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View Full Version : Just my luck, I seriously can't believe it



inv3ctiv3
01-28-2010, 07:56 PM
So I am sure you guys are aware of my broken bolt situation.....well I got the new gasket on and the clutch cover back on, decompression arm set, clutch cable back on and as I am going back over everything making sure nothing is loose....the bolt behind the kick start holding the clutch cover on was loose so I barely even tightening and guess what......SNAP! That bolt broke off....I am beyond pissed about this. I didn't torque it super hard or anything, stupid old bolts just snap. And the clutch doesn't disengage it from gear so I am not so sure what I did wrong there but I gotta completely re-do this whole thing.....I am at my wit's end with this stupid thing. Did I miss something when I put the clutch cover back on, why does the clutch not work? The cable might not be adjusted?

Yamaha_Rules69
01-28-2010, 08:38 PM
I would pull the clutch cover back off, and make sure the actuator arm is lined up correctly, and everything else is correct. With the bolts that small (8mm, right?) you always want to use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet, and the shorter the better. No need for a long ratchet or excessive force for such small bolts, especially on the motor. Hopefully the stud comes out as easy as it did last time! Good luck.

big yeller
01-28-2010, 09:04 PM
yep i second the ideal of a 1/4" drive ractchet...i learned that on a oil filter cover on a 220 bayou quad. i generally tighten it up with my finger then go a 3/4 a turn with the ratchet.

mopar_man
01-28-2010, 09:05 PM
If you've got a service manual, it should tell you torque specs on those.

jays375
01-28-2010, 09:06 PM
Another thing you should do is chase the threads.There can be debris,sealer and all kinds of stuff in the hole.Plus oxidation can cause you problems also.If the gasket pulls off clean I would reuse it.Don't put any sealer on it if you reinstall.

JohnR.
01-28-2010, 09:11 PM
After chasing the threads with a tap I like to apply a little grease or anti-seize to the threads. Steel bolts going into an aluminum case are sure fire recipe for corrosion.

John

oldtime3wheeler
01-28-2010, 09:24 PM
Use a torque wrench on all bolts. Plus replace them over time when redoing the clutch etc. Also like JohnR. said use anti-seize on your bolts before putting them back in.

inv3ctiv3
01-29-2010, 03:47 AM
Yea well she's back on her side with the clutch cover off.....this bolt is a bit deeper so I hope it comes out ok....I am kinda at my wit's end with this thing. I really hate buying used stuff cause you never really know it's condition until you take it apart. It always rode and drove fine but once you start taking stuff apart you open old wounds that may have been jimmy rigged.....

New problems:

Clutch doesn't work, when you pull the clutch you can kind of pull the trike forward but not easily at all
Rear brakes appear to leak fluid (they were totally empty and I just filled up the resevoir....)
When you try and roll the trike backwards it feels like the rear brake is on halfway but when you roll forward it doesn't feel as bad

I am tempted to completely pull the trike apart and get the frame/parts powdercoated and painted and restore the bike but I don't have the time/money right now. Sorry for the rant but I am really frustrated with this now.

Side Wayz
01-29-2010, 03:53 AM
Hope things work out bro, you'll get it done!

NOS_350X
01-29-2010, 03:56 AM
Thats the problem wiht any 3 wheeler you buy, they are all old and used, no matter how nice they look there can still be problmes created in 20+ years.

Just take your time dont work on a bike when your fusterated, you tend to forget more things. (i forgot to put the nut on a clutch basket once) Causing you more problems in the end.

rickybudz
01-29-2010, 09:54 AM
This poor dude has the worst luck! He's going to become a great machanic!

oldskool83
01-29-2010, 10:36 AM
I grease every bolt when putting a motor back together, i bet your motor has not been appart yet and stuff is super tight causing things to snap.

RodKnockRacing
01-29-2010, 10:37 AM
thats the way u learn trial and error good luck man

3Razors
01-29-2010, 12:11 PM
Did you use a small torque wrench? I tried to warn ya, 8-12nm is all the torque you need and what comes from the factory, its very little.

inv3ctiv3
01-29-2010, 12:27 PM
It was loose! It wasn't even tight! I also looked at the clutch lever, there is only one way for it to go, you can't screw it up putting it back together because I never took the push arm out or anything so it's really weird the clutch didn't work when I put it back together yesterday.....that's a big concern for me.

Dammit!
01-29-2010, 12:28 PM
Stainless steel bolt kit from ebay. Make sure you use some grease or anti-sieze though.

harryredtrike
01-29-2010, 12:35 PM
I would pull the clutch cover back off, and make sure the actuator arm is lined up correctly, and everything else is correct. With the bolts that small (8mm, right?) you always want to use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet, and the shorter the better. No need for a long ratchet or excessive force for such small bolts, especially on the motor. Hopefully the stud comes out as easy as it did last time! Good luck.

i agree with this post.i did it myself.sorry about the new broken bolt,that stinks

3Razors
01-29-2010, 12:36 PM
When you torque the bolt to 8nm the bolt will still feel "loose" to many human hands. Its not about about being "tight" to what you can feel. The bolts will NOT break with 8nm torque. You need a 1/4 inch torque wrench, even a cheapo from harborfreight will get the job done.

darkestskydiver
01-29-2010, 12:47 PM
i had the same issue with my clutch. i thought it needed to be replaced but apon further inspection i found that the clutch pushrod was not the correct lenght. the one i had was an 1/8th inch too short. my buddy has a grinding shop so we found some round stock the correct diameter and cut it to lenght and presto it works again.

inv3ctiv3
01-29-2010, 12:54 PM
i had the same issue with my clutch. i thought it needed to be replaced but apon further inspection i found that the clutch pushrod was not the correct lenght. the one i had was an 1/8th inch too short. my buddy has a grinding shop so we found some round stock the correct diameter and cut it to lenght and presto it works again.

But mine is the right length, it's the same one that was in it before all this, none of that has changed.

MrGiggles
01-29-2010, 10:22 PM
It might just be the oil holding the clutch plates together because it's been sitting. If it's cold and my bike has been sitting sometimes the clutch will stick for a little bit.

I like to dab some oil on each gasket surface before I put the gasket and case back together. The gasket won't stick to either then, I did that on my Bayou over a year ago and recently took it apart and it didn't tear off. No leaks either.

Yamaha_Rules69
01-29-2010, 10:33 PM
I dont remember off the top of my head, but does the 350x use the ball bearring at the end of the pushrod? I had a thought that when you had it on its side, if you let it back down, the ball could have fallen out? Not sure, just an idea. Good luck again!

inv3ctiv3
01-30-2010, 01:02 AM
Wait that little ball goes where!? We found that on the ground today when we put everything back together and the manual doesn't say anything about it....damnit I gotta take it apart again!!! Where does it go?

300rman
01-30-2010, 03:27 AM
man. i hate takin stuff apart twelve times cuz u forgot one dumb thing. download a service manual, there is a link for manuals here on the site, and there free.

Twilight
01-30-2010, 03:34 AM
manual is a the friend.

ball goes under clutch cover on the rod under the push piece.

inv3ctiv3
01-30-2010, 04:03 AM
I have the manual and have read through it 10 times and not once does it mention a ball bearing or any ball underneath the push piece.....I have looked at every diagram I can find and nothing shows that little ball bearing, NOTHING. I am not an idiot and have been going by the manual and am kind of just over it to be honest. If you guys say a ball goes under that push piece then I'll take it all apart again tomorrow and put it in but I promise you the manual does not say anything about a ball bearing under the push piece.....

riverrat
01-30-2010, 04:19 AM
I think we all go through this, more often than we would like to admit.

clutchcargo
01-30-2010, 06:20 AM
Look at a parts schematic in addition to the service manual. Go on bikebandit.com, look up your bike and you'll be able to see what parts should be in there. Maybe the service manual is lacking that info.
Hope it works out for you.

inv3ctiv3
01-30-2010, 12:53 PM
Look at a parts schematic in addition to the service manual. Go on bikebandit.com, look up your bike and you'll be able to see what parts should be in there. Maybe the service manual is lacking that info.
Hope it works out for you.

I already did that, it's not in there either that's why I am so frustrated. But the clutch definitely still doesn't work no matter how much you adjust the cable so it must go in there.

harryredtrike
01-30-2010, 01:02 PM
dude you are gonna be so mad at yourself when you open her up again and see what went wrong.ive done it myself.since the gasket hasnt had heat on it you shouldnt have to get a new one,just be carefull when pulling the side cover off.

inv3ctiv3
01-30-2010, 02:05 PM
So you guys mean to tell me this little ball bearing goes beneath that pushrod....

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2714/4315941043_24b829042b_o.jpg



And in here?


http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2798/4315941125_f7f6e08423_o.jpg



I tried putting it in there but it seems to small or something, it doesn't feel that smooth when you move the clutch arm.....

3Razors
01-30-2010, 02:14 PM
Its been awhile since I did a 350X clutch, but I don't ever remember a single roller ball used on the end. Many 2 strokes use that method but not the 350X from what I recall. I have a feeling something is mismatched/missing on the lifterarm shaft or the lifter piece that mounts on the inside of the clutch cover. Another wild guess is that the new clutch cable you got could be the wrong length/part #?

harryredtrike
01-30-2010, 02:19 PM
this is what the book shows

inv3ctiv3
01-30-2010, 02:32 PM
Its been awhile since I did a 350X clutch, but I don't ever remember a single roller ball used on the end. Many 2 strokes use that method but not the 350X from what I recall. I have a feeling something is mismatched/missing on the lifterarm shaft or the lifter piece that mounts on the inside of the clutch cover. Another wild guess is that the new clutch cable you got could be the wrong length/part #?

It's possible something else is missing but I don't know what it could be.

And I thought about the clutch cable being wrong so I threw the old one on last night which used to work fine and it doesn't work either.....Something has to be wrong I just can't figure out what.

And yea Harry I have looked at that diagram over and over to see what could be missing or if that ball bearing is there.

3Razors
01-30-2010, 02:35 PM
Everything looks right in the pic to me minus the ball. On the 350X there is an adjustment on the cable itself. Did you try and open it up to take out the slack?

harryredtrike
01-30-2010, 02:37 PM
is there a wear mark on the bottom of that pusher?between the case and the pusher.

inv3ctiv3
01-30-2010, 02:38 PM
I didn't open up the cable completely but I did adjust both of the adjusters all the way in and all the way out and they still didn't work....

harryredtrike
01-30-2010, 02:48 PM
hey does it go on the number 12 part?whats that dot on the top of it.

3Razors
01-30-2010, 02:55 PM
Did you take the clutch itself apart when you pulled the cover off?

inv3ctiv3
01-30-2010, 03:20 PM
I just took my clutch cover to my honda mechanic and he said it definitely does not use a ball bearing anywhere and I just need to start it and let it loosen up and it should work.

MudBug
01-30-2010, 04:38 PM
isnt dirtcrasher the 350X guru? I would ask him, but more than once something like that has happened to me and its just a dumb little mistake

inv3ctiv3
01-30-2010, 07:37 PM
I got it all back together and everything works as it should EXCEPT it smokes like a freight train now....no idea what happened....new thread to come with video...

devilman
01-30-2010, 08:03 PM
smoke is probably from it being leaned on its side?

zppeacock
01-30-2010, 08:45 PM
smoke is probably from it being leaned on its side?

That is probley correct, let it run for a bit it should clear up.

inv3ctiv3
01-30-2010, 10:09 PM
Yea I realized that later, oil probably got up in the cylinder or something and just has to burn out, a lot may have gotten up there because I checked the oil and it was low and I just put 2 brand new quarts of honda oil in it so it may take a while to clear out.....Thanks for all the patience and help everyone, I was really frustrated with this and realized it was all mostly my fault which is one reason I was so pissed about it.

And thanks again Devilman you rule! Got the fenders yesterday and can't thank you enough!