View Full Version : Help ATC110 W/ 125M motor. wont start
TheFamer
12-12-2009, 01:39 AM
Hey everyone. i am working on a 83 ATC110 frame with a 125 motor swapped in. the batter box has been welded in on the back. it has a ace hardware push button starter switch. and no key ignition! so i have a brand new battery for it that is fully charged with 12.73V. i push the button and nothing happens.
since then i have started using my ohm meter and see if they work. i have never really done this before. i talked it over with my journeymen electrician buddy. tested the negative cable and got .6 ohms. then i tested the positive cable to the solenoid had about the same. but i am thinking that since i had no reading between the two high tension leads. making be believe that is faulty.
after looking around i found the neutral switch was unplugged. and most of the lighting wires (blue and white and brown) going to nothing. it is missing the headlight and tail light. i think i can bypass the solenoid to check the starter motor. but i feel that since there is no key its not in the "ON" position. i have cleaned the kill switch and had good readings with the kill switch.
anyways i will grab some pictures in the morning. show you all the customization
Thanks for any input into this problem. also if anyone has a solenoid that works for these i may need one.
85Tecate
12-12-2009, 01:37 PM
Hey everyone. i am working on a 83 ATC110 frame with a 125 motor swapped in. the batter box has been welded in on the back. it has a ace hardware push button starter switch. and no key ignition! so i have a brand new battery for it that is fully charged with 12.73V. i push the button and nothing happens.
since then i have started using my ohm meter and see if they work. i have never really done this before. i talked it over with my journeymen electrician buddy. tested the negative cable and got .6 ohms. then i tested the positive cable to the solenoid had about the same. but i am thinking that since i had no reading between the two high tension leads. making be believe that is faulty.
after looking around i found the neutral switch was unplugged. and most of the lighting wires (blue and white and brown) going to nothing. it is missing the headlight and tail light. i think i can bypass the solenoid to check the starter motor. but i feel that since there is no key its not in the "ON" position. i have cleaned the kill switch and had good readings with the kill switch.
anyways i will grab some pictures in the morning. show you all the customization
Thanks for any input into this problem. also if anyone has a solenoid that works for these i may need one.
I would first be checking to make sure the starter and solenoid are good. Then you have to ground the nuetral switch to bypass it i believe. Then all thats left is to switch the two main solenoid wires with the pushbutton. (The ones you cross to start it with a screwdriver) Should be fine then.
Edit* Your ignition is unplugged it should be working how it is. Its a normally open circuit. If, however you want to kill the engine without pulling the plug wire you're going to have to put a kill switch/tether switch of some sort on it. Or know which two wires to plug back together to kill it. I couldnt tell you which ones they are without looking at a schematic. I think maybe black/grn but not sure.
TheFamer
12-12-2009, 04:27 PM
so i had my father who is a electrical engineer come look at it. we tested the solenoid and found it to be in working order. then we jumped it and it clicks and stays on. we checked the wires to make sure they were complete and found no problems. so we tested the push button switch and low and behold that was faulty. so now i will put it all back together and try the new switch out. i will go get pictures at the same time.
harryredtrike
12-12-2009, 05:51 PM
alot of juice goes through those, so get a good one and not just a pretty one
TheFamer
12-13-2009, 12:36 AM
lots of juice? in the starter switch? it seems to be working fine. i had to clean out his 2 month old carb because of a clogged pilot jet. then still wouldnt start. found out the needle was in position 5 (all the way down) put that back to middle (position 3) and tuned it from there. got it to run, ran it around through the bumpy plowed fields did fine. until the battery fell out.. hehehe.
anyways i am getting a really black and wet plug. i have to clean it alot to keep it firing after trying to start it for awhile. but it runs!! he has this super ghetto air box with a dryer hose clamped onto the carb and ducked tape on the air box. with a UNI airfilter that was dirty and dry as a bone. sprayed that down with uni cleaner then reoiled it. that should help. he has bad bad oil in it. im sure its car oil thats not helping anything. i am out of honda oil so its up to him to get more.
i have some pictures of the wiring and air box and batery box. and a shot of the frame tag that says ATC110 and the motor with 125 in the same pic.
MonroeMike
12-14-2009, 06:30 AM
If this helps at all.
From a 125m manual
Pilot screw, 1-3/8 turns
Needle clip, 2nd groove
TheFamer
12-14-2009, 03:43 PM
Hey Guys.
i have found some new vital information about this thing. it has one of those ISO performance carbs from ebay on it. the "direct honda replacement" crap. anyways i wanted to check the jets again and make sure everything was clean in the carb. and noticed there are no numbers on the main jet or pilot jet. when i checked the needle placement it was in position 5 all the way down. i returned it to the 2nd groove. Thanks MonroeMike!
And nothing.. cranked it for awhile. nothing, i keep checking the spark plug and its always wet, i clean it off, check the gap then test and it seems weak. not bright blue. noticing that i checked the resistor in the spark plug housing. it was dirty but the one thing i didnt see.. was the little spring that puts tension on the resistor. so i stole one out of my main bike and tested. it still wont start but the spark seems better.
i dont know what to do, the jetting will be thrown off because of his lawnmower muffler exhaust system that is JB welded on, that leaks all over the place and is shorter. will any of the 185 exhaust systems work for it? what models fit these? its a 110 frame with the 125 motor remember...
Thanks for any help
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