Honda 200s broken exhaust stud

[motoman011]

I have a neighbor kid who purchased 2 200s, and we planned on taking him riding Sunday, one bike is a parts bike (complete, the other is in fair shape but he was trying to switch the better parts to the one he rides. Either way, I told him NOT to touch the exhaust header bolts, but he didn't listen and snapped a stud, I reinstalled the complete exhaust, basically in the dark and it leaks not from the mainfold. From what i can see there is very little threads left showing, I've had this happen years ago, but I paid to have it fixed. Does anyone have a good way to remove, fix or seal the exhaust so he can ride it. He's basically on his own, he has no father, mother's never home and basically is at my house daily, which is great, but I'm not sure there's anyone around here any longer who would fix this, so I guess it's up to me. I'd like to see him have some fun on it, my older son and I have replaced the tank for him, sent the seat out to be recovered and bought a set of tires for him but I'd really like to stop putting money into it and would like to see him enjoy it. ANY help would be great.

[DeePa]

it happened to me and i bought head off of ebay with good studs...cost like 12 bucks shipped. That and a gasket and you are set.

[motoman011]

He's got a doner motor, do you mean cylinder or just the head? I'd like to take it apart as little as possible.

[ailll1]

happened the same to me
torqued it too much
I just welded another bolt to the threads left(you can also weld a washer to the bolt and after weld another bolt to the washer) to remove the broken one and then put another 10mm bolt back in

[Rajunrick]

or you could center punch the broken stud and use a left hand drill bit (not joking if you've never heard of one) and the corresponding ease out.

[anderson8687]

If there is enough threads to grab with vice grips, i have seen people heat it up pretty hot, then (no joke...bear with me....)push a crayon onto it, cramming it into the threads. The wax from the crayon will travel down between the threads and lubricate it. Mechanics use this often on brake calipers when bleeders are stuck. Not promising anything.... but might be worth a shot.

[n10sivern]

if there is enough for it to grip, they make stud removal sockets. or,if there are enough threads, attempt to screw the stud out with vise grips, if that doesn't work, take a dremel with a cutoff wheel, cut it off close to the head, use a center punch to the middle of the stud and use a left hand drill bit. start with about a 1/8" bit and drill a pilot hole then gradually increase the size of the bit. if it still doesn't break free by the time you get to a size near the size of the hole, then just drill and tap it for a helicoil. i had to do the same thing to an atc90 head except the stud broke off at the head. i just drilled it out, tapped it and put a helicoil in it. works fine.

[JustEnough]

I would stuff a small rag in the exhaust port hole as soon as possible to prevent moist air or metal chips from getting in the combustion chamber.


Once that is taken care of, if there is a little bit of stud showing and there is room to get at it, you could cut a screwdriver slot in what is left of the stud. I use a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel for that. I have heard that heat from a torch is good for rusty bolts. A propane torch is probably best, to avoid melting the aluminum head. The melted crayon sound like a great idea, because the heat from the torch would evaporate penetrating oil. ViseGrips makes a small needlenose version that could be used to grip the outside of the remaining exposed stud, while a screwdriver is in the slot that you made.

[mancusicrzy]

you could drill and tap