw. Good luck

[MudBug]

thanks, but its a 250 Big red

[MTS]

I do believe there was a Cold start update for the BR's...something to do with the vent lines, might want to look into that a bit, as for the Pilot screw, generally speaking if the screw is on the Intake side (closest to air box) its an air- screw, and if its on the motor side its fuel.

[MudBug]

well another long day at the dumb carbs. tried adjusting the air screw on the first carb. It broke off. So shes staying lean for a long time. Then put the other carb in, got it running and played with the screw and kept checking the bog when I hit the throttle. I went both ways until she would cut out, and nowhere in between would it run right. so can I solve this problem with a jet kit? it runs great after that stumble when I punch it from idle.

[MTS]

Try it without the air box lid...See if its better or worse...Good indication if its lean/rich, Might have to adjust your needle too, And these motor's where not ment to pick up that quick..Had this problem with alot of the smaller honda's Little easier on the thumb helps

[MudBug]

thats a good idea I'll try that. do you mean needle height? I never checked the clip yet, but I will tommorow. Its not that im punching it all the time, its just that my cherry big red doesnt do it, and id rather it run right.

[MTS]

Yes the needle height...Higher the clip the less fuel... a crappy needle+seat in the bowl will cause over rich conditions to, along with bad floats/o-rings ect... Should be adjusting this while its warm too.

[MudBug]

Ok, thanks for your help ill tear into her again tommorow. I think I just might get it running good enough for this winter and im rebuilding the top end in the spring.

[Dirtcrasher]

Just some thoughts for you:

The ES/SX carb is generally a Keihin 03 carb, the better carb is the Keihin 08, which has a starter jet that threads onto the side of the jet tube/ orifice. It has to have the rubber plug on the top to work.

The old carbs have that starter jet pressed in and they are a bit too small, I believe it's about .070 or .080 drill that gets those guys to where they will start when cold (double check that though!!)

The pilot jet has all the tiny holes in the sides, they all have to be clear.

The jet needle (in the slide) put it in the center position and it will be fine for starting points.

Keep the lid on and a clean air filter (lightly oiled)

ALL the jets (aside from the pressed in one) should be removed, soaked and reinstalled.

Make sure to run an inline filter! unless that tank and petcock and screen are spotless!

The airscrew, remove it. It has to go screw/spring/washer and oring last (or first in towards the carb body) Then lightly bottom it and turn it out 1.5 or 2 turns for STARTS.

Once clean and ready to run, turn on the petcock, wait 2 minutes. Turn off the petcock. Loosen the fuel bowl drain screw on the bottom of the bowl and about a half shot glass of fuel has to be in there or there is a fuel delivery problem.

Hope some of this may help :beer: I didn't read your whole dilema, I just know what usually works or fails..........

EDIT - Stock motors and stock carbs shouldn't be such a CUN.... for you guys. If you get the basic stuff done, it ought to run and be close. Air leaks can be another issue, some guys silicone the crap outta stuff, forget the intake oring, have the wrong boot clamps and so on and so forth. The basics usually work :D