View Full Version : gas tank rust removal
dajeepman
03-24-2010, 11:42 PM
I use muratic acid to clean out my gas tank... one gallon acid and filled the rest up with water... worked like a charm.. i flushed it out and filled it to the top with gas... If i keep gas in it will it keep it from rusting? I don't have the money for Por 15 right now.
This tank went from real dirty rusty to new shiny and all clean.
Frankencelery
03-25-2010, 12:00 AM
I've heard of Por15. Is it a better alternative to Kreem? I Kreem'ed my KLT110 tank, and it's been holding now for 2 years, with no sign of problems.
Thorpe
03-25-2010, 12:10 AM
POR15 is a much better product than Kreem. I pulled the Kreem coat out of my BR tank to put a por15 kit in...
tri again
03-25-2010, 04:57 AM
since propane is heavier than air, what if we topped off or plain old filled our tanks with propane (or carbon dioxide) for long term storage?
drop in a chunk of dry ice to displace the oxygen?
I prob have 15 different tanks I need to keep happy here on the farm and cant always keep them all full
Mondexbrute
03-25-2010, 09:57 AM
So what is is POR 15 that you guys speak of? What does it do? Where do I buy it? How much does it cost? I have a little surface rust on the inside of my Big Red tank, will the POR15 get rid of that? Thanks
Grizzlypeg
03-25-2010, 10:06 AM
I think I'd drain a tank for really long term storage, and spray the inside with a light coat of oil to keep it from rusting. An aerosol like G96 gun protectant does a really good job of sealing bare metal against moisture and rust.
tulsamike3434
03-25-2010, 10:09 AM
Will Kreem plug pin holes?
Thorpe
03-25-2010, 11:05 AM
Kreem Sucks. Por-15 will plug pinholes...
rdlsz24
03-25-2010, 11:49 AM
POR-15 kit plugged pin holes in my 200x tank, and no more rust to worry about. No leaks since last summer.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/rdlsz24/ATC200x/Por15.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v603/rdlsz24/ATC200x/?action=view¤t=Por15.jpg)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/rdlsz24/ATC200x/SealedTank.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v603/rdlsz24/ATC200x/?action=view¤t=SealedTank.jpg)
Rob
mopar_man
03-25-2010, 02:17 PM
So what is is POR 15 that you guys speak of? What does it do? Where do I buy it? How much does it cost? I have a little surface rust on the inside of my Big Red tank, will the POR15 get rid of that? Thanks
You can buy it off eBay directly from POR-15: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/POR-15-CYCLE-FUEL-TANK-REPAIR-KIT-GENUINE-POR15_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem35a3ef54aaQQitemZ 230383637674QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAc cessories or from their website: http://www.por15.com/CYCLE-TANK-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/CTRK/.
atc350xer
03-25-2010, 02:38 PM
I use muratic acid to clean out my gas tank... one gallon acid and filled the rest up with water... worked like a charm.. i flushed it out and filled it to the top with gas... If i keep gas in it will it keep it from rusting? I don't have the money for Por 15 right now.
This tank went from real dirty rusty to new shiny and all clean.
When you flushed it, did you use baking soda and water? You gotta kill the acid with something alkaline.
Mondexbrute
03-25-2010, 04:22 PM
I just ordered the kit off of ebay!
dajeepman
03-25-2010, 09:11 PM
When you flushed it, did you use baking soda and water? You gotta kill the acid with something alkaline.
I Flushed it out with 20 gallons of water then rinsed it out with 3 gallons of gas... then Filled it up the final time with gas up to the brim.
so no didn't have any baking soda... I wish I did when i was doing the work.
dajeepman
03-25-2010, 09:15 PM
When i get the money im gonna have a friend of mine do the Por 15 on my gas tank... I would do it but just dont have the time and the money right now... Im still waiting on my big red to get back from the shop gonna see how much its gonna set me back and ill go from there..
atc350xer
03-25-2010, 11:53 PM
Seems reasonbly priced, and it doesn't take long according to the directions... Ima use it on my 90.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360225614396&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT
Frankencelery
03-25-2010, 11:56 PM
I checked out that ebay link....the Por15 is a little more expensive than Kreem, but it has the advantage of Not Sucking, so it must be better. :lol:
I've only used Kreem once (did I already say that?), but it worked fine. Maybe I'll try the Por15 next time.
350xRules
03-26-2010, 02:14 AM
So far the best product I have found to coat the inside of the tanks is a product called Red Kote (that is how they spell Kote) Its about $34 a can on ebay and it will coat about 2-4 tanks depending on the size. I have coated several 3 wheeler, odyssey and generator tanks and have had great results. The fastest rust removal process I have found is to poor out any old fuel. Then remove and plug off the pet cok ( for this a thick plastic bag applied over the spout heald on by a hoseclamp works well) Then flush any heavy rust and debres out with water. Then pour the water out and fill the lower half of the tank with muriatic acid, the fill the rest of the tank up to the brim with water, set the cap on loosley. This will help prevent some evaporation of the acid/water mix and help clean the inside of the tank cap. The muriatic acid is somewhat dangerouse, its 31% hydrochloric acid which I believe is as potent as hydrochloric acid gets. It will burn your skin, eyes and lungs if you dont handle it right and use the proper protecive gear. Weaker acids like Phosphoric acid, or even white viniger will work, they just take longer, but are much safer. It also seems temperature dependant, the warmer it is the faster it will work. After the acid has removed the rust, you pour it out and flush the inside of the tank several times with water. Fill it all the way up, dump it out, fill it up again, dump it out ect. ect. several times, like 5-6. Then dry as much of the water from inside the tank as possible. You can use compressed air, or at this point, since all the gas and acid fumes have been removed from the inside of the tank from the multiple water flushings, you can even use a heat gun set to low so as not to burn the paint on the tank. After the inside of the tank is reasonably dry, you flush with Acetone, most of the tank coating chemicals are acetone based, this step will help to remove any left over moisture and help prep the metal to take the new coating. You dont have to use much acetone, the tank should be fairly dry inside anyway, it just helps to remove the little bits of moisture from the corners of the tank where the air has a hard time reaching. Next use compressed air (not a heat gun as the acetone fumes will blow up you and your newly cleaned tank) to dry some of the acetone. The tank is now ready to take the coating. Next poor a fair ammount of coating into the tank. Its alittle trial and error here as too much will take a long time to dry and not enough will mean the you have too thin a coating, or areas that are not coated at all. A rule of thumb though, it always seems to take alittle more the you think it should. Anyway, after pooring some into the tank, rotate the tank in every which way, its a good idea to have the cap on as this will help coat the inside of the cap. After getting a good even coat on all inside surfaces of the tank take the cap off and place the tank in a position so that the coating will collect at one end in the inside of the tank. Let is sit for 3-5min or so and you should have a small pool of the coating in the bottom of the tank. Now rotate it around again, coating all surfaces again and let the tank sit for another 3-5min or so in a different position, from here on out you basically repeat this process until the coating is dry. Again its all temperature dependant. I have has best results doing this in summer months when its hot out. You tend to get a good thick coating with no runs, sags or dripps. Looks very nice and if done right actually looks factory.
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