Suggestions? what's a quick easy fix? [Archive]

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chris200x

03-09-2010, 08:03 AM

rickybudz

03-09-2010, 08:29 AM

Can't you just retap it like it sits?

atc500x

03-09-2010, 09:18 AM

Remove cover,install an helicoil,fast and permanent repair

4cylinders

03-09-2010, 10:55 AM

hey, quickest is a longer bolt. measure the hole to see if you can use a longer bolt.

Xhumeka

03-09-2010, 10:56 AM

I like the helicoil idea, but not sure if he'll be able to do that with the engine sitting in the frame... to be able to drill the hole will likely require removal of the engine...

fabiodriven

03-09-2010, 11:04 AM

hey, quickest is a longer bolt. measure the hole to see if you can use a longer bolt.

That is a good idea, just be careful the bolt isn't too long.

atc500x

03-09-2010, 01:36 PM

Habitually you can do thread to install an helicoil without drilling the hole.A m6x1.00 stripped hole is 6mm of diameter.To install a M6x1.00 helicoil you need to drill it to 6mm......so no drilling required.

Xhumeka

03-09-2010, 05:00 PM

the great gazoo

03-09-2010, 06:54 PM

Aw christ, Chris. That motor's not that hard to pull & you've got nothing but time, right? Do it the right way, not the easy/lazy way. Should take an hour - hour and a 1/2 tops.

chris200x

03-09-2010, 07:35 PM

thanks for the ideas guys. I'll figure something out. maybe just jam a longer, thicker standard bolt in there like some hillbillies do. Haha!! kidding of coarse. :D

do most of you guys use a gasket sealer on there as well as the rubber Oring? guess it wouldnt hurt...

JohnR.

03-09-2010, 07:39 PM

Oh, its one of the little cover's that is leaking. I just use the O-ring, no sealer. If you have a good hardware store near you then you can get a metric stud, thread it in until it bottoms out and put a nut on. FYI, that whole top piece comes off the top of the head without having to remove the engine. IIRC the part that comes out just holds the rocker shafts, rocker arms, and maybe the compression release cable. None of those things will fall out if you pull that "rocker box" off.

John

inv3ctiv3

03-09-2010, 07:59 PM

This is why I hate buying used trikes....lazy people that just don't care to do things the right way....Why not take the extra 30 minutes (maybe an hour) and just pull the motor and do it correctly? Don't you want your trike to be reliable?

JohnR.

03-09-2010, 08:14 PM

Why would you pull the motor to repair a bolt hole that is in a part that is basically a valve cover? It'd be like pulling the motor out of your car to repair a stripped hole in your intake manifold.

jensenracing77

03-09-2010, 08:49 PM

Why would you pull the motor to repair a bolt hole that is in a part that is basically a valve cover? It'd be like pulling the motor out of your car to repair a stripped hole in your intake manifold.
i could pull the motor mounts and tip the engine a little and put it back in faster than pulling the cam cover and not have to reseal the cam cover. i would put the heli coil in it and it is done for good. DON"T use any sealer. if the O ring will not seal then get a new one.

JohnR.

03-09-2010, 08:55 PM

To each his own.

Mosh

03-09-2010, 08:57 PM

I am with Jensen here.
Loosen that engine, rock it to where you can get at it and Heli Coil it. Be done with it and know it is fixed right.
All this jamming a standard bolt/longer bolt stuff, is trail side repairs that will only hold up for a day.In the end, you will still have to pony up the time and money to do it right.
Do the job once...Dont let the job do you!

Here is a thread I posted that has all the info for you.
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php?93524-Fix-those-stripped-Threads!!!-A-how-to-on-Heli-Coil-installation..

Dirtcrasher

03-09-2010, 09:10 PM

The nice thing about stripped aluminum is normally you can just run the helicoil tap through there, no drilling required......

If you can't put a tap handle on it, I use a 1/4" wrench or whatever to turn the tap. BUT, you have to have good eyes and make sure you don't "tip" as you turn the tap.

The other thing is that threads don't get any stronger when there longer. 1.5 times the diameter is the strongest it can get, in your case a 6MM thread only needs 9MM in length to be it's strongest; Any longer is a waste.

So, you may find very shallow threads in there. A standard helicoil tap is tapered and not great with "bottomed" or "blind" threads/holes. In other words, unless you can drive the helicoil tap far enough in to get to the meat of the tap, the helicoil won't go in properly. I buy 2 tapered ones (about 15$ each) and make one a bottoming tap. A bottoming tap cuts all the way down to it's very start. The downside is that a bottoming tap doesn't "start" cutting threads, it just finishes the job.........

Helicoils are cheap, a buck or so and a pack of 10 is the cheapest. The taps run 10-20$ and can be bought as a standard cut tap, or bottoming tap. I find I need both in 4,6 and 8MM threads. I haven't had a "blind" hole in 10,12 or 14MM yet but at least I know how to deal with it.

I hope that made sense........

The kits are nice but 50$ a kit can get expensive. I have a zillion drills anyhow..... And I either make my own installation tool, or I just wind them in with a small flat blade screwdriver.

I use no gasket sealer on anything. 3 bond on the rocker box (thats what it calls for) but otherwise the only times it's needed are when some metal is missing from either of the two mating surfaces. It's actually "high spots" that create leaks and they get there when guys take them apart with screwdrivers/claw hammers/crow bars etc etc :lol: A fine hone stone works really well with some WD40 on it to remove the high spots. You can watch them disappear.......

Yes it's more work and takes time, but it makes you a better mechanic :beer

tri again

03-22-2010, 07:51 AM

I managed to strip out one of the valve cover bolt holes on my 350x motor. Now it leaks oil down onto the header and smokes like a pig.

what options do I have, I really do not want to have to pull the whole motor if possible. Any suggestions?

thanks!

This is Not necessarily for your engine or anything worth saving except maybe a lawnmower that needs to live for 'just one more season'
, but
locktite used to make some goop you put in a stripped hole, followed by a new bolt with some release agent on it.
Screw in the bolt, let the goop harden, and unscrew the bolt.

Haven't seen it in 20 years so maybe they dont even make it anymore.