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honda200x1987
01-15-2010, 07:09 PM
Here are some more pictures of a fender that I restored . It is off of a 1986 ATC200X and it turned out real well. If anyone has any questions on how this is done just ask.

jays375
01-15-2010, 07:21 PM
Looks great!What was the process and how long?

the great gazoo
01-15-2010, 07:24 PM
Keeeriest, that's a shiny azs fender, nice work, & I'm asking. How'ja make it look that pretty?

honda200x1987
01-15-2010, 07:55 PM
First thing, Do not use any kind of polish! that will not help any. You only use sand paper, I started with 2000 grit wet sand paper. keep it good and wet while sanding. My fender did not have any deep scratches so I just used the 2000 grit. You may have to start with 800 or 1000 to 1500 to 2000. Then wash the fender real good then dry. It will have a dull finish but don't be alarmed, the buffer will take care of that. For the last step use a" RANDOM ORBITAL POLISHER/BUFFER" ,it's made by" PERFORMANCE TOOL". it comes with 1 TERRY CLOTH BONNET and 1 Synthetic Wool Bonnet, DO NOT USE THE TERRY CLOTH BONNET! Only use the Synthetic Wool Bonnet.. Now you will have to buff buff buff, it took me about 2 hrs or so to get that OEM look shine. I recommend on the first hour of buffing to apply some pressure but not too much when buffing the fender, the 2nd hour of buffing barley glide the synthetic wool bonnet on the fender as the speed will increase on the buffer giving it a near perfect shine. THEN YOU ARE FINISHED! Note: don't get discouraged when buffing as this will take some time to get results, just BUFF BUFF BUFF! If you do it right,, there will be absolutely no swirls in the fender , just like it came new. I recommend starting with 1000 grit to 2000 or just 2000 grit, unless you have deep scrathes then start with the lower grit, just depends how deep the scratches are. { NOTE } When you are done sanding with the 2000 grit sandpaper, make sure that you have all the sratches out or they will show up after buffing.The 2000 grit scrathces will buff out to a perfect shine without any swirls or anything. Its the deeper scratches that will show up but will still be very shiny but ,"only the 2000 grit scratches will come out with the buffer",even the smallest scratch will show . So make sure you sand it perfectly smooth. Only then will it be absoltuley perfect finish & shine.

honda200x1987
01-15-2010, 08:07 PM
One other thing you should know, Honda does not use any kind clear coating on plastic fenders as I have proved so. They are polished but in a different method when in the molding process.

bigpimpin
01-15-2010, 08:40 PM
real nice, bro

honda200x1987
01-15-2010, 08:43 PM
Thanks guys, here is a picture of the buffer I used.

bigpimpin
01-15-2010, 08:46 PM
you don't have before pics?

honda200x1987
01-15-2010, 08:51 PM
Here are some before pictures, the first picture is the 2000 grit sandpaper and the other is the before.

honda200x1987
01-15-2010, 09:00 PM
LOOKY what I scored! I just got me a BRAND NEW IN THE BOX 1986-87 ATC200X rear fender, long discontinued and very expensive , I have seen these go from 900 to 2000 bucks! I cannot beleive it my self, I got the rear fender ,rear fender support, hardware and rubber grommets all for 235 bucks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NEW OEM NOS ! hale yaeya. This will make my 1987 ATC200X resto over the top!

honda200x1987
01-15-2010, 09:05 PM
The 1986 200x stickers I have pictured will be for sale , I will not need them for my 87 build.

bigpimpin
01-15-2010, 10:48 PM
where did you score the rear fender?

honda200x1987
01-15-2010, 11:02 PM
A guy my brother is working with said he had no time to fool with his build so he is selling off his nos parts, the conversation come up when he mentioned my build.

TheRealFatShady
01-16-2010, 12:44 AM
Wow, nice find!

Also, very impressive job. Any idea how it will do on metal?

And did you get that buffer locally?
Found one here:
http://www.autotrucktoys.com/dodge_caliber/Performance-Tool-10-Random-Orbital-Polish-Buffer-P28714C8897.aspx

But would rather get locally to avoid shipping price.

honda200x1987
01-16-2010, 12:53 AM
I believe it will work on aluminum and chrome just fine and you might want to start with the terry cloth on the aluminum then the synthetic but mother's polish works well on those metals, I bought this buffer at O'ReiLey's AUTO PARTS STORE. I'm not sure if you can get them online, I haven't looked. What kind of metal are you wanting to polish?

honda200x1987
01-16-2010, 01:00 AM
I got my buffer at Oreiley's auto parts in metropolis il. for 29.99 I am sure there a store near you, they compete with AUTOZONE. Make sure the buffer you buy has the synthetic bonnet with it.

honda200x1987
01-17-2010, 10:05 PM
If anyone has any questions on polishing plastic,feel free to pm me.

JohnR.
01-17-2010, 10:12 PM
That buffer looks exactly like the one I got from Sears. Nice job on the polishing BTW. I need to do my short track tank on my R. Maybe I'll try your method this week.

John

honda200x1987
01-17-2010, 10:28 PM
Make sure you use the synthetic wool bonnet only, it will take a few hours of buffing but if you do it right it will look brand new without any swirls. The trick is to barely glide the bonnet across the tank at the last hour of bufffing alowing it to spin a faster speed and it will give it a mirror like swirl free shine. Just buff buff buff, the more you buff the better the shine. When finished it should look brand spankin new if done right.

JohnR.
01-17-2010, 10:41 PM
Yeah, mine came in a bucket with a couple terry cloth, a couple blue, and one synthetic wool one. If I do it I have to do the whole 9 yards from wet sand up, there are some pitted/chalky spots that I buffed out years ago and are starting to return even though it spends its time out of the sun.

Billy Golightly
01-17-2010, 10:45 PM
Wow, that is an awesome job. I'd love to make this an article on the main page in the Technical section, but I need all the information/pictures in the first post. If you can do that I'll be happy to set it up there for ya :beer:

honda200x1987
01-17-2010, 10:48 PM
if you do it the way i did it will look new and stay that way.

honda200x1987
01-17-2010, 10:58 PM
Sure Billy ! I am absolutley confident that this process will solve problems with having to find discontinued hard to find or extinct OEM plastics.

honda200x1987
01-18-2010, 12:19 PM
Hey "tryker" hope this thread helps.

harryredtrike
01-19-2010, 02:47 AM
looks real good need pics of her all together

TheRealFatShady
01-19-2010, 06:39 PM
Did you use liquid as wet sandpaper, or sheets?

honda200x1987
01-19-2010, 10:03 PM
wet sand paper sheets and keep it wet,try to start with the highest grit you can like 1000 1500 or 2000 grit and keep it wet as you can. Here are some pictures i have attached, when you start to buff it will take a few hours to get the shine you need, the more you buff the shinier it gets and the key is to barley glide the buffing wheel at the last hour or 2.,,,,, It takes time but well worth it.

QCR77
01-19-2010, 10:39 PM
so using this method, how long should i spend on wet sanding and buffing for rear fender of 350X. like 4 hours each?

honda200x1987
01-19-2010, 11:08 PM
I would guess atleast fourto six hours but i'm a perfectionist. It just depends on how good you want it to look and how fast you work and how bad the fender is. There is no real way to tell how long it will take as it depends how bad the scratches are. The more you buff the better the shine and if you do it right it will look like new. The hard work will pay off, I recommend you practice on and old fender. One thing is clear ,,the buffer will NOT get the fender hot as long as you use the synthetic pad. Mine stayed cold the whole time.

QCR77
01-19-2010, 11:26 PM
ok, im gonna start prob tomorrow. thanks for the thread

honda200x1987
01-19-2010, 11:46 PM
let me know how it turns out.

JohnR.
01-20-2010, 12:01 AM
Have you ever tried to get one of the old non-shiny Maier fenders to shine? I would think that by going through the steps with the wet sanding and all you could get them to shine. Kind of like how you can start off with a rough, dull piece of aluminum and get a nice shine on it with a lot of time and elbow grease.

QCR77
01-20-2010, 12:36 AM
i sure will. im gonna go take some before pics right now so i dont forget. your method will surely be put to the test

eyecekold1
01-20-2010, 04:10 AM
I wish that I could start out with 1000 on my 350x fenders I had to do 220 wet to get the gouges left in it from my wreck a while back. This thread gives me hope for my project.

QCR77
01-20-2010, 10:42 PM
here are a couple pics of the fender im gonna do. i dont know if these are scratches or micro surface cracks but theyre black and in a strange pattern. i wish you could see it better

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj13/brian302_bucket/350x/350x032.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj13/brian302_bucket/350x/350x033.jpg

JohnR.
01-20-2010, 11:14 PM
It almost looks like someone painted those and the paint is cracking.

honda200x1987
01-20-2010, 11:49 PM
I have seen this before, it looks as if it is weather cracked. This happens when the fender is subject to heat ,cold rain,sun etc. it is dried out. It could be cracked paint but I think it is the fender showing it's age from the weather from what I see, Try sanding them out ,It could be just the surface of the fender.

QCR77
01-20-2010, 11:56 PM
im gonna have to take some better pics. i know you get the idea though. its almost like thats the way the fenders were made. i dunno, but im gonna wet sand and buff