View Full Version : KXT250 Motor ?s
3wheelmecca
03-29-2010, 09:24 PM
I just got my motor today, and it has had the top end disassembled:mad:. I was wondering if there is a way to bring back the plating to its original condition. the plating is all intact, but there is some light scale on it. I tried using a red Scotch-Brite and it worked OK, I only put modest pressure on it and cleaned it up. Is there a better way than this? I was thinking of using Iron Wool or 1000 grit, but wanted a good opinion beforehand. Any suggestions on what to run for fuel to recodition the cylinder a bit?
Also, how many rings should be on the piston? I am guessing 2 , but I've never torn into a KXT motor, only other makes and sizes. It had one on it.
The motor is a bit dirty on the inside, should I split the cases or leave it? It has been stored and has a little bit of buildup on it.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
jeswinehart
03-29-2010, 09:32 PM
I am no expert by any means. Only into these kawi motors for a couple of years but IMO you will NOT hurt the nikasal plating doing any thing by hand to it unless you stroke it in one spot FORE ever, like it owes you money.
2 rings, yes.
Sea foam might be a better then tearing apart what might be a good motor.
a compression test/ leak down test should tell the tale of the condition.
john
Racerguy381
03-29-2010, 09:35 PM
Pics would help, but you can hone nickasil without damaging it. Just make sure its a ball hone not a 3 stone... Take it in to your local dealer and they should do it for free or maybe a small fee. Make sure you check the plating really well for any spots where it could be flaking off. Especially around the exhaust port and the top of the cylinder. If there is alot of dirt an grime inside your crankcase I would recommend spliting the cases and istall new bearings and seals. If you think you can flush it out the bottom end with fuel or solvant and the bearings still feel good with no freeplay you may be ok. Still the right way is to split them and make just install new bearings.
3wheelmecca
03-29-2010, 09:40 PM
oh, ok. Yeah, there is no real bad spot, just the botton ring of the cylinder about 1 inch wide. Most came off easy. I was planning on using something like Seafoam. I have heard ATF makes a great cleanup agent. I run it in my cars to burn off the crap inside when running and Havent had any problems. I was thinking about premixing that with my 20:1 fuel when i fire it up. What about clutch/trans? I was thinking of flushing it out with a light (strength, not weight) solvent and air drying it, its worked on my KTM 500 and CR480. Is that a safe move or not? I just want to clean up any accumulated crap inside from sitting for years.
3wheelmecca
03-29-2010, 09:45 PM
Racerguy, the thing is I am broke. I would rebuild, but finances are reeeaallll tight. I have checked for axial movement on the mains and rod bearing and they have about .001 play when clean and free. The nikasil coating is 100% solid, but just a bit corroded. I just went out and tried some more and its nice and clean, shiny too :). I think I am going to re-oil the clutches, any good oils that soak in well? I have tried regular 30 wt. and it seems to just float, any suggestions???
Racerguy381
03-29-2010, 09:56 PM
Soak them in acetone overnight to release any old oil that has soaked in. Then what run is Spectro 85wt transmission gear oil. This is alittle trick that works really well on new clutch disks and may work for you as well. Take what ever transmission oil you chose and this will sound crazy but it works beleive me! Pour that oil into a pot and turn your stove top on med heat. Throw those disks into that hot oil for about 10min and turn off the stove top. Let them sit in that hot oil for about another 20-30min then install them. This will not harm the oil cause there is no friction build up to wear it down. So once you have the disks installed you can poor that oil into your gearcase. The reason for doing this is to heat up the disks to impregnate them with oil rather than tring to make it soak in. I have never had a clutch fail since starting to do this process.
3wheelmecca
03-29-2010, 10:41 PM
Will do tomorrow, thanks so much, I will finally use my hot plate for something other than sleeving cylinders, damn good idea though.
1 more cheap tip for me to know, thanks, I owe ya one!
scooterroo
03-29-2010, 10:56 PM
which year t3 you rebuilding? post up some pics of it when you get the chance. always nice to see another green machine come back to life!!
3wheelmecca
03-29-2010, 11:02 PM
I am doing an 84-85, I have a thread on it, but nobody really replied or looked. I will post another soon once its more together. The rear end is out being rewelded and regreased/built. It has a full DG system and ATC250R seat cover. I got it for only 50 bucks. look about 5 pages back and it will be there.
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