First Full Build -86 Tecate

[nstyle73]

I have put it off long enough, and have been using valuable information from this site for too long without giving back. So, I am going to post on the build of an '86 Tecate. It is my first full build, as my 250sx was my first trike 15 years ago and has just been freshened and updated, and the R and X are mostly in stock shape. I've never had a captive audience before, so bear with me. I started collecting parts with a $100 parts lot and eventually bought a roller from Basket. The first pic is from before basket broke it down and shipped it to me UPS in several big boxes. Its been over a year since it got here and I finally got the frame powercoated, so let the T3 be.

The guy that did my powdercoat lives about 3 miles away and, let's say I should have driven farther. He's not the kind of guy you want to be "your guy" for something, so that was disapointing. Also disapointing was when I got the frame and he had switched the color I picked out for it, with the color I picked out for parts for my car. I matched the decal colors from the stock Tecate to a powder color, and matched my car parts to my car. Anyway, we came to an agreement, namely a cheap one, and I can live with the color. ( I apologize for the dark pics, right now I only have time to work at night)

One other thing, this is my first post with pics, so I don't know how to imbed the pictures, because right now they just show up as an attachment.

[posty2100]

good start, ill be watchin this tread as I love these 86 T3's

[nstyle73]

The roller I purchased from Basket was a good starting point. The frame wasn't beat up too badly, just a couple welds on the subframe to clean up. The axle was straight with new bearings and seals and it came with wheel spacers. The bad included a blown shock and a leaking front fork seal. Here is a pic of the frame after powdercoating. I love the color with the metal flame, I had just intended for it to be on something else. The frame is a little dusty in a couple pics, which makes the finish look funny.

Today I dropped off the engine bottom end to get the crank rebuilt and main bearings put in. I split the cases and put new seals and bearings in the transmission before taking it down to the shop. The KX250manual is far more helpful than the Tecate manual. Also, FYI, Wiseco rod kits are on sale for $68 from Dennis Kirk right now.

Yes, I am already well started before I started posting as the suspense of year long threads kills me, so I'm aiming for a short build, hopefully done for Trikefest. If farming season goes like last spring, that may not be realistic, but I'm to the point of polishing, prepping and rough assembly. Most parts have been ordered, so its just putting bearings and seals in everything, polishing, painting, test fitting,....you know...the time consuming stuff.

[Tbcoplin]

I am in the process of restoring my 86 tecate too. I powder coated everything back to the original silver with blk shock spring. I got it all together and I would not start. Idk, it's getting gas, air and fire. Not sure what the problem is. I pulled the flywheel to make sure the wood drift key wasn't sheered. It was fine. How much do u know about the KIPS system?

[atc350xer]

looking real good... and is that a MoPar in the background? Looks like an early 70's Charger:)

[MonroeMike]

Good luck on the build.

[JohnR.]

Definitely a good start. I guess you could say I'm starting on my T3 too but before I do anything else to make it pretty I'm building the motor. Then once its dialed in and I got some use out of it I'll treat the frame to a powdercoating.

John

[scottyms]

seams as though it's tecate time.... i know of atleast 5 86/87 tecate builds going on right now... plus my 2.... no wonder parts are going so high latley....

we need to get a page of every one working on these and the parts they need and have to sell or trade.... it would save us all some bucks and frustration ...

other wise it looks like a good start....

game on!

scotty

[MIK6]

im making 86/87 tank covers. JohnR has1 on his rite now. let me know if you T3 guys are interested.

MIK6 / Mike

[nstyle73]

That's a 73 Charger in the background. One of the too many irons in the fire right now. I'm pretty much done buying parts other than some custom stuff from sblt500r and some maintenance items so I'm not contributing to the high prices anymore. Mine is mostly used and budget parts like a $20 front wheel and tire from a 350x. Some 300EX hubs, traded labor for a set of 450R rims and some blemish Fast Trekkers are in the works

[3wheelmecca]

very cool, this Tecate is going to be quite colorful with the PC job on it.

[rickybudz]

I thought that was a Charger, 15 years ago I had a 72 and gave it to my buddy for $500. It needed a lot of work, I didn't have the time. Not to mention it had a 318 that was blown, I much would of prefferd the 360. Thanks for the memories!

[nstyle73]

I am in the process of restoring my 86 tecate too. I powder coated everything back to the original silver with blk shock spring. I got it all together and I would not start. Idk, it's getting gas, air and fire. Not sure what the problem is. I pulled the flywheel to make sure the wood drift key wasn't sheered. It was fine. How much do u know about the KIPS system?

Unfortunately, I have not had a chance to learn much about the KIPS yet. I have the top end off but haven't really looked into it. However, from my understanding the KIPS is the two shafts on either side of the exhaust port that are rotated by the governor according to engine speed in order to increase exhaust port area so that you can get that top end scream, while retaining backpressure at lower engine speeds to help torque production. Don't take that to the back, but I think thats the over-arching principle. That being said, I would think it would start even if the KIPS wasn't timed correctly, or was disconnected for that matter. I'm sure there are more experienced and qualified guys on here or at kawie.riders.com that can clear up the whole KIPS issue.

[nstyle73]

I thought that was a Charger, 15 years ago I had a 72 and gave it to my buddy for $500. It needed a lot of work, I didn't have the time. Not to mention it had a 318 that was blown, I much would of prefferd the 360. Thanks for the memories!

Its a 73 Charger SE with that dreaded 318, but I have a 440 on a stand waiting for this Tecate build to get done. I spent too much time at the Mopar swap meet in Indy this weekend to get much done on the Tecate. I got the front forks taken apart, new seals put in and am putting a light polish on them. I smoothed the gouges and nicks before dissasembly and since this will be a rider, am just sanding with 220-800 grit paper and buffing with steel wool. I'll post some pics when I get them close to polished.

Tip: To get the forks apart you can buy the Kawasaki tool or use a bolt with a 1" (or 26mm) head and two nuts either welded or jam-tightened together. My 26mm socket would not fit past the bevel of the inner tube, so I had to dress the nut in order to make the 1" socket fit the nut and slight inside the fork tube.

[scottyms]

an easier way to dis-assemble the fork tubes.... drain the oil but leave them together. gently heat the bottom of the tube with a torch or heat gun... make sure the hex driver fits good in bolt.... use an impact... 2 or 3 cracks and the bolt will come right out...

i had one i couldn't get appart years ago so i took it to the dealer to ask if i could borow the kawasaki tool. the guy ther said "you can have the dam thing i havent used it in years" he told me to do the above... hasn't failed me yet and its a hell of a lot easier than trying to hold everything and turn the bolt....

scotty

[nstyle73]

Scotty is right, an impact wrench is definitely the way to go, especially on the clutch nut, etc. Mine recently bit the dust, so I made a clutch holder out of aluminum and the convoluted fork tool too.

[nstyle73]

I couldn't resist doing some preliminary assembly even though I don't have everything painted and cleaned up yet.
I polished the triples last summer and they've been in a box since then. The AVone OSX bars were adopted from
Ebay and came with the Applied oversize bar mounts and the rubber vibration cones for a dirtbike. I've
heard about the vibration of the T3, so I thought I'd try to dampen some of that with the bars, and the rubber mounts
were just a bonus. Supposedly, these bars are anti-vibe, but we'll see. I had to drill out the stock tecate triple mounts to accomodate the larger mounting bolts. I also had to special order longer bolts as the mounts came with short fine thread metric bolts. I threw on a lock washer and some threadlocker for good measure.

[nstyle73]

Side Note: Check out 250rmanfmf's post on his KXF450 Tecate. That's what a Tecate build should be. I'm just not up to that level yet.

No camera this weekend, but I've been painting the headlight bracket after some welding to get it back in shape, the shock pivot and some axle spacers. And the rest of the time was spent on the 250r. I did take some pictures of the chopped up swingarm I'm going to try to use. It's +3, which was going to be a bit short when I initally planned a KX500 project, but should be adequate for a warmed up 250. Its UGLY, and the local fab shop turned their nose up at it. I contacted a couple other places close to me and they basically said they didn't have time. I'm considering painting it to look like a Westcoast (White and Blue Decals) so that it I can do the welding, just have to find someone with a TIG or heliarc. They cut the skidplate/chainguard mounts off too when the extended it. I don't do the best work, but I try not to butcher things beyond repair.

[nstyle73]

Couple more pics. I put the new bearings and seals in the front hub and axle carrier. A picture of the headlight bracket and shock pivot as well. I know gold is kind of tacky. Its supposed to be copper to match the nitride bars, the picture is a little overexposed. If it doesn't look good on the bike, I'll repaint them black or silver or something. I cut down the resolution so the pics would load faster too, so they may not be as clear.

Does anyone know of someone making fork caps for the Tecate like HR makes for the 250R and 350x?

[T3 LOPES]

that swinger is pretty bad . you could have one built by HRE ATV for around 450. he does great work. Nice work so far! keep it up.

[JohnR.]

I think Ronnie is making fork caps.

[nstyle73]

Pictures coming this weekend.......HRE's contact info?

[Tecate 50]

HRE-ATV.com

[nstyle73]

I promised some pictures, if not really any progress. I got the bottom end back and put together, and dropped the piston and top end together, but am waiting on head studs. I painted the motor and swingarm. I painted the shock spring too, although I already had sblt500r rebuild the shock, so the paint job isn't of OEM quality as you can't get the spring off, but I loosened it up and got a good coat. It will go by the wayside if I get an extended swinger because I have a different shock for that. Anyway, for the time being, I'm using the stock swingarm. I'm getting busy, and I can't hang the project up for 2 or 3 months waiting to get one made or to get the one I have in shape. I slapped everything together to give me some motivation. No one breathe, there are only 3 bolts and an oil jug holding it together..........


May the Lord bless you this Easter.

[tri-Z ripper]

Excellent work so far! I also believe in stocking up on your parts before starting and not having to wait for each piece! Nice dodge! and a great build im subscribed now!

[nstyle73]

The Sprock Racing cool head tops off the piston and sleeve. The ports are just a good all around port job, not really a top end or bottom end. The bore is shown in one of the pics :-) I also included a couple of the 'roller' pics I meant to include previously. The total width of 51 1/2" might be a problem, as it won't go in my step side pick-up. The hub spacers add 1 1/2" and the 300EX hubs add another 1 1/2" over the stock hubs and the Durablue axle is a couple inches wider than the stock T3.

I currently have the T4 brake hub and sprocket hub on the axle. That creates two issues, the brake caliper mount would have to be fabbed because the T4 rotor is a larger diameter, and the T4 sprocket hub is 1/2" wider but not offset like the T3. I can fab the caliper mount easily, but I will either have to do something similar to sblt500r and relocate the snap ring groove and use the T3 sprocket hub, use a spacer with the T3 hub, or make a custom adapter to offset the sprocket the 1/2" and use the T4. The quickest would be the snap ring relocation, but I haven't decided yet.

Oh, and thanks to everyone for their help and encouragement.

[3wheelmecca]

That thing looks pretty slick, should fly with the KIPS system. I wish I had that on my 84.

[sblt500r]

[QUOTE=nstyle73;858345]I currently have the T4 brake hub and sprocket hub on the axle. That creates two issues, the brake caliper mount would have to be fabbed because the T4 rotor is a larger diameter, and the T4 sprocket hub is 1/2" wider but not offset like the T3. I can fab the caliper mount easily, but I will either have to do something similar to sblt500r and relocate the snap ring groove and use the T3 sprocket hub, use a spacer with the T3 hub, or make a custom adapter to offset the sprocket the 1/2" and use the T4. The quickest would be the snap ring relocation, but I haven't decided yet.
QUOTE]

just find a 86 t3 rear disc and hub. that will be the easiest way to go! wait is that a t4 axle also? the sprocket hub looks like a t4.

oh and the rear spring will come off. loosen the retaining rings all the way, then pull back on the spring and you can get the lower retainer off, than the spring will slide right off.

[nstyle73]

Its a T4 Axle. I might be missing something, I loosened the retainers up as far as I could until they hit the shock line.

[sblt500r]

you might want to get the t3 disc and sprocket hubs. might be easier for you. they fit the t4 axle fine. but eitther way your gonna have to cut the splines or move the caliper out. also if you didn't know, the axle will be off to one side a hair. i made spacers for the hubs that were off to center the wheels.

you have to have the shock in a vise when you pull on the spring. when its loosened, slide the bumper up a bit, then pull back on the spring and the lower retainer will come off. might be easier with 2 people. but it will come off. i don't use a spring compressor.

[nstyle73]

"I see" said the blind man, I don't know where my head was. I popped the spring right off, so it will get another coat and baked. I have a powdercoated blue spring, but I like the contrast of the green. I think the blue fork boots may have to go in favor of green as well.

You are correct, the axle is offset a little. I have not had a chance to look into this yet. I have the T3 parts, just looking at all of the options. I think I can get a wave rotor off of a CBR929 that I have to match the T4 rotor hub, so I was keeping it in the mix for now.

[nstyle73]

Its raining, so I've had a break from farming and my head studs came in so hopefully I'll get the head on with the pump gas dome for now as I'm STILL waiting on the 50/50 dome to come. I have the engine in the frame and hopefully will get some pics this weekend. The shock in on so its officially a roller.

[nstyle73]

Finally some pictures. There is still a ton of work to do. I polished the rear master cylinder cover, and covered the hose with some stainless sleeving. The levers are refurbished from Ebay and the brush guards are Powermadd. The fender brace is a stock piece that I had powdercoated, but I plan to order an aluminum one from sblt500r. Those are the main body advancements so far.

As far as the engine, I got the head studs put in and torqued the head down. I didn't have a reed cage, so I sprung for a new VForce3 setup with an intake from jeswinehart. The intake looks great even though it was a "blem" I'm still waiting on radiator hoses, and an oil plug to finish up the engine. I would hope the big bore kit, the cool head, reeds and a pipe would make this thing move. For a pipe I'm going to use a kx500 pipe hopefully. I already had it as it came with the 500 engine I started this project with, and the exhaust port sizes are the same. It will have to have some slight modifications and the silencer will need relocated a bit, but the overall shape and the mounting point below the tank are both pretty close. It looks like the stinger will need bent and some other slight mods will be in order. The 86 500 pipe isn't a lot bigger than the tecate pipe, the expansion chamber is a bit larger, so I'm hoping with the 330 kit, it won't hurt me too much. I'm sure some members will weigh in on the possible side effects.

[nstyle73]

I confess, I fitted some of the plastic. Its hard not too when you want to see what it looks like. I still have to get the brakes together, the pipe fitted and the rear axle sorted but here are some pics of the rear fenders and tank and stuff. I'm planning on using Dzus fasteners on the rear fenders but the seat pan hold downs either have to be left unattached or moved to allow the fenders to be taken off easily. I've seen baskets 250r type holddown on his but didn't want to go that route. The tank cover still needs fitted better, but things are coming together.

[nstyle73]

I finally started on the brake calipers. I broke them down and painted and baked the calipers and mounting brackets. Nothing fancy, but I wanted to update the thread and who doesn't like pictures.

[nstyle73]

I finally got the rear axle together. I ended up using the T4 sprocket hub, the T3 brake rotor hub and the original washer that goes between the lock nuts on the T3 axle inside of the Durablue Posi-Loc nut. I didn't have to cut spline or snap ring grooves, or anything :-). (Even though I did recut the sprocket snap ring groove for no reason due to poor alignment during a trial fit.) So, everything bolted up using the stock parts. I thought the sprocket alignment was going to be an issue, but after looking again, the T4 bolts the sprocket on the inside of the hub, and the T3 bolts it on the outside, so the difference is actually minimal, and a washer or small shim should take care of the difference.
That's a relief finally.

I also recovered the seat with a Ceet cover which is actually very nice in my opinion. I added some extra material under the corners, so the cover has some small places you can see, but I wanted to help keep the seat pan from rubbing a hole through the cover. I also got the Dzus fasteners installed in the fender support, and the fenders pull off with two quick quarter turns.

The final bit of polishing/painting leaves the motor mounts, then just assembly is left.

[nd4speed]

So the T4 axle could be made to fit with not much hassle. Figures no one makes them now.

That's some really nice work you've done!

[nstyle73]

Yeah, there is a slight offset to one side like sblt500r mentioned but you can cut the axle spacers to compensate, and there was no need to re-cut the splines, I was playing around with combinations and had the T3 sprocket hub on there, which creates other issues as well.

[JohnR.]

Pics of the dzus fasteners would be great!

[nstyle73]

There are a couple pictures of the DZUS fasteners in a few posts back, but here is one more with the retaining cables that I took but didn't post. The fenders come off really easily, but its not quite as important as on a Honda where you can't get to the air cleaner as easily as on the T3. I think it makes it look a little trick and bit more of a racer.

[JohnR.]

That's pretty trick. I'd just be worried that the cables could get caught up in something and tear up your plastics/fender support.

John

[nstyle73]

I got the exhaust tweaked and it looks like its a go. The pipe is an 86 kx500 Pro Circuit and the silencer is an 85 kx500 FMF. The head flange is the same diameter as the stock pipe, and I tweaked the angle to fit in the head better. I also massaged next to the left frame downtube, similar to the stock pipe recess and the stinger had to be rebent. The silencer inlet was modified and I but about 6" off of the stinger. I'm making the hangers similar to the stock mounts, but the silencer will have to have a couple mounts fabbed up. It clears the fenders and you can see the rear master cylinder, but I'm going to add some heat tile to protect the fenders.

[nd4speed]

I bought a new 1986 KX250 pipe and put it on mine without much hassle.

What's the displacement of the bore kit?

[dirtbiken]

nd4speed that would make it sounds pretty good wouldnt it?

[nstyle73]

Its supposed to be a 330 Kit. My math says 295, you must need a stroker crank to get the 330. I really thought about buying a DG pipe, but this pipe came with a motor I bought and is in pretty good shape except for a ding in the stinger and a couple places where the plating is knicked up. The size is pretty comparable to the stock pipe with a larger expansion chamber and a slightly larger diameter stinger. It probably wasn't the best choice as far as fitment, but it looks like it will probably work.

[T3 LOPES]

are you planning on making it to TF with this bad boy?

[nstyle73]

That's the plan, to make TF, but the weather has been ridiculously wet here, and I'm a farmer, so it looks like planting is going to stretch into June, making TF tough, but tentatively I'm there.

[RIDE-RED 250r]

beautiful build you have going there!:beer

[nstyle73]

Thanks Ride-Red. That's a pretty nice R you have there.

[nstyle73]

I haven't accomplished much lately, but I did fab some pipe and silencer mounts up out of aluminum. They need cleaned up some, but the pics are the trial fit. I'm waiting on a brake rotor before I get the front brakes put together and I need some odds and ends like banjo bolts and some more DZUS fasteners, just haven't had time to get them.I know that TF - 1 (month) and counting.

[T3 LOPES]

any updates on your build? looking very nice!

[nstyle73]

Sorry, no progress in the last week. I've been working crazy hours. I did order the last dzus fasteners to fit the airbox lid and a carb kit for the 38mm carb, but that about it.

[nstyle73]

What little time I have had to work on the Tecate has been spent working on things that I thought were already done. I wanted to check the compression, just as a reference, and discovered that the engine wouldn't turn over. I thought perhaps I didn't get the kickstarter in correctly, but was pretty sure I tried it after I put the side cover back on. After pulling the clutch, etc, it turned out that I had put the wrong screw in the stator assembly, and the flywheel was binding on the head. Easy fix, but precious time lost. Obviously, I didn't make it to Trikefest, which is probably best as it would not have been broken-in even. I have finished up the brakes, with some nice SS rotors from CGR, and the stock SS brake lines. I also finished up the airbox Dzus conversion, but I forgot to get pics of that. I currently need a chain which is on its way, a carb fitting for the throttle cable, and radiator hoses, which are also on their way. A ton of other little things, but those are the parts needed to get this thing fired up. Hopefully I'll get this thing moving in the next month and probably will never be "finished" with it.

[dcreel]

Looking good, where did you get the rotors? I wonder if they would fit an 84-85 Tecate? I talked to a guy from Germany on Ebay who sells the rotors, is that who you bought them from?

[nstyle73]

That's the guy, he's a member on here, I think he sells footpegs and I bought a coolant bottle cover from him last year. All very nice. I'm not sure about the fitment on the 84/85, I think the front hub is made signifcantly different as I know the rotor on those has an offset center. I'll check my 85 hub and see.

[nstyle73]

Here is a pic of the coolant bottle and cover as well as a couple of the airbox modification. I just drilled out the stock rivets, then drilled a new set of holes offset for the Dzus rivet-on fasteners. I kept the original rivet fasteners and the airbox lid. I also need to get some vent filters to plug the holes. The Dzus will be nice for getting to the filter as opposed to taking four bolts out.

[nstyle73]

Well, the chain is on, with the sprockets. I could only find a 39T rear for the kxf T4, so I'm running a 15T front to compensate for the 18" tires. I have a 13 and a 14 also, or I'm sure I could get a custom rear made, as I also have a 34T rear, but its aluminum. I'm quite a ways from worrying about getting the gearing correct. I also put the silicone hoses from the group order on and they look pretty good I think, if a bit light colored. Next up is wiring and carb and airbox mounting.

[nstyle73]

I finally got the wiring harness in place and found out that the cdi isn't any good. I bled the rear brakes, but found out the front master cylinder needs rebuilt. When I went to check for spark, I realized that the tranny was in gear and that I could not find the shifter. A comedy of errors. Basically, I'm down to a chain adjuster, master cylinder rebuilt kit, shifter and a cdi that are needed. Lots of small details will be added, like a toolbox, a trip computer that extended swingarm in the initial plans and some odds and ends. A full ride report and hopefully some video will be coming after I round up the final pieces. Here are some assembled pictures though.

[nstyle73]

I slapped the cdi on and got spark, put the shifter on and got it in neutral, and got it fired up.....for about 2 seconds. For one thing, it kicks like a big bore, much harder than my 350X and for another the hose fitting in the top of the Sprock cool head leaks, so I pulled the head to put some sealing compound on the thread. Perhaps this weekend I'll give it another shot. On the shifter note, I had read about a guy using a KX250 shifter and getting along fine, and another had issues. Count me with the guy having issues. It fits obviously, but the shifter is too short for my feet and fits the frame a little too snugly. I think I'm going to have to cut and weld my nice IMS shifter, but at least its steel and I can do it myself. I checked the honda shifters and they are made completely different.

[pantera1975]

I notice you have power madd hand guards on your Tecate. Which model are them? I've been looking around at them to see how they mount. They look cool on sleds and atv's and trikes. I got pro taper atv mid bend bars and I want to put them on. Power madd lists Honda red too. If you could post or PM some part #'s for me Thanks. The tecate is pretty sweet looking. Some day after the R's are all fixed up I would like to have one.

[nstyle73]

I put the PowerMadds' on because it seemed like I was always smashing my fingers on trees on my 250sx and 350x. I think I just ordered the general hand guards, the hand wrap and the mounting kit. I think there are two types of mounts, I'll check to see what I ordered. They fit pretty well with plenty of room for the levers, but I'm running ASV levers that are much smaller than the stock ones. I will also say that the 1 1/8 bars taper down to 7/8, so the inner mount does fit a little funny because they aren't made for the taper, but they tighten up enough to not be an issue.

THE BEAST LIVES!!!!! I finally gave up on my 38mm Keihin that was on my 250R, and just slapped a 39mm Mikuni from a KX500 on there and it started first kick. I don't even know what jets are in it. It needs some pilot work I would say as it doesn't idle, but at 10PM, you don't care, you just want to ride it. The first ride was about what I expected, lots of little issues. The stator doesn't make enough juice to get the HID headlight fired up, so back to the Halogen. Then it wouldn't shift out of first, which caused a slight panic in my stomach, but turned out the 15T sprocket causes shifter clearance issues. So I repositioned the shifter and it slides into gear like it should. I need a clamp on air filter for jetting purposes so that I don't have to screw with the air box all the time, but it sounds mean and seems pretty spry....in first gear at least.

[dksix]

It's beautiful. I've spent allot of Sundays aboard a KX250 and I am biased toward Kawi green.

[pantera1975]

I'm thinking you used the Tri mount kit with the star series guards and the wrap kit? From what I can tell from your pictures.

[nstyle73]

I believe you are correct. There is quite a bit of adjustment built in so you can position the mount where it works best. I have a set of Maiers on my DRZ and the mount is heavier but doesn't offer the adjustment range.

[pantera1975]

Thanks, They will look great on my R as on your Tecate. Someday I would like to do one as a project but not til I have my motor built for my 86 and have both of the frames powder coated then I'll start looking for a 86-87 T-3

[nstyle73]

If it weren't for the great guys on here, the project wouldn't have turned out as nicely, or have been as fun. The custom parts and stuff from guys make it interesting and unique. There are tons of parts for the R, which makes it a nice bike to build and ride and there are so many cool parts to choose from, you can make a bike yours by selecting the parts you like, and each one is different. My R was great to ride, smooth, started easily, reliable and looked good, but the T3 just drew me to it and it was a lot more work to find parts, find parts that would swap in for the hard to find parts, and find parts that would swap in to make it a little more wicked, ie axles, swingarms, etc. and that's where this site excels.

[nstyle73]

Its been several months and I had things like farming and getting ready for another little one taking up my time, so I dropped the bike off at my local shop to have them dial in the jetting. I had put a 36mm carb on there, but it was hard to get to idle. I picked it up today and it still kicks like a SOB, but it starts and idles great. There may be some gearing changes in store, plus a dead-man tether and lots of odds and ends, but full Ride Report and hopefully some video coming.

[scooterroo]

looks damn good nstyle.

[hondawasaki]

Hey if your still having shifter issues try a T4 shifter. They are still available, and are the correct length. The only real difference is its a fixed pedal instead of a folding one. I have one on all my tecates, they look great!

Looking great BTW!!

[nstyle73]

That's exactly what I ended up doing. The T4 works great.

[nstyle73]

I got it out last night to take some video and I no longer have a kickstarter...LOL...ugh. The part that the detent ball fits in snapped in two places as the kicker went flying. I managed to find the snap ring and washer, but the snap ring groove gave on one side. Looks like a bit longer before it will make its debut.

[nstyle73]

I had a buddy pull me to bump start it and once we got it fired the first time, it fired up by pulling it right away. It rips, with what little traction it could get with the 1/4" of ice we have on the ground. Typically, we rode it for about half an hour, and several bolts loosened up, so I need a tube of lock tite. It seems to have a lot more bottom end than my 250R, but still may be a little short on the gear ratio. Forgot to take video once we got it going.

[nstyle73]

On advice from here, I checked the static timing to hopefully help with the starting issues. My ignorance has been revealed, so I might as well ask for help. I believe this bike has a Ricky stator set up, and only has one mark on the stator plate. It is currently installed straight up on the timing mark on the case. It does kick back a little and kicks hard, so I agree with the advice that it probably needs retarded. Any recommendations on retarding it besides just turning it back a little at a time? The flywheel on the left is from this bike, and the one on the right is stock I believe. I can't check dynamic timing until I get a kickstarter.

[nstyle73]

114378I did a cold compression check and found 210 psi, so I contacted ATC Eric about getting a larger dome. They sent a 28cc originally to run with pump gas, but it looks like it is going to take a bigger one. I think that would explain the timing issue. Had I run some race gas, I think the timing may have been ok with the 210psi? On a cosmetic note, my Zebra replica seat turned out pretty well. Its just stuck on my Monster fender set as I swapped the fenders to ride in the snow until I hear back about a Sprock dome.

[JohnR.]

You should be OK at 210psi with a 50/50 mix of VP C12 and super pump. You could probably even get away with 100 octane AvGas if need be. The timing won't make a big difference in the feel of the kicker but if you're convinced the timing is playing a part in how hard it is to kick just kick it with the ignition switched off and you will take the spark timing out of the equation. 210psi on a 330kit will make you need to put a little umph into your kick. That ProCircuit pipe you've got on there has me wondering if I could make a KX250 one work on my 250cc T3. I'd like to be rid of the DG pipe but don't want to buck up for a full on custom pipe. In any case nice build.

John

[nstyle73]

I'm not really convinced about anything unfortunately. I was just trying to see if adjusting the timing would help with the broken kickstarters, based on some suggestions here. Kicking it with the ignition off seemed to keep it from kicking back as badly, so I dialed it back a bit. It has some noticable pinging in the midrange to top the two times I have ridden it since I got it back from the shop. They thought it might be piston slap from the big bore, but not so much in my opinion. It does kick hard, and I'd rather have something to run pump gas in and not break anymore kickstarters. So I did the compression check and think I'll probably try to get back in the stock range, then adjust my timing and see where this pipe leaves me. I have a DG to compare it with, so I'll definitely put something up here when I get that far. The JEMCO definitely looks nice, but you can buy the Pro Circuits used for pretty reasonable, two figures anyway.

[JohnR.]

I know the kicker's on them (particularly the stub shaft) were problematic at best. Fortunately I got a new one from Kawie before they went out of production. If its kicking back that frequently then I would say you probably have too much advance. However, if its kicking back with the ignition off then maybe you're having pre-ignition and that would of course be related to the compression vs. available octane. What are you planning to do to repair the kicker? I know its just a matter of time before my "new" one lets go and would like to get some ideas on it.

[nd4speed]

You should be OK at 210psi with a 50/50 mix of VP C12 and super pump. You could probably even get away with 100 octane AvGas if need be. The timing won't make a big difference in the feel of the kicker but if you're convinced the timing is playing a part in how hard it is to kick just kick it with the ignition switched off and you will take the spark timing out of the equation. 210psi on a 330kit will make you need to put a little umph into your kick. That ProCircuit pipe you've got on there has me wondering if I could make a KX250 one work on my 250cc T3. I'd like to be rid of the DG pipe but don't want to buck up for a full on custom pipe. In any case nice build.

John

I put an 86 KX250 pipe on my T3. The stinger bents the wrong way but a universal FMF silencer kit and maybe some chopping would fix that,

[nstyle73]

I'm not sure what I'm going to do about the two broken kickers. I bought a new one from Kawasaki and a used one for my other bike that I broke using it on this bike. I think they could be fixed, but not by someone with my limited skill set. Thanks for the advice on the timing and compression. I really feel like the compression is my main problem after I did the test, and was just playing with the timing to see if it would help. Hopefully Sprock will come through.

[nstyle73]

Long story short, this was in a parts lot box that I forgot about. The parts lot was all "Tecate" parts, which means it had 4 T3 parts and a bunch of junk......... and this. I think it could work with some massaging and some custom mounts,

[lazybiker79]

Great job man. The Tecate looks sick :D

[nstyle73]

As has been my experience with Sprock and ATC-Eric, I have not heard anything back about anything, so I sought the help of a professional that does good work and thought he could help me out. Marvin at Kustom Kraft reworked a stock had to 76mm and sent it back. I bolted it on and got 225psi with a Cometic head gasket. I sent both the Sprock head and the stock head back to him with some more measurements to see if he can get it down to around 180 or so.

[JohnR.]

From some what I hear, you're not the only one who can't seem to get Sprock to return any calls. I was close to buying a big bore kit from Eric last year for my T3 but decided that one big motored machine was enough and went with a top to bottom fresh 250 instead. I may be asking you for some info on Marvin to rechamber my head if I need it done. The piston is very close to contacting the dome with a stock head and would lightly touch the one I had with .030" cut off of it. Hoping to get a preliminary compression number before I finish building it.

John

[nstyle73]

I asked him to open it up to 76mm, told him the piston Sprock uses and asked to have it set up for pump gas. The first shot wasn't quite right, so I called him back and explained about the cool head and he said he would rework the stock head to make it right, and thought the cool head dome shouldn't be an issue if I wanted to have it reworked as well. The price was about going price compared to Eric Gorr and others I contacted, and he had no issue reworking the stock one when I called him back so I'm pretty pleased thus far.

[JohnR.]

Cool. I started the trike tonight and it isn't that bad to kick. Gonna do a compression test tomorrow before I load it up for IceFest to see if I can run pump gas or not.

[nstyle73]

Finally an update. Marvin opened up the stock head and the Sprock Head. The both pulled about 175psi when I got them back. I plugged the stock head on and it fired on the second kick without the radiator hoses or anything. So I put the Sprock head on, compression tested it and it fired on the third kick. I got it all back together and got to ride it for about an hour on Sunday. Lots of details and little issues to button up. Better pics to come

Riding impressions: I had ridden it before, but it was kind of hard to tell because of all of the pinging, broken kickstarters and hard starting. It isn't broken in yet, so no high RPM stuff. It pulls hard on the bottom. Its a lot like a four-stroke down low. You can lug it a little in second and crack the throttle and it immediately pulls the front end up, way up, no 2-stroke lag. It feels like I could go taller on the gearing even though it works out to just about stock with the short tires. The midrange is strong but it doesn't feel powerbandish if that makes sense. Its like it has so much bottom that it feels almost like a valley before the powerband. Whether some carb tuning, a different pipe or some other things will change that characteristic will remain to be seen. Lots of odds and ends to look into before I complain about the engine. Slight wheel vibration on the right side that I have not sourced yet. The big bore Tecate feels like a trail bike almost compared to my stock one with the 38mm carb.

[nd4speed]

Looks great! I am really diggin that seat cover and everything else.

Are you lookin to get rid of the 14 tooth sprocket you have?

[nstyle73]

Thanks, I'm going to hold onto the 14 for a little while until I get the gearing nailed down. I may try a 14/35 which is just slightly taller than stock with the 18in tires. My other bike runs that ratio, but I haven't found a 35 KXF rear sprocket yet.

[nstyle73]

No pics yet, but I did ride it for about 2 hours yesterday in tight trails.

Ups:
Its a bit wide for the woods in a lot of my trails, but the backend comes around quickly with the throttle so it does dodge trees well. The power is fantastic. I stalled it twice, once in a creek, and once on a log. Fired right back up both times. No fouled plugs all day. It climbs hills great, even starting at the bottom and taking off from a stop. No clutch abuse, which really surprised me. It was a lot more like my 350x in the woods than my 250R, but second gear is about all I could handle. I also discovered that it could get away from me pretty easily if I don't pay attention.

Downs
Seems like it may have a bit of detonation in the midrange. This is puzzling me, but I think its due to compression. This head tested higher than the stock head did when I put it on, but it starts fairly easily, but noticable tougher than my other T3. I'm going to try some race gas. I checked the timing again and its spot on the stock marks. 18" tires left me belly-hung on logs twice. The fast trekkers did fine in the sloppy mud to my surprise. It will never be as clean as it was.

[nstyle73]

After a couple rides, its never as clean as it started out. I have added a Mrs. Mosh bar pad is the only visual change. The reproduction coolant bottle turned amber as jeswinehart said it probably would, but its still functional. Lots of details remain, but nothing to change it visually, so I think its done as far as this thread goes.